47-55.1 '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!

[6DoF]

how do you like the Dakota digital stuff!?! i keep going back n forth between their 2 systems and if the better screen with better info display is worth it.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

Anyone ever used the Watts link from Speedway Motors?

truk does not have one, but we install them all the time on new mustangs
i think it's more "see what i bought" than actual need with that group
the watts link does keep the punkin centered vs pan hard that follows a rotation
typically watts link replaces the diff cover with a structural mount


your wiring: my fuse panel is spotless, not a wire out of loom or going to random location

however... under my console looks like this. i tried to keep it clean with loom and wire ties
but after: cruise control, remote entry/alarm, 2 door solenoids, door switch, 4 window relays,
2 window switches, stereo wired to 2 amps, 4 speakers, sub woofer, video screen, engine ecm,
trunk relay, tonneau cover relay, trunk/tonneau cover switch and probably a couple things i missed

there has to be an extra 100 wires in the console. yowza!

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

how do you like the Dakota digital stuff!?! i keep going back n forth between their 2 systems and if the better screen with better info display is worth it.

I love them. But I have been giving some thought to swapping them for a set of the new VHX series.

[mobileortho]

I nixed the Watts link idea and just repositioned the panhard.
I took it back apart to put on a coat of Por-15 and to have the 4 link brackets welded to the axle. That leads me to a question on welding costs. The shop that shortened the drive shaft for me said they would do it for $120 mig or it tig. I also checked with a mobile welder, he would charge $275, $55 of that would be the travel fee. That seems like a bit much just to weld two brackets ($275) or am I out of touch with welding charges?

[_Ogre]

better articulation of the panhard bar, well done
surprised you haven't learned to weld during this build
i paid similar for my driveshaft supplying the yoke, he supplied 2 u-joints and balanced it
it's not critical welding, it would be if you had all that force on a 2 inch weld,
but most of those brackets wrap the axle 4" or more, both sides of both brackets is 16" of weld

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

better articulation of the panhard bar, well done
surprised you haven't learned to weld during this build
i paid similar for my driveshaft supplying the yoke, he supplied 2 u-joints and balanced it
it's not critical welding, it would be if you had all that force on a 2 inch weld,
but most of those brackets wrap the axle 4" or more, both sides of both brackets is 16" of weld

I can stick two pieces of metal together, but for this I'd rather have someone with more experience weld it up. I don't want to have the rear end rolling past me on the street!

[mobileortho]

I got it welded up over the weekend, no pics yet. After looking over my running boards I decided to replace them rather than trying to fix them. I ordered a set from Rock Auto, made by Goodmark. They seemed to be ok but as with most aftermarket parts they aren’t perfect. One of the holes to the rear fender doesn’t line up and there’s a noticeable gap on the corner.

[mobileortho]

Ever so slowly...

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

I nixed the Watts link idea and just repositioned the panhard.
I took it back apart to put on a coat of Por-15 and to have the 4 link brackets welded to the axle. That leads me to a question on welding costs. The shop that shortened the drive shaft for me said they would do it for $120 mig or it tig. I also checked with a mobile welder, he would charge $275, $55 of that would be the travel fee. That seems like a bit much just to weld two brackets ($275) or am I out of touch with welding charges?

it's moments like this that i lean on to easily convince the wife i need more tools.

new panhard bar mount is a win and she's lookin good, keep after it.

[dsraven]

the thing with welding on the axle tubes anywhere is that it must be done in short welds allowing time to cool off between welding spurts. otherwise the axle tubes heat a bunch in one spot and that ends up causing warpage in the tube. once that happens the axle housing is basically toast because it costs more to straighten it than you can get another housing/axle for. the welders/shops SHOULD know this and I would advise asking them BEFORE they weld on your housing and I also advise checking the welds and the axle tubes afterwards to see if the welds were done as a continuous bead or in sections. if continuous then check the tubes for straight before emptying your wallet for them.
that's maybe why the costs are a tad higher than you might expect. it is time for the welder that is paid by the hour. a shop may be able to task the welder to another job, like 2 jobs going at once, so he can weld a piece, go to the other job while it cools, then come back. instead of driving to your house and waiting for the parts to cool between welds with no access to another job.
just my 2 cents

[joedoh]

looking good!

and the saying is goodMARK, poorFIT. but nobody will notice! I used rock auto floor pans before, better than making them!

