Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[dug224]

Originally Posted by DeeGee

I think you should revisit the wheel choice and do something like this...way cool!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJPTSaARlvs

Nice....but I think I am over the clear wheel thing. Back to real OEM aluminum. Dug

[dug224]

Moving slowly but sill moving....Ended up getting a bargain on a 2004 Aluminum Block 5.3LS and the matching 4L60E transimssion with 66k miles out of a 2004 Envoy XL. They had it on the shelf for about 2 years. I also got all of the accessories that came with this engine except for the alternator.

Learning about what wiring stays and what wiring goes and trying to decide if I should modify the wiring or buy a wiring set completed. I was relieved that the transmission consumed about half of the open electrical plugs on the wiring harness. Pretty good source on the internet from a hands on guy who is selling his programming services.

http://lt1swap.com/programming.htm

Searching for a set of factory lower engine brackets that mount to the frame and have yet to find any cheap. The brackets I have are cast iron and are for the in-line 6 and will not work. Remember, I am basically putting an old body on a Trailblazer/Envoy frame and installing an engine that would have come in that vehicle so not a lot of heaving lifting like many of you are doing. May end up fabricating the engine brackets to take advantage of lowering the engine as low as possible in the frame. It also gives me an excuse to use my new Lincoln toy.......

.....I bought a new-in-the-box 110V Lincoln Plasma 20. Could not pass up the deal at $450. Retail at Lowes is $999 plus tax. It should be able to handle the light stuff I wil be cutting. Supposed to cut up to 1/4" hard stuff including SS and up to 3/8" mild steel.

[_Ogre]

live and learn, at least you didn't have a lot of money tied up in that motor

glad you liked the molded bed and spear idea

[dug224]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

live and learn, at least you didn't have a lot of money tied up in that motor

glad you liked the molded bed and spear idea

Ogre!!! I blew it.....After reading one of your other posts and noticing your masking tape bumper sticker regarding Motown, I realized I missed an opportunity to see your truck in real life. Just spent the entire week in Downtown Detroit on business. At least I got to see your incredible fireworks display. Maybe next time...dug

[dug224]

Finally found some time to work on the truck. Got the rear Envoy body mounts tacked to the frame. I first bolted them to the body and then lowered on to the frame and tacked with the stick welder. Was going to use the MIG since I had been practicing with it but I ran out of gas.

Disassembled the front sheetmetal so I could get to the front mounts that had to be cut off the frame. Got the drivers side cut off and will move it around to line up with the factory body location. You can see where I cut the mount and you can see where the bolt is that it has to meet. Will have to trim the end that mounts to the frame slightly. Will have to trim the rounded in as well. It hits the body.

[Kim57]

Nice score on the engine/trans.
Kim

[DeeGee]

Agreed...good score on the engine & trans. Are you planning to run it stock? The programmer guy looks like he has all the bases covered and $75 sounds reasonable.

[dug224]

DeeGee: Sticking with the stock approach for now. Went on a boat ride the other day and came home with a water front lot in Orange Beach, AL which I am sure will become a major distraction from the truck. This is what hapens when you see a for sale sign and make the mistake of asking "what's the deal with this lot?". My buddies response was the "you wont believe how cheap it is". He was right. Will need a dependable daily driver to get the new house (at least one year away) built so that is what I will focus on. The good news is that house is on piers 12 feet in the air and all he space under the house will be my new air conditioned garage. Maybe after the house build, I can squeeze some more horsepower out of it.

Got the brackets for the engine yesterday and got the engine and transmission installed this morning. Looks like the transmission does not quite reach the cross member in my 6 cylinder frame and the trans opening in the cab may need to be trimmed. May have to make a bracket for the tailpiece. Otherwise, the thing fits perfectly with the exception of having to shorten two of the bolts for the frame motor mounts that touch the 5.3 motor mounts. Would have done it with my new Plasma Cutter but somebody swiped it from the guy I was buying it from fortunately before I paid him.

Will have to mount the fender and hood to determine once and for all if I can go with the location of the cab (vertically) that resulted from the earlier stance study. If so, no suspension lowering will be required. Should be able to get this done by the end of this coming weekend. There appears to be plenty of room between the firewall and the engine.

