Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

All new tie rods from Moog. 2 coats of silver primer and 1 top coat

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Heres the transfer case. I used Chevy Orange (VHT Engine enamel) and the silver is the master series.

[DeadheadNM]

IIRC the alternator was bare metal. The t-case came in Chrysler Red

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Go some work done today. Doesn't seem like much because its a lot of tedious work.

1. Clean up my starter and painted . I used aluminum and flat black.
2. Clean up the AC/Heater plastic box, tubes, and painted the little bracket that's riveted on front, as well as some of the clamps.

For the ac tubes, I used steel wool and it made them look practically brand new. For the plastic box I cleaned it with simple green and a soft wire brush to remove all the dirt.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Heres the clamps that hold some of the hose to the bracket. Painted them flat black.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Pete - I was debating between Chrysler Red and Chevy Orange, too. I went with the orange because I assumed that's how it came from the factory, in addition to when I pulled it out of my truck it had what looked like orange paint on it. I do like the way the red looks on there so I'll probably stripping the t-case later and painting red. I dont think it should take that look to strip off the paint I just put on there.

[DeadheadNM]

Either way it would look really good. Odd that Chevy would do these in red rather than orange but maybe shipped that way and because NP205s used for other non-GM 4wds?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I'm ordering new motor mounts. The new motor is from an 87-95 gen II block, with casting numbers 880 or 638..

Can I use the original motor mounts or would i need different ones?

[sockalaminski]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

.

Can I use the original motor mounts or would i need different ones?

You can go with the original style mounts. Don't try to save money here, buy either Good rubber mounts or poly, but not the cheap imports, They fail in short order.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I was planning on getting new poly ones. I just wanted to make sure the original style will work for my block since it's a Gen II

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

My plan was to use all the original bolts, screws, nuts, washers, etc.. I went to a local plating shop that can do Zinc Black, Zinc Clear, and Zinc Chromate (yellow).. He quoted me $600 for all of them.. I was kind of sticker shocked but I do have quite a few. I was going to eat the cost because I know these guys do great work, however, he told me it will take 5 weeks. I'm kicking myself for not bringing these down to him sooner. I cant wait 5 weeks bc I'm starting to reassemble.

I'm not sure what to do.

Here's some options I'm considering;
1. GMC Pauls offers a complete bed less bolt kit.. just like the originals. But this only gives me the bumper bolts, bumper to bracket, battery tray, font and inner fenders, radiator support kit, hood hinge, hood latch, headlight bezel, cowl hardware.

I still have all my AC brackets, pwr str brackets, brake booster, power steer gear box bolts, cross members, brake/fuel line brackets/bolts, exhaust hangers, clips, and bolts/nuts. Starter bolts... the list goes on and on, but I think you get the point..

My goal is to have nice cleaning looking hardware that's resistant to corrosion and rust.

I'd be interested in hearing what others have done. I'd also consider shipping all this somewhere else that can do the zinc coating in a much quicker turn around time. Any suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks,
Mike

[Tom Vogel]

For that much money I would just buy new grade 8 hardware.

[DeadheadNM]

That's A LOT of $$ for phosphate coating, which in my experience is charged at $85-100 per "batch" and a batch can do a lot of small parts. I can send you the details for the local shop here in MT - would be hard for them to quote without seeing what all you need but maybe a pic would give them a rough idea. Buying new parkerized bolts/screw is pricey (at $0.40 - 0.90 per) and non-parkerized ones IMO look out of place.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I think the reason they charge so much is because they wire clean each bolt by hand instead of using a tumblr.. This was the only place I could find in the area that does Zinc coating.

PM me the details of the local shop you used

[briank]

Does eastwood sell a diy it to parkerize, they seem to have everything else

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by briank

Does eastwood sell a diy it to parkerize, they seem to have everything else

yup

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Small update with some pics.

I spent this weekend cleaning, sanding, and painting more parts.

1. AC/Heater box
2. Horns
3. Power Steering Pump
4. Vacum Actuator
5. AC Hose Assembly, Dryer, Expansion Valve

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

The back of the AC/Heater box was rusty so I used sand paper and a wire wheel to scrape off the rust and old paint.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I had no idea this piece was chrome. I'm not sure what it's called but it connects to the AC Hose Assembly and the U shape tube to the box.

I took Mothers Chrome and Aluminum polish to it. I went picked up one of those foam balls that you connect to a drill to polish them up. I never thought those things actually worked.

[sockalaminski]

Yes, that is the correct tool.
The threaded piece is the upper ball joint tapered hole. You will probably need to remove the old one. It takes a spanner socket available at your local napa for about $20. After you install the ball joints and remount the knuckle in the inner C, you will need to torque that to 50 lbs before you put the upper ball joint nut on.

You're doing a great job on refurbishing those parts. Wish I had that kind of energy right now.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks, sockalaminski

So ran into a bit of a problem with the ball joint press kit I rented from Oreilly's. The adapter is just a hair short from fitting over the stud (see pic)

I measured the width and what I need is 1 3/4" ID adapter to fit. I can't find any places that could sell me an individual adapter.

My other option is I can take the knuckles down to a local shop that would press in all 4 ball joints for $120. I'd rather save the money and do these myself.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by sockalaminski

Yes, that is the correct tool.
The threaded piece is the upper ball joint tapered hole. You will probably need to remove the old one. It takes a spanner socket available at your local napa for about $20. After you install the ball joints and remount the knuckle in the inner C, you will need to torque that to 50 lbs before you put the upper ball joint nut on.

You're doing a great job on refurbishing those parts. Wish I had that kind of energy right now.

I hope did this right. Can you tell if I seated this properly?

[Tom Vogel]

Your detail /cleaning work is really impressive. Good job.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Your detail /cleaning work is really impressive. Good job.

Thanks, Tom

I just wish I can translate these cleaning skills into the mechanical side of things ..lol

[sockalaminski]

Looks like it is seated. Mine fit tight on my ball joint too. They make those kits as generic as possible to fit many different sizes.