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#51 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,485
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
About the steering wheel. My 69 came with a 17" wheel, which was nice to have until I converted to power steering. I think a 13" wheel would take a linebacker to turn w/o power steering!
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#52 | |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 5,469
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
There's a short piece of rubber fuel line under the cab that connects the solid line from the tank to the solid line that runs along the passenger frame rail. That could be the source of your fuel smell if it is cracked and weeping. There is also a large rubber o-ring that seals the fuel tank sender to the tank that could be leaking as well. |
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#53 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 2,149
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Nice!
I do like a GM HEI distributor. I looked on Ebay and there are 2 used ones. 1 has no picture, the other is aftermarket so that's probably no good. I looked on Car-part.com for a 1980 C10 250 Federal Emissions distributor and they seem to be out there for around $50. You would want to change cap and rotor, plug wires, and change or at least re-gap the spark plugs. You would have to run a wire from the firewall to it to replace the original resistance wire.
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'83 K20-TPI '73 C10 '79 C10-ex-diesel(SOLD) '07 Tahoe(Son driving) '14 Suburban-DD '71 C10-current project |
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#54 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
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#55 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kent, WA.
Posts: 834
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
That is a very nice solid truck.
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#56 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Kent, WA.
Posts: 834
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
I really don't think this one was a long bed cut down to a short bed.
Any pictures of the bed? |
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#57 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Catskill Mountains,NY
Posts: 8,467
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Very nice truck
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Mark 72 c20 custom camper Husky edition, 66 SS396 Chevelle 1964 Hawk, 63 Avanti,62 lark 1969 AMX , 1968 c20 stepside ,85 K20 1977 Suburban sold 68 anniversary. |
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#58 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
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#59 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Ramon,CA
Posts: 501
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...-and-clip-sets
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1970 C10 Custom longbed 350/350 |
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#60 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
I ordered a rear chrome sport bumper today.
What I realized though is that I seem to be missing the brackets that bolt to that bumper? Any recommendations where to pick that up? I hope I don’t have some complications as a result of this being a converted short bed? Might have to drill some bracket holes? Last edited by Luke87gt; 03-04-2024 at 10:45 PM. |
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#61 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
I’m thinking my first project should be to remove the gas tank and replace the filler neck seal, soft line, and flush the tank. I have reason to believe there is gas in there that’s a decade+ old.
Can anyone provide a procedure on how to best flush the tank? Also, while its out, should I service the sending unit in any way (besides a new gasket)? Any other tips you have while I’m in there would be appreciated. Thanks |
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#62 | ||
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 21
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
Quote:
I'm a newbie to these trucks too, and like you I'm new to these old school carbureted / points systems, so if I could pass on 3 very basic things I learned in the last few months getting my '69 from "barely runs" to "daily driver," and that could have saved me grief if I'd known them sooner, they'd be: 1: don't do anything else until you have a CLEAN , SAFE fuel supply. Clogged carb fuel passages are a pain, and fires are even worse... you're right to start where you are with the fuel lines and gas tank. 2: My timing light and vacuum gauge became my best friends. My truck backfired, dieseled, started hard, idled crazy... part of it was timing way off, and the rest was a vacuum leak. If I hadn't learned how to use the timing light and vacuum gauge, I probably would have spent weeks blaming everything on the carburetor and never gotten anywhere. (Before you dive into a carb rebuild you might want to see how far you can get with just setting timing and idle adjustments for good vacuum and then putting in fresh spark plugs/wires.) 3. Almost every problem I've had with an electrical item not working on my truck has been due to lack of ground, usually just due to grime and corrosion where the device housing attaches to the body of the truck. Happy wrenching! That's a nice looking truck you have there. -Will |
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#63 |
New Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Sunol, CA
Posts: 13
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Getting my C10 from the seller in San Jose to home required 4 stoppages on the shoulder of various freeways and an eventual ride on a tow truck. It was 105 at the time.
I replaced the tank, The fuel sender was really crusted and its filter missing. Putting the fuel sender back in the tank with a new gasket was tricky. There is a tool.......but I fought it in. The tank was full of crud. There were two additional tanks in the rear wheelarches and a three way valve under the drivers seat. The lines were brittle plastic. You could break them with your fingers. I replaced all the existing rubber line connectors. Getting the tank out is easier with two people. I wish I had sat down and set a goal of what I wanted my truck to be when I finished it before I started. It was my first project. I went at it a bit piecemeal and ended, over two years, with redoing things and buying more parts that I could have avoided if I had had a plan!! I have learned at lot though! Good luck. |
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#64 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PNW
Posts: 3,587
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
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#65 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Ramon,CA
Posts: 501
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Replace the "sock" filter on the intake side of the sender unit as well. I guess make sure the float hasn't leaked and check the resistance on the sender while it's out.
Pardon me if I'm repeating stuff...
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1970 C10 Custom longbed 350/350 |
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#66 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Thank you all
Given the age and how long the car sat, I’m tempted to get a new tank If I go that route, any trusted sources I should consider that are proven to fit and function well? |
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#67 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Herculaneum MO (20 minutes south of St. Louis
Posts: 613
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
O'Reilly auto parts. Spectre brand or something like that. Made in Canada. Fit perfect had it in 2 days. Didn't have to pay shipping.
