Sarge's rattle-can rebuild

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Here's a few from dying the visors, door panels and adding some ebay map-pockets. I have a set of Cabela's camo covers on the orginal bucket seats that I don't have a picture of. The interior is otherwise original and bare but we will put a full civilian interior in it.

Dang, I've got spare 78 blazer seats exactly that brown....newly upolstered too...btw john...i just got a 88 k5...love it!

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by made2drag

Dang, I've got spare 78 blazer seats exactly that brown....newly upolstered too...btw john...i just got a 88 k5...love it!

Those do look nice. I saw where you bought the K5, congrats! Start a thread w/pics!

This one has been down a few weeks. I got the doors stripped bare for new weather stripping and general refurb, then it dies. First the fuel filter was sucking air then the injection pump died. I finally got it all sorted out and running again. I'll update soon.

[made2drag]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Those do look nice. I saw where you bought the K5, congrats! Start a thread w/pics!

This one has been down a few weeks. I got the doors stripped bare for new weather stripping and general refurb, then it dies. First the fuel filter was sucking air then the injection pump died. I finally got it all sorted out and running again. I'll update soon.

cool. yeah, i wish mine was a 2wd. it's nice and has a new motor and came with 11k of receipts on mechanical stuff...best part is it has a softopper and a shell. the softopper is nice....2 mins to drop and 5 mins to put back up.

[made2drag]

[made2drag]

i have the drivers mounting brackets too

[made2drag]

pm sent

[Palf70Step]

Enjoying reading this. Looking forward to your next upgrades.

[68Timber]

Thanks Bill. I have the glass and seals out of the doors and I'm trying to rebuild the vents. Hope to have an update soon, whenever I get those buttoned up again.

[68Timber]

I'm overdue an update here. Here's a pic from where I left off. Stance enhanced, but body still beat. The paint doesn't bother me, but the doors... You can see all the paint has burned off the vent window frames down to brown. The mirrors are dented and door handles could use some attention. What you can't see is all the missing weather stripping, worn hinges, and worn strikers with the bushings long gone. You had to slam the doors to get them to shut. They needed serious help all around, but the slamming part needed attention first. I considered getting some used doors so they'd be straight for paint, but when I ran that by my son he said he didn't want to paint it. To quote him, "Why bother?" Works for me. Out with the cherry picker.

[68Timber]

Given the paint status, I didn't have a problem using a sharpie to make a few reference marks on the doors to mark the position of the hinges, so it wasn't hard to get them back on. Cutting the pins out took more time than anything. I'd previously tried to powder coat the new strikers but couldn't get it to stick. So I gave them a shot of black just so I wouldn't have to watch them turn brown. So with new hinge pins/bushings and strikers/bushings, wow. The doors shut normally. I won't put that job off ever again. So with more time left than I expected, I gutted the doors. Well, not entirely - I left the latches and interior door handles in so you could still use them. But the exterior handles, locks, mirrors, vents, and door glass came off or out. Purty strikers posing provocatively.

[68Timber]

I got a little side-tracked with mechanical issues. First it was hard starting. I'd recently replaced my fuel filter and didn't see the invisible "do not disturb" sign. When I broke the seal it was done. Diesels just don't run when air starts getting in the fuel lines. Or so they told me at dieselplace.com. I didn't know squat about diesels except they sound cool. Anyway, with their help I got that part fixed. I tried to rebuild the stock filter housing, but you can't get those seals anywhere. Not that I could find anyway. So I installed the Napa spin-on setup every else recommends. So it's running again.

[Irish1941]

I have factory GM pins and bushings for hinges if you need
Thing looks cool. Keep it up

[48cj2a]

Looking good and learning more and more as you work on it.

I'm working on one for my Base Commanders Friend. Did a thread on Steel Soldiers, check it out on some stuff I had to do for the firewall Resistor Pack by pass and a manual GP push button: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...Will-Not-Start

I'm about to do the filter conversion on it next but I'm going to use the WIX 24770 mount with twin in and out ports so I can incorporate a petcock for air bleeding.



Also going to do 90s on the fittings for this one.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

Looking good and learning more and more as you work on it.

I'm working on one for my Base Commanders Friend. Did a thread on Steel Soldiers, check it out on some stuff I had to do for the firewall Resistor Pack by pass and a manual GP push button: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthr...Will-Not-Start

I'm about to do the filter conversion on it next but I'm going to use the WIX 24770 mount with twin in and out ports so I can incorporate a petcock for air bleeding.



Also going to do 90s on the fittings for this one.

I saw where you were working through that issue on SS. So it ended up being the glow plug card? I replaced mine earlier this year with one from Hillbilly Wizard. I've read a lot of threads about manual glow plug control, but it's just not necessary down here in AL. Our winters are so mild the factory WAIT cycle is plenty. Have you thought about removing the mechanical lift pump and replacing it with an electric one from a 6.5? It's on my list for now just for the priming help.

[48cj2a]

Can you post a before and after pic of the rivet completion?

[48cj2a]

This one is not mine, but if it happens on mine I will do it for sure. I do not know 100% it was the card but it is not applying the ground to the LtBlue wire on the GP Solenoid and there is not anything else left in the circuit so its probable.

Once I did get it started its was making quite a racket in the flywheel area when starting like bad or missing teeth on the fly or the starter is not shimmed correctly.

Today I drove it to work and stopped to get a haircut on the way home. Would not restart and only sounds like bendix spinning and not engaging...had to have it towed 1/2 mile home...uuugh

I have to pull the flywheel cover tomorrow after work and have a look see.

