51' 3100 build in PA New to Site

[99 to Life]

Those are Headman headers. They actually have the ball and socket
reducers, which I think are pretty cool.

thanks

[99 to Life]

Bed, Bumper, Front Clip

Put the actual front clip on, still have to make rad support and bumper brackets etc. Got the bed mounts all done. I am doing a plywood bed (which I am customizing) I have it set up to grade down towards tail gate.
The bed itself is actually level from left to right and cab to back, doesn't look like it in the pics though.

I am going with no rear bumper and I put on this tow hitch for towing and it actually beefs up the rear for support and the bed lays on this as well. I think
I hit 3 birds with one stone. Plus I really like how it looks.

Got my s-10 brake pedal, I should be using. Hopefully I can tuck it up high in the firewall so it isn't an eyesore on the inside.

Lastly I started a thread about door locks for the drivers side 51'. I figured out that the door locks from the inside, using the handle. Better than not locking at all, but I will be changing that set up some time down the road.

[99 to Life]

June 14th weekend. Well didn't get as much done as usual. But I did manage
to drag home this 53' bel air from my friends. Not sure what will end up happening with this yet. Rear wheel almost came off during tow, luckily the spare in my truck fit 53-98' thanks chevy.

Got my front bumper moched up. I'll send pics of my fabrication when it is done, but my goal is to have this pretty sturdy incase something gets in my way!

Lastly got a 7" dual booster and MC from ebay,with proportioning valve and lines
for $210, best deal I have seen. The s-10 set up just looks big and ugly, so I think this will make it look good.

[a5Ben]

What pulleys/belt system did you use on your motor, I really dig them!

[a5Ben]

Any chance that you have pictures of your running board mounts? I read where you used 2x4 tubing....

Thanks,
Ben

[99 to Life]

Ben,

Yeah I can get some pics, but it won't be for another couple weeks. I am leaving for vacation soon and then won't get to work on the truck until the following weekend. However I did use 2x4 inch steel and cut them almost
in long irregular triangles, welded a backing plate so I can drill holes through that and into the frame and bolt it on. There is one mount that I notched so far. Also I don't have these on yet, because that is more stuff to hit my shins off of (bumper has been claiming me). BUT, I set it up to where the three different mounting points that the running boards have, line up with my brackets I cut, so I am going to use the original mounting locations on the running boards. Now when I moched it up. I didn't have the final cab mounts on there. My cab mounts are really big and thick and I think one if not both on one side might interfere with my brackets, if that is the case, I might just relocate my the running board mounting points and relocate my brackets. Also there is stuff like driveshaft crossmember, tranny member
etc, that might get in the way of being able to bolt them on. So it just has to fall in the right places. I simply don't want to weld these on because my welder is only 110v and my frame is coated, so I have to bolt them on. Also I might actually have a pic of them[/CENTER][/CENTER]

, but not mounted. PM me your email.

[99 to Life]

Sept 12 - Well I missed a weekend of the build do to vacation, oh well. Almost missed another but I decided to take a day off work and made my usual 2 hr drive to work on the truck partially sunday and all day monday.

Kind of at a standpoint with the wiring. Found out that my "original" ignition switch won't be the best for the set up because it is basically an on off switch do to the "foot start" set ups. So I am getting a universal 3 way switch. Then from there I am told by Ez wiring, I can work on the turn signal and so forth.

Got the back window in, definitely nice to have two people do it.
Got the front window prepped and is about ready for install.

Did some miscellaneous sanding of the inner fenders and bottom of the running boards. Will be coating them up with bed liner material perhaps.

Lastly, to compliment the build I got my custom plate in.

[bjcaldwe]

Looking good.
Posted via Mobile Device

[a5Ben]

I got dibs on those rims and tires when you decide to change!!!!

Looking great btw.

Ben

[99 to Life]

Sept 19th weekend

a5ben, glad you like the tires. I get the most compliments on those and the biggest question asked is "what color you painting it? God I hate that question.

Got the windshield in- actually was easier than I thought, helps to have two people. I would recommend putting a rope in the inner side of the rubber that seats on the lip of the cab, make sure the end of the rope is on the inner side of the cab. Get it all in place and have someone on the outside push on the rubber and glass in one area, while the other guy pulls the rope from the inside. It works the rubber around the lip perfectly. Work with each other in the same direction. Took us about 15 minutes just to get the glass all in and secured. Oh, I had the glass cut locally for 90 bucks flat. I figured I would support the local community, it would have been almost exactly the same price through classicparts with shipping.

Finished sanding and undercoating the fenders, running boards and inner fenders. Began moching the front clip back up, as I am trying to cut these inner fenders to fit and they are a PIA for some reason. I think because of my bumper mounts I made, I have to cut the inner fender there where they meet. Once I get those on I will bolt the front clip on permanently and mount the radiator.

Next weekend will be trying to finalize the wiring as I made an hour one way trip the junk yard this weekend, to only find them to be closed. So I have to get some tail end pig tails from there and I can hopefully finish up the wiring.

