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12-21-2020, 01:05 PM | #1 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Hi Ricky i welded the panels on. small welds cool with with wet rag and repeat. no visable distortion. i used edge of mini grinder wheel for around edges. it was time consuming. will post pic shortly
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12-21-2020, 07:30 PM | #2 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
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12-22-2020, 11:12 AM | #3 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Wow, thank you. Very nice job!!!
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12-22-2020, 08:27 PM | #4 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
thanks Ricky. i talked to JML55 on this forum and he gave some pointers. i welded some holes from under dash. i found this link here as well that really helped.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1204...ng-a-firewall/ next job has been i flattened a piece of copper tube and used foil tape to stick it to under cab on floor to weld up all holes previous seats mounting holes . filled in all other holes not needed in floor as well. 8751-6-DBC099708-C1.jpg[/img] |
12-24-2020, 01:00 AM | #5 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
that's improvising, sweet.
I have a C clamp that I cut the bottom leg off (so now it looks like a 1/2 c clamp) and screwed a magnet to that part. it sticks well to flat surfaces like a floor or firewall. then the adjustment part I use to screw down a copper plate over the hole I am trying to patch up. that way I can tack in a patch and then get rid of the magnet so the distortion and interference to the weld is gone for a nicer finished weld. it does stutter and spit because of the magnet but if you work alone and can't be under the truck and still weld on the inside.....at least the patch gets tacked in before the magnet goes away. I have thought about a C clamp with more offset. maybe build one if I get a minute. |
12-24-2020, 10:50 AM | #6 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
hi raven is it just me or does trying to mig weld around magnets make for weird reaction? lots of spitting and sputtering like as if gas isnt turned on?
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12-24-2020, 11:08 AM | #7 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Yup, magnets distort the weld somehow. Not sure on the theory of it all. I usually just use them to tack and once the pieces are stuck together
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12-24-2020, 11:22 AM | #8 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Once the parts are stuck I remove the magnets and tack a few other spots, then grind off the crappy tacks.
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12-24-2020, 11:45 AM | #9 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
its when tacking i notice it
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12-24-2020, 12:38 PM | #10 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
I have noticed that before when tacking, so I Googled it.
Here you go Do magnets affect welding? When using magnets to hold parts for tack-welding, keep the magnets away (at least 6'' )from the spot you're welding. Magnets make a strong field that disrupts the arc. Welding close to a magnet can be very difficult or impossible.
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12-24-2020, 12:48 PM | #11 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Thanks Temptest. as they say google is your friend.
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12-24-2020, 02:26 PM | #12 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
comin along nicely!
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02-15-2021, 11:44 AM | #13 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Question about your lower dash. How wide is it?
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02-15-2021, 03:21 PM | #14 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Hey 62barnfind lower dash is 4" props to Ogre for pics i followed his for my diy.
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02-15-2021, 11:43 PM | #15 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Coming in late on this thread but I'm impressed with everything you've done.
You're planning to make the dash extension using fiberglass? It looks like flat thin plywood strips and the bottom curve is a cut shipping tube. Is that about right? How did you bend the plywood to follow the curves of the dash at the ends? I wonder if table saw cuts half way through would be enough or not? Also wonder how the cut shipping tube will follow that bend? EDIT: Just went back to post #56 and I see a separate piece of plywood curve at the ends. BUT... is the long straight piece held on in some way? I'm thinking a 1x1 or a piece of small angle iron screwed to the underside of the dash?
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02-16-2021, 10:22 PM | #16 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Hi Dan thanks for the encouragement.its goes without saying this site is a great source of ideas. onto the dash extension. it is 1/4" plywood for main length. the ends are glued on with PL premium. and a couple small nails. a couple hidden screws holding sides to body. mailing tube is used for curved on bottom. i just shaped regular cardboard for end corners. it is going to be mounted to bottom of dash with some old pieces of shelving channel.i went with 73-87 chev truck emergency brake pedal. as i would not have been able to put extension on drivers side with underdash pull handle .
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07-31-2022, 07:16 PM | #17 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Quote:
Thanks, Jim |
08-02-2022, 09:19 AM | #18 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
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08-02-2022, 11:48 AM | #19 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Gotcha. I didn't see where it hangs just beneath dash extension in the other pic. Thanks!
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01-02-2023, 03:30 PM | #20 | |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Quote:
Thanks much, Jim. |
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01-14-2023, 07:14 PM | #21 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
hey Jim i made a bracket for mount hole under dash .i will take a pic.
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02-17-2021, 12:11 AM | #22 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
What’s the p/b pedal assembly out of ?
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02-17-2021, 09:14 AM | #23 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
Hey G&R's57GMC the park brake pedal is out of a 1980 chev truck. one hood hinge bolt hole lines up.i had to weld small strip for other hole.made a bracket for mounting hole under dash area. other years both hood hinge bolts line up according to some.
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04-16-2021, 08:55 PM | #24 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
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04-18-2021, 08:10 PM | #25 |
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Re: 1956 3100 build
awesome work and great looking truck!! Hows the 2008 yukon seats for driving position in the truck and for comfort in relationship to where the pedals go and position? Steering wheel? Thanks
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