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67 C10 283 T5 swapped longbed fleetside = wife's daily driver 67 C20 292 (originally a 250)4speed longbed fleetside w/original wooden bed=my project truck 67 C10 283+.060 (so a 292 as well)T5 swapped longbed fleetside=my DD 72 C1500 Sierra Grande 350 TH350 longbed fleetside=wife's fair weather truck Can you tell we are fans of longbed fleetsides & 67s Chris |
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#68 | |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 21
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
You're working on the fuel lines and tank now and it sounds like some of the issue is coming from those connectors, but also, looking at this picture, a few thoughts come to my mind about the carburetor. Since fuel is draining without restriction through the carburetor (I think you have a Monojet?) and also leaking out past the gasket to the manifold, you may have one or more of these problems: 1. What limits the flow of gas into the carburetor (assuming no leak right at the fuel line to in-carb fuel filter) is a float valve system basically similar to what limits flow of water into a toilet tank. Fuel flow into the carb float tank is turned off when the float rides high enough on the top of the fuel supply in the float tank. (Fuel supply from the float tank *to the engine* is more complicated and involves other downstream circuits-which involve other little passages and mechanical parts that you should also check for clogs if you have power problems). Now, the plastic float inside the Monojet carburetors is reportedly solvent permeable over decades, and people say they just get totally soaked and lose buoyancy, and sink in the float basin, leaving the float valve permanently open, which could be contributing to your fuel leak issue? So you may want to replace the float. also possible, your float could be buoyant but the arm holding it could be bent at the wrong angle leaving the valve permanently open no matter what the level of gas in the float tank. The float setting is something you can adjust. 2. Might want to make sure there's no debris interfering with the function of the float valve itself, which might be another reason for the gas supply to stick open/cause your leak. A wise old truck guy I talked to said he'd actually had an under-hood fire start this way. 3. I suppose there could theoretically be a defect in the in-carb fuel filter itself, or at its mounting to the fuel line, that could cause a leak, and you'd want to at least glance at this area too. 4. clearly you'd want to put a new gasket at the carb to manifold interface. There's probably also going to be sediment in the float tank inside the carburetor (just wipe it out) and in the tiny passages leading out of it (which you can blow out with compressed air). If you don't get this cleaned out, you'll have fuel supply problems and the truck will stall out. Once your fuel supply issues are sorted, and you have done the basic tuneup so you know whether you need to get into the carburetor next, you may find the info on this page useful in figuring out how your Monojet works: https://www.carburetor-parts.com/monojet-technical-help There are also many useful links searchable on this board, and some helpful videos findable on Youtube for almost any procedure you want to learn about. -Will |
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#69 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 7,228
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
Some really great advice above. Other than that, if you drop an HEI in there, word is to gap the sparks plugs a pinch greater than specs. HEI are awesome, I'm using the same Delco I pulled in 1993 off a 1975ish. Rear bumper. Well, you need to know the bolt pattern in your frame rails, for brackets. It's probably 5.0" or 7.1" IMO, and if so, the outer brackets are the same, while the inners are per the frame rails. If you have rear leaf springs, then it's a 5.3" pattern, and I can tell you how to modify an available set, cuz you sure as heck won't find them.
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Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assembly kit for restoring the (a) truck from the ground up. My build thread, and more on the assembly kit https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025 Last edited by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402; 03-11-2024 at 12:18 AM. |
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#70 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
Additionally when I was shopping the brackets, I don’t recall seeing any different version. When they come in, I’ll post up some pics and cross my fingers they are right. |
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#71 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 7,228
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Quote:
![]() Do you have leaf springs or coils?
__________________
Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assembly kit for restoring the (a) truck from the ground up. My build thread, and more on the assembly kit https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025 Last edited by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402; 03-11-2024 at 12:59 AM. |
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#72 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Registering the truck in CA has turned into quite the project in itself.
I took the papers to the DMV to register the truck. They told me I need to bring the truck in for vin verification. I told them it’s not running well enough yet to do that. They then recommend I call the CHP for the vin verification. Of course the CHP doesn’t do house calls. OK so I hire a private Vin verification company that is mobile and comes to my house. $160 later, the vin is verified. I go back to the DMV and they indicate that because the vehicle is a pickup, it is classified as a “commercial vehicle” and must be weighed at a certified station 🤦*♂️ Not sure what to do now given the car doesn’t yet run good enough to be mobile under its own power. This is turning into quite the hassle. Thanks California! |
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#73 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hanover NJ
Posts: 4,156
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
I’m sure your board neighbors from Ca will chime in here I have purchased 3 trucks in the past from your state and the titles / registrations need to be current I can’t think of the name of the designation at the moment I suffer from CRS ….. or you go through the BS your going through now Good Luck with getting it done be patient with the AUTHORITIES Lord knows they have the authority
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Doc & Kim build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=722288 I am from the desert http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=650332 basket case build SOLD http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=648557 |
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#74 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 8,644
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
I went through this exact thing with a 70 c30 I dragged back from Oregon. In addition to the things you mentioned I had issues with it being a camper and the camper was removed so they were calling it “incomplete” (you won’t have that). Also there were questions about some missing sticker, hence the need for the CHP trip.
I had to load it on a trailer, weigh it at the scale, unload, weigh again, reload. But it worked. It’s a real pain but you’ll get through it.
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Please help my sister in law with her battle with cancer https://gofund.me/902f6fce Project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb) Project "Little Sister" (70 c10 blue original paint refresh) Project "Blue Bomb" (70 c30 blue original paint refresh) SOLD Project "Vitamin C" (71 c10 orange original paint refresh) SOLD |
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#75 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2024
Location: Pleasanton CA
Posts: 179
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Re: Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA
Terribly annoying… it’s a c10! It weighs ballpark what other c10s weigh. This is a typical CA money grab
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