[ricott]

Your truck looks great and good luck with the house project. In the earlier pictures (where you had it loaded with sand to get to your projected final stance), did you happen to measure from the ground to the Rockers? I like the stance, and am evaluating ideas for a 1955 stepside that I have. I too have a friend in the salvage business. He has a 2004 Envoy that had an interior fire that would be a great platform to begin. My wife has an Envoy Denali that rides like a caddie, so the more I think about it, the better your plan looks.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Your truck looks great and good luck with the house project. In the earlier pictures (where you had it loaded with sand to get to your projected final stance), did you happen to measure from the ground to the Rockers? I like the stance, and am evaluating ideas for a 1955 stepside that I have. I too have a friend in the salvage business. He has a 2004 Envoy that had an interior fire that would be a great platform to begin. My wife has an Envoy Denali that rides like a caddie, so the more I think about it, the better your plan looks.

Ricott: Thanks. The only thing more fun than building a house is building this truck.

Let me start by saying that the credit for the plan goes to Dynacorn & Lingenfelter. It stopped me in my tracks immediately and headed me off into this direction.

The measurement that keeps showing up that looks right to my eye is the dimension from the front of the rocker panel (at the rear of the front fender) nearest to the ground and it is 9"+/-. The lip of the front fender is 27" off of the ground at the center of the wheel and the back one is 24-3/8" which will be meaningless to you since you have a stepside. Once I get the fenders and hood on today, I will give you some new dimensions for the front. Not in the mood to reload the back suspension this weekend with sand so those dimensions will have to wait.

Other things to remember if you head down the T.B./Envoy path is...
- The wheel offset is not old school looking. You don't get the deep dish look which took some getting used to for me.
- Although I have tentatively chosen not to do so, the frame is strechable by merely grinding a few welds and pulling the frames halves apart. I intend to shorten my bed and/or tighten cap between cab and frame to get the wheels located properly in the wheel openings.
- Based on my research and what I have seen at car auctions, GM did not make a ton of 5.3 powerer T.B.'s/Envoy's. Ideally, had I waited on a wrecked 5.3 powered frame, I would mostly into body work rather than figuring out what I am missing and trying to adapt the 5.3 stuff to the 6 cyl frame. Still having more fun than should be allowed.
- My attempt to keep all the stock suspension travel may make locating the radiator a challenge. Based on the last time I mocked up the body, the frame rails were very high into the area where the radiator belongs. I will take some photos today on what I will have to do to notch the frame to get the radiator under the hood.

Assume you have a thread going...if not, get busy and get some photos up there so we all can enjoy.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Your truck looks great and good luck with the house project. In the earlier pictures (where you had it loaded with sand to get to your projected final stance), did you happen to measure from the ground to the Rockers? I like the stance, and am evaluating ideas for a 1955 stepside that I have. I too have a friend in the salvage business. He has a 2004 Envoy that had an interior fire that would be a great platform to begin. My wife has an Envoy Denali that rides like a caddie, so the more I think about it, the better your plan looks.

ricott: I may not be right on the 9" dimension I mentioned. Fenders and hood are on and I am at 11.5" which is slightly higher looking than I remember liking. Once I get the radiator, engine accessories, bumper, etc. installed, it may compress another inch or so.

[Kim57]

Looks like you're going to get it to fit just fine.
Kim

[ricott]

Thanks for the update on the body height. I don't have a build blog on this vehicle at this time as my son and I are finishing up a frame off restomod of a 1966 GTO for him. The car has a 6 Liter Escalade engine with a T56 six speed from a 2000 Camaro. We are completing the wiring of the car right now, and will be installing the glass this weekend. When I bought the 55 pickup earlier this spring I thought we would be finished with the GTO by now - but we all know how deadlines slip!!! I went to my friend's salvage yard today and discussed my plan to use a Trail Blazer/Envoy frame on my 55 pickup. He has 13 of these vehicles on his yard. One was a 2005 with 27,000 miles, and another was a 2005 extended cab that had a cab fire. I will continue to follow your build, and I'm sure this is the way I will be going.

