Boyd Welding-67-72 Rear Mount Aluminum Tank

[Daveboyd]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Quick question...how much gap between the top of the tank and the bed cross sill ( meaning can the side tabs be moved so that the tank sits a little higher and tucks even more up under the truck without coming into clearance issues with a bed crossmember)

I would assume that moving the mounts anymore would not leave enough clearance for fittings and sending units. this product is a model of MSGROSS's tank and drawings i did not design nor ever install one personally.

[msgross]

I can remeasure mine if you want. I think it can be move up an extra 3/4" or so closer to the bed crossmember. The crossmembers are tall enough to clear sending units so that shouldn'e be an issue.

[Daveboyd]

Originally Posted by msgross

I can remeasure mine if you want. I think it can be move up an extra 3/4" or so closer to the bed crossmember. The crossmembers are tall enough to clear sending units so that shouldn'e be an issue.

Mike i really appreciate all your help!!!

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by msgross

I can remeasure mine if you want. I think it can be move up an extra 3/4" or so closer to the bed crossmember. The crossmembers are tall enough to clear sending units so that shouldn'e be an issue.

I'd appreciate it if you could check. I might also modify that crossmember to tuck it up even higher but I at least want it up to the top of the frame rails if possible. Thanks.

[BossHogg69]

bump for a great price!! Is there a deadline for this buy? I have my truck blown apart at the moment, so now would be a good time to swap the tank to a frame mounted one.

[Dynomutt]

Dave I ran across your site a little while ago searching for custom tanks then came in only to see this post. Must be a sign.

I want to do a bumper fill also but I think the dimensions are going to need to change quite a bit for that. I'm waiting on my bumper to come in (Brothers is taking their sweet time) so I can get it bolted up and get some measurements. I think the fill neck will have to be at the bottom of the frame rail to get enough angle to fill the tank properly. I'm not real sure about that though since I don't have a way to fab it up yet.

Couple of questions though, can you bend (rolled, not square) the lower part of the tank instead of weld so there are only seams showing on the sides? (bends would be front and rear and sides welded in) The top could be welded all the way around since it won't be seen once the bed is on. Also, do you do anything to reinforce the sides where the mounting tabs are? Seems like a lot of weight on a small tab that could stress over time.

Thanks for your time and I'll send you some drawings and dimenstions as soon as I can.

MD

[Daveboyd]

Originally Posted by Dynomutt

Dave I ran across your site a little while ago searching for custom tanks then came in only to see this post. Must be a sign.



Couple of questions though, can you bend (rolled, not square) the lower part of the tank instead of weld so there are only seams showing on the sides?(bends would be front and rear and sides welded in) The top could be welded all the way around since it won't be seen once the bed is on. Also, do you do anything to reinforce the sides where the mounting tabs are? Seems like a lot of weight on a small tab that could stress over time.



MD

Yes, I can make the front and back ends rolled into about a 3" radius similar to this except on the bottom and both ends

I just finished a tank with the exact requirements yesterday so no problem. your price will reflect that option. At this time i do not do anything to the inside of the tank ends however that can be done also.

call me when your ready and we can discuss pricing and options.

[Daveboyd]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

bump for a great price!! Is there a deadline for this buy? I have my truck blown apart at the moment, so now would be a good time to swap the tank to a frame mounted one.

Well I have not set a deadline as of yet but i was thinking of getting this organized and underway around the first week of November. What do you guys think.

Reason for that is I will be closed Oct 22-26th (still available Mobile) and to give people time to get their ducks in a row

I will post a new thread only for this group buy so that there is no confusion over what your buying, whos involved and what the terms are.

[dan42]

Dave, another quick question - what sort of filler tube is gonna work so that you can flush mount it in the bed?

[msgross]

Originally Posted by dan42

Dave, another quick question - what sort of filler tube is gonna work so that you can flush mount it in the bed?

I am thinking about one of these, then connect it with a short piece of rubber hose...if you already have one then have dave install the proper size filler neck 1.5" or so..

If this tank is identical to mine then the filler neck falls in between the metal slats for a wood bed. Steel bed guys might want it moved to the center or far side. This will require a one way check valve, that's why there is a 3/8" threaded bung on the top.

they make them in different sizes as well..

[VA72C10]

I'm putting my filler in the driver's rear stake pocket with a pop up flush cap from a motorcycle. Will that 3/8 check valve down on the tank work or will I need to run the vent up to the actual fill neck?

[msgross]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

I'm putting my filler in the driver's rear stake pocket with a pop up flush cap from a motorcycle. Will that 3/8 check valve down on the tank work or will I need to run the vent up to the actual fill neck?

I would contact John Fabris on that one, he did a similar filler like yours. You are talking about a vent for filling, im talking about a vent for draining. If you put a non-vented cap (like the flush filler) then you will have to add a vented check valve so that the engine can "drink" without cause a vacuum lock. More than likely you will need both.

Air has to come out when filling at the pump and air needs to come in when running the engine.. the different locations of these keep them from spilling an liquid during normal driving. Everyone also knows what happens to gas in a non-vented plastic container, it swells and blows

[texas67chevy]

Count me in for a standard. Have a few questions though... I am gonna flush mount a ventless cap in the wood bed, am I going to need a second bung hole for two vents or is the one hole ok. Also I need the filler neck to at least be somewhat centered in a wood plank does anyone know for sure how far off it is on a fleetside?

