1965 C-10 - Sleeping Beauty

[KroAutomotiveInc]

Originally Posted by quest

Does it have Fresh gasoline in it? New fuel filter?

didn't think of that a good idea along with rebuilding the fuel pump i know mine was shot i also had bad gas lines not leaking but letting air in the line making it bleed off from the carb if it sat more for then a day.

[chevy_man5]

Originally Posted by quest

Well I might check your vac advance rubber hose/connections to be sure it isn't old and cracked rubber leaking, check vac adv pot to see if it is holding vac.
You could do a rough setting of the timing by bringing the #1cyl to TDC and then check your timing marks on the harmonic balancer and make sure dist rotor is in the right position to confirm you got the firing order right on the cap & plugs. from there you can adj the dist a small amount to fine tune until you get the TL.
Make sure you don't have plug wires shorting on anything and that the wiring to the coil is good and nowhere to short out. Best way to that is to look under the hood at night time to if there is any sparks in the dark.
Does it have Fresh gasoline in it? New fuel filter?

I didn't get home early enough to mess with it last night, but the vacuum lines are on top of the list of to do's! LOL

I picked up the timing light last night, so hopefully I'll get some time to get to it soon. The plug wires are all up off of everything. I did check that already, but good call!!

It does have a full tank of fresh gas, and the only filter (currently) is the one in the carb. We cleaned it out when rebuilding the carb.

Thank you for the input Quest!

Originally Posted by RANDY COX

Congrats on your truck,was that a build sheet behind that seat I saw..Throw you an HEI Distributor in it,It will wake that ole six up..I like them ole six's easy to work on and everything easy to get to.I saw another old truck sittin in the garage.

I saw a Skip White HEI for it for $62.00 + $10.00 shipping. I do not know anything about Skip White, are they any good? Yep, that is my '60 sitting in there.

Originally Posted by KroAutomotiveInc

didn't think of that a good idea along with rebuilding the fuel pump i know mine was shot i also had bad gas lines not leaking but letting air in the line making it bleed off from the carb if it sat more for then a day.

Thanks Kro, I hadn't thought of the gas lines. Thank you for sending me that manual too!

[chevy_man5]

I forgot to tell you all that he found an original key wired to the bottom of the steering column. Works in the door lock, and the ignition! Pretty cool find!




Also, when I picked up the timing light from my boss, he said I could use this as well. I have absolutely no idea where and how to hook this thing up, and or use it. Any suggestions? Anyone have a manual sitting around that they could scan? LOL I didn't look much last night, but will see what I can find as far as a manual for it goes.

[gimmy 64]

its a dwell tach to check dwell on points--gap when runnining--- hook red to posative side of coil and black to negetive. turn to dwell on meter and it will tell you what the dwell is. i don't remember what it should be

[chevy_man5]

Originally Posted by gimmy 64

its a dwell tach to check dwell on points--gap when runnining--- hook red to posative side of coil and black to negetive. turn to dwell on meter and it will tell you what the dwell is. i don't remember what it should be

Thanks Gimmy. What is the little tab/bar piece for?

[jbgroby]

" What is the little tab/bar piece for?"

Cigar Holder

[chevy_man5]

LOL

Must be for little ones!

[Captainfab]

I don't remember for sure, but I want to say 32-34 degrees. A good service manual will tell you.

Originally Posted by gimmy 64

its a dwell tach to check dwell on points--gap when runnining--- hook red to posative side of coil and black to negetive. turn to dwell on meter and it will tell you what the dwell is. i don't remember what it should be

It looks like you can also check voltage with that unit.

[Jeff La]

So educate me. If the dwell isn't what it's supposed to be than you would adjust point gap????? Trying to learn something here LOL

[luvbowties]

Welcome to the forum. Nice find, for sure. Gotta appreciate power steering--already--plus that original, full-gauge dash.
Enjoy the future work involved, and continue making Dad happy at the same time. He won't even mind if you stay up too late as long as you're 'on that truck'!
Looking forward to your future improvements and for PICTURES as y'all progress.
Sam

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by chevy_man5

I forgot to tell you all that he found an original key wired to the bottom of the steering column. Works in the door lock, and the ignition! Pretty cool find!

Attachment 1070985


Also, when I picked up the timing light from my boss, he said I could use this as well. I have absolutely no idea where and how to hook this thing up, and or use it. Any suggestions? Anyone have a manual sitting around that they could scan? LOL I didn't look much last night, but will see what I can find as far as a manual for it goes.

Attachment 1070986

Attachment 1070987

Sears and later on Penske(same unit, diff retailer)used to sell similar units. Is a volt, ohm, ammeter, dwell meter, tachometer--all-in-one "diagnostic machine".

The small, square tab questioned is for measuring amps--it allows the majority, by far, of the being-tested amp-flow to go thru it; else you'd blow the machine in a nanosecond! Understand the machine, fully, BEFORE you EVER attempt to measure ANY amps. Let that be the LAST msmt. you attempt; you'll prolly find it's a msmt. that is seldom needed anyway.

