66 frame off resto-mod

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by rcrahn

Need to ask what in tank fuel pump this is? I am looking at installing a walbro in the aluminum tank I have.....

This is the stock 2008 Silverado fuel pump and tank locking ring. My old tank was already a big steel can that mounted behind the rear end between the frame rails so they just cut it open and use the stock Silverado pump and sender assembly we got with our "dead" engine.

[tomlamb]

We decided to have the motor looked at (with the yard's verbal permission) so it is at the motor shop now. I hope to have an answer on this motor as soon as tonight. At least Santa in the big brown truck came!

[1964C10]

I agree with you that if it does it on every rotation that it is in the lower end. Sound like the crank could be bent, either way I would guess that if the starter can't move it from that spot there is definitely something expensive wrong with the motor and unless the yard is going to pay to fix it I would get your money back. That's my MHO anyways. Best of luck and let us know how it turns out.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

I agree with you that if it does it on every rotation that it is in the lower end. Sound like the crank could be bent, either way I would guess that if the starter can't move it from that spot there is definitely something expensive wrong with the motor and unless the yard is going to pay to fix it I would get your money back. That's my MHO anyways. Best of luck and let us know how it turns out.

That is the strange part, I would think if the crank is bent, it wouldn't glide past the hard spot with a little momentum. With the way this junk yard has been, it is going to be a task to get the money back, they haven't lived up to a single promise thus far...

More info, we checked with a bore scope in the plug hole didn't see anything abnormal, any other ideas on what could be the issue with the 5.3?

[1964C10]

I am by no means very knowledgeable on engines, but if I remember correct, they have mechanical oil pumps, could there possibly be something binding in the pump? Have you pulled the oil pan? I think the pump can be removed from the bottom.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

I am by no means very knowledgeable on engines, but if I remember correct, they have mechanical oil pumps, could there possibly be something binding in the pump? Have you pulled the oil pan? I think the pump can be removed from the bottom.

I hadn't thought about the oil pump, we are waiting for engine stand to be available to pull the pan. Thanks!

[1964C10]

Sorry to hear about the junk yard, that sucks good lesson for the rest of us.....get it in writing.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

Sorry to hear about the junk yard, that sucks good lesson for the rest of us.....get it in writing.

Very True! Also, next time I will ask for references before buying. American Truck in Fontana, CA will not be getting any references from me or RRC!

[1964C10]

Of course the same can be said for the water pump. Is it driven by the camshaft like the LT1?

[padresag]

if you drop the pan without their permission then they can say that you tampered with it, then they will explain to you that you are "SOL". if you are doubtful about any of just try and return it. don't give them any opportunities by being a good guy to stiff you
ron

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by padresag

if you drop the pan without their permission then they can say that you tampered with it, then they will explain to you that you are "SOL". if you are doubtful about any of just try and return it. don't give them any opportunities by being a good guy to stiff you
ron

Very good point! I think I would spend my time just trying to get my money back and find something else.

[padresag]

or you can let them have the opportunity to chk it out themselves and if they say that it is fine, then that puts the onus on them. the greatest problems with these things is the time that these motors sit around before they actually get on the road. sorry i don't recall on how long that you have had it it. if not that long then I would say flash it up and see if it runs. just make up a simple engine stand and do it. or find and eng shop that has an eng dyno and get them to do it. if it goes for a dump then they sold you a motor that doesn't work and you haven't opened it up.
everyone tries to weasel out of everything , just get tough or smarter than them. I can remember back in the mid 60's when a friend had bought a falcon I think with a nice little v8 in it(he had previously worked for Ford) and had some concerns about the eng and he only had about 350-400 mi on it.
he took it in and the service manager told to go put some more mi on it and to see what happens. ford had a policy then if there was a problem under 500 mi they replace the eng and if it was over repair. he went home with it and dumped the oil and took it for a drive and it didn't make it to 500 mi. new eng. That is hardball, but sometimes it has to be done
ron

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by padresag

or you can let them have the opportunity to chk it out themselves and if they say that it is fine, then that puts the onus on them. the greatest problems with these things is the time that these motors sit around before they actually get on the road. sorry i don't recall on how long that you have had it it. if not that long then I would say flash it up and see if it runs. just make up a simple engine stand and do it. or find and eng shop that has an eng dyno and get them to do it. if it goes for a dump then they sold you a motor that doesn't work and you haven't opened it up.
everyone tries to weasel out of everything , just get tough or smarter than them.

Tough to say how long it sat, we have had it for almost 2 months. The yard did say we could open to pan up and see if we can tell anything, I am just trying to figure out some ballpark ideas of what it could be before we open up the engine and roll the dice. I wouldn't want to spend the $$ getting the harness and computer done just in case I cannot find another Gen 4 in budget.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by padresag

if you drop the pan without their permission then they can say that you tampered with it, then they will explain to you that you are "SOL". if you are doubtful about any of just try and return it. don't give them any opportunities by being a good guy to stiff you
ron

You may be correct. This was at a good price to start for an 08 motor and trans so that is why if I could find out what could be wrong and how much it would cost to fix I would end up with an almost new motor and trans. I have called a bunch of the yards in the area and nobody has a Gen4 setup except the local LKQ yard at $5K.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

Of course the same can be said for the water pump. Is it driven by the camshaft like the LT1?

the water pump looks to be belt driven and the tight spot is there with the belt off...

Thinking about it, the cam should rotate once for every 2 crankshaft rotations? The oil pump looks like it is located behind the front cover on the cam so if it was the oil pump I would think it would have a tight spot every other full rotation.

Any other ideas?

[rayce08]

sounds like it spun a bearing , if the motor ran while it was upside down then there was no oil going to the bearings , if your lucky it was on the rod or crank , it could have messed up the blockside bearing and messed up the block and thats not good , but most of the time its a rod or crank cap bearing .

[1964C10]

I'll keep my fingers crossed, hope it's something simple

Nice parts, lots of work

[1964C10]

Any news on the engine?

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

Any news on the engine?

Funny you should ask... Just got off the phone with RRC and we may have the damage total. Looks like to may just be one rod bent and piston that was hitting the crank counterweight. I should know more by tonight, but that's the latest! If that is the extent of it, I may soon have a usable motor!

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by tomlamb

If that is the extent of it, I may soon have a usable motor!

[rayce08]

tom , it must have hydrolocked when upside down , im gonna guess the bearing on that rod is damaged too , make sure they check the crank good !

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by rayce08

tom , it must have hydrolocked when upside down , im gonna guess the bearing on that rod is damaged too , make sure they check the crank good !

That is the guess, so far the piston, rod, bearing, and rings are something like $240 from the local GM dealer. Nothing was mentioned about the crank so I hope the shop that is doing the motor work did check it. What would you suggest as the method of checking?

[tomlamb]

Well, it looks like that is it for the motor, just a piston and rod so I may be back on track.
Here are some pics of the cab repair.

[ruffrida2005]

Man they are knocking that thing out, glad you can use your motor I need to find a 5.3

[tiggamonsta]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

Man they are knocking that thing out, glad you can use your motor I need to find a 5.3

There was a finale article in the september 09 issue of Classic Trucks about the install of a 5.3 in a 72 C10. He states in the article that Dave of Goldenwest Truck is selling the 5.3 for $500.

Here is the contact info from the article.

Dave's Goldenwest Truck
714-898-4343
6872 Garden Grove blvd.
Westminster, CA 92863