Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[FAKKY]

I *think* its this ... but been rebranded since I last bought ..... but worked just as wel

http://rustdepot.com/

[dsraven]

autobody seam sealer is a quick drying sealer that accepts paint. some stuff comes in a caulking tube and some comes in a brushable style can.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

autobody seam sealer is a quick drying sealer that accepts paint. some stuff comes in a caulking tube and some comes in a brushable style can.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

Like the link above Gotchya !

But do you sand it back for painting ? How hard is it almost looks like jbweld in the final part of video. Sand it back, fill over and around it, sand and then paint etc

[dsraven]

it isn't meant to sand over top. look at any newer vehicle and you will see the seam sealer. in some spots it is best to use a caulking tube and lay down a nice bead, like the silicone around a sink or a tub. you will see it but it will be painted over and will hold the paint unless it is in an area that flexes a lot.

[FAKKY]

[dug224]

Finally had time to make appreciable headway. I managed to finish prepping the inner fenders, inside of fenders, underside of the hood and cab. Sprayed the inside of the inner fenders and the inside of the fenders with the RAPTOR bedliner. Would have done the inside of the hood but I ran out. I then sprayed the Valspar (4431-19) Low Gloss Black Enamel Implement paint with hardner (#4625). Note that the hardner makes it a bit more glossy so if you are going for a more satin finish (which I was), may want to skip the hardner. Certainly different than spraying base coat/clear coat. Also used an inexpensive HVLP gun from Harbor Freight which I may replace with a real one before any more painting. I managed a decent finish and will be able to correct some of the mistakes and touch up the parts I missed when I have it all back together and I spray the entire truck. Cab goes back on the frame next followed by the front clip. I still have some bed fabrication to do but intend to do it after I get it back under power.

[dsraven]

awesome. how does the roof look with the shiny on it?

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

awesome. how does the roof look with the shiny on it?

Lets just say I erased evidence of the apparent dance party that happened on the roof probably back in the '70's. The shine helps point out a few spots I'll improve on before I do the final paint. I'd post a picture but you can't see the detail I talking about. After looking at all the perfect paint jobs our fellow truck guys on this site produce, it's been pretty hard on me NOT spend the 100's (maybe 1,000's in my case) of hours to get this truck straight.

Man, the enamel I sprayed is still slightly tacky. Reminds me of the olden days when we would paint our Schwinns and then have to wait a day before we reassembled. Many a time we put them back together still sticky. If I understood how long it would take the paint to dry, I probably would have left out the hardner since it is apparently what added the additional gloss. Definitely a different beast than I'm used to. I heard Keystone carries a urethane single stage. I may look into that to see if I can keep the shine to a minimum.

[dug224]

Definitely a 30 footer paint job. Looks pretty good in the photos. Here is a shot from last night after I pulled out all the paper I used to mask off the RAPTOR.


Here's an attempt to show the roof which is 93% better than it was before I started.

[RockinKees]

Everything you do is a step forewards!
Cab and fenders are looking good!!

[dsraven]

yep, progress.
the roof looks pretty good in the pic, especially compared to the before shots. nice work!

[DoctorGlenn]

Maybe a bit off topic but for folks swapping a classic truck onto a TB/Enovy chassis are there more traditional wheels (16" preferably, 17" if I must) in the 6 on 5 bolt battern? Thinks like old Ansen Sprints (which I had on my '55 TF pickup in the '60s) or some of Rocket's wheels or even traditional looking stock steel wheels (without all the holes)? I'm thinking I might want to do the swap but I'm old and completely turned off by most of what I can find in the aftermarket. If nothing's available I could consider the wheels like Dug has which I assume are factory (RPO code?).

Many thanks,

- Glenn

[dug224]

Originally Posted by DoctorGlenn

Maybe a bit off topic but for folks swapping a classic truck onto a TB/Enovy chassis are there more traditional wheels (16" preferably, 17" if I must) in the 6 on 5 bolt battern? Thinks like old Ansen Sprints (which I had on my '55 TF pickup in the '60s) or some of Rocket's wheels or even traditional looking stock steel wheels (without all the holes)? I'm thinking I might want to do the swap but I'm old and completely turned off by most of what I can find in the aftermarket. If nothing's available I could consider the wheels like Dug has which I assume are factory (RPO code?).

