2 for 1 Part II...

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by aggie91

If you can't tell from the pictures, my work shop is the great outdoors next to the house. I am doing this build the old school way, in the grass/leaves/dirt, no lights other then the sun, and no power tools. So far so good. It does suck that it gets dark at 5:30 or so...

I build all my stuff in the same shop as you do. The big shop with the green floors and blue roof. My building is so full of powdercoating stuff that I can't even get a truck in there to work on and walk around it. So it all takes place outside in front of the shop door where I can get in synch with Mother Nature.

We should start a club....Brotherhood of the green floor and blue roof.

There'd be no club dues since we are all broke dicks who can't even afford a roof over our heads. Our club symbol could be a blue plastic tarp.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I build all my stuff in the same shop as you do. The big shop with the green floors and blue roof. My building is so full of powdercoating stuff that I can't even get a truck in there to work on and walk around it. So it all takes place outside in front of the shop door where I can get in synch with Mother Nature.

We should start a club....Brotherhood of the green floor and blue roof.

There'd be no club dues since we are all broke dicks who can't even afford a roof over our heads. Our club symbol could be a blue plastic tarp.

LOL...you are so right. This is the only way I can afford a blue tarp at the moment:


To bad this time of the year the floor is not green...mine is covered in leaves and since it rained last week, its kind of muddy too.

Got home last night and it was already dark, so all I did was put the pump/sender assembly into the tank. I am going to try to actually put the springs and spindles on tonight after work even if I have to use a flashlight...

[aggie91]

Had a small problem with one of the spindles, the lower ball joint hole had a bur at the top that was not letting the BJ stud go all the way thru. I checked the other one and it was ok, so a 5/8" drill bit was run thru and just took off enough.

So, last night I put in the springs and spindles and new brake hoses:



I masked off the rotors and got them painted:


This morning before leaving for work, I pulled off the masking:


Plan is to have the front suspension wrapped up by the end of the weekend. Then I will move onto the engine/trans and get that completed.

After that I will tackle the rear suspension. I need to decide on which rear end I am going to use, I know that the 10 bolt that is there now is going away, it only have 2.73 gears. I have another 10 bolt with 3.73 gear and an open carrier. I am looking at a 12 bolt a friend has in a parts truck. I might try to get that one...

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Oh, we also named this project...my wife even thinks its fitting given the "conditions" I am working in...



"White Trash"

Love it! Looking good and appreciate the details you give. Question sir, what are you using to compress the springs in the driveway? Do you own or rent a compressor that pinches the side of the coil, or? I've chained them together once for removal but felt like I was about to lose half my teeth at any second.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

Love it! Looking good and appreciate the details you give. Question sir, what are you using to compress the springs in the driveway? Do you own or rent a compressor that pinches the side of the coil, or? I've chained them together once for removal but felt like I was about to lose half my teeth at any second.

Glad you like the name...

As for the spring, No, I don't have a spring compressor. The method I used was one that I have used on every truck I have done...

I put a floor jack under the lower a-arm and put pressure on the spring. I then brake loose the ball joint nuts and run them up the stud to where I can take the nut off by hand. I leave the nuts on the stud while I break the stud loose from the spindle using a bit of the spring pressure to help. Once the ball joints are loose from the spindle, I remove the nuts and the spindle.

Then I stand to the side and VERY slowly let the jack down. Usually the spring just easily falls out of the spring pocket and lower a-arm. If the lower arm does not rotate down enough to get the spring out, I just get a long pry bar and pop the spring up out of the arm.

I have not had a spring come flying out on any truck I have done to date. Once you cut off a coil, the spring goes back in a lot easier...

Hope that all makes sense without any pictures...

[aggie91]

Well I had a surprise when I got home yesterday. Korbin and his buddy Drew where putting on the rotors and brakes. Ran into a small issue with the calipers I was going to use, but I could not get a solution is place last night. I help them put it together the rest of the way to get tires on and set on the ground. Korbin also convinced Mom to let us put the truck in the driveway to finish the work on it. She agreed as long as we (ME...) keep the driveway clean and don't spill anything on it.

Well that made my day since I have cought a sinus cold... I will use one of those HF Free tarp coupons to get a tarp to lay on the concrete under the truck while I work on it. At 7:30 last night, the truck was sitting in the driveway ready to put on jack stands to work on the rear flip kit.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Glad you like the name...

