Painting emblems using lacquer paint and a hypodermic syringe

[Waldoe]

i have a new project now. very nice

[magicoolbus]

I used jewelers resin and the white pigment and the red. While not stock colors, I gave a similar result as the O.P.

[kingstrider]

Gentlemen, those emblems are very nicely done, thanks for posting photos. It is good to show other options for folks that want to do something similar.

Having also used resin I can say it works well, especially if you are going for a custom look like on the emblems shown. Epoxy cures hard so is very durable, much better than lacquer I'm sure. The downside is color selection is very limited for solid opaque hues, though they can be altered somewhat by mixing. Bubbles in the finish are another potential problem but can be minimized by allowing the parts to slowly cure at room temperature or by putting them in a pressure pot overnight. The biggest disadvantage, however, is removal and refinishing of the resin should the need ever arise due to color fade, cracking etc. This can be a real pain since you usually have to heat the part to soften the resin and physically scrape it off, though in some cases you can just pry it out with a tool. Just something for others to think about before going that direction since it is intended to be permanent.

In my case I went with lacquer paint since it looks more original with the right thickness and sheen. Compared side by side, epoxy resin looks like thick glossy plastic because that's what it is. Lacquer also costs less, about $8 for 2 bottles of finish which is readily available and can be found in almost any store. Shade selection is also very good which allows better matching of original colors. Plus it is easy to use, just shake and apply, no mixing required. Drying time is also substantially less, usually a couple of hours and can be accelerated by putting the parts in an oven at 170°F. Perhaps best of all, it can be easily removed if desired, something worth considering when repainting vintage and hard to find OEM parts. Only time will tell how the lacquer holds up but remember they used to finish cars with lacquer paint so I know it is a durable finish.

For those that are sitting on the fence, you really just have to ask yourself what you are most concerned with, longevity or authenticity. It would be interesting to compare how the two methods hold up over time.

[snipescastle2]

One thing that I did with my fender emblems, was to shoot some 2k Clear over them once they had cured, just to give them a little UV protection. I'm thinking of trying a larger scale resin project later, possibly the grill "Bow Tie"
but, using a transparent "Blue" maybe even with LED back lighting........ If I knew of a cheap Mirror "Silver" I think I could even replicate the factory look...
Have a good one!
Ben

[Sicklajoie]

That came out "Super"!
Nice job!

[magicoolbus]

Bubbles in the resin are super easy to get out. All you do is get a coffee stirrer and gently blow across the surface. They magically disappear!
JB

[In The Ten Ring]

Impressive!

[Elliot949]

Great Job right there...

[Bishops Trucks]

That is one of the best tips I have ever seen. Now I need to find those needles you use.

[FlameOut]

Originally Posted by Bishops Trucks

That is one of the best tips I have ever seen. Now I need to find those needles you use.

I was checking Amazon and there are a ton, but I don't know which are correct for this. Could someone in the know maybe post a link?

[kingstrider]

Originally Posted by FlameOut

I was checking Amazon and there are a ton, but I don't know which are correct for this. Could someone in the know maybe post a link?

The monoject 22 gauge needles work best for lacquer, I've used as small as a 27 gauge but they are a bit harder to use. You can always ask your veterinarian as well.

[73737373]

Just a point of clarification, after you strip the original paint off and the badges are "bare", take a wet toothbrush (soft bristle) and some Barkeeper's (or Bartenders)Friend (or other non abrasive cleanser) and clean up all in between and around the letters. Barkeeper's friend ought to be renamed "Emblem Restorer's Friend" because it's just magic. I have made/saved countless hundreds of dollars over the course of time doing nothing more than buying old emblems, door handles and you name it and doing the Bartenders Friend trick on them. As a matter of fact, taking 3 hours off work today to go home and enjoy a warm late fall Oklahoma day doing that to a bunch of pieces I've picked up over the course of the past summer.

[Steeveedee]

I use the Barkeeper's Friend in my coppersmithing work for cleaning. Be sure to wear gloves if you have your mitts in it for a long while.

I like the original lacquer solution, and the epoxy one, too!

My wife must have 20 shades of red nail polish that I can poach a little of to get the color just right!

[FlameOut]

Is that Barkeepers Friend stuff you're referring to the powder stuff (like Ajax or Comet) or the liquid? I was checking Amazon and found a couple of different ones

[73737373]

Yes, it is a powder, but it's non abrasive. That's the key. I think Bon-Ami makes a non abrasive cleanser, as well. Cleansers w/grit in them will scratch.

[custom10nut]

Timing is everything. I could have used this two months ago, when I repainted my emblems. Mine are the "Custom/10" and "8-350" type. This technique would have been a lot easier than the way I did it. Because my emblems have the black behind the chrome, I started to carefully mask everything off, but then I figured this: paint the whole thing with black and carefully peel it off the chrome. Well to to make a long story short, it took a little while, but they turned out pretty good (IMO). I used a sharpened piece of wood to peel back the paint without scratching the chrome, and my picks to reach the tight spots. One thing I didn't do and now wish I did, was to strip them of all the old paint first.

[badpeanut]

I'm using 23 gauge blunt tip needles along with 3mL syringes, but am having difficulty drawing nail polish into the syringe. Any tips or tricks?

[NorCalC20LWB]

Possibly 23 gauge is a bit small? I first tried on a test piece with the 18 gauge needle and it did seem the black nail polish was kind of "clotted" or congealed. My wife said to shake it up better, that did help somewhat. I also thinned it with some lacquer thinner, went on well but it seemed too thin and was concerned the finished product would not be thick enough. Ended up getting another black nail polish and making sure it was at room temperature first, went on nice and thick and smooth.

With the multiple trips to Rite Aid to purchase nail polish, I think the folks that work there thought I was joining Bruce Jenner

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by badpeanut

I'm using 23 gauge blunt tip needles along with 3mL syringes, but am having difficulty drawing nail polish into the syringe. Any tips or tricks?

I used the needle for refilling printer inks. It's much bigger diameter and volume. Worked perfect.

[Steelheader]

Well I know what I'm doing this week , ( taking off my badges and trying this out ) and with the needle situation I know Tractor Supply carries them for livestock vaccinations, thanks for the great tips guys .

[88Stanger]

damn good job

[chevrolet4x4]

Great thread by Kingstrider, I think i will be doing my emblems real soon, Thanks!

[In The Ten Ring]

So 23 gauge needles may be too small? I need to do this ASAP.

[NorCalC20LWB]

I used 18 & 21 gauge. The finger nail polish seemed to flow pretty easily, so would think 23 G would work, just take more time and patience. What worked best for me was to shake it really well and warm it up a bit, sun, hand, whatever.

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks man, I'll try and get an 18 gauge needle today, I have a prescription for those but I've been using the smaller 23 and 25 gauges for treatment.

*I am a recovering intravenous mercury addict if anyone is curious.

Anyone ever go into the pharmacy and tell the clerk "your cyanide inhaler needs a refill?" I love doing stuff like that.