Many thanks,

- Glenn

Glenn: I'm sure you can have steel wheels made but because of the TB track width, they won't be deep dished like the old days. One of our fellow truck guys did a body swap and used spare tire steel wheels (with all the holes) on all corners. He painted them orange and it looked fantastic. I would have done this had I seen it before I bought the factory wheels. I got mine off of eBay pretty cheap. Not sure what the RPO code is in light of the fact that it has been so long since I bought them. As you said, styles are limited. Of the styles I had to choose from, these appealed to me the most. May change in the future to steel wheels. dug

[dug224]

Cab is now on. Used the engine lift with 4 ratchet straps. The straps really help with fine adjustments to make cab level before lifting. To get the hoist all the way into the center of the cab, I had to lift the trailer a couple of inches by jacking up the axle. Since my lifting hooks are in the holes that mount the cab, I set the cab down in the proper location and then jacked up each side under the cab step and removed the hooks on each side and replaced with the mounting bolts.




Started placing all the bits and pieces back in the cab to see what I need to do first. Looks like the pedal/steering assembly will be next on the list.

[Simple10]

Coming along nicely dug👍👍

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Simple10

Coming along nicely dug👍👍

Thanks. Finally got a little momentum! If I can get all the loose ends tied down, I may try to drive it tomorrow.

[dsraven]

keep on the momentum and you'll be done. looks great. I like the headlights, haha. I know, "testers". funny about the bulbs back feeding. was it a ground problem inside the socket or possibly inside the bulb maybe?

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

keep on the momentum and you'll be done. looks great. I like the headlights, haha. I know, "testers". funny about the bulbs back feeding. was it a ground problem inside the socket or possibly inside the bulb maybe?

Definitely the bulb. Apparently, the circuits inside the cheap 1157 LED's are not separate.

[dug224]

Zip tied all the loose stuff and took it for a spin. Photo of my buddy Jim who happens to be the brains behind this electrical work. OBD reader working nicely off of the plug I installed at the new panel. The only problem we had during the ride was that the cooling fan wasn't coming on. Blown fuse. When we commissioned it, we had 10 amp fuses in everything. Turns out the fan needs a slightly larger fuse. If I can make it small enough, I'll post the video of the ride.







Set the '95 bed back on the frame while we had it out and running. I'll soon be able to get back on the fabrication that we were doing 2 years ago to make it fit.

[dsraven]

I had the same idea for the jack and wheel wrench under the rear of the box. gonna use some rubber on the floor of the box to keep rattles to a minimum. not sure if I will put the spare under the box or not. I have the cutout rear fender so probably use that. will you have clearance under your's with the tire installed?

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I had the same idea for the jack and wheel wrench under the rear of the box. gonna use some rubber on the floor of the box to keep rattles to a minimum. not sure if I will put the spare under the box or not. I have the cutout rear fender so probably use that. will you have clearance under your's with the tire installed?

Plenty of space if I design it correctly.

[dug224]

Windshield washer now in place. Used a remote fill unit with cap and routed it up under the front right front near my horns. Drilled a hole in the tank top and ran the hose thru it.



In keeping with my minimalist approach, I got my budget Eling all in one gauge setup under way. Need a temp sending unit with a 290 to 24 ohm range and I'll be set. I cut out a new mounting plate that I will paint matte black. Waiting for my LED turn signals and bright light indicator lights to wrap up installation.



Bed closure panel complete except for seam sealer. For now, I decided to seam seal the bed floor rib ends rather than cut, hammer and weld them down.

[mongocanfly]

wow!!!...that's a lot of fab work you had going on..looks really good

[dug224]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

wow!!!...that's a lot of fab work you had going on..looks really good

Thanks Greg! Wife is out of town for 2 weeks so a lot is happening!

[dug224]

Getting a lot of the small stuff completed. Ended up using the tachometer signal from the PCM (white wire, green plug, pin #10). After exhausting what we thought were all of the easy solutions, Jim researched what others had done. Ended up simply adding 12V power and a 10,000 ohm resistor to the circuit and then scaled the gauge until we matched the OBD reader. Good thing I pulled a handful of spare wires from the engine compartment to my panel. All we lack now is the water temperature sending unit to be 100% complete on the gauges. If this gauge were a bit larger, it would be perfect.


Still not sure I'm 100% happy with the stance so I gathered up about 500 lbs of weights and blasting glass and dropped the rear 2" (rear wheel opening went form 24.5" to 22.5"). Somewhere between 24.5" and 22.5" is the correct answer. My license plate dragged when I entered my driveway. So, for about $50 I can buy some factory air bags that were used for load leveling. I can replace my springs and add a small compressor and a switch and I can then select whatever I want. Future refinement project.