1952 Project 1433

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

V=Flint MI engine plant
09=Sept
09=9th day
TWZ=1978 350, conv.cab truck, L LS9, 165 HP, 4 barrel carb, K-10 to 2500

(from: http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-cod...s-suffix-8.php)

Wow that's awesome!!!!

[NeoJuice]

Question: What is the optimal width a rear end should be to run 18-20" wheels? Will this transAm/Camero rear end be to wide?

[jkeating1]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Question: What is the optimal width a rear end should be to run 18-20" wheels? Will this transAm/Camero rear end be to wide?

I'll weigh in on this, but hopefully you'll get some first-hand information from some guys running this combination.

That axle is supposed to be 62.5" hub face-to-hub face. If I remember right, you need 50" between the tires to clear the outside walls of the bed. It would seem like if your wheels had 5" backspacing, your tires would clear the bed by 1.25" (less the amount the sidewall balloons out). If you didn't go nuts on the width of the tires, they should fit.

All that to say that I think that axle will work fine.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Question: What is the optimal width a rear end should be to run 18-20" wheels? Will this transAm/Camero rear end be to wide?

It really depends on the wheel width, back spacing and tire size. My wheels are either 20x8.5 or 20x9 with 4.75" back spacing, I can't remember. My axle is 61.5" wide and it sits perfectly between the fender and bedside.

Basically it's best to measure, if you plan to go really low it all changes due to the curve of the fender.

Here's a bunch of good info about measuring for wheels http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=530806

[NeoJuice]

Thanks jweb and jkeating1 for the information. I will measure the rear diff and see what the actual measurements are. I'm a couple months away from ordering new rims and tires.

[NeoJuice]

Little update from the weekend.

I got the "Cab to Frame Mount Kit" and "Stepside Bed to frame mounting kit" and got them installed this weekend. Also vacuumed and cleaned out the cab from all the mouse **** and other stuff. Swapped around the front control arm bolts and tightened everything up because it was loose.

This was a before picture of one of the rear mounts. I thought I took an "after" pictures.



I also fixed the battery box cover so it actually locks properly.



Also can someone tell me what the big bar is going across the middle of the cab frame? I want to remove it because I cant get at the front box mounting bolts. The hole is to small to get my fingers in there and get the nut on there. If I removed the bar the access hole will be a lot bigger.

I couldn't find any information online about it. I took out the bolt and loosened the steel washer ring behind it but the b*tch wont come off. I smacked it with a hammer and broke it loose a little but it's not budging. Probably have to torch it off or use my sawsall.




Also had a little time to go to Mopac and get a carb rebuild kit and gasket set for the 350. Going to try and get the manifold swap done soon.

Still have to figure out what I'm going to do with that rear end.

[wolffcub]

That bar is for the stock ebrake. If you not planning on using it please let me know as im looking for one.

[wolffcub]

Stick something like a wide screwdriver in the top of the clamp V area and pound it in to spread it open. They will then slide off the ends of the bar. After they are off you just have to slide the bar to one side first so one end drops out then angle it down and slide it out the other way.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by wolffcub

That bar is for the stock ebrake. If you not planning on using it please let me know as im looking for one.

Hmmmm... I couldn't find any documentation online on what it was used for. I know just behind the bar further back is the e-brake brackets on either side of the frame.

Anyone have any documentation on how it's hooked up? I have the original floor pedal and release rod in the cab and it works I was hoping to hook up new e-brake cables to the stock pedal when I get to that point.

[wolffcub]

The foot pedal in the cab connects to a tab on the drivers side of that bar. The clamps at the ends of the bar then go to the rear wheels.

[wolffcub]

I have a factory assembly book at home and I will snap you a picture after work.

[jweb]

Here's 1 photo of the e brake

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

Here's 1 photo of the e brake

Thanks jweb. What are you using for ebrake setup?

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

Thanks jweb. What are you using for ebrake setup?

I don't have one. I cut all of that out when I took my frame to get blasted. When it came time for re-assembly I realized I screwed up.

I will say I don't think I need one, I have a very steep driveway and my truck doesn't move when it's in park, but you may be required to have one where you live.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

I don't have one. I cut all of that out when I took my frame to get blasted. When it came time for re-assembly I realized I screwed up.

I will say I don't think I need one, I have a very steep driveway and my truck doesn't move when it's in park, but you may be required to have one where you live.

I believe it's required where I live. Probably won't pass inspection without it.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by NeoJuice

I believe it's required where I live. Probably won't pass inspection without it.

You can use these cables from that bar to the back
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/ebr...rakecable.html

You may be able to find the pedal and linkage for the front section used. The other option is using a Lokar pedal.

It looks like you can buy the linkage new:
http://www.classicparts.com/1947-54-.../#.WNEzLNIrKM8

[NeoJuice]

I thought I would give TCI a call today to see if they would help me source some parts. Here is what I found out. The guy I talked to was a little hesitant to give up the information. I still don't know what kind of calipers or brake pads are on the front.

Front Shocks - 75-78 ford mustang or ford Pinto
Rear Shocks - 80-82 Corvette
Front Break Lines - late 70s Chevelle, el camino or malibu.

I also found online possibly the rear calipers I need w/shoes & springs

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Emerge...pers,1968.html

Does anyone have any other information on the TCI front end?

