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#51 |
Senior Member
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Location: Loris South Carolina
Posts: 428
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Looking good, I need to reseal the drip rails over my doors, cut off the rail going over my windshield though and have slowly been welding the top back down ever since whenever I get a free moment. Can't wait to see more from you
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#52 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
Next up I'm hoping to get the front clip squared away and spray some paint while we have this nice, low humidity weather. |
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#53 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I sold an old car to our local grab & go today. While there, I wandered back to the two 68 trucks sitting in the back of their yard. I scored a sun visor for $5.66. The green will look a little weird in my red truck, but at that price it's better than the current one with the split seam and it's inside falling out.
Last edited by Roostre; 09-09-2020 at 03:25 PM. |
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#54 | |
Proprietor of Dale's Corner
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Location: Vacaville , CA
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
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"Some Days Chickens And Some Days Feathers" Dale XNGH ECV Sam Brannan 1004 R.I.P. 67ChevyRedneck R.I.P. Grumpy Old Man |
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#55 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
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#56 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
It has been a while since I've done anything to the old girl. We've been busy buying a new house, moving, and selling our old house. Today I brought my truck to the new house. Had to leave a calling card in the old shop. A little weak, but the truck hadn't run in a year! Three days on the battery charger and a shot of staring fluid and she fired right off.
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#57 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
It has been a while since I've updated this thread. In truth, the truck has been hibernating. We bought a new house, about 20 miles from our old place. Everything got moved, and the other place sold. The truck was packed up and stuck in one of the out buildings. We got through winter as I worked on cleaning out and setting up my new shop. It's not completely done; I need to paint. But the beautiful weather today must have inspired me to get the truck out, to heck with painting the shop!
A couple of hours on the battery charger, 2 mouse-chewed spark plug wires, and 2 mouse-chewed distributor wires later, and she fired right up. We did a quick spin down the lane and it was into the new shop. Now the cab will come off to replace the floor. Hopefully I will be able to push the frame and box out into another shed while I work on the cab. I'm looking forward to making progress again! Here's a picture of her in the new shop. |
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#58 |
Proprietor of Dale's Corner
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Nice!
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"Some Days Chickens And Some Days Feathers" Dale XNGH ECV Sam Brannan 1004 R.I.P. 67ChevyRedneck R.I.P. Grumpy Old Man |
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#59 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PNW
Posts: 3,587
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Nice truck, cool project. Great shop with a(t least one) neat window.
Last edited by LT7A; 03-29-2021 at 09:50 PM. |
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#60 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Thanks. Yes, I'm happy with the shop. There's 3 windows like that. Unfortunately they're getting rusty and leaking, so I think I'm going to have to replace them. The previous owners had a bunch of crap in there that I had to clean out before it was a usable space. What I really didn't understand is that they had shelving covering the windows. I also had to put in better lighting. Here's a picture of what it looked like from approximately the same angle. The toolbox, air compressor, and ladders I brought with me.
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#61 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 663
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Nice work on your truck and nice shop too!!!
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#62 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Thanks everyone! I hope there will be progress on the truck to share soon.
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#63 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PNW
Posts: 3,587
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Crazy to cover the window, unless it was a security issue. What's your shop square footage; it looks big.
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#64 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
I live just past the middle of no where, not much security issue! It is around 20' x 30'. I like my current set up better than my previous one because I have several other buildings to store stuff so my shop is just for the current project. My previous 40 x 40 was the only building I had so it was storage, workspace, and garage all in one. Also, the 20 x 30 is much easier to heat!
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#65 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Last night I stripped the paint off of my grill trim pieces. Then I worked the worst dents out of them and painted them with some rustoleum. The finish isn't great, but was cheap, easy, and will look ok on my driver. Unfortunately, I didn't think about before pictures until I was half way through straightening them. I really have to get better about that! I do have an after picture though.
The color is kind of an ivory off white. I'm going to do the grill trim, headlight bezels, and bumpers the same color. It will look better than the rusty bright white they are now. If I don't like it, I'm only out some time and can always repaint. Last edited by Roostre; 04-05-2021 at 09:49 AM. |
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#66 |
Proprietor of Dale's Corner
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Location: Vacaville , CA
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Looks good to me...
