1950 LQ9 conversion

[wyldwest]

Detroit 3100 any idea on after market harness and re flashing the computer, and do you need the pressurized fuel tank and how about the antilock brake sensors... I just have a few questions =). I'm considering the same swap!!

[Detroit3100]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

I don't know how true it is, but someone told me that when you remove the center crossmsmber and cab you might have trouble lining up the hood when you start the re assembly. So let me know how your mock up goes on re assembly !!!!

I am not going to touch that, too much strength there.

Originally Posted by wyldwest

Detroit 3100 any idea on after market harness and re flashing the computer, and do you need the pressurized fuel tank and how about the antilock brake sensors... I just have a few questions =). I'm considering the same swap!!

I want to make my own harness. I have a real good tuner who I can send the PCM to tune, remove emissions and security. fuel tank I am looking @ the summit one. external pump fliter and my engine has a return type fuel system so there is a line going back to the tank. I am looking for a more rat rod fuel system but have not had any info for keeping the EFI but using old school fuel pumps???
ABS-dont know, but I dont think the engine PCM controls the brake system.
New pics.
THe hole I cut for new floor pans.

Engine

Aired down

[Detroit3100]

[Detroit3100]

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks like you guys are makeing some progress keep up the good work.

[Detroit3100]

my garage fell on the truck. crushed the cab roof pretty good. I am looking for a new home for this sad

[poncho_villa]

Originally Posted by Detroit3100

my garage fell on the truck. crushed the cab roof pretty good. I am looking for a new home for this sad

Huge bummer. That's not the kind of update we were all hoping for. Snow load on the garage roof make it collapse?? Is the cab roof repairable?

[2ndGenRR]

Detroit3100 - I have an extra 3-window cab...rusted junk from the door handles south, but the roof section is good. You are welcome to it. I'm in the Grand Rapids, Michigan area. PM me if you are interested.

[Detroit3100]

update. sorry no pics...yet.

I moved, got a garage, garage is like truck...both need new roofs
I put a new roof on the garage.
I am back to thinking about finishing a project I started cough...half my life ago...cough
So I am looking for a new cab and old projects in my area and I want to drive this before I die, work on it with my sons, and give it to them.

Looking at the damage...its not that bad, I think the doors will still work, so untill Ii find different the rat rod/steam punk theme just got a big helping of patina...a pitna sunroof you might say.

I need to organize my tasks...pull the cab/bed back off after the move and nail down the frame/drivetrain.

I grab pics to get you guys interested.
other updates:
I have he software to program the GM Gen III Pcm. I am no HPtuners pro, but its an added tool.
My buddy has been hiding a miller plasma cutter and 110 mig welder, so I finally go them to my garage. have this turbo manifold I built for the LQ9.

I welcome any suggestions for a method to this madness.

[Detroit3100]

I am putting this thing back together!!!! I have a little motivation, not shooting for any trophies, just want it back on the road. I know if I get it back, that my kids will get to enjoy it. Pics to come soon. I have the bed on and figuring out the bed floor. Gonna put doors back on and see if I can sub assemble the front sheet metal. three main areas:
1. powertrin
2. suspension.
3. body.
going to work on the body and getting it rolling and then I can set the motor trans in place..

[Detroit3100]

budget fender welting for the box. rubber roofing material. This was a test, I am going to cut long strips and punch the holes out and cut reliefs.

Gathering parts, front end is all accounted for. After I get the cab repaired I will bolt these up. Wanna have this as a unit so I can pull it off as one assembly while I am finishing plumbing/wiring.


and I have photobucket on my phone so I am going to take plenty of pics

[Detroit3100]

Sheet metal repair parts were just ordered from Top Banana. Will report back. Did a frankenstin job to a rear fender but it will work for the shop truck.

Need to find some 1/4 thick rubber for the cab/bed mounts any suggestions??

Also Mounted the drivers door for the cab repair fit and also pulled the rest of the LQ9 harness off the motor and gathered the underhood fuse panel for wiring. Gonna try to use the underhood panel for all of the truck and add the needed wiring.

[OrrieG]

If you are near a farm and ranch type store, they sell high density rubber horse trailer flooring material. Cuts with a box knife.

[oldcouple]

You can cut some pretty neat washers with a hole saw out of those urethane bumpers that you find on the free way as well.

[sgtusmc]

Originally Posted by Detroit3100

Sheet metal repair parts were just ordered from Top Banana. Will report back. Did a frankenstin job to a rear fender but it will work for the shop truck.

Need to find some 1/4 thick rubber for the cab/bed mounts any suggestions??

Also Mounted the drivers door for the cab repair fit and also pulled the rest of the LQ9 harness off the motor and gathered the underhood fuse panel for wiring. Gonna try to use the underhood panel for all of the truck and add the needed wiring.

I'm use'n semi truck mud flaps for my 59 build on my mounts. I picked up one at a truck stop for $10 bucks. It's 20"x26" 1/4" thick with a 2" border thats 3/4".

[duwem]

Keep posting pictures and information.

I have a LQ9 and 1950 and they will go together some day in the future.

I'm doing the C4 Corvette suspension so it will be interesting to see what I need to do for an oil pan to clear that crossmember...

[Detroit3100]

sheet metal arrived today. thats good service, thanks top banana. Will post pic's when I get the tools out. Dang I might make a big step this weekend if I can weld these pieces into place.