The build of the GTO is at Hotrodders.com - Projects and builds section - under 1966GTO.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Thanks for the update on the body height. I don't have a build blog on this vehicle at this time as my son and I are finishing up a frame off restomod of a 1966 GTO for him. The car has a 6 Liter Escalade engine with a T56 six speed from a 2000 Camaro. We are completing the wiring of the car right now, and will be installing the glass this weekend. When I bought the 55 pickup earlier this spring I thought we would be finished with the GTO by now - but we all know how deadlines slip!!! I went to my friend's salvage yard today and discussed my plan to use a Trail Blazer/Envoy frame on my 55 pickup. He has 13 of these vehicles on his yard. One was a 2005 with 27,000 miles, and another was a 2005 extended cab that had a cab fire. I will continue to follow your build, and I'm sure this is the way I will be going.

The build of the GTO is at Hotrodders.com - Projects and builds section - under 1966GTO.

Man..you are busy. I visited the 1966GTO build. Surprised the hood closes over all that engine. Great project. The '58 Corvette is one of my all time favorites. May have to touch base with you when I get to the wiring.

[1project2many]

As for the wiring, I will take the DIY approach. Not freaked out about the technical aspects, just the tediousness of reducing the number of circuits.

Try dragging the harness into the living room so you can work with it while watching TV. Your wife's reaction will make the job seem much less tedious.

Actually, I reworked a Toyota truck engine harness in my kitchen over about a month so it would fit a GM computer. I did the work while watching my newborn son in the evenings. I find that part of the project goes better if combined with other tasks to break up the monotony.

[dug224]

Got busy again today and spent a couple of hours measuring and measuring and measuring so I can start attaching the body to the frame. As I mentioned, nothing is symetrical about this frame and, as a result, the cab actually sits about 0.5" off center to the right. Got the rear cab mounts fabricated and sitting on top of the frame ready to be welded. Used the ones I cut off the new frame including the rubber. You can see where they were cut off the frame just to the right and down in the closeup. Once I pin down the rear, I will be able to take all the front sheet metal back off and get the front cab mounts in place.

Trimmed the core support mounting points off and slid it down between the front sheet metal and frame ends. Almost looks like I did it on purpose. Will require more fitting and some fresh mounting points. Will proabably use the core support mounts that came off the new frame for this as well.

[1955 mancave]

Originally Posted by ricott

Thanks for the update on the body height. I don't have a build blog on this vehicle at this time as my son and I are finishing up a frame off restomod of a 1966 GTO for him. The car has a 6 Liter Escalade engine with a T56 six speed from a 2000 Camaro. We are completing the wiring of the car right now, and will be installing the glass this weekend. When I bought the 55 pickup earlier this spring I thought we would be finished with the GTO by now - but we all know how deadlines slip!!! I went to my friend's salvage yard today and discussed my plan to use a Trail Blazer/Envoy frame on my 55 pickup. He has 13 of these vehicles on his yard. One was a 2005 with 27,000 miles, and another was a 2005 extended cab that had a cab fire. I will continue to follow your build, and I'm sure this is the way I will be going.

The build of the GTO is at Hotrodders.com - Projects and builds section - under 1966GTO.

wow do I have lots of questions !! on the TB/Envoy frame ? I was not aware that there was an extended cab ? or are you talking about another frame ? next it sounds like you have friends in the salvage yard business , but what do you guys think is a fair price for a chassis ??
thanks.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by 1955 mancave

wow do I have lots of questions !! on the TB/Envoy frame ? I was not aware that there was an extended cab ? or are you talking about another frame ? next it sounds like you have friends in the salvage yard business , but what do you guys think is a fair price for a chassis ??
thanks.