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"Some Days Chickens And Some Days Feathers" Dale XNGH ECV Sam Brannan 1004 R.I.P. 67ChevyRedneck R.I.P. Grumpy Old Man |
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#67 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
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#68 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PNW
Posts: 3,587
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
That's a very interesting idea. Sometimes with patina rigs, the mirrors, bumpers, and wheels get painted back to a factory white while the body keeps its bumps and bruises. I totally get squaring away some of those bolt on pieces to sharpen up the truck without spoiling the patina. But sometimes they end up looking brand new while the rest of the truck looks old. Using an ivory or off-white is an idea I hadn't thought of, that might true things up a little bit without making them stand out as much as a bright white. I will like to see your pictures on this.
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#69 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
I realized that I haven't updated the plan in a while, and this ties into it. I'm replacing a bunch of rust and fixing some road rash. The box on the truck is faded red paint. I like the look, so I've got some single stage satin red that I'm going to make the entire truck one color with. I think the off white trim will look really sharp with the color. So its not going to be a true patina or faux patina truck, but I think it will look ok. I'm also not a professional body man, so I don't want to spray super expensive product on the truck. Last edited by Roostre; 04-08-2021 at 09:38 PM. |
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#70 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Tonight I spent some time cleaning up my headlight bezels to paint them to match the grill trim. The bezels were rusting under the three layers of paint. I think someone probably primed and painted over the rust. As I stripped them, they look like they were chrome at one point. There were a couple of minor dents in the edge of one that I worked out after taking the paint layers off.
This time, I got before and during pictures. The first one is what they looked like before I started. You can see the edges of the grill trim in the picture to compare the color. The next picture is after I hit them with my air angle grinder with an 80 grit pad. I then went over them with 80 grit by hand. The next picture is after some 100 grit by hand. The final one is in primer. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have some pictures of the finished product. |
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#71 |
Proprietor of Dale's Corner
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Looking forward to the finished pics.
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"Some Days Chickens And Some Days Feathers" Dale XNGH ECV Sam Brannan 1004 R.I.P. 67ChevyRedneck R.I.P. Grumpy Old Man |
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#72 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: You're the only 10 I see
Posts: 367
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
How did you get the rear seam cut out without damaging the lower cab skin? Did you find a way to cut the spot welds on the "lips" that hold these 2 skins together? I am guessing you were not able to clamp the "lips" the hold the new skin and old rear skin together. You used the wood block to hold some pressure on it, and the clamps around the rest of the perimeter to keep a healthy pressure on this joint while the sealer set up?
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1972 C20 |
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#73 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
I had to think for a while about how to clamp the rear seam because I couldn't get to it. I ended up using 2 ratchet straps secured to the firewall and bed over the roof with a 4x4 board under them to put a little clamp load on the rear seam from the outside. I then squeezed a little more adhesive into anywhere I felt the seam wasn't filled adequately. This should work just fine. Remember that this is structural adhesive, so it's really strong. The outer roof skin just needs to be held in place and the seams sealed from water. If the rear seam isn't 100% strength of the seam sealer due to not being fully clamped, I really don't think it's a big deal. I used a bunch of vise grips with dowels in the drip rails around the sides and front of the panel. I'm sure these had enough clamping force to give the adhesive plenty of strength to hold the roof skin on. Another thing that is helpful is that the rear panel of the cab has kind of a double bend on the lip that helps align the roof skin and hold it in place. There was about an 1/8 inch gap between the roof and rear panel. I filled and sealed it with the adhesive, and will have to fill some voids with body filler. I could have probably worked with the two panels and made the seam much tighter, but didn't feel that it was worth it for the scope of this project. Sorry, I see you asked how to not damage the inner roof panel. If you cut about 1/2 inch away from the rear seam, there's about a 2 inch void between the roof panels, so my 3 inch cutoff wheel did just fine. You can kind of see it in the pictures of treating the rust on the inner panel. I also like using the same wheel to cut spot welds because you can see when you are getting close to the lower panel and can stop before cutting into it. Last edited by Roostre; 04-11-2021 at 10:28 PM. Reason: I still need to learn how to read. |
