'47 Loadmaster COE (rebuild pictures)

[47 Fasttoys]

12-1-2014
Got a good start on rotating the rack. To start with I welded a position reference to the frame. In my case I used some angle iron with one end butted on a step on the rack tube and a couple of hose clamps. By doing it this way I could turn the rack but still maintain the correct position for alignment issues. Next I removed the mounting bolts, loosened the hose clamps and rotated the rack. I ran into 2 minor issues: The cap bolt on the rack would hit the frame cross member and the hose would hit the cross member. Used a hole saw to solve #1 and a hot wrench and a big hammer to solve #2. After I had enough rotation, I just started building up a new mount for the rack (3/16 plate). If you do this type of work I recommend a profile gauge. It really helps when making templates. I first make cardboard templates. I have also found that Natural Lite 12 packs make the best template materiel. Sometimes I have friends over and we work on building up template stock. From there I go from cardboard to steel and weld it all up.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

12-2-2014
Boy, you have to stay busy to keep anywhere near the top of this forum. Did a little more work on the steering, I still need to build the right side rack (ran out of steel) but I did hook up a U joint and all looks good. I also added a high tech turn signal switch. I'm trying to keep the interior simple with not a lot of bells and whistles showing.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

12-7-2014
Thanks Kim. I did a little work on the rear of the cab. I bent and welded in place a brace for across the rear, I also cut the opening above the engine a little higher for clearance. Later I test fit the the radiator and modified the PS/Alt. mounting bracket to remove the Alt. mount.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

12-9-2014
You are correct about that Mud, seems like just about everything needs addressed in one way or the other.
Made a little more progress rear of the cab: boxed in the sides and built a cover for the rear section. Now for the bad news: I think my welder is taking a dump. It tripped a few times today, the weld is fine but it just won't run for any amount of time and takes longer and longer to reset. I guess I really can't complain, I gotten 10+ years and 4 complete builds out of it.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

12-9-2014
Well I bit the the bullet and bought a new welder. It turns out I bought my Lincoln 135 MIG back in '98 so I would say I got my use out of it. I bought a Hobart Handler 190 Amp. The reviews where good and I wanted some more power so this unit should do the trick.
Photobucket started working again also here are some picks.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

12-24-2014
OK, a little more progress. I picked a pair of Ford Taurus radiator fans. These are the widest I could fit and still get inside the frame rails. I built a shroud from 16 ga. and a mount from square tubing. It looks like I will be able to reuse the stock donor hoses with a little trimming.

[47 Fasttoys]

12-30-2014
A little more progress on the cooling system. I am reusing the overflow tank from the donor. I welded a couple of pieces of 1/2" tube to the fire wall and mounted the tank there. I also ran the lines back to the engine and reused the original system as far as the tank is concerned. for the donor it uses the overflow tank as a pressurized unit with a 16# cap on it. The idea here is to be able to check the fluids under the hood with the exception on the oil and trans fluid which will be accessed behind the cab. I will build a cover for the brake linkage later. I remounted the front sheet metal and will start to work out the support for that.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

12-30-2014
Thanks AD, I also ordered a Painless wiring kit and will be mounting the electronics behind the seat. Lets see here: ECU for engine, TAC module, fuse box, relays (fans, fuel pump, horn), control circuit board for the shifter. What am I missing?
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

1-5-2015
Progress, progress, I spent the better part of this week end setting up the front sheet metal. I was able to trim the lower parts of the inner fender wells and reuse some of the grill mount. I built a cross brace which will mount to the cross brace now added to the front of the frame. Speaking of the frame, I boxed the frame horns and added some extensions for a bumper mount. After all that was complete I set the front sheet metal back on and set all the alignments. Over all good progress for a couple of days. It's starting to look like a truck again.

[47 Fasttoys]

1-6-2015
Thanks all, I checked and it looks like I spend about 15 hours a week working on the truck. So all in all, I am pleased on how much progress is being made. I'm still shooting for being on the road sometime in late March with a big road trip in April. Even though it looks close now it will still need to be blown back apart for chassis work and some underside work on the body. The body should be ready to remove again (3rd time) later this week or next week.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

1-8-2015
Thank you, yea, the deadline is coming up fast, I may need to cut back on some of the details to meet it. I started on the wiring, I am using a 14X24 piece of sheet metal and will mount the electronics behind the seat. This is my first time doing an LS style engine so I've got some things to learn. It's just a few wires so how hard could it be? Famous last words of a fool.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

1-10-2015
More progress on the wiring. The main control panel is 90% complete tomorrow I will mount it and start on adjusting the length of all the wires, solder, heat shrink, repeat 300+ times.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

That would be the TAC or Throttle Actuator Control module on the lower right. I'm using a drive by wire system.
Rob
____

[47 Fasttoys]

1-5-2015
Well, see that's the thing 99, when I ordered the Painless kit I ordered a universal trunk mount kit. All the wires which normally go from the fuse box to the dash section have about 6 feet added to them. I also bought the kit during a Christmas sale so I got the web split cover loom for free. First LS wiring...yes, first EFI system or complete wiring job...no.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

1-15-2015
I've been working on the wiring some more, the flasher relays are a bit close to the rear seat so I may need to shorten the mounting posts for the fuse box.

