Bartmans AD-S10 Chassis Swap

[RootBeer 6117]

ok Bartman now that your back we need updates!

[av8tr33337]

Well RootBeer there isn't much to update. Money continues to be tight with this economy. I'm working 2 jobs, about 65 hours a week total and making about $10,000.00 a year less than I was in 2009 when I got laid off from Cessna, here in Wichita. Strange thing is my house payment and bills didn’t go down. Funny how that works.

I do have all my ball Joints and front end bushings, so I need to get off my ass and get back at it.

One reason I've been procrastinating is because I did such a nice Job on the chassis (Minus the front and rear suspension) that I wanted to hold to the same quality of prep, priming and painting. It's my first project and I just don't want it to look like a first project. I guess I just need to bite the bullet and spend a couple hundred on epoxy primer and chassis paint like I used earlier. I didn’t want to resort to rattles cans, like I said, after doing a good job on the rest of the chassis.

Once I paint and assemble the front and rear suspension, I can start prepping my engine and tranny, running lines etc. I have a Camaro 305 with a fresh long block(10k miles before car was wrecked over 10 years ago) and 700R4 combo. I just plan to freshen them up. Paint them both and put some new gaskets in the engine. Add some nice valve covers, etc. nothing to expensive.

Would be nice if I could get all that done and have them set in place by the end of the summer then turn my attention to sheet metal in the fall.

Shouldn't take much cash to get to that point. I should probably get rid of my original chassis that I put a narrowed C10 front suspension on before I decided to do the S10 chassis swap. Have not advertised on the forum yet. I need to check into doing that.

I’ve seen some more really nice builds popping up, and more S10 chassis swaps. I'll be especially watching those as I think I'm subscribed to every one of them.

Thanks for stopping by.

[RootBeer 6117]

Dude I completely understand. I am within about $200-300 of being able to get my licensed and on the road and it looks like its going to have to go up for sale to pay bills, 3rd time wasn't the charm. 3 times I have started a project like this and it looks like 3 times I will have to sell it. I did 2 weeks of nights fixing large mowing equipment last week but after 35 years of day jobs fixing mowers at 1 am didn't work to well I hurt to much to do that . He called me I didn't look for that job. I decided the only reason I had to work so much was because of stuff so I guess I need less stuff. Aint life fun some days? Hang in there I'll be Rootin for ya.

[99 to Life]

bartman,

love the video, truck is coming along great. Where are the music credits?? Band sounds like my friends old band called Rumbledaddy.

[av8tr33337]

Says somewhere under or next to the video on youtube.

"Thanks to Lance Bakemeyer-Mudflap Baby", sound recording administered by:
CD Baby

They are the "Hillbilly Hellcats"

I think these guys are out of the Denver Colorado Area.

Heres a link to them performing the second song on my video

Hillbilly Hellcats - Mudflap Baby - 2011-10-28 -...

[av8tr33337]

I started replacing my lower control arm bushings. I hope to finish The lowers and uppers tomorrow, Then replace my ball joints. (doing an s10 chassis swap on my 51 AD 3100) I'm going to try to get all my front suspension done, painted and reassemble by the end of Forth of July weekend. Want to get this this back on the ground

Mocked up


Chassis minus suspension 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 coats of chassis black

[99 to Life]

well some good and bad news for us then, sux for you cause thats just another little added to do and money that didn't need to be spent. I'm sure someone could make use of them and get the old BJ out. Especially someone that is using them for an air ride set up and are dehumping the Aarm, they are already cutting up it up and welding so thats about the only crowd I can see that would take the time to get them right.

[99 to Life]

heck, buy a whole other frame for 100 bucks take what you need and sell it off.

[av8tr33337]

I finished installing all my control arm bushings and ball joints. I shined everything up with knotted wire cups, wiped it all down with lacquer thinner. Then I hung everything up and hit it with 2 coats of primer then 2 coats of black. Hope it's dry enough in the morning that I can get the front end back together.



