gear vendors install.....a real life one.

[pmpski_1]

I appreciate the post. Please update it when you get more MPG numbers. It would be nice to have an average after a couple tanks.

[mtdave2]

well i wish we were done.. i still have a driveline issue that ill post in a while.. also i will post more mpg readings.

just ame back from the drive line shope and now i have to do some mods..photos too follow soon

[mtdave2]

Lets see if I can explain this. I have a vibration from take off. And I get one about 65. so I took it to my fav drive line shop, he put it up in the air, and the problem was quickly obvious.

It seems that our (or at least my) trucks, the engines set and an angle sloping to the rear. So the drive line used to raise a little to get to the carrier bearing. Then it would slope downward toward the rear axle. The angle was not that large, so there was no problem. Though this may be the reason some carrier bearing are in the middle of the cross member or under it!

When I added the gear vendor, it extended the length of the downward angle from the motor. The longer you go, the steeper the angle to meet the carrier bearing. This created two sharp angles on the first ujont, and at the carrier bearing…causing my vibrations.



Fix? Lift trany up ½ or so (mine will clear everything on top of the trany at ½. And put in a shim. Then remove the carrier bearing, and its mounting spacer. Put at 10 in long plate where the old mount was, moving the carrier bearing back 10 inches. This should get my drive line to be very straight. Using shims if necessary under the carrier bearing to level things out…the reason, for moving the carrier back is the short shaft is the reason for the vibration from take off.

Clear as mud? Ugh its always something.

[Sinister]

That's a drag, sounds like a PITA.

[69GMCLonghorn]

I know this might be expensive, but it seems the better solution would have just been to ace the carrier bearing and go with a one piece driveshaft... I'm still jealous that you have a working GV and I don't. Maybe someday...

[mtdave2]

Originally Posted by Sinister

That's a drag, sounds like a PITA.

EVERYTHING i do is like this, so im used to it..lol

reall everything will be easy to do, i do this kind of stuff at work alot, so ill just make the spacer and plate at work tonite. the only hard part will be drilling out the rivits....

[mtdave2]

Originally Posted by 69GMCLonghorn

I know this might be expensive, but it seems the better solution would have just been to ace the carrier bearing and go with a one piece driveshaft... I'm still jealous that you have a working GV and I don't. Maybe someday...

i asked about that. the problem is the cross member, the drive line would hit. he did say if i wanted to flip the cross member or get a differant type, he could build one. though i would be better off with the 2 drive lines, better set up for hauling and towing

[Lemield]

Looking good Dave. That is a sweet truck you have there.
Regarding the GV unit shifting early....I noticed this too....when I use it in auto mode...called GV and they told me that the electronics in the unit will not reset until it the unit comes to a complete stop...I usually drive mine in manual mode anyway since it's fun...

[mtdave2]

larry i asked the gv prez about that. he told me it should be set to shift at 47 mph. if i decide i dont like it, give them a call and they can set the shift to what mph you want! so i will be doing this i think. mine shifts at 42.

[Otsa580]

Very good write up. I would like one..........someday.

[Custom 68]

great write up Dave thanks. But it sounds like you ar enot completly happy with the function of it? I currently am running a 4l60 but thought if our rather when mine goes out I would explore this option. Does the auto mode shift into overdrive in each gear? or do you do this manually if you want a split?
Thanks
dave

[BLACK AND BLUE 67-72]

Awesome write up!!!!! Hopefully one of these days I can finally afford one!!!

[airdale94]

Hey Dave, I got me one of those chrome bezel SunPros also. What you do is get a Koozie and cut the bottom out. Then cut it down the side and zip tie it around the tach. Leave a little hanging over the front, like a bill on a baseball cap. A black label Jack Daniels or Coca-Cola would be cool. Nice looking truck by the way!

[C20-67_N_MO]

Originally Posted by mtdave2

for you guys who thanked me for posting, i appreciate it. i have made a few posts like this, with seemingly little interest, so i never know if i am just wasting my time or if someone finds it helpful. any time you do a post like this you open yourself up to lots of critics and snide comments, but I know I would have LOVED a post like this last week!

Dave I would just think it just depends on the subject matter and whatnots. But in this post you can tell you have a passion for documenting your steps and are quite exciting to share your experience!

Originally Posted by mtdave2

Lets see if I can explain this. I have a vibration from take off. And I get one about 65. so I took it to my fav drive line shop, he put it up in the air, and the problem was quickly obvious.

It seems that our (or at least my) trucks, the engines set and an angle sloping to the rear. So the drive line used to raise a little to get to the carrier bearing. Then it would slope downward toward the rear axle. The angle was not that large, so there was no problem. Though this may be the reason some carrier bearing are in the middle of the cross member or under it!

