1956 3100 build

[Ol Blue K20]

That thing is looking nice. Thanks for the update.

[56 3100]

thanks dale. these mods are on my to do list need i need to do smooth firewall soon so i can send cab back to my bodyman to finish.:

[56 3100]

i want to say thanks and give credit to everyone i messaged and any i borrowed ideas from. here is pics of my firewall in progress.template first


some magnets to hold in place.

lots of small welds time consuming but no warpage! used wet rag to cool welds not shown.

seat mounts for 3rd row tahoe seats using speedway motors flat tracks.


do seats look better with headrest or without?

[Ol Blue K20]

I think they look better without them .

[G&R's57GMC]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I think they look better without them .

But your head will feel better with them

[56 3100]

headrest come off easy so will trial it when up and running. here is my attempt at steering column cover and dash extension. credits to Ogre on this
forum for the details on his build page. winging it from there.

[Rickysnickers]

Question regarding the firewall panels. This may sound like a dumb question, but here it goes. How do you attach the top edge of the panel to the actual firewall? Is it welded, panel bond, or? If it's welded how do you carefully grind down the welds?

[56 3100]

Hi Ricky i welded the panels on. small welds cool with with wet rag and repeat. no visable distortion. i used edge of mini grinder wheel for around edges. it was time consuming. will post pic shortly

[56 3100]

[QUOTE=56 3100;8852741]Hi Ricky i welded the panels on. small welds cool with with wet rag and repeat. no visable distortion. i used edge of mini grinder wheel for around edges. it was time consuming.

[Rickysnickers]

Wow, thank you. Very nice job!!!

[56 3100]

thanks Ricky. i talked to JML55 on this forum and he gave some pointers. i welded some holes from under dash. i found this link here as well that really helped.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1204...ng-a-firewall/
next job has been i flattened a piece of copper tube and used foil tape to stick it to under cab on floor to weld up all holes previous seats mounting holes . filled in all other holes not needed in floor as well.




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[dsraven]

that's improvising, sweet.
I have a C clamp that I cut the bottom leg off (so now it looks like a 1/2 c clamp) and screwed a magnet to that part. it sticks well to flat surfaces like a floor or firewall. then the adjustment part I use to screw down a copper plate over the hole I am trying to patch up. that way I can tack in a patch and then get rid of the magnet so the distortion and interference to the weld is gone for a nicer finished weld. it does stutter and spit because of the magnet but if you work alone and can't be under the truck and still weld on the inside.....at least the patch gets tacked in before the magnet goes away. I have thought about a C clamp with more offset. maybe build one if I get a minute.

[56 3100]

hi raven is it just me or does trying to mig weld around magnets make for weird reaction? lots of spitting and sputtering like as if gas isnt turned on?

[dsraven]

Yup, magnets distort the weld somehow. Not sure on the theory of it all. I usually just use them to tack and once the pieces are stuck together

[dsraven]

Once the parts are stuck I remove the magnets and tack a few other spots, then grind off the crappy tacks.

[56 3100]

its when tacking i notice it

[Tempest67]

I have noticed that before when tacking, so I Googled it.

Here you go


Do magnets affect welding?
When using magnets to hold parts for tack-welding, keep the magnets away (at least 6'' )from the spot you're welding. Magnets make a strong field that disrupts the arc. Welding close to a magnet can be very difficult or impossible.

[56 3100]

Thanks Temptest. as they say google is your friend.

[slammed57]

comin along nicely!

[56 3100]

Thanks slammed looked over your build pretty wicked.

[56 3100]

back at it!got inner fenders trimmed around camaro a arms. and front sheet metal test fit.

[62 Barnfind]

Question about your lower dash. How wide is it?

[56 3100]

Hey 62barnfind lower dash is 4" props to Ogre for pics i followed his for my diy.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Coming in late on this thread but I'm impressed with everything you've done.

You're planning to make the dash extension using fiberglass? It looks like flat thin plywood strips and the bottom curve is a cut shipping tube. Is that about right? How did you bend the plywood to follow the curves of the dash at the ends? I wonder if table saw cuts half way through would be enough or not? Also wonder how the cut shipping tube will follow that bend?

EDIT: Just went back to post #56 and I see a separate piece of plywood curve at the ends. BUT... is the long straight piece held on in some way? I'm thinking a 1x1 or a piece of small angle iron screwed to the underside of the dash?

[56 3100]

Hi Dan thanks for the encouragement.its goes without saying this site is a great source of ideas. onto the dash extension. it is 1/4" plywood for main length. the ends are glued on with PL premium. and a couple small nails. a couple hidden screws holding sides to body. mailing tube is used for curved on bottom. i just shaped regular cardboard for end corners. it is going to be mounted to bottom of dash with some old pieces of shelving channel.i went with 73-87 chev truck emergency brake pedal. as i would not have been able to put extension on drivers side with underdash pull handle .