Ricky (Ricott, you referenced above) is hard at making an extended cab version of the truck. He bought straight front and rear sections of two different frames and put them together. TB's come in a couple of different lengths. He is using the TB floorpan for his truck which I am not. I am using a SWB frame while I believe Ricky bought the LWB version. The cool thing is that the removal of a select few welds you can change the length of frame either way. Not sure what a good deal is but I paid $800 for a complete frame less engine, trans and wheels. Front suspension, rear end, spare tire (and tools), fuel tank, brakes, frame wiring harness (which i did not use) were still in place. The front left horn was bent but I cut it off to fit the truck. Like I have said before, if you are lucky enough to find a wrecked TB with a 5.3 (or better, an SS with a 6.0), you will be way ahead on the body swap. Don't know exactly how much I have in the project making the 5.3 fit but I suspect I could have paid $3k for a wreck and saved a lot of effort and maybe some money....but, then again, the build is why I am doing it. Would have never learned how to explode an engine wiring harness!!!!. Dug

[1955 mancave]

1st and formost I would like to thank you for your time to respond .

okay well here I go, I have found a chassis and I'm in the process of negotiating a price, I here you about the build that's the part I love , if you search my projects you will see the 64 1 ton I just completed , but now I'm looking for something that I can use for my DD I just don't want to have a truck that everyone else has , I also want to be able to drive it across country and the to the store.
back to the truck. I wonder since what I want is a 4x4 I would like it it on a 2000 and later frame , I do wonder how the track width would work ?

Originally Posted by dug224

Ricky (Ricott, you referenced above) is hard at making an extended cab version of the truck. He bought straight front and rear sections of two different frames and put them together. TB's come in a couple of different lengths. He is using the TB floorpan for his truck which I am not. I am using a SWB frame while I believe Ricky bought the LWB version. The cool thing is that the removal of a select few welds you can change the length of frame either way. Not sure what a good deal is but I paid $800 for a complete frame less engine, trans and wheels. Front suspension, rear end, spare tire (and tools), fuel tank, brakes, frame wiring harness (which i did not use) were still in place. The front left horn was bent but I cut it off to fit the truck. Like I have said before, if you are lucky enough to find a wrecked TB with a 5.3 (or better, an SS with a 6.0), you will be way ahead on the body swap. Don't know exactly how much I have in the project making the 5.3 fit but I suspect I could have paid $3k for a wreck and saved a lot of effort and maybe some money....but, then again, the build is why I am doing it. Would have never learned how to explode an engine wiring harness!!!!. Dug

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Looks like you're going to get it to fit just fine.
Kim

Just takes time. Just when I thought I would head into the fabricating something like you, I chickened out on the new core support. Will see where the old one takes me. May have to fab one after the heckling my buddy Jim gave me.

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by dug224

Just takes time. Just when I thought I would head into the fabricating something like you, I chickened out on the new core support. Will see where the old one takes me. May have to fab one after the heckling my buddy Jim gave me.

I think you're doing a great job on your build.
Looks like you can mount some tabs higher up on the core support to mount on top of your frame.
Kim

[ricott]

You are really making great progress with getting the cab mounted. I will be asking for reference points and heights soon! You mentioned that you were a DIY person related to the wiring (and everything else it appears!). From the looks of your engine, it appears you could have this engine running in short order. If you purchase a Trailblazer SS underhood fuse block the engine harness will bolt to it to power the engine. Then all you need are 4 or 5 wires out of the Trailblazer SS underhood fuseblock connected for the engine to run. If you didn't get it, you will need to purchase a 2003-2005 computer (I have the number here at the house) from any chevy pickup that had a 5.3 engine (almost all), and you will need a Drive by Wire accelerator petal (can also be found in 2003-2005 pickups). You will need to have the "Theft" turned off in the computer (and while they are at it they can delete the rear O2 sensors - both can be done for less than $100 from several mail order shops - I can give you some names if you like, or go over to LS1Tech and look in the conversions and hybrids section and they can point you in the right direction). The 5.3 pickup tune will run this engine perfectly (in my opinion) as long as you don't change the cam or injectors.
Great gob documenting the build, you will save me countless hours on the frame fabrication part, I hope I can try and save you some time figuring out the wiring part.

