New motor won't crank, don't know what else to do

[Sodell]

There is no preset #1, but because of the way you have to plug the dizzy up, you have to point those plugs almost towards the drivers side fender. Then when you sett the timing you have room to move it back and forth.

Here is my 87 HEI, dizzy. The cleaner wire is #1, and you can see where the dizzy is pointed. If you mark the base of your dizzy near where that #1 is, and then put the dizzy back in lining up the rotor to the #1 you have marked you will be fine. if it is off jut a smidgen you can move the dizzy to line up the mark with the rotor tip.

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[Sodell]

You can mark any of them as #1, but you have to have enough room to move it some back and forth. Once you find TDC, mark the distro where it will fit best,but most of them plug in on the drivers side.

[UATahoe]

So locate tdc by bumping the starter, align timing marks, then remove the distributor, while the distributor is out rotate the rotor so it points in the general direction i want for the number one plug (taking into account the rotor will turn slightly as it meshes with the camshaft), then set the distributor back in place, rotate crankshaft clockwise until distributor engages and slides over oil pump shaft then rotate counter clockwise back to timing marks, then install the rotor cap and mark on the distributor body the position of the number one plug, remove cap and turn distributor body so the rotor is lined up with the mark i made on the body.

Does that sound right?
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[Sodell]

Your almost there, DO NOT move the crank after it is at TDC. You put dizzy in. If the dizzy wont seat take it out and move the oil pump shaft with a large screw driver, if you look down the hole with a light you will see the shaft and were the bottom of the dizzy goes. when you put the dizzy back in leave the cap off and you will see the rotor move as the gears mesh.


Also put the cap on before you put it back in and mark it with a marker, and then take cap off, so once you put it in you are trying to get it very close to that mark. Then once it is seated turn it to line up mark with rotor tip. Then tighten a little to keep it from moving, you will have to set the timing once the engine is running.

[UATahoe]

That's how I did it initially using the engine priming tool to rotate the oil pump shaft. I was actually just going by the video you posted earlier though. That's how he got the distributor to go all the way down. He actually turned the crank slightly then turned it back.
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[Sodell]

Sorry did not notice, don't move the crank.

[Rufton]

First I'd get your starter sorted; verify correct model for engine and flywheel tooth count.
Then I'd rotate crank till #1 piston TDC (end of compression stroke).
Then get your dist sorted.
Take a good look at your dist hold down; it should be firm w/o over tightening hold down bolt.
Goal is to stab dist so you have room to rotate for proper setting w/o interference; if it won't rotate enough you need to pull and re-stab at another tooth.
If it is free to rotate 360 degrees then you could stab it anywhere; typically firewall etc limits where dist can be stabbed.

[UATahoe]

Got it. That part is a pain in the ass but right now all of it is so whats one more. Lol. Maybe I will get it figured out.
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[UATahoe]

Good points Rufton. On the starter, the pinion shaft gear shouldn't stay meshed with the flywheel after the truck is cut off right? That's what mine did which is why I think I need another spacer or too to get it further away from the flywheel.
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[UATahoe]

The starter has the offset bolt pattern and the Flexplate is a 168 tooth plate. Was told the offset bolt pattern was for the 168 tooth flywheel.
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[Rufton]

[QUOTE=UATahoe;6137537] On the starter, the pinion shaft gear shouldn't stay meshed with the flywheel after the truck is cut off right?/QUOTE]

That's a good question.
I could see new gears hanging if engine doesn't start then releasing if crank turned; I don't know if normal.
Any evidence of gear tooth top land crown binding gear bottom land valley?

[UATahoe]

To show my mechanical knowledge here, I have no idea what that means. I looked at the teeth to if they were wearing. I did see some marks. I will look again and try to see what it looks like.
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[Rufton]

Just look for evidence of contact like shinny parts of teeth. Gears typically contact midway from top of tooth to bottom of tooth. If gears are too distant teeth tops can break. If gears mesh too tight they can bind and cause destruction.