[99 to Life]

Sept 26th Weekend

Went back up the the junk yard and scored some rear shocks and wiring pig tails for ten bucks.

Inner fenders were a pain for me. Found it easier to separate the front clip and bolt the inner fender onto the fender one at a time, put em on and start cutting away at them. They will be cut differently than one another. Pretty much have the front clip finalized with the exception that I need to buy a new radiator (on its way) and then I will make sure my rad support and all that fits the new radiator. Once I bolt the rad support in it will help support the front clip. I also have to make a custom splash guard for underneath the radiator.

Worked on some wiring. I am using EZ wiring. I like the kit, but I really wish they sold some pig tails, for example. Everything is set up to directly wire to something. I am trying to have most everything wire into pig tails or some sort of connector, that way if you ever have to take anything off, you don't have to cut wires, you simply unplug them.

got a pipe bender off of CL for 115 bucks and it is brand new, can bend up to 3" pipe. I am going to try and bend my own exhaust so I'll keep you all posted on if it is worth it. Put in passenger side window as well.

[bjcaldwe]

Looking good man.

The stance is perfect.

[99 to Life]

Oct 2nd Weekend

Well, still kind of at a standpoint with the wiring. Mainly because EZ wiring is about the hardest company to get a hold of. I am hearing really good things about Rebel wiring's tech support, so in the future I think I will go with them. However, got the ignition wired up. I think I figured out the turn signal, almost. Just need to know which wire the brake wire (EZ wire White) goes to on the turn signal. I am guessing the "rear left turn" as that is what controls the left and right on a splitting wire. Also my signal has a blue and black wire that is labeled to go to the "flasher" well, since the flasher is built into the box, there is one wire that comes out and is labeled "flasher" so I am not sure if both blue and black wires connect to that one flasher wire.

Got the exhaust started, pass side (easiest side) my headers are headmans and came with ball and socket reducers. Got a flex pipe for the headers to help with the torque, and then ran 2 1/4" all the way back to the axle. Just have to bend it over the axle and run the muffler past the axle. Driver side at this point is going to 90 at the gas tank, then 90 again to the back and run side by side with the pass side and the mufflers will both run past the axle. I will then decide where I want my tail pipe tips to exit.

Decided to just order up an aluminum radiator, as I was originally going to do. BUT it is on back order. I did get the relay, cost about 38 bucks shipped. Seemed pretty legit compared to some others. I think I might run this exactly how the directions say, straight to the battery and by pass the fuse panel. I think I might use the extra circuit that EZ has for fan relay and use it for something else. Maybe a light under the hood??

[mlc216]

Very nice build!

How far off the frame did you mount the cab? 4-5" or less?

[99 to Life]

I originally had it moched up at 3.5" to the top of the bushing with the spacer on it. By the time I was done mounting it (PITA all by yourself) I ended up settling with 4" I believe.

I got 2" drop spindles in the front and 3" in the rear. I like the stance. As you can see I had to make a decent size tranny hump. But I actually like that cause I wanted to have that space there for some other stuff, which I will get close up pics on when it is all done. So with the off frame height guarantee you will need to make a tranny hump, if you are doing a 350 engine and whatever trans.

[papajohn51]

Hey there 99tolife,
Saw your post over on the hamb, s10 swap thread, I'm Novadude55 over there,,
Great job you're doing, with a lot of uphill struggle you seem to persevere and
get the job done,, very admirable, and you dont get crap like sometimes happen on the hamb... I am in the process of doin a swap with a 41 chevy on a 88 s10, I used a single cab shortbed, already have the frame extended and body and engine/trans mocked up,
I dont get to work on it as often as I like, but will get it done sooner or later,,
Great job to you..

[99 to Life]

Novadude55

Hey thanks for the compliments, that is what makes all this stuff even better. The positivity that amounts from it and the good people. I really enjoy that part of life. Anyway, I love this site and stovebolt but this one is just so much more laid back and informative, I love it. I don't get to crazy with the hamb I have been browsing a bit more on there though, but I totally can see some drama over there LOL.

anyway, yeah for my first build rolling in on ten months worth of weekends, I would say I am pretty fortunate with money and coming in at just the right times and the internet for most my research and my buddy teaching me some basic mechanics. Plus having a place to work on this stuff. Now next year I got to build a garage of my own (so there goes my money for another truck).

I am so close to being done, but really I can't even drive it, so now I got to
kind of lay off it pretty soon so I don't get too antsy. I would love to see your build page if or when you get it up. Please send me the link. Thanks again. I'll keep an eye out on the hamb for you too. Also you should get a build going on this site. The hamb just gets too overpopulated.

