The Pig Rig!

[1976gmc20]

I did a quick write up on the components, and what they do.

Thanks for all the information!

It's been almost six years since I had the rear brakes restored, so I guess the light isn't going to heal itself with time.

I ran across something else about just pulling the wire off the switch terminal, but I've tried and I can get the bloody thing to come off! I'm about that || close to just cutting the wire

BTW, just what is the big flat "module" suspended just beside the MC and the valve ???

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Thanks for all the information!

It's been almost six years since I had the rear brakes restored, so I guess the light isn't going to heal itself with time.

I ran across something else about just pulling the wire off the switch terminal, but I've tried and I can get the bloody thing to come off! I'm about that || close to just cutting the wire

BTW, just what is the big flat "module" suspended just beside the MC and the valve ???

Cutting the wire will make the light go out, but probably not fix a problem.

try the quick stomp, I intentionally tripped it two or three times to make sure that the technique works. I made a quick video to illustrate how quick the jab is.

https://youtu.be/OJ9mrFhc5rw

The big flat module is probably the ABS Module, but I can't say for sure, I've never had an ABS equipped square.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by ericjon262

Cutting the wire will make the light go out, but probably not fix a problem.

try the quick stomp, I intentionally tripped it two or three times to make sure that the technique works. I made a quick video to illustrate how quick the jab is.

https://youtu.be/OJ9mrFhc5rw

The big flat module is probably the ABS Module, but I can't say for sure, I've never had an ABS equipped square.

Thanks for the tip! I will go out and try that shortly.

The 89 pickup isn't a square, but it looks to be the same setup as my 91 suburban (which is "newer" but yet "older" ). Only difference is the 91 has steel MC reservoir while the pickup is plastic. The suburban brakes are fine; I'm not sure if I've even replaced the pads in 18 years.

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Thanks for the tip! I will go out and try that shortly.

The 89 pickup isn't a square, but it looks to be the same setup as my 91 suburban (which is "newer" but yet "older" ). Only difference is the 91 has steel MC reservoir while the pickup is plastic. The suburban brakes are fine; I'm not sure if I've even replaced the pads in 18 years.

10-4, the connector for the light is removed, at least on the squarebodies, by squeezing the sides, if you squeeze them, and pull, and the light stays on, disconnect the switch at the parking brake. if it's still on, the wire could be shorted to ground somewhere, or the ABS module is lighting it up somehow.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Thanks for the tip! I will go out and try that shortly.

The 89 pickup isn't a square, but it looks to be the same setup as my 91 suburban (which is "newer" but yet "older" ). Only difference is the 91 has steel MC reservoir while the pickup is plastic. The suburban brakes are fine; I'm not sure if I've even replaced the pads in 18 years.

Okay, I tried the quick stomp as per the video several times and no success.

I finally got the wire pulled off, and the light is still flashing so it's apparently something else. Otherwise brakes work fine and fluid level is staying steady. The parking brake is disconnected because the arm in the LR was destroyed and I haven't yet gotten to a junkyard to try to find another one. The part isn't available new so the shop put it back together without either one. I have the RR parking brake arm in my glovebox.

I compared these two trucks again, the 1989 GMT400 and the 1991 squarebody. The brakes are basically the same and both apparently have the RWAL as there is another device that the rear brake line runs through that upon closer inspection has wires that connect to the flat module. Only difference other than the steel MC reservoir is that the 91 has the PV and RWAL devices mounted crossways under the MC and the 89 has them fore and aft.

If the RWAL works on either truck, it is undetectable when driving. Maybe I just never tried to stop that fast?

[ericjon262]

if I had to guess, then I would say it's probably the ABS module detecting some sort of failure and lighting up to signify it.

