LS swap for my 75

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

So finally making progress on it. Need to figure out the fuel lines. My motor has the return lines. I'm new to AN lines learning as I go. I order dirty dingo mounts, ac delco pump, and 87 tank and sender

For my 72 with a LQ9 swap I ran hard line with 3/8 compression to AN fitting on either end to adapt to a short AN flex line. I heard stories of AN line weeping fuel after time.
For my 78 2wd blazer I used all OEM style nylon line. 3/8 feed and 5/16 return. I used brass fitting at the 87+ EFI tank module. I added a 1996 Impala SS inline fuel filter on the frame rail with OEM quick disconnects. I adapted to EFI rubber hose between the carb and the bypass regulator but that was specific to my application. You can run it all the way to the intake. You should have a fuel pressure regulator at the fuel rail if it had a return line. Just add some heat protection on the nylon line if it runs near exhaust/headers.

Check out the link in my signature to see part numbers. I got most of my parts from www.amazon.com

[lowrodderchev]

I'll check it out thank you definitely added some clarity

[lowrodderchev]

Does anybody if these fitting will work for my lines? The ones pictured are my fuel rail lines. I'm planning on running steel braided lines from there to solid metal line to the tank

[lowrodderchev]

Also I'm guessing I can just run a stainless steel line directly to sender. And tie this filter somewheres in the mix

[terrylgreenjr]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

Does anybody if these fitting will work for my lines? The ones pictured are my fuel rail lines. I'm planning on running steel braided lines from there to solid metal line to the tank

Attachment 1517225

Attachment 1517226

Those are the adapters I used for my swap. I also used the factory metal fuel lines from my 91 Suburban. They make a 3/8 and 5/16 compression to -6an fitting that I used to go from the hardline on the frame rail to steel braided line to the fuel rail. My truck was TBI and I changed the in tank pump to the higher output type and ran the factory fuel lines from the tank to the front

[lowrodderchev]

thank you that helps a lot. I'm new to the whole AN6 lines. ive really own carb motors

[terrylgreenjr]

You will not be disappointed with the LS swap. Ive done it twice and would do it again in a heart beat. There's a little learning curve to start with but all worth it.

[lowrodderchev]

No lie im learning new stuff everyday lol

[lowrodderchev]

thanx everyone for your help I'm going to start on Monday parts will be coming in as I go along. mainly fuel lines and I still need to figure out my transmission lines. I will post up pix of everything I can. a local guy is doing my harness and will be done by Thursday so hopefully with my week off i'll get it done.

[Ski-me]

Late to the game but love the project!

I do have the 90/91 NP241 in my Blazer and had no issues with 35" tires. Plenty stout.

If you do consider a SYE, I ended up going with JB Conversions....great company but really hard to get kit if they are out of stock!! Like several and several months! However, Tom Woods makes a kit too, but I prefer JB's because it's an all new shaft. Woods ends up chopping off an old, used one and making that work. Front Range showed a cheaper slip yoke CV driveshaft, but Woods said I may have vibration issues due to the larger mass of the CV joint on the slip. Therefore I bit the bullet and did the full SYE setup.

Also, I opted for Tom Woods driveshaft but had to get it re-balanced upon arrival. Local shop did say that he's seen a lot of Woods/aftermarket driveshafts requiring balancing upon arrival.

I went with the 90/91 because of the VSS and used it for the electric speedo. Otherwise, my speedo kept bouncing around due to cable driven.

I just gave Larry a skid plate but he came and met me in person....hopefully someday I'll be able to go to his shop and see his 8.1L conversion (s)! Pretty cool and factory looking!

[lowrodderchev]

Originally Posted by Ski-me

Late to the game but love the project!

I do have the 90/91 NP241 in my Blazer and had no issues with 35" tires. Plenty stout.

If you do consider a SYE, I ended up going with JB Conversions....great company but really hard to get kit if they are out of stock!! Like several and several months! However, Tom Woods makes a kit too, but I prefer JB's because it's an all new shaft. Woods ends up chopping off an old, used one and making that work. Front Range showed a cheaper slip yoke CV driveshaft, but Woods said I may have vibration issues due to the larger mass of the CV joint on the slip. Therefore I bit the bullet and did the full SYE setup.

Also, I opted for Tom Woods driveshaft but had to get it re-balanced upon arrival. Local shop did say that he's seen a lot of Woods/aftermarket driveshafts requiring balancing upon arrival.