[jweb]

Most of the Mustang II suspensions with 11" rotors use a gm metric caliper. Since TCI mentions that their suspension includes GM big bore calipers, I would assume it would be like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...5003/overview/

Those are the calipers I have. I don't have TCI's front end but I would think yours are the same.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by jweb

Most of the Mustang II suspensions with 11" rotors use a gm metric caliper. Since TCI mentions that their suspension includes GM big bore calipers, I would assume it would be like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...5003/overview/

Those are the calipers I have. I don't have TCI's front end but I would think yours are the same.

Thanks JWeb. Great information as usual.

Last night I tried to get the rear rotors off the rear end. I worked at it for over and hour and they wont come off.

I tried hitting them with a regular hammer, a machinist hammer with the point, my sledge hammer and they wont come off. So I hit the old YouTube and tried the bolt trick, but all that did was bend and pushed the rear backing plate out of the way so that didn't work.

Next thing I'm going to try is use a 6" Gear puller on it like below. If they don't come off LOL i'm not sure what I'm going to do.

[wolffcub]

some rotors are held on with a tapered head screw between the studs. What were you using for the bolt removal idea? how could you bend the backing plate when the bolt technique is supposed to push up against the axle face?

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by wolffcub

some rotors are held on with a tapered head screw between the studs. What were you using for the bolt removal idea? how could you bend the backing plate when the bolt technique is supposed to push up against the axle face?

This is the technique I used for the bolt technique.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMuHKDI00rw

As you can see in the picture below, the backing plate is pretty flimsy. I didn't use the caliper bolt you can see in the picture but there is another one behind the rotor I tried to use. The picture was taken the other day before my hammer did some real damage LOL.



I'm going to try the puller method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IQ8Hf2UiAE

[NeoJuice]

Here is a small weekend update.

-Got the rear rotors off the truck. Even after soaking the sh*t out of them with penetration fluid the night before, I'll tell you it's a good thing I bought that 6" puller. Even with the puller when it started to get tight I had to use a snipe on the wrench. I honestly thought I was going to snap both of the rotors in half it was that bad and rusted.


-Firmly secured the B&M shifter to the floor inside the cab. I got the B&M shift bracket installed on the side of the transmission. Then when I went to install the cable bracket to the pan, I found out I didnt have the correct size alan key. So that ended that mission for now. The previous owner built this whole engine with alan key bolts!!!!

-Pulled the distributor and valve covers off and the fuel lines/log off the firewall. Then I checked with my oil pump priming tool & drill to see if there is any oil pressue. My oil pressure guage was reading about 50psi so I have good oil pressure and good amount of oil coming out of lifters. See the thing is, I bought the truck with the assumption that there was only a couple minutes of runtime and that it was a fresh rebuild. I wanted to see if there was oil pressure there because who knows when the last time the motor was actually running and I didnt want to have a dry start when the time comes.


-After pulling the distributor I pulled off the cap to check to see if it had points or been changed to electronic ignition and it was suprisingly. The PO didnt say anything about that. So now I have to decide if I get a whole new distributor or if I should just get a new cap, rotor and coil. The thing is for $139 I can get a whole new distributor. Buying the parts will probably cost me the same amount. I also couldnt find any referance on the pertronix website of the
34AD-v5 parts so that might be a good indication to get a new distributor.




-Hopefully this week I can get the rad drained and get the manifold taken off. I'm then going to swap on the holley manifold and get started on rebuilding the carb. I'm not sure how I'm going to do that as of yet, I was going to remove the automatic choke and take it to a shop and have it dipped to get it all cleaned up. What do you suggest?

That's all the update I have for now.

[NeoJuice]

Weekend update.

-First thing was to get the rad drained. Removed the top hose and temp probe from manifold. Started to remove all the bolts then found I also needed to remove the oil pressure sending unit because I couldn’t get to the rear last bolt on the manifold driver side.



Tri-Power setup has been sold.



-Next step was to get everything cleaned up and ready for the Holley street dominator manifold. We did some test fitting first before getting the new gaskets on and everything in place. Good thing we did this because the bolts that we used for the TRI-Power manifold won’t work on the middle manifold holes on either side. Either this is a ****ty designed manifold or I need to get new bolts that will work properly. As mentioned before everything was bolted together with hex/allen key bolts.




-I travelled down south on sunday 4-2-2017 and bought a nice bench seat out of a 1950 chevy pickup that was in damm good shape from a guy. Only one slit on the bottom of the bench seat. Also came with the frame & sliders. So that will be going in the truck once I get it all cleaned up & picked it up for $100. Down the road it will be get redone.



Thats all for now. I'm either going to get new bolts for the holly dominator or pickup a edelbrock manifold. I'll get that figured out this week.

[ptc]

You are probably not going to get a good Mallory or MSD distributor for $100 and most likely that $100 distributor is a cheap chinese knock off that will give you worlds of trouble. You should check out new parts for that Mallory one you have, why change it to Pertronix? probably just a cap and rotor is all it needs. They last forever.

Nice project you got going here.

[NeoJuice]

Originally Posted by ptc

You are probably not going to get a good Mallory or MSD distributor for $100 and most likely that $100 distributor is a cheap chinese knock off that will give you worlds of trouble. You should check out new parts for that Mallory one you have, why change it to Pertronix? probably just a cap and rotor is all it needs. They last forever.

Nice project you got going here.

I'm going to price out what the replacement parts would cost to get a new rotor, cap and coil. Depending on that cost I might get a new MSD. I don't really want to deal with an external coil.

It was switched from points to Pertronix electronic ignition at some point in time and since MSD purchased Mallory. Who knows how long parts are going to be available for.

Thank you, the project is coming along slowly.