1971 K20- project just get driveable!!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Swapping the brake components is easy enough to do and the cost isn't that bad. Rather than have a caliper lock up on you or a leaking wheel cylinder a month from now, might as well swap them. It should only take a couple hours to finish up your brakes. You're very close now.

Yep, I think its best to be proactive, just need to pull the rear hubs off since this is the eaton rear. I've got the 6 tab big socket and rear seals coming in at NAPA tomorrow. I hope the shoes and drums are ok. Don't want to invest a whole lot since I may make some rear end upgrades at some point, either discs or possibly a D60 with powerlok.

[JimmyBonz]

Could You keep me in Mind if Ya come across an EATON "Pumpkin" with the 4.10 or 3.73 Gear Set??? I KNOW Your lookin for a "Locking Set" but I could just use the "Open End" Set. Don't need a 'Posi Unit" or Locking set.I figure Somebody might offer one up to Ya. Let me know if Ya hear,I'm TRYING to get my 50 Chevy Truck ON the Highway,not just Lookin at the Highway.THANKS for ANY Help at all.
Jimmy.
p.s. I KNOW the 3.73 set was an option on the 'Camper Special' 68-72.I'm Dreamin......

[Vintage Windmills]

Jimmy, assume you got my PM.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Swapping the brake components is easy enough to do and the cost isn't that bad. Rather than have a caliper lock up on you or a leaking wheel cylinder a month from now, might as well swap them. It should only take a couple hours to finish up your brakes. You're very close now.

Mike, I wish it would have been easy The drum is behind the hub on these. If that wasn't enough, the shoes were stuck to the rotors since they were grooved in, I had to pull them off. And of course, I had to grind on my puller to accept the 1/2" bolts.




Then the fun continued after I got them off, I found the shoes had delaminated and the drums are too worn to use as is or turn. I spent some time looking today and didn't find drums, since this is that one year only 2" wide shoe setup. If it were a 72, would have had some options. The pic below shows the wider 72 drums in the foreground.


I then thought about just going the 14 bolt route, but just decided I'd rather have discs on the eaton, especially after I found some deals on the components. I found a set of adapter plates for $50, Eldorado calipers with park brake for $85 each, and rotors for 35 each, pads 35. So my piece together rear disk setup is less than $300 It is all being shipped now, so hopefully the info I read is accurate and it will all fit. I also ordered new parking brake cables and hub bearings.

On a positive note, I got the wiring all done, engine finished connected, and she runs pretty good! Pulled out some of the massive dents in the box and I drove around the yard awhile in 1st (again, no brakes at all!) The power steering pump is really whining, I see the return line is pretty weathered, the air may be coming in there.


Oh, I also got a set of 2.5 skyjacker front leafs, and 4 matching shocks. Its sitting low in the front right now on the stock springs, about 2 under the rear height, so can't wait to get the new springs on and balance it out.

[Vintage Windmills]

Wondering what I should do about the master cylinder given the change to discs in the rear?

[Vintage Windmills]

So today I learned the brake adapter plates are shipping from Canada and won't be here for a week. I'm tempted to throw the rusty 72 eaton under it for now, then I could rebuild the original and install the discs at my leisure, and hopefully a no spin by then. Thinking maybe do the same thing with the front axle.

Searching for info on the master cyl and prop valve for the 4 wheel discs, there is no consensus. Some guys say both need to be changed, others say just the prop valve, others say no changes..........

[swamp rat]

Man i have been missing all the fun because this build isn't in the 4X4 section, consider me subscribed! BTW: I'm also doing an Eaton conversion along with other stuff except i have to work outside. :p

Come on over and take a gander at my truck when you have time, any tips and advice welcome.

[DeadheadNM]

Jud - my HO52 had no adjust hole for the brakes on the backing plate - if you are in there now consider adding a hole to access the star adjuster down the road. We plugged my holes with rubber stoppers.....looking good. Pete

[ryanroo]

im not sure how it will fly on the 3/4 master, but on my jeep i have a 1 ton m/c and nothing was needed for the rear disk. i used the normal 3/4 ton front rotors and calipers. i plumbed an adjustable wilwood prop in the rear line, but later removed it because it was adjusted full open. the brakes work very well on that thing.

been driving my thrash fest truck for a week! you better get er done Jud!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Jud - my HO52 had no adjust hole for the brakes on the backing plate - if you are in there now consider adding a hole to access the star adjuster down the road. We plugged my holes with rubber stoppers.....looking good. Pete

Pete, good idea that would have made life easier to get the shoes to release. I will be taking the plates off altogether though with the rear disc kit.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

im not sure how it will fly on the 3/4 master, but on my jeep i have a 1 ton m/c and nothing was needed for the rear disk. i used the normal 3/4 ton front rotors and calipers. i plumbed an adjustable wilwood prop in the rear line, but later removed it because it was adjusted full open. the brakes work very well on that thing.

been driving my thrash fest truck for a week! you better get er done Jud!