[ericjon262]

I've been bleeding the hell out of my brakes, and I need to wake up and face the music that my master cylinder is the wrong size. the JB5 master I have stock, has 2 different size, pistons, one smaller, one larger. The JB7 master has 2 larger, same size pistons about 1/2 way inbetween the JB5 pistons, which partially explains my soft mushy pedal. unfortunately, the larger master, uses smaller fittings on one port, which would be more difficult to adapt compared to larger ports. I have found another master, that's slightly bigger, with one port the same size as my stock lines, and one slightly bigger that I may be able to adapt to with a bushing, but, then I have to worry about pedal response, if I use the larger master, will I be pushing a rock to stop the truck? the larger master would have approximately 10% more area compared to the "correct" master. they're both relatively inexpensive, so I think I'll try the larger master since it will require less work to fit, and see how the truck responds.

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by ericjon262

I've been bleeding the hell out of my brakes, and I need to wake up and face the music that my master cylinder is the wrong size. the JB5 master I have stock, has 2 different size, pistons, one smaller, one larger. The JB7 master has 2 larger, same size pistons about 1/2 way inbetween the JB5 pistons, which partially explains my soft mushy pedal. unfortunately, the larger master, uses smaller fittings on one port, which would be more difficult to adapt compared to larger ports. I have found another master, that's slightly bigger, with one port the same size as my stock lines, and one slightly bigger that I may be able to adapt to with a bushing, but, then I have to worry about pedal response, if I use the larger master, will I be pushing a rock to stop the truck? the larger master would have approximately 10% more area compared to the "correct" master. they're both relatively inexpensive, so I think I'll try the larger master since it will require less work to fit, and see how the truck responds.

something of note here:

never trust parts store info. on the Oreilly auto parts website, they list the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks as having different size brake master fittings, they are swapped front to back, but are not different sizes.

[1976gmc20]

My understanding is that the Alcan and Cassiar highways are paved all the way now, so it's not quite the adventure that it was back in 1977/1979. I would suggest doing the Cassiar at least one direction as the scenery is breathtaking the entire 400 or so miles through northwestern BC. I did it both ways, and it was much improved coming back 2 years later.

Unless things have changed in 40 years, there isn't much real off-road adventure in Alaska. Mostly you have to hike, fly, or boat off a maintained road. Pretty much everything is either a built road or muskeg/bush/mountains. Of course there are some gravel roads where a capable vehicle is always an advantage, but there's a good chance you may never lock in your hubs. The only real "four wheeling" I ever got to do up there was gleaning firewood from power line right of ways. You probably can't do stuff like that anymore, and anyway you can get buried to the headlights if you go the wrong place and that's a little too much "fun."

It's a dang shame that you can't take a significant sidearm through Canada, at least that I know of? You might want to check into the paperwork to take a .30-30 levergun or a 12 gauge slug gun with you.

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

My understanding is that the Alcan and Cassiar highways are paved all the way now, so it's not quite the adventure that it was back in 1977/1979. I would suggest doing the Cassiar at least one direction as the scenery is breathtaking the entire 400 or so miles through northwestern BC. I did it both ways, and it was much improved coming back 2 years later.

Unless things have changed in 40 years, there isn't much real off-road adventure in Alaska. Mostly you have to hike, fly, or boat off a maintained road. Pretty much everything is either a built road or muskeg/bush/mountains. Of course there are some gravel roads where a capable vehicle is always an advantage, but there's a good chance you may never lock in your hubs. The only real "four wheeling" I ever got to do up there was gleaning firewood from power line right of ways. You probably can't do stuff like that anymore, and anyway you can get buried to the headlights if you go the wrong place and that's a little too much "fun."

It's a dang shame that you can't take a significant sidearm through Canada, at least that I know of? You might want to check into the paperwork to take a .30-30 levergun or a 12 gauge slug gun with you.

Planning to take a ferry partway up don't really have a particular destination in mind yet, but I want to put tires on glacier at some point during the trip. the way back will be entirely over the road. it will be one hell of a shake down run, after I get back, I plan to leave for speed week in Bonneville, and then hit Arches National park. who knows what else!

[1976gmc20]

The stretch from Terrace BC up to Watson Lake YT (the 90 degree turn right on the line) is the Cassiar Highway (37, I think). Very beautiful; don't miss Boya Lake! The side trip down to Stewart past Bear Glacier is well worth it, though I guess there is a lot less ice now than 40 years ago when the toe of the glacier was clear down to the water right across from the road.

