Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by pcmcobra

s&p does have a "high side" a/c relocating bracket kit. Comes with a belt also, I think. As with all from s&p it's pricey.

I'll just make this work!


Today I made another salvage yard run. I got the LT1 camaro brake calipers I need as well as another wiring harness for the motor. This one is the correct harness for the transmission (4L60E) I'll be using...rather than modifiying the one I have. I also got the underhood fuse block along with some other fuse block fittings (plug into the back of the fuse block). I'm hoping this will simpliyfiy some of the wiring. I also got the ALDL connector from inside the truck.

When I got home I fired up my parts truck, pulled it over to in front of the garage and proceeded to tear apart the front end. I took off the grill, fenders, inner fenders, hood, and cowl.

The inner fenders I'll be using as they're in pretty good shape. The rest is for sale. The radiator core support is also solid, so I'll be using that too...but I didn't pull it yet since it's still in "driveable" condition.

Here's a pic of the passenger side inner fender...not too much damage.

[Ackattack]

I got the Trans Am sold!!! All in all, I made about $1500 off of it, plus I drove it for 3 months!

Since I have some money to play with now, I ordered some parts:

ECE extreme drop member
poly trailing arm bushings
poly body mounts
poly tranny mount
poly front control arm bushings (for the 73 a arms)
ECE supertrack bar
ECE 2 1/2" drop spindles
ball joints
eaton posi and install kit
1350 series pinion yoke
braided stainless steel brake lines
tubular style engine stands and mounts
lower control arm u-bolts

there might be a few more things I'm forgetting.

I also need to order

lower control arm grease seals
headers
rear rotors (caprice)
front wheel bearings and rotors
airbag stuff
.....and the list goes on and on

That should keep me busy for awhile, and also allow me to get the rear end in so I can measure for the C-notch. Also, I can get the engine in to clearance the frame for the power steering pulley.

[Orange]

If I ever "redo" my truck, it'll be a Pro-Tourer.

I'll enjoy watching this build.

DLB

[lyrikz]

Hey Ack. What size compressor are you using on that sandblaster you have there?

Also, any more pics or detailed instructions on how your hanging on to that cab as your pulling it off with the cherry picker???

[Ackattack]

60 gallon 220V air compressor from home depot that I got several years ago....still working....but for an oil lubed one it's pretty loud. I kinda got my eye on one at sears (2 stage 60 gal) but I don't know if its worth upgrading.

The way I picked up the cab was a bad way. I used 2 chains. Each went from the front cab mount hole to the rear seat bolt hole, then I think I used a load leveler to connect the too and then to the cherry picker. The next one I pull (if I use the cherry picker) I'll make a frame on the roof and lift using that.

oh, got the a arm seals and headers ordered, and KP components is working out the details for my airbags.

[Ackattack]

Well I've been too busy to update the my build thread. Between trying to work out, finishing my bonus room into a home theater and the project truck I'v been busy

I got the ECE drop member installed, the poly bushings put in the rear control arms and the rear end mounted into the frame.

I also began to assemble the rearend, though I had to get a 1 5/16 in socket to install the 1350 series u-joint, so that is on pause for now. I also need a in-lb dial torque wrench. I did get new outer wheel bearings and seals installed. The bearing races installed into the housing. The ring gear swapped onto the posi unit.



I also got the rear calipers mocked up. Looks like they will work. I'm going to take it all back apart and powder coat the bracket and have the caliper polished. I still need to order rotors.



As you can see in the above picture I also started on the rear notch. I got one side welded in tonight. One more side to go, plus some grinding, and then touching up the paint.



I also notched the frame a little for some additional clearance for the A/C compressor lines. I'm going to wait to get the transmission before I notch the frame for the power steering pulley. I'm picking up the transmission this weekend.



I was going to use 73+ upper control arms, but I fought with the poly bushings, and said F*&^ it and went and grabbed an extra set of the correct control arms and sand blasted them. I'm going to go ahead and powder coat them too.



I got the engine stands installed.



And then test fitted the engine. I made my own engine mount adapter plates too.





I got the headers off of ebay. They're stainless steel and were only $350. They look good. My only complaint is that the bolting flange is a little off, so I'll have to fix that. These are the same brand of headers I also have on my corvette. Clearance is going to be tight, but they should work. I can't tell 100% until I get the tranny in place. My biggest concern with them is clearance for the frame mounted shift linkage thing from the steering column. The headers do tuck up nicely though!

Let's see....also made another trip to the salvage yard. I was in search of a good core support. I thought I was going to use the core support from my parts truck that is in very good shape for being an original, but I have since found out that the 69+ are different than the 67-68. The salvage yard didn't have any better condition ones than what I already have. I did manage to pick up a van tilt column though.



