Brand New Old '69!

[1LoC10]

also im pretty sure that vin number is for a Chevy, not a GMC

[Solego]

I'm having them put a power brake conversion kit on it. I know how to do it myself, but I also have a 120 mile drive home and would rather have power brakes for the ride home. Even then, I just had knee surgery and am on crutches for another three weeks.

[71MUTT]

My 71 has front disc brakes, but no power. You do have to push pretty hard on the pedal. It does look to have the bigger master brake cylinder. I would say disc. I wouldn't worry about the power. Make sure the idol stays at 5000 rpm. I have 250,000 mi on mine with no problem stopping.
Nice truck and welcome from Altamonte Springs

[Longhorn Man]

Originally Posted by mvfd70

Model type is either Fleetside or Stepside, Model year would be the year of the truck. In your case it is a 1970. I'm thinking that the VIN you gave is not entirely accurate. Here is the link to the VIN decoder that I use. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/Chevyear.html

I think (and I don't really know without seeing it first hand) that the VIN on that truck should read CE240Z111594. I'm no expert on that though. I'm just going off of the decoder...

That decoder is Chevy only. There is no doubt, this is a GMC.
I can't find my old 69 owners manual, but I'm pretty sure that is a 69 VIN. It isn't a 70, see the attachment for how a 70 and 71 VIN would read. (of course, there are variations to them within years too)

[special-K]

We do know the truck was once a C/20 or just the cab/VIN-plate are and that`s how it`s titled,a 3/4t.

[Solego]

No...it's a Volvo.

[Longhorn Man]

LOL!
As long as the truck is put together safe, and you are happy with the end result, that's all that matters. It is a cool lookin rig, and in all reality, the bed makesme think of an old altered wheel base drag car from the 60's!

[jeffspower]

I had a GMCPAR once. It was a GMC, with a MOPAR 8-3/4" rear end. In a 4x4, With 6 lug axles. I figured this out later on (I was a punk yet). People kept asking what kind of rear end it was, so I started investigating. First giveaway was I found a pentastar on the pumpkin. OH NO! I couldn't deal with no MOPAR junk in my GMC, so I tore it out. Then I got curious as to how it had 6 lug axles. Mopar never had 6 lugs. Some crazy fool had cut the axle tubes and welded the GM stubs on so they could use the GM backing plates. Here's where STUPID really kicks in- they cut the axle shafts at the flange, and welded the GM flanges on!

[Longhorn Man]

That would be what you'd want to avoid!

[RicksTrucks]

Originally Posted by Solego

I'm having them put a power brake conversion kit on it. I know how to do it myself, but I also have a 120 mile drive home and would rather have power brakes for the ride home. Even then, I just had knee surgery and am on crutches for another three weeks.

Not sure what they are selling you, but the main piece is just the booster that sits behind the master cylinder. My 69 Chevy came with A/C and power steering, but not power brakes. So I picked up a booster to add, then I will have power brakes.

[Solego]

Originally Posted by RicksTrucks

Not sure what they are selling you, but the main piece is just the booster that sits behind the master cylinder. My 69 Chevy came with A/C and power steering, but not power brakes. So I picked up a booster to add, then I will have power brakes.

You also need new lines, I believe a new proportioning valve, and a new bracket. Adding a booster will not make it power.

[1LoC10]

yeah, you need more than just a booster to convert to power brakes

[Ackattack]

Some observations I see

The reason why the brakes probably don't work well is probably not due to not being power assist, but that the drum/drum master cylinder was retained and not enough fluid is flowing to the front brakes now (discs take more fluid).

Next, the bumper. It should have little "cut outs" so that the turn signals which are part of the grill are easier to see.

Just for your information, I don't think any of us are telling you its bad or anything like that, but just informing you so you know what you're getting yourself into and what you have. Looks like a nice truck though!

[Longhorn Man]

actually, the master cylinder, lines, prop valve.. all of it stays the same onthese trucks when you add a booster.
To upgrade to power brakes, all you need is the booster, the hose, a new push rod on the pedal, and a nupple to hook up the vac line to. That's it. And, that IS the correct master cylinder for a disk/drum set up.

[Jtrux]

You said they were going to get the ac working again? I don't see any bracketry or anything else so that's gonna cost something. I doubt they would just do all that out of the kindness of their heart.

[68c-10]

The reason why the brakes probably don't work well is probably not due to not being power assist, but that the drum/drum master cylinder was retained and not enough fluid is flowing to the front brakes now (discs take more fluid).

No in that picture you can see the front res is bigger than the rear and the prop valve is clearly for disk brakes.
Get the truck on a lift and look it over really good, long and hard. I hate the feeling of getting a used car home and then finding something not disclosed at the time of sale. My girlfriends last jeep looked great on the lot but latter when I put a radiator in it the rust free jeep was discoved to have been wreaked and the car fax never even showed that!

[OLDIRON69]

This whole deal just dosen't smell right...reminds me of the 77 Trans-Am I bought with a "new motor," motor blew a week later under normal driving. I brought the car back to the dealer. Crook said "it's new to the car" I could have went to jail that day, I talked them into putting another engine in it and I agreed not to call my attorney or involve my Dad in the deal. (at the time my Dad, being a Ex-Marine and Korean war veteran would have literally brought the engine bacjk up to the dealer and inserted it into his arse). He wanted neither.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 68c-10

No in that picture you can see the front res is bigger than the rear and the prop valve is clearly for disk brakes.
Get the truck on a lift and look it over really good, long and hard. I hate the feeling of getting a used car home and then finding something not disclosed at the time of sale. My girlfriends last jeep looked great on the lot but latter when I put a radiator in it the rust free jeep was discoved to have been wreaked and the car fax never even showed that!

I didn't look at the picture for that, I just know that if you use the wrong MC, you won't have good braking ability.

[Ron 586]

If you learn anything from this post it's this, don't ask if you don't really want to know. Looks like a well built mutt to me, but they make the best dogs anyway. (trucks also)

[68c-10]

Ackattack, I was not trying to cut down your advice at all I just did not want the guy that is buying this truck to think it had the wrong master when it actually does have the right one. I am sorry if my post came accross like that.

My 68 has manual disks swaped to the front and my pedal is hard as a rock. If you don't keep good pressure on the pedal the truck can creep. I used the master and combo valve for a 71 chevy truck sense that is what the brakes and spindles came from.

[Solego]

I'm having the A/C fixed when I get it back home. They're not going to fix anything unless it affects the drivability of the truck, like if it was missing the axles.