Dropmember in a 69 C10

[PBFAB.COM]

Rokcrln- C4 rear suspension = as big as or larger notch or step than you would have to run with a strait axle. The half-shafts have to be parallel to the ground at ride-height. C4 or any other IRS is a lot of work... but can also be extremely cool! The 69 that we're doing the dropmember install on will also have one of our backhalves with the canti-levered shockwaves like this 55 we recently finished.

[SCOTI]

That's sweet!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Rokcrln- C4 rear suspension = as big as or larger notch or step than you would have to run with a strait axle. The half-shafts have to be parallel to the ground at ride-height. C4 or any other IRS is a lot of work... but can also be extremely cool! The 69 that we're doing the dropmember install on will also have one of our backhalves with the canti-levered shockwaves like this 55 we recently finished.

Yes I agree it is alot of work but that is most of the fun! As far as a bigger notch that seams it would only be if you went with a canti set up. I am thinking of doing a duel shock wave set up with the shocks off th eside of the frame. It looks like you could save about 5-8" by not going to a cnati set up like on the 55 (although that does look bad a$$). As far as the half-shafts I also agree and I would set it up so at my ride heigh ( low ) they would be parallel and then lay down from their. I am figuring if I can get about 4" of trave each way from ride height that should put me as low as I want to go and still be very useable with out having a large notch.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Yes I agree it is alot of work but that is most of the fun! As far as a bigger notch that seams it would only be if you went with a canti set up. I am thinking of doing a duel shock wave set up with the shocks off th eside of the frame. It looks like you could save about 5-8" by not going to a cnati set up like on the 55 (although that does look bad a$$). As far as the half-shafts I also agree and I would set it up so at my ride heigh ( low ) they would be parallel and then lay down from their. I am figuring if I can get about 4" of trave each way from ride height that should put me as low as I want to go and still be very useable with out having a large notch.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Kevin-
The bigger notch I am referring to has nothing to do with the canti-lever set-up.With a 29" tall tire, the bottom of the frame rail just behind the C4 third member mounts needs to be 20" from the ground (at a 5" ride height) to give the rear tie-rods clearance at full dump. The mounts on the third member are about 38" wide and will not fit inside the frame-rails of a stock chassis. We're doing a 71 blazer with full C4 and I will be happy to post some pics as soon as we get to the suspension part of the build. Not trying to discourage, I know you're more than capable of doing this type of work, and I agree, the more work (challenge) the bigger reward!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Kevin-
The bigger notch I am referring to has nothing to do with the canti-lever set-up.With a 29" tall tire, the bottom of the frame rail just behind the C4 third member mounts needs to be 20" from the ground (at a 5" ride height) to give the rear tie-rods clearance at full dump. The mounts on the third member are about 38" wide and will not fit inside the frame-rails of a stock chassis. We're doing a 71 blazer with full C4 and I will be happy to post some pics as soon as we get to the suspension part of the build. Not trying to discourage, I know you're more than capable of doing this type of work, and I agree, the more work (challenge) the bigger reward!

Thanks for the info and I speak for alot of us that would love to see more of your work! You never need to worry about Discourging me! Heck most of the projects that I have done in some way is because someone told me it could not be done. I am one of those guys that lives life by two rules, Rule #1 is I don't use food for bait and I don't use bait for food! #2 is their is nothing I can not do just some things I have not done yet!!! So far both rules have worked out great.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

PS. My wife says to please stop showing your pic's on this site because it is going to cost a bunch to play in your ball game

[Rokcrln]

Although I would rather not have a big Notch in the blazer I guess if I do it will only be a mounting point for a rear seat to sit flat on the top of the notch. So instead of building seat rails to bring it up to a good height I will just let the floor do that. Then incorperate that into storage space for the speaker enclosure in front of the seat and air system behind the seat all while being out of site.
Sorry for jacking your thread but at the same time I guess it show everyone here that you really know your stuff (not that it was not already known) when it comes to suspention and your knoledge of slicing, dicing and retrofitting.

