"Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis

[HUSSEY]

Here are some shots of the cab mounts with the cab bolted in place.





From the top of the frame to the bottom of the cab floor support measures 4 in.







I ran an 11 GA 2x1 rectangular tubing between the two rear cab mounts and bolted to the bottom of the floor.





Measurement for reference. The cab mount height was set to level the cab to the frame.







The front cab mounts bolt to the original front cab mount holes.



The rear cab mounts bolt to one of the original shackle bolt holes. The 2x1 cross bar uses three 3/8 bolts to bolt it to the bottom of the floor.

[HUSSEY]

…the cab and front clip on the frame.

[Advanced Design]

Nice work, looks really good.

[oldman3]

Doing some good work, and truck is looking great...Jim

[IWanna49]

Great step by step! Thanks for sharing!

[DeanTX]

Nice looking welds too.

[ADchevys]

Looking good, I like the way you did your rear cab mount.

[Cautrell05]

Can you share some more about your cab lifting fixture? What did you made it from?

[HUSSEY]

Thanks for all the compliments. As for the lifting fixture, it was built from 2x4s and 3 in. screws. Here's some additional pics of it. Nothing fancy but it worked well.

[Cautrell05]

Thanks for the pictures. That should be easy enough to build.

[Tikal48]

Great looking work! Your cab mounts really came out looking nice. Nice looking welds. You must still be able to see. LOL

I am impressed by your cab. It really looks solid! Cab corners and rear of cab looks in great shape.

Have you put any thought into where you are going to put the battery? The frame on mine goes right where the battery box used to be. So I sealed off the battery access hole. I'm sure that I will mount it somewhere in the engine compartment, but I want to keep that as clean looking as possible.

[HUSSEY]

Tikal48, I'm with you, I thought about putting it under the hood on the firewall but I want to minimize whats under the hood for a cleaner look. The other option is to put it somewhere under the bed, but with the way my exhaust is routed I don't really have a good spot. I think I'm going to put a sealed battery it in a plastic battery box behind the seat on the passengers side.

[Tikal48]

I was thinking of putting it behind the seat myself, but started reading some of the warnings on different forums. Now, I'm just undecided. I guess that I will leave that battle for another day.

Keep up the good work!

[HUSSEY]

Hmm...now you got me to thinking. After some reading, sealed batteries really aren't "sealed".

NHRA Section 8.1 Rules say: http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/G...egulations.pdf

All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated
into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-
inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required
when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery
may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or
NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear
firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented
outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or
frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts.
OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware
must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inchdiameter
bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.
(“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal
battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A
maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined
maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class
Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to
Class Requirements.

So given the in lieu of a rear firewall...I'm thinking something like this may work:
http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM424-Sea.../dp/B006VU5W92

Which is just like Jegs sells which is identified as NHRA approved:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10230/10002/-1

[HUSSEY]

I Drew up a set of plans for the cab mounts I came up with.





Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

[HUSSEY]

Before I got the cab back on I made up my transmission cross member. I picked up a cross member kit from Summit. The cross member is by Competition Engineering, P/N C3601. It has a 3.5 in. drop and is fairly stout made from 1-5/8 in. DOM tubing with a wall thickness of 0.134 in. I also picked up a new transmission mount, Energy Suspension, P/N 3-1108G.

I had to trim the thickness of the transmission mount a little to get it to fit into the saddle of the transmission cross member. I believe the saddle of the cross member is supposed to be welded flipped from what I have it but to get the right drop, I had to weld it on the way I have it.

I used some 3/16 in. angle to make the make the frame mounting ends of the cross member. I used my hole saw set to drill holes in the angle then passed the cross member tubing through it and welded it up. I drilled a couple holes on each end and bolted it to the frame. Because the frame isn’t flat where the cross member mounts, I also cut some spacer plates to fill the void. I’m somewhat confident on where my motor is position at but if I have to, I can remove the cross member and slot the mounting holes.

[joedoh]

thats a sweet solution for the crossmember!

