55 in NH build

[jwhotrod]

just a quick note to say I have mounted my swaybar facing rearward in front of the rearend. The bushing housings for the bar looked like they wanted to have the front bolt in the frame hole where one of the bed cross braces mount. I had my local machine shop bens up a z bracket to replace that bed brace by over spanning the original bolt hole. I hope this helps.

[Kevin_C]

thanks JWhotrod. I'm going to circle back to the sway bar after I finish the front. Im running low on time with the weather so im scrambling.

I like to build old Honda's an just got back from the Distinguished Gentlemen's Ride in Ottawa. Great ride but now im back working on cutting out the PO partial boxing plates. he made some home made engine mounts that went through the boxing plate and was welded on the inside and the outside.

[Kevin_C]

got front cross member out and frame cleaned up. need to decide where and how to trim the lower frame rail. broke down the corvette front end today. I thought it would be a quick job... everything had an inch of oil/dirt on it. seeing im running a hydroboost im considering running the corvette power steering cooler as well.

[jwhotrod]

I think you are doing the right thing. Ralph Seats that owns ECI brakes is a good friend of mine, he has helped me thru the years with brakes on my street rods. When I told him I was building this 55 with corvette brakes he said without hesitation, use a Hydroboost the "standard" corvette master cylinder/7"dble booster we generally use wont generate enough line pressure to be effective with the c4/c5 brakes we are using. Good luck.

[Kevin_C]

started cleaning up the front components.

[Kevin_C]

I got the frame trimmed up, I decided to keep a bit of the lower frame flange. I figured it may help with mounting the power steering cooler. Welder is coming next week. I'm going to shift the boxing plates forward a bit so I'll have to trim them a little but so far its been pretty straight forward.

[Kevin_C]

Welder was able to burn in everything today. He was able to knock out everything in 3 hours and only charged me $210. that plasma cutter made quick work out of the notches. I'll clean up the frame tomorrow.

[oldman3]

looks good...Jim

[Kevin_C]

thanks Jim. So the previous owner cut the ugliest slot in the firewall for the magneto tach cable. It was an odd shape with many curves but turned out ok.

overall the firewall is in decent shape. I just need to figure out what holes I can close up. anyone know what the round and oval ones on the trans section are for?

[dug224]

High quality work. Enjoying the build.

[55_truck]

Kevin - looks good! What measurement did you end up with to the new crossmember? Did you mount a fender and center to wheel well? most end up moving it forward up to 3/4" from Dons instructions

[Kevin_C]

I actually went with the instructions. It mentions you can move it up to an inch forward but ultimately I think you need to just go with what looks best to you. I mocked up the fender and tossed on an 18" wheel and tire and it looked good to me there. unfortunately I didn't snap a picture. fingers crossed.

[Kevin_C]

Scored a mint passenger door the other day for $175!!!! the streaks you see are not dents just my wiping all the dust off of it. got the front end sanded and primed today. ordered a new bellhousing for my Muncie 4 speed to replace my cracked an broken one. Hope to get the oil leaks on the engine sorted in the next couple weeks and get it mocked up to build the motor mounts.

[Kevin_C]

in my haste to install the passenger door I failed to clean out the threads and jammed up one of the bottom hinge bolts. when it didn't feel right I tried to back it out and the nut broke its welds inside the door. I was able to recover the nut and clean up the threads. I was trying to figure out how to weld it back in. Seems like most rivenut it but because this was the bottom hinge I was able to trace the perimeter of the nut and drill 4 holes on the corners. I was able to fish the nut through the door using a piece of wire through a bolt shaft that I tapered so I would slide a nut over the wire to hold it in place as I welded. I got lucky on this one.

[Kevin_C]

well I got the engine mocked up today. The PO had the engine sitting a lot lower than I was able to go with the flat-out crossmember. I used the Muncie to locate the engine. I had to jack the engine up to clear the power rack and will definitely need to rotate the fittings on the rack as they are almost touching the oil pan. currently the vette rear is at 3 degrees up and I have the engine mocked up at 4 degrees down. I have maybe a 1/4" around everything but I can see that the factory throttle arm comes in contact with the bellhousing when attempting WOT. That giant magneto doesn't help with how tall it is. I may consider mocking the radiator back up and see if I can move the engine forward a bit and shift the trans mount forward 1/2". Do most people switch over to a lokar setup and ditch the factory linkage or find a way to modify it? Let me know what you think.

[youngrodder]

Clever job rewelding that nut. Great solution.

Marc

[Kevin_C]

Thanks Marc. I got luck that it was the bottom pocket and not the top

[Kevin_C]

trying to get the motor mounts tacked in this week. the PO had the engine very low and set back. He also cut down the oil pan so he could set it lower. I had to raise up the engine a couple inches to clear the rack but it ends up putting the tall magneto against the firewall and leaves the valve covers about 1/4" from hitting. I currently have 2" between the engine and fan so I'm thinking of moving the engine and transmission forward 3/4-1"

[Rickysnickers]

I have a question. That's the first radiator I've seen that appears to sit flush with the core support. What kind of radiator/shroud is that?

[Kevin_C]

I'm not sure on the radiator. The PO had installed it along with adding additional air holes in the front of the core support.

[Kevin_C]

Finally got the engine mounts welded in and frame painted.

[Kevin_C]

I figured now is the time to fill the firewall holes with the engine out. I picked up a $1.48 electrical box that had both size plugs that I needed.

[Kevin_C]

Just got the two trans-tunnel holes to fill and some pin holes before I start prepping the firewall for paint. Overall im happy with how it came out.

[slammed57]

Looking very nice. Very good work!

[dsraven]

good idea for hole plugs as long as you grind off the zinc plating first.
another idea thats inexpensive. buy the plugs larger than youi need. drill the hole to fit with a step drill so it is actually round, then weld the new plug in. no irregular shapes.

https://welderseries.com/Unholes-p50202282