Ryan, good info. I think I will just try it with stock booster and everything and see how it does. Theres a blacktop culdesac down the road here that nobody lives on that I can use as a little test track.

So my goal was to have driveable in 60 days and I drove around the yard on Saturday, but no brakes, no hood, and no seat. Does that count as meeting my goal? I am getting a ton done on the truck, its just that everything needs work. Really underestimated how much it needed! It will be nice when done though!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Ryan, good info. I think I will just try it with stock booster and everything and see how it does. Theres a blacktop culdesac down the road here that nobody lives on that I can use as a little test track.

So my goal was to have driveable in 60 days and I drove around the yard on Saturday, but no brakes, no hood, and no seat. Does that count as meeting my goal? I am getting a ton done on the truck, its just that everything needs work. Really underestimated how much it needed! It will be nice when done though!

For what its worth, Randy at Blackbird customs says he installs the his conversion kits and retains the stock proportioning valve and says he's not had any complaints. I decided to get mine from inline tube anyway but it cost about $80..

I know the feeling on how slow things move, i'm trying to detail everything as i go plus fighting the weather too.. Did ya put a milk crate in there for a seat?

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

For what its worth, Randy at Blackbird customs says he installs the his conversion kits and retains the stock proportioning valve and says he's not had any complaints. I decided to get mine from inline tube anyway but it cost about $80..

I know the feeling on how slow things move, i'm trying to detail everything as i go plus fighting the weather too.. Did ya put a milk crate in there for a seat?

I was reading that on his site. I got the caliper brackets from NW fabworks sitting here. A 5 gallon bucket was the seat

Engine starts really well now, can't wait to get the brakes on and hit the road. Here are some updated pics.


Pulled the massive dents out of box. Still thinking I'll swap a better box on I have here but this can then be used on a trailer.


Got the inspection cover cleaned and painted:


Got the other axle spray bombed and springs ready to install. The rotors aren't too nice but I will replace them in the future. At least this axle has non frozen calipers, intact axle shafts, and lockouts.


Fender nut welded in and hood hinges and hood mounted. Notice how low the truck is sitting on the front stock non heavy springs. Tires are 265/75/16 (31 inch).

[Dieselwrencher]

Jud, great progress on this truck! You've saved one from the junk yards and crusher!!!

[DeadheadNM]

Nice Jud and you added bucket (5 gallon) seats. Sweet!

[Ol Blue K20]

It loooks like different truck, Congrats on saving it. Engine running good?

[Vintage Windmills]

Engine is running good but won't know just how strong it is until I get the brakes done. I ditched the box, so I could fix the shock mount on the eaton and paint the rear of the frame/chassis. this truck chassis is really clean like a southwest frame, no rust pitting and still has some of the original undercoating on it. I think it was on the farm so long it really never saw salt.
Original undercoating:




Only issue is the eaton shock mount hole is way too large! Even the hole close in the picture here is about 3/4"!


So I fired up my new miller 252


Far one was so bad I cut it out and made a replacement triangle piece and welded in. All done:

[Vintage Windmills]

Found a crack in front frame horn:


So I fixed it:


Some minor bending at rear of frame: look to bottom of red block


So I fixed it:


Then used my HVLP paint sprayer, while dodging the rain showers and painted the areas of the frame I could get to. Took the front wheels off and did front of frame and outsides underneath cab as well.


Front of frame fixed and painted. Core support will be replaced later.


Big day, can you put some food in my dish now?!

[swamp rat]

Did you wire brush the frame? what product did you use to paint it with ?

[y5mgisi]

Subscribed! Cool looking truck!

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Did you wire brush the frame? what product did you use to paint it with ?

The rust was so minimal and hard, I just painted over it after a thorough 3000psi pressure washer blasting. Cleaning rust off with a wire brush is a waste of time in my opinion unless you have loose or flakey rust. We used to wire brush but saw no improvement in how long the paint lasted. I used Valspar oil based low glosss enamel. Nothing too fancy, I debated about even painting it since this is going to be a work truck/driver. After looking at in now, I am sure glad I did, looks way better and will be easier to clean off the chassis when it gets muddy.

[DeadheadNM]

Lookin' good Jud - hope you beat the snow. Pete

[Dieselwrencher]

Jud, it's looking real nice. Nice work on the frame repairs! Every 4x4 frame I've had has had similar problems as that one. Must be from common abuse.

[Ol Blue K20]

Looking good, it has come a long way.

[Vintage Windmills]

THanks Gentelmen!

On a side note, picked these up for $160 or so off ebay, seems like a pretty decent price? Some defects in chrome but you don't see these too often and the dials are like new! I will put them on the shelf and hopefully can find a decent Dana 60 front at some point. I keep thinking about that and a cummins in this truck- thanks to the Ryans here!! Hard to stay focused on the goal of just getting this truck driveable.....