I didn’t paint the spindles because I’m planning to do 2 inch drop spindles in the future. I just want to be able to role this thing out so I can get to work on the engine and tranny clean up and repaint.

This is only my second time painting. I'm using a Harbor Freight HVLP gun. I have to say that I have had good luck with this gun. Of course the undercarriage is a little less critical. But I have had no issues with runs or anything else. Good even coverage throughout.

[Bubba54]

Chassis looking good. looks like the paint turned out nice.

Shawn

[RootBeer 6117]

Looking good, good to see you back on it.

[av8tr33337]

Thanks, There is a lot I can do without breaking the bank. I checked the parts before I went to bed and it looks like I should be able to put it together today.
I better get out there and get on it.

[mknittle]

looks real good Bartman. spraying frame and suspension parts is good practice.

[av8tr33337]

Some people might get upset when some of us post every little bit of progress no mater how small, but to me, this is somewhat of a milestone. This bare chassis has been sitting up on saw horses for almost 2 years. So please forgive me for over posting.

I finished up re-assembling the front suspension today and rolled the rear back into place.

My Son came out to help me move a few things around in the yard so I had him spray all the dust off it for some pics. I even got him to pose with it. He's more into computers than cars so he doesn't usually help much. However he does tell me it looks "Cool" everytime he sees a change in the progress then he hangs out for a few minutes and we stare at it together

I still need to tighten a few things down and put my upper control arm shims back in place, but at least it's a rolling chassis now.

[99 to Life]

Hey I'm totally enjoying the pics. I love to see a complete rolling chassis and all its mods ready to go in paint. Your doing great. Keep it up. Can't wait to see this one done.

[RootBeer 6117]

"Some people might get upset when some of us post every little bit of progress no mater how small, but to me, this is somewhat of a milestone. This bare chassis has been sitting up on saw horses for almost 2 years. So please forgive me for over posting."

Some people get upset when they have to change underwear every day, they'll get over it. After all I am only here to look at the pictures not read the articles.

I told my class at the beginning of last year we are going to go as far as we can for free when it starts to cost it stops, Surprisingly we got a lot done.

[av8tr33337]

Thanks 99 to Life and RootBeer. Thanks for your support and encouragement. I need to get a little clean up on the garage so I can regroup and move on.

I found the old Camaro rotors and calipers yesterday that came off my donor car. They are in great shape. I did some checking at Autozone.com and if I read it right, the 84 Camaro used the same rotors and calipers as the 94 S10. I guess I'm assuming the actual hub and bearings will be the same. I will look into that further. The rotors I got with this S10 chassis are junk and it had no calipers so one more example of working on a budget.

[IMG][/IMG]

I'll fit everything first to make sure, then clean up the bearings and repack them if they are ok and replace the seals. Again keeping it low budget.

I still need to decide what to do about my gas tank. I put up a thread and got some responses but not sure which way to go yet. Im using a 1984 Carberated 305 with a mechanical on-engine fuel pump on my build. The guy who owned my 94 S10 Chassis before I got it, removed the in-tank pump and left me with just a shell with no inlets or lid, etc. I Know I could replace all that, but I would like to use the mechanical pump.

Coupguy2001 said "Measure the diameter. I have a gas pickup out of a 78 chevy pickup, and I was about to throw it away.
It's yours for the shipping if the diameter is the same."

1Project2many said "Shouldn't be a big deal. In '94 the fuel pump was separate from the sending unit. So you could buy a sender and use a short piece of steel tubing in place of the fuel pump. They still sell fuel tank socks for carb applications so there's no trouble getting the strainer."

Mr48Chevy said, "You might look at a sending unit off an 82/84 S-10 with a carburetored V6 that had a mechanical pump."

"Something like what Coupeguy2001 offered may actually work better though if the height of the float is right because it only has two lines running to it. The pickup line and the return line."

To Be honest I had been so busy trying to get this thing into a rolling chassis the last 3 days I had not had much time to contemplate the possibilities suggested. Will give it some thought this week.

