1964 C10 fleet side swb

[88Stanger]

looking good.... keep up the good work

[Justin71105]

Got accessories mounted and inner fenders on. Looks like I will be able to use stock PS hoses, they celar the frame pretty well. Just need to cut a hole in inner fender or a spot out of the bottom.

[Justin71105]

Ordered power steering hoses today to finish thatbpart. Got the call that my gas tabk setup has come in, going to pick it up monday. Then hopefully can start making a lot of progress over the next few weeks. Ordered wheels and tires yesterday, should have them in next week as well.

[aggie91]

The difference between those measurements could be difference in the machining of the yoke and the end of the pinion shaft. Some times the pinion shaft could be deformed slightly if it is a old or used pinion. I always use the machined surface of the yoke to measure the angle. I use one level to set the yoke so that the cross shaft of the u-joint is level with the ground and them use the machined face of the yoke to measure the angle. Captain is correct on the indication of the arrow. It is the direction of rotation to get to zero or 90 (second photo showing 85.30)

[Justin71105]

4.5/5 drop - 2.5" spindles, 2" springs front and 5" springs rear
17x8 Soft 8s
235/60R17 tires

Rear end now shows 88.20 with a down arrow, so taking this as 1.8 degrees up. Truck is now too low for me to get my big butt under the cab so going to have my brother scoot under there later to get transmission reading just to see if it moved up any after putting it on the wheels.

[Justin71105]

Center caps came in, I really like them. Hoping the wood bed and fuel will bring the bed down on the tires a little more.


Have the power steering lines run and ordered some trim for where I cut to keep hoses from wearing.

Going to stand in the bed to simulate the weight of wood and fuel while my brother measures drive shaft length tomorrow and try to get one made this next week.

Trans angle is 4.5 down and rear end is 1.8 up like it sits.

[Justin71105]

Put my front end together to see what it looks like, finally looking like a truck.

[Justin71105]

Have the fuel lines run and got my trim put on inner fender so my power steering line doesn't rib through. Going to get some kevlar wrap for where the fuel line is touching the firewall flange.

[Justin71105]

Tried out some flat white paint on the front clip to see what I thought.

Came out decent but don't care for the flat paint after all, love the gloss back on the background. So I think I am going to do either semi gloss or gloss white.

Make those dents really "pop" lol, but I was never going for a perfect looking body on the truck.

Got my ecm mounts in and primered/painted. That rustoleum enamel gloss black really does look amazing after drying. It looks really good on the clip on the headlight surrounds.

[53Sparky]

This is the first time I've come across this thread. You've got a great project, Justin! I agree - the centre caps really look great.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by 53Sparky

This is the first time I've come across this thread. You've got a great project, Justin! I agree - the centre caps really look great.

Going to change out the center section of the caps to the gold bow tie as well, I think it will look killer.

[88Stanger]

I have messed around with flats, and i will tell you this, if they rubbed alot ie. fenders, and such... they will transition to more of a satin in the "rub" area. My "69 I did in all flat and the fenders have a bit of satin to them. I really do not mind, i kinda think that is what i expected so i am ok with it. My "66 will be flat red with semi-gloss to gloss black highlights. So just understand that the flats can move a bit to satin in areas.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

I have messed around with flats, and i will tell you this, if they rubbed alot ie. fenders, and such... they will transition to more of a satin in the "rub" area. My "69 I did in all flat and the fenders have a bit of satin to them. I really do not mind, i kinda think that is what i expected so i am ok with it. My "66 will be flat red with semi-gloss to gloss black highlights. So just understand that the flats can move a bit to satin in areas.

I am going to sand and re-shoot the front clip with a semi-gloss or maybe even gloss white and see how I like it. I love how the gloss black enamel came out on the headlight buckets and the backing of the clip.

Wanted flat to help "hide" some of the dents but after seeing the finish of that gloss I really like it. Going to be a very budget paint job anyhow, just some Rust-oleum professional through a hvlp gun in my garage.

Everything other than the body is pretty much brand new so it should be a good driver. Honestly I would drive it like it is if it was running right now.

Maybe in a few more years I will buy new doors/hood and I will take the time to really prep it for some real single stage paint. My door repair on passenger side is not very good but I don't want to drop $1200 on doors this year. Still have at least another 3-4k I need in interior/cooling system for the parts I want.

[88Stanger]

Very nice, good to know about the weather stripping....

[Justin71105]

Only issue it brought up is how badly I warped my door when I welded in the patch or that it was already bent and I never noticed b/c i didn't have weather stripping.

The latch side on the bottom from where I welded to the bottom does not even touch the weather stripping.

It looks really bad....so I am going to order both new doors once I get the radiator in, hear it run and make sure the transmission is ok.

Also will not install anything on these old doors since they are already stripped of all the mechanical parts atm.

Ordered an air intake off amazon and went to install it today.

I have a repro battery box in its stock passenger core support location and the elbow off the throttle body in this kit is way to short to clear my alternator on driver side. As well as the tubing being 4" and my maf not fitting.


So I got all the parts in my cart to build my own air cleaner setup. A longer elbow 4" to 3.5", 45 degree piece of pipe 12", a 3.5 to 3.5 coupler for the MAF, and a 6" filter instead of the 10" in this kit.



Will be an Elbow coming off TB, then the MAF-coupler-pipe-filter. Will route to driver side behind the core support where the air vents are.

