My 1967 Build (Finally)

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by 67km1590

Thanks for the reply, I'm building a '67 KM 1500 truck back all original and I'm missing the V6 engine mount stands. Your truck is coming along really nice, I've been following since my cab needs the same areas repaired as yours but will need a complete floor pan.

Thanks for following along! Hopefully you find some mounts - I'll keep an eye out.

Originally Posted by Chevys4life

Subscribed!!!

Welcome aboard!

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Great craftsmanship! Looking good

Thank you! Im learning, trying to be more skillful and get this project done while doing it.

[KyleSeal]

Went home on lunch yesterday and seam sealed over the welds where they were varying heights, to fill the void and moisture seal after the primer. I didnt grind these welds down as I didnt want the metal to be too thin, as it already is, and this area isnt necessarily seen, it will be covered by a speaker plate and the underside will be coated in a texture finish Raptor Liner.

Next I positioned my rear passenger floor pan for the final time, and got it mostly burned in. Didnt want to warp the floor with too much heat so Im going to split this over two days (I work all day and have a few hours in the after-work-period to get these things done).

Also, did I mention I have a fear of metal shifting while welding? Well thats where my large collection of clamps comes in. This doesnt even scratch the surface as to how many I have, God may not even know how many I have collected over the years

[KyleSeal]

Welds on the cab corner were all ground and blended in, and did all the final stitching for the rear floor piece. This weekend I plan to grind the seam on the rear floor flat, and do final prep and prime of the rocker for installation, then its just buttoning up a few things in the front and I'll be moving on to the drivers side for repair. Once the drivers side is done I plan to undercoat, as I may have stated before.

[KyleSeal]

Update from this weekend. Blended the welds down for the rear floor section, and went through and did some seam sealing on the inner body skin and the rear floor to see how I like the new SEM 2 in 1 and it works very well. Spreads easy but does not seem to sag or run.

[KyleSeal]

Installed the square nuts and seam sealed all around to get everything set in place so I can do final primer, and install the rocker permanently. I am being very meticulous about this as I hear horror stories all the time, and I want to do this once. Did final mock up of the rocker to see where my weld-thru will need to be applied, and not pictured, but I sandblasted the rocker to remove all of the weak e-coat, and I will etch primer and then put some red oxide primer as well for when I do my faux-tina.

[72 tigger]

Should last at least 50 years

[KyleSeal]

Fell off the deep end and sandblasted the rocker bolts, and sandblasted the rocker to get rid of any potentially weak e-coat, and primered with self etching primer.

[KyleSeal]

Once I was finished sandblasting, I prepped the inner face of the rocker and sprayed some 'red oxide' primer to kind of mimic the factory base primer, but also for added protection. I then primed the inner rocker, a-pillar and b-pillar. Unfortunately ran out of my gray self etching primer, so I will be postponed one day on install of the outer rocker. In the mean time I will prep the inner rocker's spot weld areas and treat them with weld-thru, do one last fitment and burn it in.

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Should last at least 50 years

Thats the intent!

[LT7A]

I like hearing your explanations and thought process. Doesn't seem like it's your first build. I've never had to go through this rust repair process and I don't know if I would have the patience and would have to develop the skills as I went through it. I think you're doing a nice job of it.

[KyleSeal]

Last night, though small in scale as far as complicated work, was a big night. I began install of the outer rocker. No going back now.

I started by, after primer, installing loose and finding all of the spot weld areas, took them to bare metal with a roloc red scotch brite pad and cleared some of the area around. Clearing the area around allowed me to spray weld-thru and ensure it would coat the bare areas in the process of welding (weld thru turns the metal galvanized to my understanding). I did this to both sides of the spot weld areas, to ensure good burn in and (hopefully) longevity.

[KyleSeal]

And after some fitting and minimal shaping, the rocker is in. I kind of hopped around while welding, to dissipate heat and ensure the rocker wasnt getting out-of-whack during the job. It fits well - the rocker to cab corner area is a bit off, but none more than the factory would have been, so Im okay with it. The intent with the truck comes down to the word 'close'. I want it all close, too clean and it would be out of place, this is a patina-drive-anywhere truck, not a show stopper.

Im happy with it all.




Also, burned in the front floor pan and kick panel, I need to grind it down, which Ill do on one of my grind-days.

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by LT7A

I like hearing your explanations and thought process. Doesn't seem like it's your first build. I've never had to go through this rust repair process and I don't know if I would have the patience and would have to develop the skills as I went through it. I think you're doing a nice job of it.

Thank you! Ive certainly been around this stuff for a while, you really learn a lot working on various conditions of metal. The best thing to do is practice, which can sometimes be the hardest thing to do. But once you've got it down, you feel like no problem is too big!