[Detroit3100]

just got back from HD and got some flap discs, primer, rust converter, more primer, some flat army green paint
I am going to try and get the worst side done, I have it the most cut out. Pull the door...

How would you prep the inner area before it is welded closed? How many spot welds are there on the upper part of the cowl? I have them out on the side, but I still need to melt the ole lead out to find the upper edge. How tuff is the old one in there?

[Detroit3100]

[Detroit3100]

ANyone have any tips for getting a door and jam back in shape?? It looks like this door was over-opened, replaceing the creased/dented cowl is first step, but I took to the door and man there was 3/4 in of bondo over an old pulled dent Looking for a new door...so much progress to get stuck, what should I do??

[Detroit3100]

Hey guys I am still here...I need advise bad. What should I focus on?? I am lost with all the details. Anyone have some direction that will help get this thing going???

I think I need to pull the cab back off and focus on the frame/driveline/brakes/rear end...and not worry about the sheetmetal till I have the driveline ironed out.

Anyone else have any tips to get this project back moving in a direction???? thanks

[ricott]

First of all, congratulation on your project. You’ve got a great start, and the journey is half the fun. Personally, I would attempt to get the drive train finished to the point that you could crank and hear it run. It really isn't that far. My son and I are on the last lap of an almost 5 year frame off build restomodding a 66 GTO. We have the same engine as you (2006 Escalade) with a T56 behind it. When we had the car down to the frame rails with the engine mocked up, we used a truck computer (with the Theft turned Off) and wiring harness from a 2002 truck (my son wanted drive by cable, so we used an earlier computer), and a fuse block from the same model truck. The engine harness plugs into the truck fuse block, and there are only 4 (maybe 5) wires that have to be plugged in to the bottom of the truck fuse block to crank the engine and have it run. We used the thread set up by "Jeepinpete" on the LS1Tech website. Because we didn't have a fuel tank at the time, we sprayed gas into the intake, then engaged the starter. The engine came right to life. For a gearhead, that is the best sound around, it will really make you want to work again. It is also good for doubting spouses and children that may think you are crazy!!!

[bwilli2]

I feel the pain. If you look at everything as a whole, it gets overwhelming. There's nothing wrong with jumping from sheet metal then back to drive line, then to electrical IF you can keep track of what you are doing and keep it all straight. Jumping around can keep boredom from setting in or help get past that frustrating part.

The flip side is you have lots of 'distractions' of stuff that all needs attention. Hard to finish any one thing if you spread yourself too thin.

So, AN approach, not THE approach:
Once you have an idea as to what your end goal is in general, typically work from the ground up: Frame, Front Suspension, Rear Suspension, brake system, Power train, fuel system, electrical, sheet metal, glass, interior. Lots of folks start with wheels and tires. Truly ground up.

With re-ordering as necessary, like your engine choice may dictate fuel system stuff be done in parallel. Or suspension may drive brake systems.

I wrapped up my cab and am storing it outside while I'm working on my frame. The goal was to free up space in the shop, but an interesting side effect is I don't find myself thinking about the sheet metal work ahead of me as much while I'm working on the frame.

For what it's worth. Good luck! As long as you keep doing SOMETHING I still count that as progress.

[OrrieG]

The way my brain works is after I have it down on paper I quit worrying about everything except the current task. Do it for work or I would go crazy. Make a list (I use excell so I can move things around or add sub tasks) then figure your critical path (what needs to be done to keep moving forward). For instance right now I have 3 things, getting the ac hoses figured out and fabbed so I can mount the unit under the dash and get the diffusers, etc. in. Second is the gas filler which is keeping me from finishing the bed and firing the engine. Third is the one piece door glass which is keeping be from modifying the doors, painting the insides and hanging them to work on the gaps. Lots of other things to do, but these are what I am priortizing my funds for.

Once you have the list you can focus on the task and quit worrying about forgetting something or what comes next. I looked at a lot of the builds here to get an idea of the sequence, most guys are pretty good about pointing out where they had to retrace their steps.

A cold 12 pack doesn't hurt either, I have spent many hours just sitting in a camp chair with a beer looking at the truck and building it in my mind.

[spartakus]

new guy here. mostly just read here but, your last post beckoned me, so to speak - so i speak now.

where your at on your build - im more or less in the same spot.

fwiw, I grew tired of cab work also (including cowls, kick panels, floor, cab corners, etc) and went back to my frame also. can be overwhelming.

however, i really could only go so far w/ the frame cuz, im using all aftermarket suspension, powertrain and all that jazz too. you need, (or i need) the cab done w/ the outer cowls done to mock up a fender so ill know for certain where the wheel is centered in the fender. then i can mock up whats left of a bedside to make sure where my rear wheel will be centered also. plus getting the cab done will help me visualize ride height and stance for welding in the suspension permanent with respect to crossmember angle and then later rear end pinion angle too. which relates to my ls motor angle and thus tailshaft angle also... everything ties together

i think i know precisely what your going through. you can probably get some stuff done on the frame but i thought id just let you know my perspective about the cab.

like the other guy said, i use a lot of lists to organize my thoughts or the process and attempt to follow an order of steps or a plan of sort.

btw, i had bought another parts truck that had the same problem w/ the cowls from apparently the door opening to far also. weird

good luck