As for the spring, No, I don't have a spring compressor. The method I used was one that I have used on every truck I have done...

I put a floor jack under the lower a-arm and put pressure on the spring. I then brake loose the ball joint nuts and run them up the stud to where I can take the nut off by hand. I leave the nuts on the stud while I break the stud loose from the spindle using a bit of the spring pressure to help. Once the ball joints are loose from the spindle, I remove the nuts and the spindle.

Then I stand to the side and VERY slowly let the jack down. Usually the spring just easily falls out of the spring pocket and lower a-arm. If the lower arm does not rotate down enough to get the spring out, I just get a long pry bar and pop the spring up out of the arm.

I have not had a spring come flying out on any truck I have done to date. Once you cut off a coil, the spring goes back in a lot easier...

Hope that all makes sense without any pictures...

It does, and thanks for the explanation. I've read here before someone doing it like that. One last question and I think the answer is obvious but want to be sure - the engine must be in the truck to take them out this way, correct?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

It does, and thanks for the explanation. I've read here before someone doing it like that. One last question and I think the answer is obvious but want to be sure - the engine must be in the truck to take them out this way, correct?

Correct, or at least something that weighs that much sitting on the frame...

[aggie91]

Well I forgot to take pictures of a few things we have done.

Owen helped out last night and got the old tank out by the time I got home. Now just need to clean up the brackets and shoot some paint on the frame rail to mount up the new tank. I worked on getting the rear end out after dinner, but did not get to far.

Hopefully I can make some progress this weekend.

[aggie91]

Well, I finally got the correct Calipers for the front and completed the front brakes on the truck. I have all the parts for the steering, I just need to paint them and get them install and the front will be complete, minus adding a sway bar.



Owen helped me out over the weekend. Got the old rear end out and pulled the springs so that we can get the springs cleaned and painted prior to doing the flip kit. I also torched off the rivits for the bump stops. I am not sure if I will be doing a small c-notch at this time. Now I just need to prep the rails and shoot on some satin black paint to pretty them up a bit...



We also got the old tank pulled and started cleaning up the brackets and mounting straps. I have new rubber to put between the straps and the new tank. My goal it to get those parts painted this week and the new tank ready to install. Owen and I also went and pull my other 10-bolt rear from storage and I got it cleaned up and ready for a quick paint job. It is only a 3:73 gear open carrier, but that sure is better then the 2:73 gears in the one that was in the truck. I will save up some cash and get a Spartan Locker ($292.79 at RockAuto.com) for it some day. While it is out on the stands, I will replace the axle bearings and seals. I will get those ordered today.

Hope everyone had a great weekend! I only have to work till the 19th, then I am off till Jan. 5th!

[aggie91]

Got the rear end all cleaned up and painted semi-gloss black last night. I still need to clean the brake lines and detail them before installing them on the rear with the new brakes. I will see what I can get done this week.

Our family has been celebrating St. Nicholas Day as far back as I can remember. One of my stocking gifts was a $50 gift certificate to Rock Auto. SO, I got online and placed an order for new axle bearings (National #6408) and seals (SKF #16044) today along with new headlight bulbs (Wagner #H6054BL) and a different power steering pressure hose (GATES #354860). The lights, one bearing, and the seals where on Wholesaler Closeout so I got good pricing on them. Total shipped to my house for 7 items totaled $52.08, of which only $2.08 came out of my pocket.

I will finish up the brakes on the rear end while waiting on the bearings and seals. I will get the springs cleaned up and the flip kit finished up and all attached to the rearend before sliding the whole assembly under the truck.

[68Timber]

Looking good. Are you using Rustoleum satin, or one of the Eastwood chassis paints, or?

[aggie91]

I'm using Rustoleum Satin that I get from the local Home Depot.

[aggie91]

I just totaled up my expenses so far to date. Out of my project money pocket, I have spent $943.21. Not included in that is $90 in gift cards that I was given as gifts.

So, if my total outlay in cash has been $1033.21.

My last workday is tomorrow, so I plan to get this thing put together and bleed the brakes before Christmas. The week after if the weather cooperates, I hope to have it running. The last major expense I have to get it driving is a drive shaft. I have one that is 3" short, so I will just have it retubed once I get a good measurement.

