1972 K10 Disabled Veteran First Build

[0311Chevy8152]

Made some more progress. I wish I had done this before so I knew what I was doing. As for right now I close my eyes and start wrenching on the first thing I touch. To any other first timers like myself you are going to need a tool for removing the windshield wiper arm and a pitman arm remover. If any senior builders wouldn't mind taking the time a list of specialty tools needed for disassembly would be really helpful.

[Bladeboy1998]

That is a great idea! Any special tools needed to do a full restore on these rigs!

[swamp rat]

i have the $9.99 handle wiper arm removal tool like the one on the right from Autozone, most auto parts stores have a similar tool, i hear the snap on one works well too.

https://store.snapon.com/Window-and-...m-P636287.aspx

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...wiper-arm-tool

Last time i pulled my pitman arm i removed the retainer bolt ( must be fully removed ) and then tapped in a cold chisel to open it up just a little then tapped it off the shaft. again most auto parts stores carry a pitman arm puller, NAPA for sure.

Per your fenders, the replacement corner is available for the battery side but not the driver side last time i checked, maybe things have changed since?
The most successful fender cup replacements i have seen was to cut the fender straight across that body line and do the same with the replacement cup. Or this guy did his about 1" below the body line. If you need a cup on the passanger side i'd keep my eye open for one on the parts board, maybe the fender is damaged but the cup is salvageable and the seller could cut the cup off, that or post a wanted to buy thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=434

Are you doing Ball joints? tie rod ends? you can rent these tools from most auto parts stores, i bought a ball joint press from Harbor Freight, i bought a tie rod remover (pickle fork) off a snap on truck.

Nice progress so far!

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

i have the $9.99 handle wiper arm removal tool like the one on the right from Autozone, most auto parts stores have a similar tool, i hear the snap on one works well too.

https://store.snapon.com/Window-and-...m-P636287.aspx

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-an...wiper-arm-tool

Last time i pulled my pitman arm i removed the retainer bolt ( must be fully removed ) and then tapped in a cold chisel to open it up just a little then tapped it off the shaft. again most auto parts stores carry a pitman arm puller, NAPA for sure.

Per your fenders, the replacement corner is available for the battery side but not the driver side last time i checked, maybe things have changed since?
The most successful fender cup replacements i have seen was to cut the fender straight across that body line and do the same with the replacement cup. Or this guy did his about 1" below the body line. If you need a cup on the passanger side i'd keep my eye open for one on the parts board, maybe the fender is damaged but the cup is salvageable and the seller could cut the cup off, that or post a wanted to buy thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=434

Are you doing Ball joints? tie rod ends? you can rent these tools from most auto parts stores, i bought a ball joint press from Harbor Freight, i bought a tie rod remover (pickle fork) off a snap on truck.

Nice progress so far!

Thank you for the advice and referrals. Unless there is a very significant reason for me to worry about the front fenders I plan on hiding it with a custom bumper. I do plan on taking everything apart and then have a shop go through everything and say what is ok or what needs to be replaced.

[0311Chevy8152]

I have a mystery I'm trying to solve. I was following the example given for removing the vent window when I came across a screw located just below the window. The screw goes through the door from the inside of the door to the inside of the outer shell of the door. This is on my drivers door. The passenger side door looks normal or at least like what other 72 doors look like. Is this door from a different year? Something a previous owner did? Your help is greatly appreciated as always. There is a bar as well that seems to prevent me from removing the vent window that the screw went through.

[Bladeboy1998]

I thought that hole is what made the doors 72 specific, could be wrong.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Bladeboy1998

I thought that hole is what made the doors 72 specific, could be wrong.

Maybe, I'm going off a thread in the forum that has pictures of a truck without the hole but I'm not sure what year it is. My passenger side definitely does not have it. But I did notice the passenger side at the top on the exterior of the door has two small holes that look like a mirror can attach to. The driver side door does not.

[Bladeboy1998]

Culd the pass. Door have been replaced? I know there are little peep mirrors that go on the top of the door, or there is the mirrors that straddle the whole window, they attach at the top and the bottom of the window. I bet the pass door is a 67-71 door and the driver is original.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Bladeboy1998

Culd the pass. Door have been replaced? I know there are little peep mirrors that go on the top of the door, or there is the mirrors that straddle the whole window, they attach at the top and the bottom of the window. I bet the pass door is a 67-71 door and the driver is original.