I wonder how one would handle a fuel pump failure on the road ??? I guess start with a brand new one and hope for the best

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

The stretch from Terrace BC up to Watson Lake YT (the 90 degree turn right on the line) is the Cassiar Highway (37, I think). Very beautiful; don't miss Boya Lake! The side trip down to Stewart past Bear Glacier is well worth it, though I guess there is a lot less ice now than 40 years ago when the toe of the glacier was clear down to the water right across from the road.

I wonder how one would handle a fuel pump failure on the road ??? I guess start with a brand new one and hope for the best

I'll most likely start with a brand new one. I have a 40 gallon tank to put in it now and am debating on whether or not to install it before the trip. if I put the 40 in, It will definitely have a new pump, and I may or may not carry a spare. probably not as they don't really fail too often... (knock on wood...)

I appreciate the trip plan feedback more than you can imagine. I have never been to Alaska and I really don't have a plan. I made a goal about 6 months ago to drive to all 50 states, Alaska being the last hard one to get to. if you're wondering, I already have Hawaii checked off. I worked in the engineroom on a vessel that transited to Hawaii so I count that.

[ericjon262]

well, I don't have anything to cool to report. I picked up some steel at an auction, in the pictures, it looked like it was 1/8" wall, turns out, it's 1/4", so I'm not sure whether or not I will make bumpers out of it.



I got the driveshaft back and installed, and the new master cylinder in, but I need to bleed the brakes again. hopefully everything goes off without a hitch and on saturday I can take it for a shakedown tour around the block or something.

[1976gmc20]

I was considering removing our Suburban rear (middle) seat so that I could put a mattress in the back and have a foot well between the bed and the front seats. You can't open the barn doors from the inside so if you're sleeping inside, you have to enter/exit through the back seat doors. But LadyGMC wasn't too keen on the idea so I think we are just going to sell or trade it for a nice GMT400 pickup and a small pickup camper.

It's nice that you are doing a build in order to actually go out and travel in it, rather than just a show truck or something to sell and start over.

[ericjon262]

the "bedframe" is coming along nicely



in the truck:



rough cut plywood thrown on top



further cut with hinge added



both hinges



lifts up gullwing style. I still need to add a filler piece in beneath the side rails to keep things from rolling out the bottom, but it functions ok. it's held in place by the hinge the seatback would have used, and I'm going to add a bracket to bolt it to the floor near the front on each side. I also need to add a hole to lift it by, and a kickstand to hold it up while it's open.



I also got a new favorite toy, Hypertherm Max40 plasma cutter, it's probably 30+ years old, but ti works and was about $700 less than a new one!

[1976gmc20]

So what is your expedition load out plan?

Will you slide you mattress to the front and have a couple feet at the back for cargo, or for a chuckwagon box ?

[ericjon262]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

So what is your expedition load out plan?

Will you slide you mattress to the front and have a couple feet at the back for cargo, or for a chuckwagon box ?

I was planning on using an air mattress than can be easily moved around as needed. I really need to start planning what I am going to take with me so I can figure out how and where it's going to go.

The brakes on this thing have been giving me hell, turns out, my brand new master leaks... that'll prevent you from stopping for sure.



the trans cooler lines were a bit too long, and the ends had the wrong angle to them, so I chopped the slack out and put 90 degree ends on instead. I gained a pretty good bit of clearance with it.

[1976gmc20]

Those "aeroquip" type fittings are handy! We used to find hoses in trashcans and junkyards, then go buy some new bulk hose and change the fittings over. People were throwing away hoses with re-usable fittings and thought we were crazy digging through the trash! I plumbed most of a log loader that way.

Anyway, I had a crazy idea about building a raised platform for sleeping in the back with storage underneath, and taking out the second seat like you did for access and a footwell and maybe some storage on one side. I think we're going to just trade for a long bed pickup instead.