One gear's tooth top should not touch it's mates valley.

Can brush white lithium grease on gears and see contact pattern; may be difficult to see on starter though.

Can experiment w/ and w/o shims for evidence of binding.

Perhaps some gear head has a better test for starter gears?

[UATahoe]

Oh ok. I'm tracking now. Installed with no shims, it would bind and not turn the Flexplate. Would basically bind and lock up. The three shims have helped but I still think it could be a little better. It doesn't make any noise when trying to start though and turns the Flexplate freely. Definitely need to check the teeth though.
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[franken]

Ask yourself a few basic questions.
1. Is the engine spinning at a reasonable rate by the starter or too slow?
2. Are you getting spark?
3. Do you see fuel from the accelerator pump when you work the gas by hand?
4. Is it backfiring out the exhaust?

1. No means a probable wiring problem. Check grounds. The starter has 2 circuits. Click or no crank and slow crank.
2. No means fix the ignition.
3. No means fix the fuel system.
4. Yes suggests timing 180 out. No suggests #2.

Have to look at the problem, not just say it's fubar...

The starter circuit turns the engine.
The ignition circuit makes spark.
The fuel system provides er, fuel.

All parts have to work, but usually only one is not working. Break the problem into smaller parts and it's easier to solve...

[Rufton]

Originally Posted by UATahoe

Oh ok. I'm tracking now. Installed with no shims, it would bind and not turn the Flexplate. Would basically bind and lock up. The three shims have helped but I still think it could be a little better. It doesn't make any noise when trying to start though and turns the Flexplate freely. Definitely need to check the teeth though.
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I didn't realize you had a confirmed bind. Chances are you need more shims or somehow got wrong starter gear.

[UATahoe]

It's the right starter for the truck year but not sure about the motor. Not sure what year core was used to build the 383.

I did verify spark so I am good there. I guess I just need to start trying to chip away at the issues. I am pretty sure the starter is the right one. I shot a question to the engine builder asking so should hear back on that soon to verify.
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[UATahoe]

I did have an exciting ball of fire come out of the passenger side header one time. And then another one on the drivers side on a different attempt to start. I was turning the distributor as we were trying to crank both times.
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[Sodell]

Originally Posted by UATahoe

I did have an exciting ball of fire come out of the passenger side header one time. And then another one on the drivers side on a different attempt to start. I was turning the distributor as we were trying to crank both times.
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Your getting spark, just have to get that dizzy set up right. You'll get it going...

[Jonboy]

On the distributor you are using, mark the spot where the #1 plug will go on the body, then make sure the smaller plug is facing between the 1:00 and 2:00 position, so the wires for the coil do not bind as you rotate it. Just a little lesson I learned. I say calm down, take a deep breath or two, find TDC on #1, pick the distributor up a little bit, rotate it to where it needs to go, and pop it off. It seems to me you are over thinking it. I can see it, because I do the same thing. It looks like you are really close. When you go to set the base timing, disconnect the tan wire, set it to 0, reconnect and go. If you start with a clear head this morning, you should be able to tackle this.

[UATahoe]

You nailed it Jonboy. Just got frustrated yesterday and started questioning myself and trying to push too hard I think. I always over think things and I know I am making this too hard. Gonna give it another shot today
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[UATahoe]

Found tdc. As the distributor sits right now, the small plug is at about the 2 or 3 o'clock position. The rotor button is pointing pretty much directly at the drivers seat and it lines up perfectly with the terminal on the rotor cap.

I didn't remove the distributor though. Just found tdc, rotated the distributor so the plugs were oriented in a favorable manner. At that point the rotor lined up perfectly with the terminal on the cap. Should I still remove the distributor or should I be good?
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[UATahoe]

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[UATahoe]

Here is a picture of the plug location.




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[UATahoe]

Ok, tried to fire it up. It started to turn over and almost cranked but then stopped. Now it won't catch again. But it definitely almost started up. Suggestions?
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