The Egg Hauler.... not much of a build

[Ta2Don]

Haven't checked in in awhile... Looking good! Have a Happy Fourth...
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[jcramsey]

Got all my new brake lines in. Having a little trouble bleeding..not sure if i got the master bench bled all the way or not so might have to go back and make sure its bled properly.


Anybody got good brake bleeding tips?

Thanks
Jeremy

[cubber]

I've always used the one you put air into and put over the MC. Then you just bleed the lines at the wheel, starting at RR, then LR, then RF, then LF. The tool has brake fluid in it, so you don't run out, then you just take it off the MC, then top off the fluid, then put the MC lid back on. Sometimes you have to add more air to the bleeder if you are starting with empty lines.

[jcramsey]

Thanks cubber! I ended making a poor man's reverse bleeder. Worked like a charm for the front discs yesterday. Poured fluid in the master, sucked it up in the syringe and stuck it on the bleeder and filled the system that way.

Started on the back brakes and couldn't get them to fill at all. Went out with the wife last night so I returned to the rears this morning and realized what was going on. I essentially replaced the entire braking system front to back but didn't touch the 47 year old wheel cylinders. Two new cylinders later and the fluid was flowing.

Finished bleeding the brakes and took it for a spin. So much better than before, I actually feel safe driving!

There is a little bit of a dead pedal before it starts to brake, so I'm wondering if I need to bleed some more or what? I'll have to measure the travel to see how far it is, but just wondering if that is normal. Been so long since I had good brakes I'm not sure what its supposed to feel like.

Feels goooood to be back on the road.
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[OrangeAnimal]

Adjust the rear shoes just short of where they start to drag as you rotate the drum. If that doesn't help then try to bleed the rear again.

I have always used the method of just cracking open the bleeder valve and letting the fluid just flow out for awhile. If that doesn't work I get someone to press the brake pedal while I open the bleeder. The biggest mistake people making is pumping the brakes several times to get the pedal to return to having some feel to it.

Work the pedal slowly!!! Here's how I do it. Press pedal slowly till it gets firm or hits the floor, hold it there, open the valve, watch the fluid as it comes out shut the valve before it stops flowing completely, slowly remove your foot from the pedal, wait about 10 seconds, slowly reapply the brake, repeat, repeat, repeat. Hopefully by then you have a good pedal and have stopped getting air from the bleeder.

Hope that helps you out.

[jcramsey]

Big help, thanks Orange!
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[jcramsey]

Found some inspiration from an old post by Tx Firefighter. Lowering Blocks 101

I really wanted my truck level, so 2 more inches down in the back should do it. I've had this chunk of 2" square tube floating around in my garage for a long time and am glad to finally have a good use for it. Being a pack rat has its advantages sometimes.

A few measurements, a good bit of drilling, a little time with the trusty grinder, and a set of lowering blocks is born.

I ordered my CPP c notch kit last night from Summit and hopefully will have good luck with it. I've heard mixed reviews.

Also picked up a stock 250 manifold on Saturday. Didnt have any plastic containers big enough to drop it in for the vinegar treatment, so I built up a little box and will line it with a trash bag or similar. Waiting on the intake to exhaust gasket to come in as well.

[Tx Firefighter]

I need to go back and revisit my lowering block article. There was someone awhile back that said I have posted the wrong size for the u bolts. Did you find that to be the case ?
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[jcramsey]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I need to go back and revisit my lowering block article. There was someone awhile back that said I have posted the wrong size for the u bolts. Did you find that to be the case ?
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I haven't gotten new u-bolts yet so I'm not sure. I'll update what I find when I get new ones though.

[jcramsey]

Ended up ordering some u-bolts yesterday from vendor/member way2lo2. Easy to deal with, fast communication, and they were shipped yesterday too. Well worth the $35 shipped for me not to have to figure out somewhere around here that even makes U-bolts, worrying if they will get the angle right so it lines up with the holes, then driving to wherever it is to pick them up.

Here is his thread:

Lowering block U-bolts

[McMurphy]

I just had a pair of u-bolts made for my rear sway bar mod at a local Transmission Shop. Cost me $26 ... easy peasy !!