I learned a lot troubleshooting this one and getting inspired to get back into mine.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

Can you post a before and after pic of the rivet completion?

I'll get an "after" pic tomorrow of the "pivot rivet". It looks factory to me, worth the money spent on the tool.

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

This one is not mine, but if it happens on mine I will do it for sure. I do not know 100% it was the card but it is not applying the ground to the LtBlue wire on the GP Solenoid and there is not anything else left in the circuit so its probable.

Once I did get it started its was making quite a racket in the flywheel area when starting like bad or missing teeth on the fly or the starter is not shimmed correctly.

Today I drove it to work and stopped to get a haircut on the way home. Would not restart and only sounds like bendix spinning and not engaging...had to have it towed 1/2 mile home...uuugh

I have to pull the flywheel cover tomorrow after work and have a look see.

I learned a lot troubleshooting this one and getting inspired to get back into mine.

When mine did that it was due to a broken starter bolt. Turned out the factory starter nose cone support bracket was missing. Hope you didn't lose any teeth on the flex plate.

[68Timber]

Here's the only part that gave me any real trouble. The rubber strips that hold the vent glass in the frame, it's a weird angle to deal with because you want to be driving the glass down toward the point of the "V" of the vent but the edge of the glass is at an oblique angle. If that makes any sense. I got them in, but I wasn't satisfied with the fit so I dropped them off at a glass company, they've got some sort of epoxy for the job now and don't bother with the friction fit anymore. He did tell me when I picked them up that they had a hell of a time getting the glass out, so maybe I had them in the good. Once I got them home, they were ready for final assembly. Someone here did a write up on rebuilding these and he used vaseline to help massage the seals into the channels, so that's what I used. I've read where others have used RTV there successfully.

[48cj2a]

Those look like NOS!

[68Timber]

It was my son's idea to paint the door handles and mirrors black, but he was adamant about flat black. I knew flat black would look more correct than satin but I was worried about how easy it scratches. After stewing on it a little, I found that Rustoleum makes a matte clear so we decided to use that over the flat black. The tailgate did not have a lock cylinder in the crank when I bought it, so I bought one and took it to the locksmith with my locks and had them rekeyed to match. We cleaned up the door handles parts and got them painted and reassembled. I mentioned earlier that one of my mirrors was beat and dented. I bought a used white mirror from a member here, and I think it was willowrun, my apologies if I'm remembering wrong. But I took all three mirrors apart including busting the glass out to start from scratch. I used the best parts of the three to make two. Everything was blasted and painted separately then put back together. Around this time I dropped my phone outside and didn't realize it until my son brought it to me later that day busted and done. So I don't have any pics of the mirror parts being done. But they went through the same thing the vents and door handles did. I tried to clean up the window regulators but each side had one plastic wheel that just wouldn't free up no matter what I did. So I ended up getting new AC Delco replacements from RockAuto.

[48cj2a]

Again look NOS!

The door handles, tailgate window crank assembly and lock covers were all Black when new on these.

I enlisted when my unit was phasing out the Dodge 800 series for GM 1XXXX CUCVs.

Just wish I would have paid more attention when we phased them out for Hummers.

You would not believe the parts that went in the dumpster and I know for a fact they kept the entire Fuel Filter Assemblies and Glow Plug Controller Cards on Bench Stock because of all the problems.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by 48cj2a

Again look NOS!

The door handles, tailgate window crank assembly and lock covers were all Black when new on these.

I enlisted when my unit was phasing out the Dodge 800 series for GM 1XXXX CUCVs.

Just wish I would have paid more attention when we phased them out for Hummers.

You would not believe the parts that went in the dumpster and I know for a fact they kept the entire Fuel Filter Assemblies and Glow Plug Controller Cards on Bench Stock because of all the problems.

Thanks! I can believe it, but I don't understand why they didn't opt for the simple spin-on fuel filter from the start. They had GM change a lot little things to better suit them. I guess that one slipped by them. It wouldn't have mattered if you could service the filter base with standard O-rings instead of something unique. Mine is laying in a CUCV parts pile of things removed.

[68Timber]

So, we're keeping the doors and paint (here comes the "P" word...) and patina, but it doesn't mean I want to keep all the dents. The CARC paint is some really tough stuff, so i ordered a seat of Eastwoods brand of body hammers/dollys. And commenced to beating on the doors. No prior experience, books, or DVD's for this, just a little common sense. And I'll be the first to admit I've got some "reverse dents" now. But I don't care. They're much straighter and look better to me. I couldn't resist getting the pressure washer out while they were shells. With rotted seals there was a lot of dirt and dust inside the doors, so we hosed the insides down with Purple Power and cut loose with the pressure washer. Amazingly, no rust in there. Blind squirrel moment. And in another one of those "while we're here" moments, I had to try Peal-n-Seal in the doors. The roll is 6" wide, I used three 20" long strips in each door centered going from the body line to the bottom edge. It did make the doors sound better when they close. Just trying to make the best of what we've got, a lot more effort going on here than money.

[68Timber]

Glass back in the doors w/new seals. With the new regulators in, the fit is snug but smooth.

[48cj2a]

Looks good and I like the peel and stick idea for sound deadener.

When I swapped motors from my donor vehicle I reused the cool Civy Diesel firewall sound deadener panels except for the one over the blower motor because I want to eventually install A/C...Something to watch for in the pick n pulls, just attaches with a 7mm headed screw.