I went with the 90/91 because of the VSS and used it for the electric speedo. Otherwise, my speedo kept bouncing around due to cable driven.

I just gave Larry a skid plate but he came and met me in person....hopefully someday I'll be able to go to his shop and see his 8.1L conversion (s)! Pretty cool and factory looking!

did you have to run the SYE kit with the 35's? I didn't put one in yet. hopefully i'll be ok for now

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

did you have to run the SYE kit with the 35's? I didn't put one in yet. hopefully i'll be ok for now

You'll just have to see once you get it all hooked up. Each truck is unique for some reason, and may or may not require mods.

I had to do a t-case drop due to vibration with the standard driveshaft. You could try the CV slip yoke idea, I've seen it before with success. So that would be a cheaper approach and also keep your T-case at stock position.

If for some reason it doesn't work out, you could possibly modify the driveshaft again to put a flange on one end, extend it, and have a slip installed in the shaft itself.

My truck really had some funky things going on. I only have 2.5" lift and vibrations (most would say SYE is for 4"+ lift....NOT 2.5" lifts).

I Removed everything and put it to stock suspension....worse vibration. So funky to say the least. The SYE and driveshaft removed 90% of my vibration but I still have a hair. I think it may be coming from flexplate or torque converter. Not much left for me to eliminate!!

[lowrodderchev]

hopefully I wont run into any of those issues mine has a 4 inch lift. almost wish I would have just fork the money out for the 205 adapter so I would have been able to run my stock drivelines

[Ski-me]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

hopefully I wont run into any of those issues mine has a 4 inch lift. almost wish I would have just fork the money out for the 205 adapter so I would have been able to run my stock drivelines

Chances that it would of worked, would of been slim. Either too short after lift, or maybe even too short if a T-case drop happened. We'll just say...it wouldn't of worked without changing the length of driveshaft.

Once you get the main components installed, you'll just have to try and see how the truck handles. You will probably, at minimum, need to install new u-joints just for good measure.

[lowrodderchev]

man I just talk to a local 4x4 shop they want $1,000 to do a slip yoke eliminator to my case and that's if I bring it in myself. ouch LOL. i found a driveline just need to shorten it and put all new u joints. can someone school me on the CV style driveshaft.

[Ski-me]

You can do it yourself....not really that bad. I had never been inside a t-case but took it on myself and had no issues.

Depending on the flange you get, the kit ranges from $340-$425. I installed the $425 with the 1350 output flange.

http://www.jbconversions.com/product...1c_std_sye.php

All you do if follow the instructions that JB put's out. Pretty good with pictures and everything!

http://www.jbconversions.com/pdf/16-1205.pdf

Once all installed, all I did was call Tom Woods with measurement and he fabbed up a custom driveshaft. Another option is to go to your local shop and have them build it for you. In retrospect, this might be the easier thing because your local shop will own any problems if they arise. Worth checking on since you already have a driveshaft. Might make it cheaper if you can re-use some parts.

Now saying all this, first try everything without it and see if it's bad enough.

Any shims for the axle, get steel ones that bolt to spring pack. Those are the safer ones. I do not like the aluminum ones that just slide in.

[lowrodderchev]

Yeah your right im anticipating problems before they even happen. I may be ok. I'll run it as it I and go from there thank you

[lowrodderchev]

so if I'm correct I can connect this line from my fuel rail to the braided line

[lowrodderchev]

then the braided to this that will be connected to my steel line or did I miss something

[lowrodderchev]

And so it begins.

[lowrodderchev]

By Chevy 350

[terrylgreenjr]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

then the braided to this that will be connected to my steel line or did I miss something

Attachment 1520504

This is the correct fitting from the hard line to AN. Then the braided line to the adaptor in the previous post. I bought steel braided line and fitings so I could cut the line the length that I needed instead of trying to measure for a prefab length line.

[lowrodderchev]

Thanx terrylgreenjr. Pulled the transfer case today holy crud that things heavy. So she's defiantly losing weight with the new transfer case lol

[lowrodderchev]

Should I just scrap ot? I've heard these 203 cases aren't really desirable

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by lowrodderchev

Should I just scrap ot? I've heard these 203 cases aren't really desirable

Might try a cl ad, but yeah I'd scrap it if someone didn't buy it in a week. They're not really bad, just the least desirable for being heavy and full time.