[KyleSeal]

Another item I plan to install on this truck are the PB hood hinges, for whenever I get around to bagged stuff, and this inner dash / cowl area was very clean, with the exception of where a few pieces of sheet metal go together, there was a small 'rip' in the metal. Slowly cut away until what you see here. Still deciding if I should remove that brace and clean further or use some of my methods to clean while in the truck.

[KyleSeal]

Back after the long weekend. Got a good amount done, started on the passenger side, tore it down to get a loose idea of what needs to happen. Pictures for reference.

[KyleSeal]

Removed a section of the pan to access the cab mount plate, removed the plate and cab support, found that the main rail that the cab support and firewall brace to had lost its spot welds, I decided to just weld the outsides of the seams to ensure it doesnt do this again. I also actually like the Eastwood door pin pieces, they work well if the door needs to come off and on frequently for checks. But beware, the drill bits supplied are weak and like to snap. I used one of my Mac drill bit sets instead.

[KyleSeal]

Removed all of the outer rocker and inner kick panel that was pretty compromised, Im rather surprised that this area was complete, obviously very pitted. The outer rocker was actually not spot welded in place whatsoever aside from maybe 1.5

Fixed up the top plate from all the beating and spot weld cutting, kind of did a number on it. I later got it in primer and headed out to the water.

[KyleSeal]

Progress is slower than usual, waiting on paint and seam sealers to dry always piles up into a ton of time. Regardless, got the front support burned in, top plate as well, and seam sealed in that joint to keep out all the things that killed the first one.

While I waited for paints to dry there, I did one full can treatment of the inner frame coating from Eastwood, and it worked well (pictured is the a-pillar). I take a drier duct cleaning tool to remove loose dirt, rust and scale where I cant reach. I also use a straight wire to guide the hose into the channel, as it comes wrapped in a coil. Also pictured are some of the paints and such I use in rusty original areas.

[KyleSeal]

Placed and welded in the drivers side floor pan last night, went it pretty well - the outer portion of the pan, where the rocker, kick panel, and a-pillar fit together is seemingly stamped about .5inch off to the rear. I will just install the inner rocker piece in that area and stitch weld it together. I used the block of wood with a bolt through the cab support to hold the pan tight to the support plate to minimize the amount of gap, and avoid pushing down with a hammer handle.

[KyleSeal]

Started fitting the innrer and outer rocker and making sure the kick panel and a-pillar pieces were going to line up well, this is where sheet metal screws come in handy. Found that the replacement floor pan piece is quite off where the kick panel kind of 'swoops' into the inner rocker, so I cut that section away in favor of the replacement inner rocker piece that fits better, also the cab support holes on the new inner rocker piece are far more in line with the factory holes.

[KyleSeal]

The slllloooowwwww side of everything. Measuring, notation, fitment and treatment. Realizing I didn't want to nail down the front of the patches without at least locating the rear sections, I decided to begin work in the rear of the driver's side. Removal of rear cab support, floor pan and some pieces of the cab corner were in order.

Next I decided to tackle the rust that was pretty rampant throughout the corner and was pretty scaley, and man does that job suck. Wire wheel, roloc pad, DA, sandpaper, all kinds of messy tools. Thinking of investing in a small handheld blaster to tackle this corner, as my portable unit has to spray straight media for at least 5 seconds before building pressure, and in a garage that is a no-go.

[KyleSeal]

Cab corner hole... square... has been patched! Really went without issue. This corner is kind of tweaked if you cant tell in the photo, which doesnt bother me given the theme here. Spent a good amount of time wire wheeling and broke down and got a handheld siphon blaster, and man what a mess. But it did help me clean up some seams and some deeper rust. I later applied ospho to convert anything I couldnt get down to.

[Scurry67]

Excellent work in such a short amount of time. I’m following along.

[KyleSeal]

Boy do I hate waiting on paint to dry but slow progress sure beats zero progress. Let the ospho dry good, scraped off the scale and got some rust encapsulator down, and man does it go on well. Bottle sprays well, wide pattern, and hopefully works well.

Waiting for that to dry, I started trimming the b-pillar piece. These new updated ones are great, curvature is awesome and nearly spot on. Those old ones were just expensive coated steel. Noted the old one had a spot-welded wire loom tab, so I cut one out of some 18ga steel from an old patch, spot welded, and used electrical shrink wrap to replicated factory look. I will paint all these treated areas body color and overspray like the factory lazily did

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by Scurry67

Excellent work in such a short amount of time. I’m following along.

Thank you. Trying to get it on the road and enjoy it some before car show season ends!