So that's all for now. I have a 4 day weekend coming up, so I'm hoping to bust out some more work.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I got the headers off of ebay. They're stainless steel and were only $350. They look good. My only complaint is that the bolting flange is a little off, so I'll have to fix that. These are the same brand of headers I also have on my corvette. Clearance is going to be tight, but they should work. I can't tell 100% until I get the tranny in place. My biggest concern with them is clearance for the frame mounted shift linkage thing from the steering column. The headers do tuck up nicely though!

Maybe you could use one of the Lokar (or maybe it was Ididit) column shift cable set-ups to aid in the header clearance issue.

[Ackattack]

Oh, I came up with a name for my truck. Bruiser! Cause it's going to black blue and grey. I'm thinking I'm going to paint it a color called Blue Granite Metallic.

I "borrowed" a picture of a sweet looking truck to make a rendering!

[Ackattack]

I had a 4 day weekend, so I finally able to make some good headway. My goal was to get the truck on 4 wheels. I didn't quite get there, but I'm close.

I realized that one of my hold ups was going to be powder coating some of the pieces, so I got that all ready to go, then I realized that my coating gun had broke some how (hadn't used it since I moved, and it somehow got broke in the move). Little modification, and I was back in business.

Let's see:

I got the ring and pinion installed into the rearend with the new posi unit. I reused the 4.11 gears that it originally housed, as well as the original pinion shims and carrier spacers (no shims in there). I installed all new bearings and seals. I'm using a 1350 series pinion yoke. This created a few problems. First the pinion nut that it came with was a 1 5/16" nut. So I got a new socket. Well the stupid socket wouldn't fit down into the yoke! The pinion nut that came with the bearings was basically too small. What to do? Well I went and got a big washer that fit over the pinion splines. Of course the OD was too big to fit into the yoke too.....but it was nothing a little bench grinder couldn't fix. So I then torqued the pinion nut down until I had 25in lbs of running torque (good thing I got a dial torque wrench from work ). Then I put the ring gear and diff in. Back lash was right around .008" and the pattern looked good, so hopefully it will run well. We'll see in a few years! I'm going to see about getting a new cover that has preloads for the bearing caps.

Why didn't I get the rearend all together? Well I'm putting in longer wheel studs. I got some moroso wheel studs from the local parts store. They're not an exact fit, so I'm drilling out the axles a little so they will fit. I have to use a 5/8" drill bit and my drill is acting up a little (I've used and abused it for 3 years...it's a craftsman 19.2V pretty good....but maybe it can't quite take all the abuse I throw at it). Anyways...I got one axle done and I'll finish the other axle up this week. I'll have to check on the parts number for the wheel studs if others are interested....I know it's been a topic of discussion on here.



I put the front suspension together. As I'm putting it together, I realize I installed the lower control arm shafts backwards, so I had to redo that. Then I assembled the air bags onto the plates and cups. I had to cut the lower control arm bumpstop mount off. I think I did a boo boo and cut the whole thing off, so now there isn't a steering stop. I'll ask in the suspension forum to see if I need to weld it back on...or if it's necessary. Then I put the upper a arms in. I got these cheaper ball joints from summit. I'm not impressed with them at all. I easily stripped out two of the nuts on the upper ball joint, and then when I went to tighten the castel nuts, the shafts just spun. Also, the lower one isn't the right size, since the spindle wouldn't fully seat. I had to get another lower ball joint, cause I messed up when I originally installed them, and I got a moog. Guess I'll be getting all moog now... much better quality...and I haven't even driven the thing. So the front suspension is temporarily done.





Oh yeah. For right now I used some old rotors that I had laying around. I didn't bother with the brakes either. These are temporary until I figure out what I'm doing with the front brakes.

Back to the rear.

I got the caliper hats and brackets powder coated. I'm going to get the actual caliper polished. Hope it will be a nice combo.





I finished up the welding on the other C-notch

Then I put the airbags in. I need to get longer bolts to go through the trailing arms. Also, the top of the bags aren't bolted in. I notched out the crossmember a little for the air fitting clearance. I don't really like this cause it puts the center line of each end of the bag slightly offset. What are others doing here?





So this is what it looks like now...with no air in it. Frame is about 7" off the ground.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Back to the rear.

I got the caliper hats and brackets powder coated. I'm going to get the actual caliper polished. Hope it will be a nice combo.

Sorry to go back so far but I am resurrecting a long dead 67 C-10 I have and wanted to know where you got the rear caliper brackets?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 69gmcshorty

the truck is looking great. i might have missed it but what did you end up doing for the fuel filler?? i couldn't see anything on the painted body pics.