Have a great nite I hope it is cooler their than here(108*)

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Thanks for the info and I speak for alot of us that would love to see more of your work! You never need to worry about Discourging me! Heck most of the projects that I have done in some way is because someone told me it could not be done. I am one of those guys that lives life by two rules, Rule #1 is I don't use food for bait and I don't use bait for food! #2 is their is nothing I can not do just some things I have not done yet!!! So far both rules have worked out great.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

PS. My wife says to please stop showing your pic's on this site because it is going to cost a bunch to play in your ball game

Kevin-
Rule #2 says a lot about your attitude and who you are. It is that attitude and the attention to detail in your work that will get you where you want to be in life. It is also because of that attitude that there will be nothing you can't do in life. If only more people believed in themselves...
Anyways, tell your wife "it's just money" (I know, it won't work)

[PBFAB.COM]

Finally have some more pics of the progress. These pics show the motor mounts for the LS1, and how much clearance is left at the bottom of the Dropmember at full dump. It allows the frame to set on the ground and still has just over an inch of ground clearance at the lower control arm mount.

[PBFAB.COM]

Two more...

[72CSTC5]

Had to chime in here because I am such a big car nut and a perfectionist but DAMN, Porter, that has to be some of the nicest fab work and welds that I have ever seen. I hope you are getting paid for what you do. Good honest work not butched up is hard to come by. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming. Just bought a 72 cheyenne short wide to be a stable mate to my 72 2wd Blazer so maybe the Blazer will get your new front end and pass the Blazer to the truck for daily driving chores. How much do you think realistically money wise with steering joints and all for the kit to install, bags and all?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by 72CSTC5

Had to chime in here because I am such a big car nut and a perfectionist but DAMN, Porter, that has to be some of the nicest fab work and welds that I have ever seen. I hope you are getting paid for what you do. Good honest work not butched up is hard to come by. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming. Just bought a 72 cheyenne short wide to be a stable mate to my 72 2wd Blazer so maybe the Blazer will get your new front end and pass the Blazer to the truck for daily driving chores. How much do you think realistically money wise with steering joints and all for the kit to install, bags and all?

Dropmember $1200 (comes with everything you need minus the following)
-Rack and Pinion (it must be Mustang II all years will bolt right up to the member) $250 (this can vary depending on what brand or style of rack you buy. Power or manual rack, close ratio, bla, bla, bla.)
-Steering Shaft and Linkage $300 (you can use 3 joints or only 2 by buying the "expensive" double u-joint for the column shaft end. An idler is needed either way)
-Bags $75-$100 each, depending on where you buy them
-Shocks $50-$75

My calculations say about $2000 plus tubular arms (recommended, not necessary). I will be putting together a "package deal" and will post it up when my supercomputer spits out the calculation!
If you go power rack it'll be more for lines and pump.

[smbrouss70]

porterbuilt, I have a few questions that I don't think have been answered yet.

1) What needs to be modified on the stock lower control arms? If my wife lets me spend the money to get this, she definately won't let me spring for tubular arms at the same time.

2) Do the engine mounts come with it or are they extra?

3) What needs to be done to the tranny x-member? Just raising it and moving it forward?

Thanks

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

porterbuilt, I have a few questions that I don't think have been answered yet.

1) What needs to be modified on the stock lower control arms? If my wife lets me spend the money to get this, she definately won't let me spring for tubular arms at the same time.

2) Do the engine mounts come with it or are they extra?

3) What needs to be done to the tranny x-member? Just raising it and moving it forward?

Thanks

1) The stock lower control arms will contact the dropmember's lower control arm shaft mounting block at the edges when dumped. The stock lower control arms will need to be trimmed a little to avoid contact. Also, a mounting plate for the air spring will need to be attached (I will be able to supply this for a little extra). I will post up a pic of this the beginning of next week.

2) The engine mounts WILL be part of the kit (I don't have any made yet for a traditional small block). All the installs I have currently done are for the GenIII motors (LS1). I will be installing another dropmember in a 69 this month, and it will be running a 350/400 combo. I will use the mounts from this install as a pattern for the kit.

3) The trans crossmember moves up and forward. I am sure the original can be modified. I will also be offering a tubular one with the kit at an additional charge.

[Rokcrln]

Sounds like it will be a great kit with well thought out options to boot! I want to see it air'd up with a tape showing full lift and full drop...