Ricky

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

You are really making great progress with getting the cab mounted. I will be asking for reference points and heights soon! You mentioned that you were a DIY person related to the wiring (and everything else it appears!). From the looks of your engine, it appears you could have this engine running in short order. If you purchase a Trailblazer SS underhood fuse block the engine harness will bolt to it to power the engine. Then all you need are 4 or 5 wires out of the Trailblazer SS underhood fuseblock connected for the engine to run. If you didn't get it, you will need to purchase a 2003-2005 computer (I have the number here at the house) from any chevy pickup that had a 5.3 engine (almost all), and you will need a Drive by Wire accelerator petal (can also be found in 2003-2005 pickups). You will need to have the "Theft" turned off in the computer (and while they are at it they can delete the rear O2 sensors - both can be done for less than $100 from several mail order shops - I can give you some names if you like, or go over to LS1Tech and look in the conversions and hybrids section and they can point you in the right direction). The 5.3 pickup tune will run this engine perfectly (in my opinion) as long as you don't change the cam or injectors.
Great gob documenting the build, you will save me countless hours on the frame fabrication part, I hope I can try and save you some time figuring out the wiring part.

Ricky

Ricky: You summed it up nicely. I did get the computer. In search of a drive by wire throttle body and pedal. Not normally missing. The engine sat around so long that it got robbed. There is a pair available on a 4.8 that just rolled in but was not sure that is is the same one that is on a 5.3. Will have to check.

Why the T.B. SS under hood fuse box? Can it be the stock fuse box out of a 5.3 T.B.? Finding one out of an SS seems like pretty low odds and I know I can get the stock one.

I don't intend to change the cam or injectors at this time so all the goods that came on the engine should bring it back to life in stock running condition. The best thing I did after loading the engine on the trailer was walk back in and have the counter man search his database for all of the parts/accessories that came specifically on that engine. He had everything except alternator and throttle body.....and bolts. Getting all the bolts off of the 4.8 that just rolled in and I left the dismantler a bucket that he is filling it with metric bolts.

Don't forget, the engine that fits these frames has a front sump oil pan that goes over the rack so, unless you get an engine out of a T.B., Envoy, Ascender or Ranier, it will have to be changed.

[ricott]

Your driveline angle should be no more than 4 degrees down, but it needs to match the driveline angle of your pinion. I have a digital angle finder (easier on my poor eyes) that I use. I level the frame rails front to back (any jacking done to level, I do on the front to keep the rear wheels as loaded as possible). I then zero my digital angle finder and attach it to the pinion yoke. If it reads + 3, then I attach it to the tranny output shaft and move the tranny up or down until it reads - 3. Hope this helps. I was looking at the driveline tunnel on my wife's 07 5.3 Envoy last night trying to anticipate cab problems. It sure looks like you will need a center tunnel to achieve full driveline travel (my plan is to set the cab at around 3 inches over the frame). One question, it appears the part of the motor mounts that bolt to the frame and the rubber cushion are the same between the 6 and the V8, can you confirm? I found a 5.3 envoy oil pan/pickup tube and windage tray, I'm looking for the motor mounts.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Your driveline angle should be no more than 4 degrees down, but it needs to match the driveline angle of your pinion. I have a digital angle finder (easier on my poor eyes) that I use. I level the frame rails front to back (any jacking done to level, I do on the front to keep the rear wheels as loaded as possible). I then zero my digital angle finder and attach it to the pinion yoke. If it reads + 3, then I attach it to the tranny output shaft and move the tranny up or down until it reads - 3. Hope this helps. I was looking at the driveline tunnel on my wife's 07 5.3 Envoy last night trying to anticipate cab problems. It sure looks like you will need a center tunnel to achieve full driveline travel (my plan is to set the cab at around 3 inches over the frame). One question, it appears the part of the motor mounts that bolt to the frame and the rubber cushion are the same between the 6 and the V8, can you confirm? I found a 5.3 envoy oil pan/pickup tube and windage tray, I'm looking for the motor mounts.

The motor mount rubber and the lower bracket are absolutely NOT the same between the V8 and inline 6. I found a pair in Arkansas and paid $80 for the pair including shipping. Dealer wanted $150 each. They dropped right in. One of the three bolts that holds the bracket to the frame actually hits the rubber part of the engine mount so I will trim off them by an inch or so. Bought new motor mounts and paid about $45 each for those from the Chevy dealer.

Right now, my cab is 5" off the frame in the front and 4.25" in ther rear. If you drop your cab to 3" off the frame, it will definitely need a larger trans tunnel.

Thanks for the driveline angle lesson. I will step back and rethink this a bit.