OCHRE 72 K20 Restoration

[DeadheadNM]

That’s a baffle from a 2wd to direct air low over the manifolds. Not present on 4wds. Nice clean canvas. Note how the speedo and e-brake cables are buddied up forward then rearward the brake cable is affixed to the frame by the long-ish fastener to the frame.

[davischevy]

Subscribed.

[AZ Chev]

Progress is underway, we'v pulled the drivetrain out of the vehicle and began inspecting the frame, axles, components, etc. As I mentioned in a previous post, I found the front cross member rivets loose near the steering gear box. This will need repair. I have considered trying my hand at rivets, but may save that for the next build. For now, we're removing the old rivets and installing grade 8 bolts.

Unfortunately someone has cut a large hole in the engine cross member with a torch. I was able to locate one from another member for replacement. Everything looks really good on the frame, no rust, and no cracks anywhere. Even the front spring perches are perfect.

Initial sand blasting is done on the body, and the body is now at the metal fab shop. Current list of repairs planned after blasting are core support patch panel under battery, a small window sill patch at the bottom of the rear window, bed floor, Front bed panel, pass side cab corner, a small corner patch on each door, and inner/outer rockers. The doors had no visible rust, but you could see swelling at the bottom corners, which as I suspected, had rust once opened up. I was surprised to see the upper tube portion of the front bed panel with holes in it after blasting, not what I expected. Seems an odd place for rot. We went with a Mar-K manufacturing panel. It seemed better quality than OEM, and a perfect fit. rockers weren't real bad, and the inners were even better, but I don't want to deal with any rust-through issues down the road. The rockers are being replaced with NOS rockers I have collected from a board member.

Thats it for now. After metal repairs, the plan is to send it back to the blast/powder shop and have the entire body epoxy powder coat primed.

Until next time....

[IronCanine]

There is something about a roller (drivetrain + chassis) that is really appealing to me. I could stare at it all day.

Nice progress and good plan. Thanks for the updates. Keep em coming.

[AZ Chev]

As for the body, metal repairs are complete on the cab and bed, and the body has been sent out for an epoxy powder-coat primer.

I'v been working on a fun little project locating all of the original seals and gaskets necessary to restore the factory sliding window. With lots of work, and trying many samples, I believe I have assembled everything needed for the project. Vintagetrailergaskets.com has been a great help. I have also purchased an oem window latch from a board member to complete the project. I'll keep you posted on how this goes, but at this time, I have been able to find all of the correct weatherstrips and seals. I haven't yet started the restoration of the window, but will post as I do.

I have disassembled the front and rear axles, stripping the housings and setting aside all components to be powder-coated along with the frame. Rear diff checks out fine with all clearances in spec, all bearings, gears, etc. look great. The front however has had water in it at one time, and the bearings are pitted. Everything else checks out ok. I have ordered new bearings. Looks like we are working with 410 gears.

Another project I'v been working on is learning to electroplate bolts and components. I ordered a couple of kits from Casswell, the copycad zink, and the chromate dips for different colors, as well as the power source. It's amazing what you can do with this stuff. I'll be posting pictures of my plated product as I go, but have successfully plated the gold color, blue color, olive drab color, and black. I also purchased the Iron Oxide kit, which is a simple two step dip, no power source or heat required. The plating definitely takes some practice and learning the product, but the oxide is super simple and easy. It allows you to restore finish on bolts with little to no effort. I'v been carefully keeping track of all of the original fasteners and their locations, and locating the missing ones so I can restore all of the original fasteners and hardware for this build.

Stay tuned...more to come.

[IronCanine]

Been considering the Caswell kits. Looking forward to your results.

[DeadheadNM]

Very curious about it all. I restored a slider by running around local glass shops to find seals. Post up any Eaton rear part numbers you can share for a reference.

[Ol Blue K20]

I'm waiting to see how the bolts turn out. I'm also watching for the slider restore too.

[AZ Chev]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Very curious about it all. I restored a slider by running around local glass shops to find seals. Post up any Eaton rear part numbers you can share for a reference.

Hey Pete, I'll send you pics. What exactly are you looking for, cast numbers on the housing, or something else?

Thanks

[AZ Chev]

The frame and axle housings, as well as many other engine brackets, inner fenders, etc. are out for powder. I'v started restoring the transfer case. The thread at this link has been super helpful.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=469726

It's amazing how easy things are with good instructions.