[papajohn51]

As you probably noticed, my response to you was my first post in this forum..
I never did do an intro, but I didnt notice a requirement to do so, so if i missed it let me know. Here is the link to the start of my project,,
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...=514965&page=3
I havent started my own thread yet, but I will when I get further in..
I admit that I am a slow worker when it comes to my hot rod project,
just got a lot goin on in my life right now,
I was able to mock up the motor/trans(sb chevy), and hang some ratty fenders(can I say the word ratty here?) I plan on smoothing everything out and painting it flat black and doin some pin striping..
Craig Judd lives in my town so hoping to get him to agree to do it,, not sure of the cost tho.

[99 to Life]

papajohn

well I am glad to get your first post, LOL and second. anyway, yeah you better get that profile done or they will give you the boot!! Yeah you can say ratty here. I personally like a little attitude and creativeness, so I think ratty or ratrod describe those well.

[99 to Life]

Dec 11th weekend.

I think I got my brakes bled pretty good so far. Fired it up and got some pedal which is a good sign. I just can't drive it yet cause A. there is too much snow in front of the garage and B. my clutch is still a POS. I am gonna try bleeding it more, but I have a new MC and slave on it. The line is old, but I am not sure that is the problem. I think I just need to bleed it a bunch more. But my (used) tranny just kind of feels weird. Like it won't go into gears when you run through them sometimes, namely 3rd. So I can only wonder how good this POS is. I don't like the shifting linkage though, seems like a lot of slop in it. Maybe hurst makes a short throw shifter that would fit on it.

Besides that, I got my tach hooked up. Also started on my seatbelts. 3point retractable. I had to mount the retracter to a piece of angle iron and mount that to my floor. Worked out just perfect. So now I got to do pass side and get carpeting done in the back and finalize my seat.

Lastly, something I really want to try for the gas gauge is this. I want to use the OG gauge but it is 30 ohms. The s-10 sending unit is 90ohms. So I wanted to make a new plate that would cover the s-10 tank opening. But have the 51' sending unit fit inside that plate. I would also have new fuel lines welded into the plate. So long and short the OG sending unit will mount to a plate that will fit directly into the s-10 tank, I will have my fuel lines mounted in the plate as well. I just have to talk to a couple friends that work in machine shops to see if I can get the plate milled out to spec. The OG sending unit is almost perfect depth to the bottom of the tank. If I can get this done. I am not guaranteeing it will be the most accurate "out of gas" reading ever, but I bet it will be close.

[xpickup]

99 to Life, My buddy works in a garage and I remember him saying that ones they have problems bleeding they would put in a tub on fluid and bleed them as a unit. The tanny in my K3500 acts supid when its cold maybe yours is like that. It seems beter once it gets some heat in it.

[99 to Life]

Jan 8th weekend,

Took a few weeks off cause of holidays and I been sick for two weeks. So going out in the freezing garage isn't helping much. I basically decided to
route my mufflers before the axle instead of after. A couple reasons being
it will be cheaper, I can have exhaust done rather than waiting, and it will give me more room past the axle for some ideas I have.

I decided to go with an aftermarket tank and sending unit. That way I can run my OG gauge which is 30 ohms. I figure the tank will be 250 and the sending unit is 34. So that will be my last big expense for a while. All I have to do is get my clutch situated, put the gas tank in, put running boards on and it is pretty much done. Once weather clears up a bit and I can take her back out, I can see what is up with this transmission.

[99 to Life]

Jan 18th weekend.

Well, it has been cold and I haven't had the engine running a lot. Past couple times, it has ran real bad. I think because of the cold. I tore the carb apart to check the floats and then readjusted the idle. She is running better now, but still blowing a crap load of exhaust. Let me know what you guys think, I am still learning these basics of tuning. Exhaust coming up in the engine bay is because the reducers at the end of the headers need tightened to the flex pipe, I need another person to help me tighten it, and I have no help right now, so it is loose.

Next weekend, I am hoping to have my new gas tank and sending unit so I can put the tank in and be done with that. Last thing I need to do/figured out was my clutch pedal was hitting the floor before the push rod could travel its full distance. You can see in the pic, the slave cylinder isn't fully extended (pedal is all the way to floor). So next weekend I am hoping to fix that issue, clutch is bleed good, it just isn't engaging enough. If I can iron that out, put the running boards and fenders back on and she is pretty much done. Got to hook up the ebrake still.

added some more insulation to the cab, got my pass seat belt in, and bolted my seat in for good.

YouTube - 1951 Chevy 350 engine .wmv

[trailrunner]

99 - I've been hassling with this same issue with one of my old cars lately. The car starts fine when cold, but doesn't want to start after being driven. So, the "fuel percolating out of the bowl" theory sounds plausible to me. According to the Holley website, dropping the fuel level in the bowls by about 1/8" below the sight plugs "might" help with this problem. I haven't tried this yet, but plan to within the next few days .... too many other chores to get done this week. Hope that this helps you!!!

[99 to Life]

Yeah I have heard holley's are far more temper mental about the bowls heating up. I am goin to run a heat spacer and also plan on tearing back
into the carb. I mean my intake gets hot, its aluminum an boy does that stuff get real hot. I'll re check the floats and everything else. thanks