[av8tr33337]

Confirmed that autozone shows the same part number for both 84 Camaro and 94 S10 for front hub and rotor assy P/N 5547B

[IMG][/IMG]



Same wheel bearings as well. Chevy just makes my life easier. So many compatible parts.

[av8tr33337]

Well I got the 305 to fired up about 4 times for 5 or 6 seconds. I don’t think I’m getting gas up to the carb yet. I was just dumping a little gas through the top of the carb. 5 times cranking and then the battery needed recharged. I loaned my charger to a family member about a year ago. They say the returned it a long time ago but I have not seen it since. Don't you hate that? Anyway it sounds really good while it's running. I borrowed the neighbors trickle charger. That will take forever but I got time. Going to go back it in a while and put some gas right in the bowl and try it. Should run a little longer and maybe the fuel pump with pick up and take over.

[99 to Life]

good score on the rotors. as for tank, are you locating it in the rear or in the s10 stock location on the drivers side? I went with a tanksinc aftermarket tank that I put in the stock s10 location, I only did that because I wanted to run a 30 ohm sending unit which had a smaller diameter top and didn't have a great stock tank to work with let alone want to drain and weld stuff up on. Plus a new tank I felt better about, next truck I'm trying a blazer tank and mounting in the rear. Didn't like the thought of that originally because of careless drivers smacking my rear. Another prob I had with my tanksinc tank was there wasn't a return line, so I just used the vent port as a return and drilled out my gas cap and put a breather on it. Anyway, possibilities are endless, I'd keep the mechanical pump and return line set up. Just find a tank that accommodates your location, out and return line, breather and sending unit. Or modify which sounds like the situation you are in. drilling and welding an old tank vs buying a new one is a tuff decision.

[av8tr33337]

Well I was referring to the original S10 tank that sits on the drivers side. But I am going to be running some v8 conversion headers that I picked up cheap on craigs list and dual exaust, So Im not sure if the drivers side location is a good choice. I think I would have to run both exhaust pipes to the right side and then bring the left back accross to the drivers side. I'll be looking for threads that have gone that rout and see what they did. I don't really like the blazer tank unless the bed floor is raised as it looks like it is slightly visible from behind even if you use a roll pan. I had a Dodge Caravan tank that resembles the 65 mustang tanks that I've seen guys use between the bed rails in the back, but not sure what kind of issues I would run into with that. I just need to do a little more research I guess.

[Atommik]

I left my S10 tank in it's stock location. But after deciding to mount the battery to the frame rail, under the bed floor, (on the pass. side)across from the gas tank, Dual exhaust would no longer be and option. I made a cross over pipe and ran single exhaust past the tank and now I am deciding if I will split it again or just leave it single. I'm running 2 1/2" tubing, and my motor is only 250 hp so I don't think single exhaust would be restrictive at all. If the battery was located somewhere else, there would have been more than enough room to run dual all the way back, just a little more plumbing.

[av8tr33337]

LOL Atommic, you know....I just spent the last 1.5 hours going through your build again. I saw what you did and I like it. I just kinda like maybe having the duals comming out of the running boards like somebody else on here did. I have seen some 2 in and 2 out mufflers. I used to like to just run glass packs. I like the sound. I'm not sure they are all that popular now. Seems like most of the guys like exaust that is fairly quiet till you get on it. I'm thinking I'll put my Battery on the firewall. So I should have plenty of room for 2 exhaust pipes and then cross back over. That's how I'm leaning.

[99 to Life]

I'm running dual exhaust with tank on drivers side, but I didn't come over the axle because I want to build a "tool"box where in the spare tire location. Did you check out tanksinc, maybe there is another rear tank that would suit you. also I run my battery behind the seat, very convenient for me there.

[av8tr33337]

No I didn't Check out Tanksinc. You know me. I am cheap. LOL

I'll probably use what I got and run it out the back. I looked at some of my pics and there is no way to turn out in front of the rear tire with the stock tank.

Hmmm behind the seat. I hadn't though of that. I suppose you put it in a Battery box. Not a bad idea.