[jcramsey]

My CPP c-notch and longer u-bolts both arrived yesterday

Just need to round up three buddies now to help me lift the bed off of this truck to make it a lot easier to do the work for this notch install.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I need to go back and revisit my lowering block article. There was someone awhile back that said I have posted the wrong size for the u bolts. Did you find that to be the case ?
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Tx Firefighter the washers for my u-bolts were stamped 3/4.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by jcramsey

Tx Firefighter the washers for my u-bolts were stamped 3/4.

I'm gonna go dig up that FAQ thread and change the measurements. The ones I has made we're 5/8 but I'm realizing my u bolts had apparently been changed in the past to smaller ones because you're not the first guy to tell me his were 3/4".
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[jcramsey]

Been working on my stock exhaust manifold lately which has been a pain. Just trying to get rusty bolts out is turning into a chore.

Went home to visit my family last weekend and my brother and I got the outlet flange side bolts cut off/drilled out/tapped for new bolts, only to come back home and realize the bolts on top for attaching to the intake are too long to use too. They are just as rusted in as the others were. Tried to put a little heat on one yesterday with my little propane torch, but it just laughed at me. I dont have any taps or I would just give it the same treatment as the other bolts. Anybody got any good rusty bolt removal tips. I may soak it in vinegar for a week and see if that loosens them up.

[rusty76]

Very nice indeed.

[jcramsey]

Exhaust pipe went on without a hitch yesterday. Didnt even need any balin' wire or bungee cords! Was able to take it out again to the local meet again this morning. My wife did some shopping while i talked cars with some new folks. Great start to the weekend. Also met fellow board member ridinlow68 who was actually in town from Maine on vacation. He has a killer build going on in the 67-72 section. Project FROSTBYTE

[ridinlow68]

Originally Posted by jcramsey

Exhaust pipe went on without a hitch yesterday. Didnt even need any balin' wire or bungee cords! Was able to take it out again to the local meet again this morning. My wife did some shopping while i talked cars with some new folks. Great start to the weekend. Also met fellow board member ridinlow68 who was actually in town from Maine on vacation. He has a killer build going on in the 67-72 section. Project FROSTBYTE

It was great to meet you as well! It was cool to look over your truck in person. Man, does it have some great character! You're doing it right. Also, your exhaust sounds great, that's what caught my attention as we were walking around the show when you pulled in! haha

Here's some pics of your truck we took at the show. If you want the hi-res, let me know.

[jcramsey]

Originally Posted by ridinlow68

It was great to meet you as well! It was cool to look over your truck in person. Man, does it have some great character! You're doing it right. Also, your exhaust sounds great, that's what caught my attention as we were walking around the show when you pulled in! haha

Here's some pics of your truck we took at the show. If you want the hi-res, let me know.

Rick, thanks for the compliments and the pics! I would appreciate the hi-res, the ones you posted look pretty awesome already...I'll PM you my email address.

Glad to get some feedback on the exhuast...wasnt sure what it really sounded like to someone outside the truck. Straight pipe it will be then! I did have a little exhaust envy whent he guy beside me in the Grand National fired his up with the cutouts open. I've never heard a 600+ hp v6 Buick before.

[TJ's Chevy]

To bad your so far away! I'd love to see you truck in person.....maybe go on the track and have a race... We both have 6 cylinders!

[jcramsey]

Originally Posted by T.J. MCCAULEY

To bad your so far away! I'd love to see you truck in person.....maybe go on the track and have a race... We both have 6 cylinders!

I know man I'd love to come check out that sweet 292 in yours. Sounds good in that video you posted. It's only about 3,000 miles from SC to OR.... I could have my little six pegged out around 60 mph and be there in about a week hahah.

That'd be a sad race on my part. Between the worn out six and needing a new clutch, I aint putting much of the original 165 hp to the ground. Who knows when this old motor is gonna lay down on me though, it starts up and runs like a champ every time!

One of these days I'll build it right, but right now I'm having too much fun drivin'

[coulter]

the new stance looks great!! cool lookin truck man

[jcramsey]

Originally Posted by coulter

the new stance looks great!! cool lookin truck man

Thanks man! Just scoped out your build......your truck looks killer! Lots of awesome in that thread

[coulter]

thanx man!!!!!

[Low Elco]

Glad the trip went well!

[rusty76]

Congrats on a safe and fun trip.