[ericjon262]

I like the reusable fittings, they come in handy for sure!

in the process of redoing the trans cooler line ends, I noticed the fluid looked pretty bad, I also remembered that the trans didn't really like to shift right, and being that I plan to drive this thing to Alaska(4000+ miles in a relatively untested truck... ) I decided to have it rebuilt, I called around, and after a couple hours of talking to very incompetent sounding shops, I found one about an hour away that said he could do it for a reasonable price. I set a new personal best, from the time I hung up the phone, to the time I had the transmission out in the back of my other truck pulling out of the driveway was less than 2 hours! he told me that unless something crazy happened, he could probably have it done tomorrow before he closed up shop! if he does, I'll get it installed before I go to bed tomorrow!

[68Timber]

Please keep the thread going when you're driving to Alaska. Love to see the squares road tripping.

[ericjon262]

I'll keep the thread up as long as I have the Pig Rig, updates will probably be in batch form during the trip though.

well, transmission isn't done...

in other news, I found out that if I bolt my tow hooks up differently, they become tusks!



lol! I'm definitely doing this now!

I started work on the front bumper, but I'm not sure what route to take, I need to make sure there's room for a winch, I think I'm going to run one of these:

https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadrate...-stealth-winch

or these

https://www.quadratec.com/p/smittybi...n2-winch-97417

anyone have an opinion on synthetic rope instead of steel? my biggest concern would be abrasion of the synthetic.

the bumper progress is otherwise nothing to write home about, so far, I've cut two brackets and held the tube up to it.



it will be significantly more contoured to the truck than a straight line, but I'm not sure quite how much.

[1976gmc20]

I like the big square bumper, but I would somehow integrate tow hooks into the bumper instead of separate hooks bolted to the frame.

If it wasn't for leaving room for a winch, I would suggest one of those big pin hitches right in the middle of the bumper like logging trucks have: tow big triangular plates sticking out with a big pin that drops down through matching holes.

[ericjon262]

not much in the way of updates, I got the transmission back, it's installed, as well as the new master cylinder. the brakes are still a little squishy, and I have some driveline vibration I need to look into, I think I may need some axle shims to get the pinion angle right in the back, it's at a kinda odd angle right now. adjusting the TV cable proved to be way more of a pain in the ass than I expected, the automatic adjustment feature of the cable didn't want to work, so I had to manipulate it by hand to make it work, which made for lots of short minute drives followed with me under the hood for 10 minutes doing adjustments. the cable design is great when it works, but when it doesn't, it sucks.

I'm going to start work on the bumper again over the coarse of the next week, hopefully I can get something suitable built without too much work, I also need to find a winch so I can figure out mounting to said bumper.


1970gmc20, got a picture of what you are refering to? I'm not sure I've seen it.

most of my neighbors have been shocked to see the thing moving again... lol.

[1976gmc20]

1970gmc20, got a picture of what you are refering to? I'm not sure I've seen it.

Here's a walk around video of a KW:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBFiqe6SmRQ

That looks like a one piece bolt on hitch. I was just thinking you could torch something out of a couple pieces of plate or better yet, a couple chunks of large channel, and weld it right to your new bumper. I always liked to use something that had an L-shape so I could weld it flat to the main part of whatever I was building, instead of trying to clamp a plate at exactly 90 degrees.

[ericjon262]

1970gmc20, I might do something like that, it depends on if I get a winch or not.

A quick shot of the transmission awaiting the t-case



this was the first start of a bumper, I wasn't happy with the results though, so I scrapped it.



I then got 4 pieces of flat stock, drilled the appropriate holes, and bolted them to the frame. once they were bolted in place, I tack welded them to ensure they didn't move relative to each other.



then I tacked the tube to it,



then I cut two V-notches into it at each frame rail.



and, with the assistance of a 2x4 and a ratchet strap, bent the ends to a fairly close match to the grill.



Next, I am going to cut pockets to hold a couple of ammo cans and allow for storage of a recovery gear. if I can find on before I leave for alaska, I will also notch it and install a winch between the frame rails.