[Claytona08]

Looks good up to this point. Subscribed

[Low Elco]

Be good to see it back on wheels!

[aggie91]

Got the Tank mounting brackets cleaned and painted. I got some rubber strips cut to go between the tank and the straps. Got that all put back together and ready to go back on the truck..



also got all the rear suspension parts cleaned and painted, had to make a paint tree out of my ladder...



Once all the paint had dried, Owen and I ran a threading die over the u-bolts to clean them up. Once that was done, we go the rear end put back together and ready to go back under the truck...



Merry Christmas!

[aggie91]

Feels like I am the only one interested in this thread. Oh Well...its good for me to document what I am trying to accomplish here...

Owen and I got the rear end back under the truck before the rain started the other day. Got the bearings and seals replaced in the axle tubes and got the cover back on with fresh silicone to seal it up. Need to find my gear oil and get it filled. Since I did not replace the pinion bearings or the carrier bearings, I am going to put in 1 qt. of Lucas Oil Treatment when I fill it up.



Thanks to Keith Bennett (Bennett68C10) for the brakes, he rebuilt them and I bought them off of him when he switched to discs. That made my job REALLY easy. I just had to hook up the fluid lines and the e-brake cables.

In that first pic you can see the fuel lines haning down. We also got the fuel tank installed and ran the lines upto the engine. I attached them to the frame and just need to attach them in one more place to be done.

[aggie91]

Well its been raining for most of the day yesterday and today, but I did get one item accomplished on my list of things to do.

I drilled and tapped the passenger side head for a 3/8" pipe thread temperture switch. I followed a method I read about from member ls1nova71.

Here is a pic of the drill and tap after drilling the hole to the correct size, the heavy grease traps the chips from the drilling and the tapping operations.


Here is the hole after drilling and tapping for the new sender. Sorry for the blury pic..


Now with the new sender installed. It is a Duralast #TU66 with 3/8" pipe threads. I works with the 1990 Suburban Instrument cluster I am going to use.


That's all for today. I hope to get underneath and check the pinion angle and measure for the driveshaft mods. If I can get that done in the morning, I can take the shaft to the shop to get modified and have it back later in the day I hope. Korbin is going to weld up a small pin hole in one of the header tubes for me at his friends shop since that is where my welder is while we are saving to get my shop built. If it goes well tomorrow, my plan is to get the wiring done to fire up the engine this week. Once it runs, I have to bleed the brakes and swap out the instrument cluster so I can drive it.

[natedogg]

I'm interested in your thread and have been following close. I'm plan on doing the same swap to my 85 asap. Thanks for sharing and keep the pics coming.

[SCOTI]

Some of us watch closely brother! I just try not to 'clog' up threads w/the repeat praises all the time. If I see something I'm curious about or might have an alternative idea, I'll usually post.

[JDR88]

Ima following

[Tx Firefighter]

I'm just going through a quiet time and don't feel like posting as often as I have in the past. That don't mean we aren't all out here sitting on the edges of our seats watching though. Keep going.

[aggie91]

Thanks Guys, I was just was not feeling the love I guess. I know alot of people post all the time, and some just like you guys have said. I think it was the weather that got me a little down yesterday.

I made a SMALL amount of progress today, I measured for the driveshaft and set the pinion angle. I just need to tighten up the bolts to the correct torque.

I got lucky on the driveshaft I am using that came out of Korbin's Sunburn. I had thought it was going to be too short since we thought we set the engine back further in it. Well it must have not been set back as much as we thought. The driveshaft was right on the money for length. The only thing wrong was the u-joint for the rearend was wrong. The 12 bolt that was in Sunburn had the smaller diameter caps and not as wide. The 10 bolt I am using has larger caps and is wider. SO, I took the shaft down the shop that built it for me origanally, they had the correct conversion u-joint in stock, so about 45 minutes later and $75.69, I have a shaft that will bolt in with no worries. The part number for the U-joint is listed as 5-3022X on the ticket, the description says it is a 1310 to Saginaw.

Got home and it slid right in. The bad part is that there is a bunch of crap in the bolt holes on the yoke and the bolts won't go in. I need to run a 5/16"-24 tap thru the holes to clean them up. That will have to wait for tomorrow.

Well that is all for today...

[wideopen1967]

Which flip kit did you use? Subscribed.