Also going to redo my brake lines from the Mastr cyl to prop valve. I am going to do the coils the same but go down to the frame and follow it to prop valve instead of mounting them to the inner fender. This will clear up the eye sore that the brake lines and power steering lines are causing me.


BTW - The lower radiator hose I got out of junkyard looks like it will work for the inlet and outlet on a radiator as far as the bends go. So I am going to use its curves to hunt down an 1.25" upper hose to use. Its a Dayco 71190

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Very nice, good to know about the weather stripping....

Credit for that goes to member: Rob Fisher

Found his post from 2014 and I also tested the Accord weather stripping. b/c it was had the black vinyl trim instead of the grey.

[Justin71105]

Well decided to pull engine harness off and route through the firewall with the ecm in the cab. Plan is mount ECM either on the cover for my kick panel holes and the body harness/fuse-box in a stockish location or vice versa.

Worst part was getting the seal put in the firewall, if I had thought ahead I could have it extended maybe 4 more foot and mounted ecm under my seat.

Ordered me a cool intake cover as well.

[Justin71105]

Got my drive shaft ordered yesterday, should have it by next week.

This weekend I think I will try to get my brake pedal finished and get the dbw gas pedal cut/bent/installed.

The picture is from a website that sales the adapter bracket, they no longer sale the one for my pedal so I will attempt to make re-make my pedal. The pic is a my body style with the same pedal I have though...

I will heat and straighten the arm, going to get some steel plate to mount pedal to and bolt that to the firewall. Going to decide where to mount it to put it beside the brake pedal how I feel most comfortable and then cut and shorten the arm so the pedal sits in-line with the brake.

If I can finish this Fri/Sat then I will work on mounting my ecm and body harness fuse box Sun.

[SCOTI]

So you're going to mount the base first, then section & tweak the pedal 'arm' so the pedal is aligned where you want it w/the brake/clutch pedals?

[Justin71105]

Well the new brake rod lasted a few pumps after bleeding and that 5/16 rod bent at the round section that goes over the stud in arm. So I went back and cut the 5/16 rod off and went with 3/8 rod with a spacer between the adjustable coupler and the round section.

Pumped on these very hard with lines closed and no bending or movement at all.

I pressed out the stud for the loop on the booster rod and pressed it in my stock pedal. So using it with a spacer instead of brake switch on those models and a dorman clip to hold it all on.

I got a template of 16 ga steel plate made for the gas pedal to mount on outside of firewall. Plan is once I get pedal exactly where I want it to weld nuts on this and weld the plate to the firewall so it cant move if I need to take pedal out.

Save that for another day, its cold and after 2.5 days of jacking with this brake pedal I am beat.

Drive shaft is finished and I will pick it up Wed and try to get gas pedal mounted.

Get shims installed in rear and measure rear end angle and raise transmission to match, and then I will install drive shaft and measure that angle to get my operating angles and see if I will need to get a high humps trans cover....hoping I will not need to do this.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Well the new brake rod lasted a few pumps after bleeding and that 5/16 rod bent at the round section that goes over the stud in arm. So I went back and cut the 5/16 rod off and went with 3/8 rod with a spacer between the adjustable coupler and the round section.

Pumped on these very hard with lines closed and no bending or movement at all.

I pressed out the stud for the loop on the booster rod and pressed it in my stock pedal. So using it with a spacer instead of brake switch on those models and a dorman clip to hold it all on.

I got a template of 16 ga steel plate made for the gas pedal to mount on outside of firewall. Plan is once I get pedal exactly where I want it to weld nuts on this and weld the plate to the firewall so it cant move if I need to take pedal out.

Save that for another day, its cold and after 2.5 days of jacking with this brake pedal I am beat.
.

I would set-up the under dash brake pieces to be a 2-part 'modular' installation: parts contained under the dash connected to parts retained outside the firewall.

This allows for easy replacement of the brake booster for future service vs having to revisit fab work to make the set-up work. Is this how you ended up?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I would set-up the under dash brake pieces to be a 2-part 'modular' installation: parts contained under the dash connected to parts retained outside the firewall.

This allows for easy replacement of the brake booster for future service vs having to revisit fab work to make the set-up work. Is this how you ended up?

Yea to make a new booster work all I would need to do is cut off the ring, place the nub into the coupler end and then just adjust the coupler on the pedal side to make a tighter fit on the booster rod and tighten down my lock nuts.

Hard to make it work using the ring on the booster, it became a pivot point and would not let me push rod in straight.

[Justin71105]

Radiator fan came in today, decided on a Ford Taurus fan with the built in shroud.

Mounted ecm in truck, decided on mounting ecm where fuse box normally goes and make a spot for the harness fuse box and body fuse box.

Will get the two fuse boxes mounted this weekend but the ecm is in and I like it.

Using one existing bolt hole for ecm at the column, used a longer bolt and can mount the cover with a nut in the engine bay.

[SCOTI]

What diameter is the fan?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What diameter is the fan?

Fan is almost 19"

Overall size is 22x19.5 not including the ears you mount with. It is 2400 cfm on lo and 2900 on high.

Found the idea on these forums to use the Ford Taurus fan, think its 91-94 or T birds, Volvo 740's all use this fan. Got mine on amazon, its a dorman 620-118, not bad for $80 shipped, then another $30ish for the pigtail and relays.