Another carb help...

[Kalums]

So I finally got a chance to start repairing my faux pa's, I got a new detent cable... What a pain in the rear, no one around here had one... Mine was only 36" long(roughly), had to make one that I hope is the right length... Old one got hot enough to melt the plastic onto the spun cable making it non-movable. Replaced the throttle return spring... It un sprung(never saw that before, but it was the original) replaced the ICM wiring from the "nose" of the HEI. ( off subject but my coil ohm(ed) out properly, but for the life of me I can't figure out what the ohms should be on my ICM (original, GM stamped into the plastic, it read 19,180 ohms between "B" and the "G" posts, couldn't get a reading on any other posts. Bought a new (delco) one the ohms out at 140k between the same posts))Also replaced the original temp sensor wire... It was crispy too...solderedand heat shrank all my connections. Changed out my VA weights and springs for stock ones I found at my local yard ( the rest of the HEI was pretty toast and owner let me have them cause I bought some other parts. I'm completely rebuilding my HEI, the thermal paste was more like chalk dust. I've gotta figure out my TDC... When I pulled the cap my rotor was point almost directly at the carb, NOT towards cylinder #1. When I check with my protractor app it was roughly 20 dgrs off from where I personally would say cylinder 1 is. I did the "pull plug #1, finger over hole, wait for compression to move finger off." Then I put a Boro-scope camera in there and had my son turn the engine back and forth slightly and it appeared to be TDC but I'm not convinced. I didn't even remember to look where the marks ended up after" the wiggle". Even tho this engine has "GM GOODWRENCH 350" on The valve covers I'm not sure it isn't the original block it has the original temperature sensor with the funny little knob connection head... I haven't seen one in years. The ones I see all have spade connections. *shrugs* I got distracted and pulled my dash apart to replace all the burnt out bulbs (only 2 worked, top right speedo and passenger side blinker indicator) and figured out why my voltage gauge wasn't working. One of the connections from the main harness on the PCB had peeled off a little to the right, not broken or missing just pushed over...what should the voltage meter and or temp meter ohm out to? Finally ended up pulling out the speedo cable as my speedometer bounces pretty bad after 45 mph. Sorry for the rambling it was a busy day, thanks for all the help so far. Tomorrow I will be elbow deep once more... Man I love this stuff! As a hobby... I'd commit Hari Kari if I did it for what mechanic's have to put up with these days.
Edit: there is also a hydraulic/brake line from my proportioning valve to a brake box under my dash... Votes on if I should leave it or swap for a Prodigy P2 I already have.

[Dashman]

It sounds like you're moving along well. Good for you!

Kelsey Hayes trailer brake controller. I think it's nostalgic and it always worked well for us, but I disconnected it as I have two other trucks that I can haul with. Ours had a spring type manually variable resistor in the engine bay. Modern controllers just use the brake light circuit to add voltage with the application of the brake pedal. If you're going to be hauling some, just go with a modern controller.

The distributor gear partially engages before the oil pump rod. You have to engage the oil pump rod with a long screw driver and turn it, so that the engagement happens at the same time. As it slips into the gear and rod, the rotor should rotate clockwise and point to #1. Assuming you are at TDC on the compression stroke on the #1 cylinder.

Good luck!