On a side note that I am sure you guys will enjoy. Doday in Winters Ca. the 100 cars doing the 2006 Great Race from Philadelphia, Pa. to San Rafael, Ca. drove into town today for a few hours on their last leg of the race. Alot of great ols race cars and a few hot rods. I was lucky enough to get a few moments to talk with Jerry & Judy Kugel of Kugel Komponents as well as Frank & Evelyn Currie of Currie Enterprises. Both driving sweet 32 ford roadsters. Currie's was old school solid front axel running a 400 Rodeck all alum blown small block pushing 575Hp - 596 ft. lbs. Torque. Kugel was running his independent front and rear set up with a healthy 302. He has had this car since 1968!

Sorry I had to share this with someone and I thought you all would understand...

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jimmydean]

Hey porterbuilt, nice spread in this months Classic Trucks! That thing is so nice! I don't think the pictures they have do it justice though.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jimmydean

Hey porterbuilt, nice spread in this months Classic Trucks! That thing is so nice! I don't think the pictures they have do it justice though.

Thanks Jimmydean. I haven't stopped smiling since I opened up the mailbox yesterday! I don't know why, but for some reason the color just doesn't print well?????? It always has a flat sheen to it, or looks a wierd purple. Nevertheless, I am more than ecstatic about the deal!

[culookn]

what year control arms/spindles do you use for the dropped member? i was concerned about this when it comes to chooseing a brake package for the front end.

[PBFAB.COM]

The dropmemebr will use either 63-72 style arms/sindles or the 73-87 style (they all bolt up the same, 63-72 use a different ball joint than 73-87). It was designed to use Air Ride Tech.'s Strong Arms, but will work with stock or other aftermarket tube arms with some mods to the arms. (I was supposed to post up a pic of a stock lower arm and wher it needs to be trimmed, wasn't I... tomorrow hopefully )

Whatever brake package you go with, just make sure the arms you get/have will work with the spindles you get.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Thanks Jimmydean. I haven't stopped smiling since I opened up the mailbox yesterday! I don't know why, but for some reason the color just doesn't print well?????? It always has a flat sheen to it, or looks a wierd purple. Nevertheless, I am more than ecstatic about the deal!

I think the color looks better in your photos and I didn't think the angles they used showed enough detail.

Either way, congrats on the cover and I look forward to seeing the C10 on the cover shot in the near future.

[culookn]

can someone buy the drop member kit without the front bag mounts ? does it have the a arm mounts welded on top of it?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by culookn

can someone buy the drop member kit without the front bag mounts ? does it have the a arm mounts welded on top of it?

Why would you not want the bag mounts on it?... Coil-over?.. Shockwave? I can definitely sell it without the bag mount on it if that is requested. Here is a pic of what they would look like without the bag mount... and one with the bag mount.

[bgeraurd]

Hey will those fit in duallys? I want to make a one ton tow rig that lays frame but I dont want to z the frame. Could I modify the contral arms to fit?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by bgeraurd

Hey will those fit in duallys? I want to make a one ton tow rig that lays frame but I dont want to z the frame. Could I modify the contral arms to fit?

I am pretty confident that the crossmember on the 1-ton is the same, just the spindles and brakes are heavier duty. I do not see it being a problem. What year is it? I will do a little bit of research to find out. If it is pre-73 the lower control arm will need to be slightly clearanced... I was supposed to post up a pic of this, hopefully Monday I can find a little time!

[Rydn2L0w]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

This is a "Dropmember". It is made to bolt into 63-87 Chevrolet Trucks, 2wd and those who are tired of their 4wd sitting too high. It uses a rack and pinion, designed to be used with tubular arms (Air Ride Tech.) but can be used with stock arms (slight modification to lower arm is needed), it allows the frame to set on the ground with a drop spindle and a 29 inch tall tire. Porterbuilt Street Rods is the manufacturer and they sell for a whopping $1200.

Sectioning the original crossmember definitely seems like the cheaper route as long as you have the capability of doing so. Thats a lot of dough! yikes! Do you have to cut a hole in your frame for the rack and pininion??

[PBFAB.COM]

You do have to notch the framerails for the tie-rod clearance. The kit comes with a plate that bolts in.

Sectioning the crossmember may be a "less expensive" route for those with the capability.

For what it cost me to design, proto-type, build, plus the equipment to produce it, and cost of machined pieces... $1200 is a pretty good deal. It's a bargain to some and a lot to others!