[47 Fasttoys]

1-16-2015
Thanks all. The kits are 764-10120, 20 circuit trunk mount kit and 764-70920 Powerbraid Chassis kit. The Powerbraid kit came free on a Christmas sale. I bought them through Jegs.
In other good news I got the truck registered and tagged today. Yes, it's a bit early but with it registered I can get some free tires from work...Michelin.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

1-18-2015
More progress, I finished the majority of the engine wiring. I still need to build a mount for the alternator and an intake pipe for the MAF sensor so those are not finished. Not anything special looking on the engine wiring but that was the intent. I checked my records and I have 66 hours in the wiring so far not counting the electric shifter project. The sad thing is I still need to do the dash and the whole chassis. I also built the exhaust this morning. I used as much of the donor as I could and only ended up with $13.00 total in the exhaust, probably the cheapest thing I'll do on the whole build. Finished the rack and pinion mount.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

1-23-2015
Well, no pictures today but I did build a mount for the alternator, received my ECU back from programming, and ordered some more parts.
Rob
1-28-2015
More progress, I'm running the 4 rib belt normally used for the AC to run the alternator. I also built and installed a idler pulley for the main belt. After getting the new belt I was able to install both belts and adjust the tensions. Installed both PS hoses after I had a new pressure hose made. Started on the fuel lines, ran another hose for the coolant and installed a air filter/air pipe for the MAF sensor. The Air filter will end up end in a tool box mounted to the frame rail. The battery will be inside another tool box on the other rail.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

2-2-2015

Dang, it looks like everyone has been making a lot of progress lately. I got pushed all the way to page 2. Well anyway, I started working on the wiring some more, I got the wires to the fire wall and traced out the needed wires for the tail lights. I'll be re-using the donor wires for the rear, also tested the tail lights I picked up while working in China ($8.00) big LED units so hopefully someone will not clip me in the rear.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

2-7-2015
More progress: trans lines are done, fuels lines are done except for supports, ignition switch switch is wired and heater has been stripped and repainted. I'm still waiting on the core to be tested and the 12V motor to arrive. Seat belts arrived. Waiting on gauges (SpeedHut). I also scored a bumper today for $25, it had a small bend in one area but with a little heat and a hammer that came out. As it turns out, the 1 1/2 ton and up standard and the COE share the same bumper. Great news for me.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

2-8-2015
Baby got some new shoes (work perk). A look at the heater parts, I've had water in the core with no level drop for 24 hours so I'll call it good. Now for the third picture: that would be the remains of a mouse house. How did I find it? It came out of my tail pipe. That's right, my COE now runs. Video will follow later.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

2-9-2015
Wheelbase is 143.5 (extended cab). Yes, I would use the same donor. Why? Drive by wire, correct track, easy steering hook up, strong aftermarket support (LS based engine) most donor parts are reusable with little of minor mods. on the down side: good donors are not cheep, 5K in my case. Only the 1/2 tons use the rack and pinion steering. Not a lot of examples to build from on the net so you need to figure out most of the mods on your own.

[47 Fasttoys]

Click the link below for video of first start. Yes I was a happy camper.
Rob

http://youtu.be/zpOcOlLyclY

[47 Fasttoys]

2-10-2015
Thanks all, it's a good feeling for sure. Of course I have some bugs to work out but that goes with any build. Farmer, I am using a '90 Silverado seat which helps give a little more space. I'm 6'2" and I fit fine. I'll shoot a picture next time I have the seat in for a reference. For total height right now I'm at 6'11 1/2" that's with a 7' garage door. Yes, it's gonna be close. I do have a smaller set of tires for the front which should give me 1/4 to 1/2" That's also with suspension at stock ride height. If I really wanted, I could drop it to the bumper using drop spindles and bags. I may go the bag route later but more for load then the slammed look.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

2-10-2015
Yea, I was kinda thinking that. I ran a scan on it and I've got no codes so that's a good thing. I'm kinda in a holding pattern on a whole lot of run time. I'm waiting on my gauges so I can install the temperature sender in the head and then I'll put some water in it and run it up to temp. Trust me, I've got plenty of other things that still need addressed before my first road test. I'm looking at later this month for that with a short road trip (say 500 miles) next month. In April it gets a real test with over 3000 miles planned so I better get it right.
Rob