[71cadc10]

here's what I'm laying out for a steel bed, with EFI.

I sent this to Dave to review...anybody else see something here let me know.....I basically took msgross' drawing and tweaked it a bit.

My measurements would put this about 1/4" clearance to the bottom of the bed cross sills. So you could move the side flanges down to 4" if you wanted it TIGHT against the bed. I left some room to run wires if needed.

capacity calculates to 19.6 gallons BTW.


Thanks,
Andy

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by 71cadc10

here's what I'm laying out for a steel bed, with EFI.

I sent this to Dave to review...anybody else see something here let me know.....I basically took msgross' drawing and tweaked it a bit.

My measurements would put this about 1/4" clearance to the bottom of the bed cross sills. So you could move the side flanges down to 4" if you wanted it TIGHT against the bed. I left some room to run wires if needed.

capacity calculates to 19.6 gallons BTW.


Thanks,
Andy

Looks good and the side exit is what I would need. If an inch was taken off the height that would also work for me. I don't mind losing a little capacity for ground clearance....

[silver7]

I was wondering the same thing texas67chevy. msgross, can you confirm if your design will allow some adjust of moving the tank side to side to center within a wood plank if neeeded? Thanks

[msgross]

Originally Posted by silver7

I was wondering the same thing texas67chevy. msgross, can you confirm if your design will allow some adjust of moving the tank side to side to center within a wood plank if neeeded? Thanks

My design will allow the filler to fall in the center of the plank. You can't go center of the wood bed unless you want to cut one of the metal strips holding the bed wood down. post #29 has my tank plans.. the side brackets could be adjusted for a tighter fit against the bed cross sill.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Quick question...how much gap between the top of the tank and the bed cross sill ( meaning can the side tabs be moved so that the tank sits a little higher and tucks even more up under the truck without coming into clearance issues with a bed crossmember)

I measured it and it sits 3/4" below the wood bed crossill, if you lowered your flanges 3/4" then it would be tight.

Originally Posted by Daveboyd

Mike i really appreciate all your help!!!

any royalties for the design?


Here are some more pics.
1st: you can see the wood bed mounting holes in the crossill, it's darn near perfectly in the center or you have 3/4" of travel left or right..
2nd:It could be raised 3/4" or shorten the tank for even more clearance. It has approx 3/4" on the sides as well as below the crossill, I wanted a little extra room incase I do a trap door filler with the cap that's on it.
3rd:This is a fleet short bed and it hangs about 5" below the fram rail in the rear and maybe 7-8" in the front. I made it slant downward in the front so you can drink every drop of fuel since the outlet is in the front passenger corner.

If anyone else needs pics or measurements i'll leave it mocked up for another day.

[DMARCUM123]

what gauage alum are you using for the tanks

[texas67chevy]

Thanks msgross, thats exactly what I was lookin for... Im down for a standard tank for sure.

[silver7]

For sure. msgross, thank you for your help.

[71cadc10]

Here's an update to the drawing...the side fill will just have 2 pcs welded like shown.

The material is 1/8 aluminum as listed in the first post.

Other notes: there are 0.625 radius shown on 4 of the edges of the tank, these are bent edges and won't be weld seams. Basically the tank is 2 "U" shaped pieces that are fit together and welded.
EFI version will have baffles added, and a Walbro GSS342 pump with a sock filter on it. The return will be on the passenger side somewhere and will return fuel in an area outside of the baffled pickup so fuel aeration is minimized.

I have experience with the GSS342's, they are a great pump. At 14v running pressure is approx. 60 psi, perfect for GM fuel injection setups (Gen III or IV). This pump is supporting 500 rwhp in my LS1 GTO and been in there for 27K miles daily driven. So I'm very happy with the performance and longevity.

If you have Carb setup now, and thinking EFI later (which I am) then there are pressure regulators that will work with the high inlet pressure and bump down to the 7psi or so that a carb wants. Will return a good bit of fuel but should work just fine if the return line is sized large enough. I eventually want to "grow into" and EFI setup when funds and time allow...so this will be one less hassle when I'm ready.

Cheers...
Andy

[VA72C10]

Wouldn't that side fill need to be a little lower for bedfloor clearance? Or is that assuming you are leaving the side brackets where they are and not the additional 3/4"

Dave Boyd....
If I do the side fill on mine, have the side flange 3/4 higher so the tank fits flush, and take 1" off the bottom, would that change the pricing at all?

Also, any chance of me paying today or tomorrow to get mine produced as soon as you have time? I am ready for my tank as soon as I can get it.

Mine is carb setup...not EFI...

[71cadc10]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Wouldn't that side fill need to be a little lower for bedfloor clearance? Or is that assuming you are leaving the side brackets where they are and not the additional 3/4"

...

no, if you leave the brackets where they are, there is 3 3/4 from the top of tank to bottom of a steel bed floor. So the fill neck is 3" to the top...would leave you 3/4" to work the fill hose on the neck and get a clamp in there.

If you push the top of tank up flush to the cross sills, then yes the top of the side fill would be tight to the floor. Might need to lower the side fill overall height if Dave can do it. The steel bed cross members are 3" deep from what I measured.

[Daveboyd]

I HAVE POSTED A NEW THREAD FOR THE GROUP BUY HERE

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=367055

PLEASE USE THAT FOR INQUIRIES DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE GROUP BUY.