how low can i go?

[RoadRat]

Stick with it dec010974. Awesome build!

[dec010974]

hello to all. happy new year. as planned, here is an update. please feel free to chime in. I have almost completed my fuse box wiring. im currently testing every thing. I have a few bugs to work out, but that's life. back to the suspension. since no one told me, ill be the first to say it, my raked, low rear set up is too low. this is with the bags mounted on the rear end, step notch and (2) inch lowering blocks. the outside tire scrub against the inner rear fender. it is very difficult to move this manually. but when its raised, Schrader valve, this problem disappears. do I leave it like this or remove one inch of the lowering blocks?

[tinydb84]

Are those pics aired up? How low are you when you are aired up? The 2'' blocks might not be making a difference as your rear end height is now determined by the bags.

Are you going to run the same height tires or switch to something taller? That might solve the issue right away. You can machine blocks of aluminum to put between the bags and rear end. You can lower the upper bag mounts as well. You can switch to Firestone bags.

[dec010974]

more pics. updated. Schrader valve. rear wheel well removed. I know this can disappear, offset, with the purchase of custom wheels. rite now that's not in my budget. im waiting on front spindles, shocks and relocaters as we speak. hopefully they will be shipped out his week. I ran out of time today. I will def play wit this thing tomorrow. I may remove one inch of the lowering block.

[tinydb84]

Removing the blocks might not do anything. It would help IF your bags were mounted on the bars.

If you remove the blocks the trailing arms may hit the frame which would make your aired out height high but wont fix your issue.

If it were me I would cut out the upper bag mounts, flip them, and move them to the bottom side of the notch. It will get you about an inch (or whatever the thickness of the bars are). Then add a spacer for another inch or so.

[SCOTI]

Measure the side shift of the frame through its travel (take a measurement from the frame to each rear wheel @ ride height & air'd out). My bet is the length of the Panhard bar is way too short for the amount of travel.

A full length Panhard bar would be much better. At the minimum, you need an adjustable Panhard bar or one built to spec on an air bag set-up. Even better is a watts Link set-up for precise control.

In absence of an adjustable Long Panhard bar or watts set-up, you'll need to create as much clearance as possible by different offsets, and/or notching out the inner bed panel, or centering everything when air'd out & living w/it being off center @ ride height.

[tinydb84]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...8&postcount=63

[dec010974]

Tinydb84, you are my brother from another mother. I know you love Cali, but come on home to Miami, Florida. You may think u don't have a place to stay, but my garage is all yours. Thanks. Time to google. Btw, who sells them?

[dec010974]

hello to all again. here are some pics for my update. these are aired up. and thanks again tinydb84.

[dec010974]

more updated pics. guess what tinydb84, I got the rear upper bag mounts to use for a spacer. 2014 is starting off great. deuces 67-72chevytrucks.

[Bagged1972]

What type of bags did you use?

[dec010974]

Air lift dominators, 2600.

[Bagged1972]

Ok cool now did the lowering blocks hurt the aired out height cause mine has the same set up on the rear and I have 2in lowering blocks but I didn't put them in on the count that I didn't know if I would get the same amount of drop as I have now.

[dec010974]

The lowering blocksfrom how I see it moves the rear end up or suspension up 2 inches.

[dec010974]

Hello to all. It's been a while but I'm still here lurking around. Question 1, With the stage one, porterbuilt kit, when my truck is aired out, it doesn't move. I'm thinking I need to remove the inner front fenders for move clearance. I'll post pics. ASAP, I using my iPad.

[dec010974]

here are some pics. first the beginning.

[dec010974]

now for the new. there may be clearance issues due to the truck being immobile when aired out. may be the front inner fenders need to be removed? I cant use a jack. Its to low. that wont be an issue unless I have a flat tire. That's what road side assistance is for. Here are the pics.

[dec010974]

and the rest. I gotta few things to do such as remove & change the tie rods, route & secure the air line to the inner frame rails, & clearance my lower a arms to improve my turning radius. here are the rest.

[tinydb84]

Looking good. As you go lower the more **** you have to mess with. You will need to pull or mod your inner fenders.

Are your LCA's cupped?
Did you pie cut your uppers?
Are you running a drop spindle?

Think ahead though. A set of narrowed porterbuilt arms will fix the turning radius and you wont have to cup the arms or pie cut the uppers. If you are eventually going with the full dropmember then you dont want the narrowed arms.

[tinydb84]

Double post.

[dec010974]

Ok tinydb84, I'll remove the inner fenders. Got that covered. The lower a arms are not cupped. Why are you asking that? Why should I pie cut the upper arms? I'm lost with this question. I am using belltech 3 inch drop spindles. Preach brother. Spill the beans. I thought the front go a little lower. I guess it will once I remove the inner front fenders.

[tinydb84]

(Assuming you have stock arms) If not cupped, the bag (even when deflated) will prevent the LCA from moving all the way up.

The upper ball joint will bind (preventing the suspension from compressing completely) if the UCA isn't pie cut.

I'd guessing resolving the UCA/LCA issues will get you another couple inches when laid out.

[tinydb84]

Take a look at what I did to my arms for reference:

http://c10forum.com/forum/showpost.p...&postcount=108

[dec010974]

Tinydb84, once I remove the front inner fenders, I'm gonna work on other stuff. The suspension quest has got me bummed out. Cupping the lower control arms and pie cutting the upper control arms is beyond my skill level, just to gain 2 mm of drop. The ends don't justify the means. Since that's the case, it would be better off for me to buy newer, better control arms. Can I do that? If so, which brand should I buy? Porterbuilt is what I'm eyeing from now on. Thanks for the advice. With all the mods I've made, Porterbuilt is a better choice. He's done all the homework and you can build a better truck. Time to hit the streets of Miami, Florida this summer in my rat rod. Pm me your number so we can discuss this. My email is dec010974@ yahoo.com.

[tinydb84]

You can get MMW budget flat arms. Just drive the **** out of it for now!