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06-11-2012, 09:14 AM | #1 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Worked on the new automatic steering column (red photo). Stripped the column and repaired the steering wheel cracks. Used a dremel tool to cut the cracks open wider and filled them with JB weld. Then ground them and sanded. Most of the cracks on the outer wheel were originating from the original holes on the backside. I filled the holes at the same time. Primed and then painted the parts. They should have been factory charcoal gray, but it turned out more like a medium gray. I didn't bother doing the clear coat. I'm headed to the paint store to see if it was mixed correctly or if I have the wrong paint code.
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06-11-2012, 12:58 PM | #2 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
I started it this weekend! Nice to hear it run after 4 months. I still need to finish wiring, gauges, steering column, transmission linkage, bleed brakes, and a bunch of smaller stuff.
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06-12-2012, 12:08 PM | #3 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Went back to the paint store to see what could be done about the wrong charcoal paint. This store just had a fire and lost all of the old paint books that they used to come up with this number. He mixed another test sample to make sure that it was not just mixed wrong, and it was the same. Now I posted a WTB for a piece of steel that has that original charcoal color to take in for a paint match. My dash has been repainted with a metallic charcoal, but I don't think metallic was original. So I can't use that for a match. I'll probably install the steering column as is and deal with it when I paint the entire interior back to the original charcoal and silver.
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06-13-2012, 09:56 AM | #4 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
cool build ,that sucks when you can't get the right color match
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06-18-2012, 08:00 AM | #5 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Worked on the dash gauges. This is a homemade aluminum panel painted flat black with New Vintage USA gauges. I had to grind out the silver dash bezel slightly to fit the speedometer.
Also got the transmission linkage connected along with a new indicator on the column. The plastic now reads P-R-N-OD-D-L2-L1. The picture turned out poor with the glare on it. All of this is mounted on my mismatch painted column and steering wheel. |
06-18-2012, 11:20 AM | #6 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
nice work ! and a ton of it to!!
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06-18-2012, 12:59 PM | #7 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
I'm now in for some more work. I locked the engine up. Took it out for a short drive to get some fuel and an oil cooler line cracked. Lost all my oil in about 5 miles and by the time I noticed the engine sounding odd, it died. Sadly the oil pressude gauge was not connected in the engine bay yet. I'm now serching for a remanufacured 6.2 engine. When I started this, I was debating on replaceing the engine since it had 175,000 miles on it. The decision has been made for me!
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07-23-2012, 04:56 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Quote:
Thanks for leading me over here for the diesel install. I'd go this way if I could find a 5spd stick tranny for this motor. I just don't know of any. Does anyone? |
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07-24-2012, 07:55 AM | #9 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
I don't have much knowledge of manual transmissions options, but the rear of this engine is the same as any small block chevy. Surely there is a 5 speed that would work.
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06-18-2012, 05:34 PM | #10 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
sorry about your bad luck, the work looks very nice, good luck
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06-18-2012, 07:36 PM | #11 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
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06-19-2012, 08:44 AM | #12 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
that blow big time ..4100 for a long block ouch
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06-19-2012, 06:16 PM | #13 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Man, I'm sorry to hear that. 4100 is a lot of greenbacks.
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06-22-2012, 10:54 AM | #14 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
I might get my new engine at the end of next week. That's the soonest that it could arrive. I've been working on the gauge sender wiring and cleaning up the wiring in the engine bay. I have all the gauge wiring ready except for the tach. Since this is a diesel, it requires a mag sender facing the flexplate. I'll try to take the front clip off in one piece this weekend.
I also need to deal with the fuel fill tube. I trailered it to the gas station after the "incident" and the fuel went in very very slowly. Diesel tends to foam easy. I am going to remove the fill tube to start the diagnosis. It does have some flexible hose from the fill tube to the tank that might be the issue. It was adapted to use the 1980 fuel tank that came with the frame. |
06-25-2012, 09:17 AM | #15 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Removed the front clip. Took a picture since it showed the inner fenders, radiator, and fan modifications well.