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#74 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: You're the only 10 I see
Posts: 367
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
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1972 C20 |
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#75 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: St. James, MN
Posts: 163
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Re: Roostre's 1967 C20
Quote:
Cliff's notes: The replacement roof panel had a slight twist to it. When I test-fitted it to the cab, if one corner was clamped down, the opposite corner would pop up a little. This wasn't a big deal and may well have been caused by the shipping damage, or even the cab being 50+ years old and not completely square. The rear seam gap wasn't consistent and anywhere from 0 to +3/16 inch wide. This could probably have been fixed through spot welding sequence while installing, but I didn't want to tear into the cab to spot weld that seam. All in all, this panel actually fit much better than the fender patch panels I've been using. Settle in, here's the whole story and my opinions: My truck is not going to be a show truck. It is going to be a driver that I use as a truck and have fun with. It is also a learning platform to figure out how to do rust repair. The end goal of it is to be something I pull up at the local trap range and the old farmers say that looks like a decent truck. From that standpoint, I don't need it perfect. I want the rust fixed, and understand that it will get dented and chipped up. That's OK, I'll just fix it again. I was replacing the seam sealer in the drip rails on my cab roof. Like many have had issue with, my sealer was dry and cracked and started to allow moisture under it. I caught it before it damaged the inner roof. As I was cleaning the rust out of the drip rails, I found some body filler above the passenger's side windshield. As I got into it, I realized it was 1/4+ inch thick, about 8 to 10 inches back from the windshield, and about half way across the roof, something must have hit it at some point. I didn't want to replace all of the body filler and risk it coming loose in the future, so I started thinking about a patch panel. I didn't really want to do the whole roof to begin with because I didn't want to deal with the rear seam. I called the local shop that specializes in these trucks and parts, Bowtie Truck Stop. I get everything from them. Kevin and Lisa are wonderful people and I trust them completely to shoot straight and help me out. Come to find out, no one makes patch panels for the roof. But they had a roof panel that was damaged in shipping and they were willing to give me a smoking deal on it. I picked it up, and there were three small dents in the center of the roof where it looks like someone set something on it and maybe slid it a little. I got the roof panel home and started playing with my hammer and dolly. I am not a body man. I just have a few tools, patience, and want to learn how to do this stuff. I managed to get the dents out to the point where no one would notice them unless they are doing a concourse level inspection. This may be where the slight twist of the panel came from. After taking the old roof panel off, I started test fitting the new one. Aside from the slight twist, it fit really well through the drip rails. The rear gap wasn't very consistent. It didn't fit snuggly against the cab rear panel anywhere, but it could be pulled into place in most places, if I had access to the pinch welds. I decided that the good fitment in the drip rails was good for me, and since I was going to use adhesive anyway, I could get the rear seam close and fill any voids with body filler, again this isn't a show truck. The adhesive I used has some gap-filling capability, so I used it to fill the thicker gap spots. I used the lumber and ratchet straps to put a little pressure on the rear seam, so that some of the product did squeeze out. There is also nothing saying that my rear cab panel is straight and correct. The rear of my cab has some dents that I'm really not doing anything about. This is a 50+ year old vehicle that has been used hard and put away wet more times than I care to speculate on. Personally, I don't think it would be realistic to expect a replacement panel of this size to fit 100% correct even if it came from the original tooling. So the panel ended up working for what I'm hoping to achieve and for what I'm willing to spend on it. I've got pretty limited bodywork skills and so don't really have the knowledge to get it to fit better than adequately. I do have people I could have had help massage the panel and cab to get the rear gap better, but when it came right down to it, I didn't have the ambition to get it to fit better either. I'm happy with how it turned out, and I don't have to worry about a large chunk of body filler blowing off of my roof in the future, or worse trapping moisture against the steel and rotting it out prematurely. Sorry for the long winded post, but I did warn you at the beginning! ![]() |
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