When I added the gear vendor, it extended the length of the downward angle from the motor. The longer you go, the steeper the angle to meet the carrier bearing. This created two sharp angles on the first ujont, and at the carrier bearing…causing my vibrations.



Fix? Lift trany up ½ or so (mine will clear everything on top of the trany at ½. And put in a shim. Then remove the carrier bearing, and its mounting spacer. Put at 10 in long plate where the old mount was, moving the carrier bearing back 10 inches. This should get my drive line to be very straight. Using shims if necessary under the carrier bearing to level things out…the reason, for moving the carrier back is the short shaft is the reason for the vibration from take off.

Clear as mud? Ugh its always something.

Seems Crystal clear to me the way you described it.

Originally Posted by mtdave2

larry i asked the gv prez about that. he told me it should be set to shift at 47 mph. if i decide i dont like it, give them a call and they can set the shift to what mph you want! so i will be doing this i think. mine shifts at 42.

Now that sounds like some very good Customer Service.

So what would you have to do? Send back the computer to have it reprogramed? Too bad they do not off something that could be downloaded and plugged into your computer for a quick update.

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by mtdave2

Lets see if I can explain this. I have a vibration from take off. And I get one about 65. so I took it to my fav drive line shop, he put it up in the air, and the problem was quickly obvious.

It seems that our (or at least my) trucks, the engines set and an angle sloping to the rear. So the drive line used to raise a little to get to the carrier bearing. Then it would slope downward toward the rear axle. The angle was not that large, so there was no problem. Though this may be the reason some carrier bearing are in the middle of the cross member or under it!

When I added the gear vendor, it extended the length of the downward angle from the motor. The longer you go, the steeper the angle to meet the carrier bearing. This created two sharp angles on the first ujont, and at the carrier bearing…causing my vibrations.



Fix? Lift trany up ½ or so (mine will clear everything on top of the trany at ½. And put in a shim. Then remove the carrier bearing, and its mounting spacer. Put at 10 in long plate where the old mount was, moving the carrier bearing back 10 inches. This should get my drive line to be very straight. Using shims if necessary under the carrier bearing to level things out…the reason, for moving the carrier back is the short shaft is the reason for the vibration from take off.

Clear as mud? Ugh its always something.

Probably to late now but there is a company in California called High Angle Driveline that makes shafts for rock crawlers. He has a patent on a cv joint that will go to like 36 degrees. I put one in mine as I have a lifted swb t400 4x4 with GV and my shaft is like 2 ft long. I have had the truck as high as 80 with no vibration at all. Cost about $400 for the drive shaft.

[mtdave2]

Originally Posted by airdale94

Hey Dave, I got me one of those chrome bezel SunPros also. What you do is get a Koozie and cut the bottom out. Then cut it down the side and zip tie it around the tach. Leave a little hanging over the front, like a bill on a baseball cap. A black label Jack Daniels or Coca-Cola would be cool. Nice looking truck by the way!

freakin great idea! i hate that tape.

[mtdave2]

im not sure how they change it. perhaps a new speed sensor? once im up and running again, ill give them a call.

[mtdave2]

custom 68...i am just having some install issues is all. i can tell that once i figure out everything and get it running smooth, im gona love it,

i still think i made the right move. i just wish thing would go easy. keep in mind this happens with everything i do, so your install may be a breeze.

[69GMCLonghorn]

I have found one tool that is essential to any project, and always makes the installs go better. It's called "MONEY"!!! It seams the more I use this tool, the better the project goes. The more I try to avoid it, the more I end up cursing, swearing, drinking beer, kicking the dog, etc...

[mtdave2]

Originally Posted by 69GMCLonghorn

I have found one tool that is essential to any project, and always makes the installs go better. It's called "MONEY"!!! It seams the more I use this tool, the better the project goes. The more I try to avoid it, the more I end up cursing, swearing, drinking beer, kicking the dog, etc...

lol ya that is generaly true.

[mtdave2]

well, my drive line mod worked great. i was able to move my trany up I was able to raise the trany up about ¾ inch, and put in a shim.



That raised the tail a lot! Then I built a flat plate that would extend out 11 inches back from where to old location of the carrier bearing. Its hard to get a shot of it!



The drive line looks much better, its almost a flat shot. Very little angle anyplace.
Road tested up to 85 mph, smooth as silk. =) finaly

[Sinister]

Congrats. Did you have to mod the driveshaft when you moved the carrier bearing?

[mtdave2]

now i am set for my drive to austin and back at 65, and see how much mpg i gained.

[mtdave2]

Originally Posted by Sinister

Congrats. Did you have to mod the driveshaft when you moved the carrier bearing?

ya, i had to have the front one lengthening, and the rear shortened.

[mtdave2]

first drive looks like im about 14-15 mpg. will see how a mixed around town/highway tank goes.