Very well could be. I have no way of knowing other than figuring out what it should be. If the driver side is the correct door, I guess either way, I need to figure out how to remove the vent window before I break something. It looked like it was going to be a piece of cake from looking at the directions.

[Bladeboy1998]

It always looks easier than it really is. But you have done so well on the rest, I doubt it will be too bad.

[88Ironduke]

I hated taking my doors apart for welding. Between the forward window channel, real channel, the tracks and my lack of all knowledge.. Well it sucked as much as I thought... Grrrr what part comes out first... Patience. Good looking build. From one GI to another, thanks for leading the way.

Paul

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by 88Ironduke

I hated taking my doors apart for welding. Between the forward window channel, real channel, the tracks and my lack of all knowledge.. Well it sucked as much as I thought... Grrrr what part comes out first... Patience. Good looking build. From one GI to another, thanks for leading the way.

Paul

Paul, thank you for saying hi. It's great to see all of the veterans on this forum. It really is encouraging and motivating.

I just watched a video on YouTube I believe from someone on this forum. He was working on a 72 k25 and his passenger side door had the hole like my driver side does. So I am going with the opinion my passenger side door is not a 72. Should I look for a 72 door? Do I have a door someone else might need? This is all starting to become very philosophical.

[0311Chevy8152]

I was able to figure out the window. I had to take out the main glass first and then everything else came out nice and easy. But I did find some rust damage on the bottom corner of the door. What am I looking at for fixing it I wonder?

[swamp rat]

Yes that screw was added in 72, the other year doors had a tendancy to seperate or bend apart in that area so GM devised that as a solution to keep the spacing consistant, somebody here figured out a way to dimple one of his replacement doors and add the screw, don't remember who or how. The screws and the tube spacer have just started being reproduced, before that a clever mod was to use a piece of brake line and flair it, a replacement screw was obtained at a local hardware store.

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Yes that screw was added in 72, the other year doors had a tendancy to seperate or bend apart in that area so GM devised that as a solution to keep the spacing consistant, somebody here figured out a way to dimple one of his replacement doors and add the screw, don't remember who or how. The screws and the tube spacer have just started being reproduced, before that a clever mod was to use a piece of brake line and flair it, a replacement screw was obtained at a local hardware store.

Thank you for clarifying. Should I watch the other door and see if it becomes an issue or try to match it to the drivers door? My goal is to build a bullet proof truck that can take whatever I throw at it and last for a long time but I want to also keep and add as much value to it as possible.

[swamp rat]

Should you look for another 72 door? that's a matter of how accurate you want the truck to be, and the money you want to spend, enthusiasts will notice it, heres a couple threads on it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...door+screw+mod

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...door+screw+mod

[0311Chevy8152]

Received the books today. Looks like they will be a great help.

So far all the numbers are matching.

[Tylerz181500]

liking this build its very similar to what im aiming for

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Tylerz181500

liking this build its very similar to what im aiming for

Cool hopefully we can learn from each other and share ideas.

[Tylerz181500]

hopefully! the body on yours is alot nicer than mine so far though lol. ill be going crossover, hydro assist, and b52s, getting rid of the body lift and so on. i just want to drive it as it sits for the moment and then shell get torn apart when money allows. Ill be following along!

[0311Chevy8152]

Made some more progress. It's interesting to see 40 plus years of people messing with stuff. Glad it only had two previous owners or who knows what else I would find.

[Ozzy2013]

Welcome and thank you for your service !If i can be of any assistance give me a shout .Im no pro but am an old dog who has been wrenching for 40+ years .

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by Ozzy2013

Welcome and thank you for your service !If i can be of any assistance give me a shout .Im no pro but am an old dog who has been wrenching for 40+ years .

Hi Ozzy thank you for offering your assistance. I am sure I am going to need it. Anything I should think of or watch out for as I continue to disassemble the truck?

[88Ironduke]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

Hi Ozzy thank you for offering your assistance. I am sure I am going to need it. Anything I should think of or watch out for as I continue to disassemble the truck?

Take your time in the disassembly phase. Bag and label parts/hardware as you take them apart. Pictures can a be a huge help when putting something back together that's been apart for 6 months or longer. You can't beat the satisfaction of a car or truck build, hearing it run and then the first trip out!

Paul

[0311Chevy8152]

The previous owner had a large tach mounted on the drivers side pillar next to the windshield. Is it correct to drill out the rivets?