[Advanced Design]

Nice work and nice welds. I like the curvature of the side mounts...a nice detail.

[HUSSEY]

Thanks, the cross-member is basically a $65 piece of bent tubing but it made the fabrication easy.

[Tikal48]

Interesting solution on the transmission cross member. I like it! I used one of the Transdapt universal cross members on mine, and the Energy Suspension transmission mount as well. I think that the urethane bushings and mounts are the way to go.

What drafting program are you using? Is that something you do for a living?

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Tikal48

Interesting solution on the transmission cross member. I like it! I used one of the Transdapt universal cross members on mine, and the Energy Suspension transmission mount as well. I think that the urethane bushings and mounts are the way to go.

What drafting program are you using? Is that something you do for a living?

I did the drawings in Microsoft Visio. It's not as sophisticated as CAD drafting programs but works well for simple 2D stuff. I work as an Engineer and use Viso once in a while but rarely have to do any drafting at work, technicians handle that much quicker and better than I could. I have a copy of DoubleCAD on my machine at home, a free version I found on the internet, that I'll use once in a while.

What do you use? I saw your 3D drawings of the latches in your post.

I've never used urethane mounts in anything else before, guessing they're just more firm and hold up better?

[Tikal48]

Great to hear that your in Engineering! The attention to detail shows in your truck! Mechanical?

I'm an Engineering supervisor in a pump manufacturing facility. I work with our Hydraulic Engineer designing single and multistage centrifugal pumps. I use Solidworks for the 3D modeling and drafting.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Tikal48

Great to hear that your in Engineering! The attention to detail shows in your truck! Mechanical?

I'm an Engineering supervisor in a pump manufacturing facility. I work with our Hydraulic Engineer designing single and multistage centrifugal pumps. I use Solidworks for the 3D modeling and drafting.

Yep, mechanical. I work for a company that's big in the energy industry (i.e. power plants), Black & Veatch. I'd bet we've bought from you. I don't do much "mechanical" design like you would. For the past couple of years I've worked in a section that specializes in boilers, heat recovery units, and associated equipment. I mostly do combustion and thermal analysis. I'll also work on piping or ducting systems and spec out equipment.

[HUSSEY]

I’ve started working on my front core support mounts. I did some final trimming on the inner fender wells. It was a little tedious, fit, trim, fit, trim, a little at a time. I was trying to keep the gaps and fit as tight and consistent as possible.

[HUSSEY]

I’d seen this method of attaching the core support in many other builds and I thought it worked out really well. I welded an 11 GA 2x1 in. rectangular tube between the front frame ends. Also, I attached two 11 GA 2x1 in. risers with supports attached to the top of the risers made out of 1/8 in. 2x2 in. angle.

On the bottom of the core support I welded a 3/16 in. 3x2 in. piece of angle with the 3 in. side on the horizontal. The bottom of the core support rests on the feet of the risers. To insulate it I used a couple large diameter rubber washers I found at the hardware store.

The radiator is from summit, P/N SUM-381324 and the fan is a Spal, P/N IX-30100400. The Spal fan was about the thinnest I could find at ~2.0 in.

I like how well the radiator ended up fitting in the core support; it almost has a factory look. If I had gone any lower with my body mounts the radiator would not have been able to be tucked into the core support the way it is, I would have had to further trim the top of the core support.

Some pictures are probably more descriptive…

Below, I trimmed down the channels to fit my 22 in. wide radiator. The bottom of the core support was cut to fit my radiator height, this also allowed for clearance with the steering gear box. There was also a little trimming to clear the radiator cap.



Below shows the 3/16 in. 3x2 in. angle welded in with the 3 in. side on the horizontal.









I installed some weather stripping foam from the hardware store to cushion the radiator. I also split some small vacuum line and put it on the bottom of the radiator and core support sides. The radiator simply sits down onto the lower 3x2 in. angle, I attached a piece of aluminum angle to keep it from sliding out. At the top, I used some small bolts and lock nuts to gently snug it up to the foam weather stripping.









For slitting the hose I found it was easiest to tape it to the bench.