It's poking through the right wheel well in the bed. I don't think I have any pics of it.....I'll try to get a few.

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Sorry to go back so far but I am resurrecting a long dead 67 C-10 I have and wanted to know where you got the rear caliper brackets?

I got them from a board member (don't remember his name)

[68 TT]

Great work and thanks for the motivation to resurrect my 67 C-10.

The cab was so rusted out and damaged that I cut it up a few years ago and turned it into a truck bed trailer. I found a clean 67 cab and truck arm frame that I can pick up for about $300 this weekend and it got me thinking about putting it back together with a better cab (and an intact frame).

I still have all the parts I took off the rusty C-10 so I can put the better cab and intact frame together pretty easily.

I want to make this one a short bed so I am going to keep my eye out for a used bed assembly to work with. I may cut the existing bed down to turn it into a short bed if I can't find a good deal on a short bed setup.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Great work and thanks for the motivation to resurrect my 67 C-10.

The cab was so rusted out and damaged that I cut it up a few years ago and turned it into a truck bed trailer. I found a clean 67 cab and truck arm frame that I can pick up for about $300 this weekend and it got me thinking about putting it back together with a better cab (and an intact frame).

I still have all the parts I took off the rusty C-10 so I can put the better cab and intact frame together pretty easily.

I want to make this one a short bed so I am going to keep my eye out for a used bed assembly to work with. I may cut the existing bed down to turn it into a short bed if I can't find a good deal on a short bed setup.

sounds cool, check out my other build thread "no buck"

[cstm68]

why did you weld the control arms ??

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by cstm68

why did you weld the control arms ??

huh?

[Ackattack]

oh....I thought you were talking about this week's progress

I welded them in hopes of making them stronger....less flex. I'm not sure how much it helped, but figure it can't hurt.

[cstm68]

oh ok thanx

i thoght you were going all out and smoothing the suspention!!

[Ackattack]

Well I got the axles installed with the brake rotors....I used the Summit drilled and slotted ones. I did not have to have them machined like I thought I was going to have to.



Then I put the wheels on it to finally make it a roller!



that lasted for about 10 min...no longer a roller

I tore the front suspension back apart to replace the crappy ball joints. I went to put in the new moog ball joint and now the hole in the lower control arm is too big!!!! So now i don't know what I'm going to do. Probably pull a lower control arm off the parts truck...damn it...I had sand blasting!

[Dahawk]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Well I got the axles installed with the brake rotors....I used the Summit drilled and slotted ones. I did not have to have them machined like I thought I was going to have to.



Then I put the wheels on it to finally make it a roller!



that lasted for about 10 min...no longer a roller

I tore the front suspension back apart to replace the crappy ball joints. I went to put in the new moog ball joint and now the hole in the lower control arm is too big!!!! So now i don't know what I'm going to do. Probably pull a lower control arm off the parts truck...damn it...I had sand blasting!

What set up did you use for the rear brake set up. Everything please

[gringoloco]

Moog has 'Problem Solver' lower balljoints that are oversized for this exact scenario...

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Moog has 'Problem Solver' lower balljoints that are oversized for this exact scenario...

I welded mine in years back , nobody said anything about "Problem solver"
Oh well the guy who bought it is the guy who told me to weld them .
He can't complain about the PO on that issue .

[Ackattack]

Well over christmas break I've made a little progress. The main work has been on my 72 GMC, so I'll just show a quick before and after

Before:



After:



On the 68, I finally got a lower control arm. DHL only took an extra week to deliver it! (little ticked about that, but what can you do) I got it taken apart, and hopefully I'll sand blast and paint it tommorrow.

I pulled the steering componenets off of my parts truck, so I need to get new tie rod ends ordered here ASAP.

I moved the "new" cab into the garage with the help of some friends:


And then proceeded to remove the drivers side rocker panel.


Looks like I'll be needing inner and outer rocker panels, cab corners, floor pan, kick panels, lower a-pillar, and cab supports (pretty much everything right??? At least on the drivers side. I assume the passenger side will be the same.

I then removed all of the crap that won't be needed, like the heating componenets, radio, wiring, etc.





So I have some work to do

[68 short step]

common problem, moog has the fix tho..

[Ackattack]

No pics for today, but I got the new upper ball joints installed, and I began to get the holes drilled for the rear air bags. But again the drill is acting up. I actually think its the charger....I'll have to use my buddies, who has the same drill to see if its the battery, charger, or drill.

I also ordered a new oversized lower ball joint. Hopefully it will solve the problem.

[poncho_villa]

Well......It's been almost a month now!.....Any new progress??