Investigated the fuel fill problem. The current 1 3/8" stock fill tube connects to a flex hose and then to the 1 3/8" tank inlet. The flex has some sag that will cause diesel to pool. The air vent also sags causing pooling. I'll try to remove the sags and reinstall everything. I did look at the donor truck and its fuel fill tube is about 2". I'll try to live with this until after the burb is running and look at installing the donor tank and fill tube down the road. I almost bet that you need a larger (2") fill tube to make diesel flow without kicking off the nozel. |
06-25-2012, 01:06 PM | #16 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
I added a couple of pictures of the shifter indicator. I found that our shift indicators were used on several cars like nova and chevelle. Thus ShiftWorks makes an indicator lens that will work for a 700r4. I am missing the red indicator that is behind the lens. Any photo or leads on who would make it is appreciated.
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07-02-2012, 10:25 AM | #17 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
The engine is now out. It was a bear to work with a seized engine. Some things like the torque convertor and injection pump needed the engine turned and it won't! I'm still dealing with trying to find a remanufactured one or take this one into a local machine shop. Jasper kept delaying the original order. Now they say that they can take mine and rebuild it, but it will take 3 weeks.
It looks like rods 1 and 2 spun the bearing. Rods 3 and 4 also got hot. |
07-09-2012, 08:44 AM | #18 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
been watching this...
on your rad support, did you just move the vertical bars over? Did you change the top or lower mount at all?
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60 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=280904 61 crew build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=646830 63 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=336537 64 'burb build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=448681 65 'burb build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=590715 65 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=281955 |
07-09-2012, 08:59 AM | #19 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
The vertical bars we moved outward to make the space needed. I made 2 brackets for the bottom that held the factory rubber pads. You can see them in the first picture at the bottom corner of the radiator. The upper brackets were made by modifying the 1990 radiator brackets to bolt to the top of the 1960 radiator support. These modified brackets also hold the 1990 rubber pads. I also welded the radiator cover to these brackets. This hides the top of the radiator and gives you a nice tool shelf. The radiator cover is bent down and back to make a mount for the electric fan. So, the radiator is still only supported by the rubber pads from the donor truck.
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07-19-2012, 02:28 PM | #20 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Just received my injection pump and injectors back from being rebuilt by American Diesel Service. They have very quick service. I hope to pick up my short block and heads tomorrow from the machine shop.
Last edited by mikesacs; 08-14-2012 at 08:15 AM. |
07-30-2012, 08:27 AM | #21 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
The truck is now running! I have a big list of thing to fix, but we drove it about 150 miles this weekend to start breaking it in. I'm trying a youtube video below. My only worry is that the hot idle oil pressure is at 11 PSI. I expected it to be higher. It's at 38 PSI at 55 MPH. It drives great, quieter and much more power than my 62 p/u with a 400 small block.
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07-30-2012, 03:23 PM | #22 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
I stopped in at the machine shop that did my short block and asked about the oil pressure. He said that my bearing tolerances were within limits, but at the loose side of the limits. That's why my oil pressure is down to 11 PSI at hot idle. He said that it will be fine at that pressure but if I wanted to do anything, I could add Lucas oil additive, or a high volume oil pump. Both of those would increase the oil pressure.
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07-09-2012, 09:17 AM | #23 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
thanks for the info, I have one that is getting a bbc/auto transplant, and was thinking that it would be cheaper if I could make the big 73-87 rad fit in there.
do you think with this rad mod that I would have space for 1 battery if I cut a spot for it in the rh inner fender well?
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07-09-2012, 09:32 AM | #24 | |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Quote:
It is cheaper as long as you don't mind welding and grinding. I spent more time on the inner fenders and radiator support than the rest of the engine conversion. |
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07-13-2012, 11:45 AM | #25 |
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Re: Mike's 60 Suburban build
Installed the rear dome light and wired both dome lights up. The suburbans did not come with a rear dome light, but I thought it would be a good add to have one in the rear. It is a stock dome light mount from a 60-66 cab.
I should get my engine back from the machine shop next week. So I've just been doing a few small things like this until then. |
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