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by joedoh

looking good!

and the saying is goodMARK, poorFIT. but nobody will notice! I used rock auto floor pans before, better than making them!

Thanks for the compliment Joedoh. This gap would be pretty noticeable. Hopefully I'll have some garage time this weekend to figure out how I want to address it.

[dsraven]

Slice it, mount it, add a pie shaped piece, carry on. easier than fixing the old part.

[mobileortho]

I had a piece of tube left over from the panhard bar I used to make 2 1/4 spacers for the coil overs. The bolts are 5/8 x6 grade 8. Wondering if I need to weld on some tabs for additional strength or am I overthinking this?

[6DoF]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

Wondering if I need to weld on some tabs for additional strength ...

yes plz!!

this is one of those better safe than sorry kinda moments. i'd not be worried about the bolt, it's the bracket that'll give out first. sure it'll drive fine without, but who knows when or where that extra twist might fatigue it n leave ya stranded.

[mobileortho]

Good point. Never considered an issue with the brackets.

[mobileortho]

That should do it.

[dsraven]

I would recommend is a plate on the frame to distribute the weight better so the coil over has better mounting support.
looks great

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I would recommend is a plate on the frame to distribute the weight better so the coil over has better mounting support.
looks great

Yep, had that already planned. I had washers between the mount and frame trying to gauge how much room I needed to keep the top of the shock from hitting the frame. Turned out to be about 1/2” and I had some spring perches that worked out perfectly.

[mobileortho]

Since I’ve got coilovers on the rear I’ve been thinking about doing the same up front. I see that CCP has a kit that uses the same Viking shocks I have on the rear. My only concern is the position of the sway bar. The way it’s mounted looks like it would hang too low. Thoughts?

[dsraven]

going back a couple pics, did you get a plate behind the upper coilover mount? just curious if you did a full suspension movement to ensure the coilover doesn't get too close to the frame when the panhard bar arcs and moves the axle over at full jounce or compression.
out front, I would say the end of the stabilizer bar is already on the low side so possibly a new shorter link could be made to eliminate the length and allow the bar to move closer. its always good to know the wheel and tire size for this because you don't want a sudden flat tire to allow the suspension parts to drag. it's law when I come from, dunno about there. nothing can hang lower than the bottom of the wheel rim. that means a tire could blow right off the wheel and you won't drag car parts as long as the wheel stays intact.

[dsraven]

also, check out the lower ball joint sealing boot. if left like it is the ball joint is going to fill with dirt and water real quick. possibly a spacer above to keep it pushed down onto the ball joint. possibly a spring?

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by dsraven

going back a couple pics, did you get a plate behind the upper coilover mount? just curious if you did a full suspension movement to ensure the coilover doesn't get too close to the frame when the panhard bar arcs and moves the axle over at full jounce or compression.
out front, I would say the end of the stabilizer bar is already on the low side so possibly a new shorter link could be made to eliminate the length and allow the bar to move closer. its always good to know the wheel and tire size for this because you don't want a sudden flat tire to allow the suspension parts to drag. it's law when I come from, dunno about there. nothing can hang lower than the bottom of the wheel rim. that means a tire could blow right off the wheel and you won't drag car parts as long as the wheel stays intact.

I did mount a 1/2” plate to the upper mount. It’s kinda hard to see i\on the pics. The pic with the sway bar is not my truck. That one is the vendor used in the advertisement. BUT, thanks for the suggestion on the spacer. I noticed that the boot on my setup is crushed as you mentioned and I was curious as too why. Then I noticed I had installed the spacer incorrectly.

I’m still on the fence about that sway bar location and you are also correct, I definitely don’t want it below the scrub line. I plan on switching from 17” to 18” rims up front. I’m going to do some measuring to see what kinda room I have to work with.

[bosco]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

Since I’ve got coilovers on the rear I’ve been thinking about doing the same up front. I see that CCP has a kit that uses the same Viking shocks I have on the rear. My only concern is the position of the sway bar. The way it’s mounted looks like it would hang too low. Thoughts?

I have the same way bar from CPP with 2" drop spindles on my '56. No issues with its position. Does not catch on anything. Should be okay with your setup. Truck is looking great.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by bosco

I have the same way bar from CPP with 2" drop spindles on my '56. No issues with its position. Does not catch on anything. Should be okay with your setup. Truck is looking great.

Thanks Bosco. What size rims are you running up front?