[AZ Chev]

The input shaft splines on the transfer case were badly worn, as was the sleeve in the transfer case adapter. It looks as if the wear was caused by the cracked adapter. I have ordered a new input shaft, and bearings. I have purchased a new adapter to install with the transfer case. We're working on re-plating all of the fasteners for the transfer case now, and painting the case.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by AZ Chev

Hey Pete, I'll send you pics. What exactly are you looking for, cast numbers on the housing, or something else?

Thanks

Thanks and no rush. Just curious about replacement part numbers for bearings, seals, shoes, etc. for future reference. I've got some HO52 spare parts that I've squirreled away and am happy to share these numbers if useful. I would be curious to see a photo of the wheel cylinders when out to confirm those I picked up actually look correct.

I spent this afternoon adding a speedometer shaft sleeve to stem the NP205 leak I had in the Blazer.

[best view]

Any updates

[AZ Chev]

So, life happens, and I haven' been able to work on the the truck or report the progress I have made as much as I would like. Transfer case turned out great and is back together. Frame is back from Powder, as are all the brackets, axle housings, etc. I'v been working on the plating project, and prepping parts for the engine.

[AZ Chev]

I have installed the axle housings, reconditioned PS gear box, and ss brake lines from Inline tube. The brake lines weren't bad, but could have fit better.

I went with 2" EZ-Ride lift springs and steering arm from Tuff Country as well as ss braided brake hoses. The lift is most likely one of the only departures I will make on the build from original and factory. The original springs will be put into storage in case I ever decide to go back to stock height. I just wanted to bolster the stance a little.

Interesting fact, when I received the springs, the front springs say 2", and the rear springs say 4". I called tech support at Tuff Country, (which by the way were very responsive and helpful), and they say the 2" lift kit comes with 4" rear springs due to the fact these trucks sat 2" lower in the rear from the factory, so a 2" lift and level I guess. Looking forward to seeing the stance with the suspension loaded with drivetrain and body.

I have ordered Bilstein 5125 shocks to compliment the lift ORD.

I have plated all of the hardware that came on the chassis, as well as a few new nuts and bolts to match. It's actually fairly easy, and a lot of fun. A close look at the photos will show the hardware. I also plated the front spring shackles.

I'll try to start posting a little more frequently again. Until next time....

[AZ Chev]

Forgot the pictures, LOL. Attached

[IronCanine]

Thanks for the update. Everything looks great. Can't wait to see the stance when it's married up.

Color of TC looks really spot on in pics. Just curious what paint you used.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by ironcanine

thanks for the update. Everything looks great. Can't wait to see the stance when it's married up.

Color of tc looks really spot on in pics. Just curious what paint you used.

x2

[AZ Chev]

I tried a lot of different paints and primers, this matched the original color the closest. I put a satin clear over the primer. I’m real happy with how it turned out.

[best view]

We need updates

[AZ Chev]

Well.... It's been slow.... Life. I have however been making progress. I'v been detailing the freshly built motor that came in the truck, re-finishing and/or plating original hardware from the donor truck motor, attempting to use the correct original hardware in the correct locations. I plated the air cleaner spacer as well.

The original carburetor from he donor was sent out to Bob Stone, (classic carb) and restored.

As future pictures will illustrate, several non original parts shown in these first engine pictures will be switched out with original or excellent reproduction parts as we progress. We will not be keeping the after-market exhaust manifolds, drive belts, or HEI distributor.

I'v been lucky to find most of the hard to find original parts that were missing from members of this community, such as the 72 4x4 dip stick, etc.

This truck will also have factory cruise control. The pictures illustrate some of the brackets and cables on the carburetor, etc. (thanks Roger Koop)

[AZ Chev]

I'm using AC Delco replacements parts when available when original parts are not available. The new AC compressor was very rough, so I ended up disassembling it and detailing it before installation.

[AZ Chev]

A couple more pics. I'll be using a new reproduction engine wire harness from American Auto Wire, and will be using an alternator with an internal voltage regulator.

My youngest has been great help along the way. He says he is ready to build one for himself. He likes to wonder through the barns contemplating which one will be his, lol.

[Ol Blue K20]

Thanks for the update. It's looking good.

[AZ Chev]

In a quest to come up with the correct blue dial hubs for the build, I came across a NOS set of hubs with NOS bolts. They didn't come with dials, so I was able to find a couple sets of clean used dials to restore. In the process of collecting parts for the hubs, I ended up with one extra set of blue dial hubs I ended up restoring. I had the hubs re-chromed, plated the bolts myself, etc. The restored hubs actually turned out better than the NOS ones. The factory chrome wasn't the best quality and had minor flaws, but I ended up using the NOS set anyway. For now, I'll save the restored set for a future build. The hubs that come on the truck were in decent shape, but scarred up and had the yellow dials.