And yes, to another poster, degrees dwell correspond (indirectly, as when you increase one it decreases the other) to inches of point gap.

Learn to use that machine's capabilities, and you'll have mastered quite a useful range of engine tuning, and also understand functions of many engine-running components. Investing in a Sears unit--only dependable place we knew to reach out to from our very rural Carolina's upbringing--was and still is probably the best $64 I ever spent in the automotive field! IIRC, I earned my investment back the 1st weekend I had it. [Everybody, myself included, accuse such claims of getting over-rated as time passes!]

Stealing from present tv-ads, one could say "stay interested, my friend".

[chevy_man5]

I have an option to pick up a rebuilt 292 from a member on here, but am trying to find everything I need to put it in this truck. I know I need the different tower for the motor mount, but is the part that actually mounts to the block the same from the 230, or do I need that too? I will probably put new rubber in between, depending on what it looks like when we pull it out.

Thanks luvbowties!

Thanks!

[Rich 5150 69]

You set points with feeler gauge, check dwell with meter dial the dwell in, if you can't point rubbing block is to far gone to achieve dwell, replace points, as capt fab said 32/34,.....note dwell effects timing, you may have to reset timing, timing does not effect dwell...
Posted via Mobile Device

[chevy_man5]

Thanks Rich 5150 69!

I ordered a Skip White HEI, that just got here, so if we get the 292 (looking like we will go that way) it'll go in that, if not, then it will go in the 230 for now.

[KroAutomotiveInc]

very nice that 292 will be screamin! i believe the mounts are the same other then there staggered instead of straight across. im still happly pleased with my truck when i mass the pedal dose pretty dam good for a motor dam near half the size of a small block v8!

[KroAutomotiveInc]

Found this pretty cool i talked to a older guy once at a car show about doing this. I believe you even block off inside so there's actually 2 separate sides but look like one on the out side. Thought you guys might be getting a extra exhaust to play with cast is a bit of a trick to weld but if you have a bbq you can actually get a solid weld to it with a bit of heating and slow cooling.




No coolant heating crap with something like this ether!

[RANDY COX]

That's what I have on my car it's split and blocked off where it's split so you have 2 piece exhuast,mine is going into a dual inlet flowmaster and dual outlet,of course this is on my 48 with 216 engine.here's a vid with it running.CLICK ON THE PIXS AND IT WILL TAKE YOU TO MY ALBUM.

[chevy_man5]

I had never even heard of doing that Kro!

That sounds great Randy!

[KroAutomotiveInc]

very nice randy did you do it your self? just wondering how well it all goes together im pretty confident welding with cast i've done it more then once i will just be using the only manifold i got lol!

[RANDY COX]

I had a gentlemen do it for me.Alot of people just add another downtube,but the correct way is to actually cut the manifold,I think it's 4 and 2,the front 4 cylinders are up front and the rear 2 cylinders are on the rear.cut a small section out and block off so that there 2 separate exhaust manifold pieces from the same one you just have to watch what angle it needs to be before welding so that linkages will clear.it gives it a distinctive sounds that's for sure...If you like I will try to get a pix of the cut....Thanks Randy...

[chevy_man5]

Randy, I would definitely like to see the cut, and any additional pictures of the setup you can provide!

[KroAutomotiveInc]

yeah i would love to see it as well i would think the cut is the danger part of jacking it up i would think blocking it off without cutting would be better if possible witch i guess it may not be.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by RANDY COX

I had a gentlemen do it for me.Alot of people just add another downtube,but the correct way is to actually cut the manifold,I think it's 4 and 2,the front 4 cylinders are up front and the rear 2 cylinders are on the rear.cut a small section out and block off so that there 2 separate exhaust manifold pieces from the same one you just have to watch what angle it needs to be before welding so that linkages will clear.it gives it a distinctive sounds that's for sure...If you like I will try to get a pix of the cut....Thanks Randy...

These were called "split manifolds" in yrs. past. One caveat: from the back, weld a plate over the inside passage to the rear THREE--exhausting NOT 2 and 4, but 3 and 3! It will not run right with merely an additional ex. pipe/opening. (And only on the "straight 8"/inline-8 cylinders did you have to run unbalanced # of cyls.; due to manifold design, you could not 'reach' inside to get 4 and 4, yet it had its distinctive sound also.)

On stock manifolds, we did not have to actually cut the manifolds in two--altho' it would make for a more 'tuned'/symmetrical system at the expense of considerably more labor. Also, if you cut them in 2, you'd need to run some type of heat source to 'burning chamber'--where the ex. manifold bolted to intake manifold. Easiest, by far, to merely block inside and weld 2nd pipe to new opening. Really makes for a sweet sound in addition to giving a power increase you can feel in the seat of your pants!

[KroAutomotiveInc]

Thanks luvbowties what i was thinking also with the amount of work and losing your exhaust heat to the intake this will be happening soon on my 230!

[RANDY COX]

here's some pixs hope it clarifies things up,here you can see the cut and blocked off..as you can see it still has heat going to intake,Iv'e not had any problems with it.