If you want to do a 5.3/4L60E install, lots of pictures and info.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Subscribed

[lazybra1n]

Originally Posted by BustedTruck

Thanks shifty. I've heared another myth that the genIII pump makes more pressure causing the gear box to leak. Lets see if someone can dispell that one.

I think my box is the original one. hasn't started leaking yet...

[DavidB]

I just finished my 5.3 4l60e install. I've been driving it every day for the past two weeks and have not blown the gear box out yet. I used fitting from jegs that made the pressure line a bolt in deal.(I'll post part #'s if any one is interested) I tried the cpp tubular motor perch. The motor bolted in with them but the exhaust would not come close to fitting. The perfomance online perches worked great (I'm running stock manifolds) By the way I'm very pleased with the end results the driveability is great and it will smoke the right rear all the way though second gear.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by DavidB

I used fitting from jegs that made the pressure line a bolt in deal.(I'll post part #'s if any one is interested)

Please post part #'s, probably one of the things I look forward to the most when people post about their transplants. Helps to streamline the process "next time".

[Crank]

I think maybe part numbers and pics of things you may need for this swap would be a good thing, like the differnent motor mount choices for the C-10's from the different manufacturers as well as any other things that may be enlisted to complete this swap... I may think about this swap when I get another C-10, because of the 6.0L in my 2500 I'm becoming pretty favorable of. Thanks again for making this
Brandon

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by shifty

The stock 68-72 low pressure line will work as-is. If you take the stock high pressure side for the new engine, and have a hydraulic shop properly splice it into the stock 68-72 high pressure line (the gearbox end), you've got all the hoses you need. No point in spending money on special fittings unless you're going braided.

Originally Posted by BustedTruck

Thanks shifty. I've heared another myth that the genIII pump makes more pressure causing the gear box to leak. Lets see if someone can dispell that one.

The pump is the exact same one GM has been using for years, just with a different resevoir. The 1" fitting in the rear of the pump will interchange. Just use the old fitting in the new pump and your old hose. If you have upgraded to the late metric(~84-91) steering box, the hose is plug-and-play.

The first pic should be very similar to what is on your truck stock. The GenIII will have either the Saginaw style(third picture-4.8,5.3,6.0), or the Type II remote resevoir(5.7 LS1, LS6). Either way, the fittings are the same. Problem solved-No $ spent!

[Palf70Step]

I'm on board to see this materialize

[krue]

You and me both.

[gringoloco]

How to make your 99-02 Camaro/Firebird harness stand-alone:

[gringoloco]

99-02 ECM pinouts:

Blue Connector

1 - BLACK - PCM Ground
2 - LIGHT GREEN - Crankshaft Position Sensor B+ Supply
3 - PINK/BLACK - Injector 3 Control
4 - LIGHT GREEN/BLACK - Injector 2 Control
5 - Not Used
6 - Not Used
7 - Not Used
8 - GRAY - TP Sensor 5V Reference
9 - Not Used
10 - Not Used
11 - LIGHT BLUE - Knock Sensor Signal Rear
12 - DARK BLUE/WHITE - Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal
13 - Not Used
14 - Not Used
15 - Not Used
16 - Not Used
17 - DARK BLUE - Transmission Range Signal B
18 - RED - Transmission Range Signal C
19 - PINK - Ignition Positive Voltage
20 - ORANGE - Battery Positive Voltage
21 - YELLOW/BLACK - Crankshaft Position Sensor Reference Low
22 - Not Used
23 - GRAY - Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor/Fuel Tank Sender Ground
24 - Not Used
25 - TAN - HO2S Signal Low Bank 2 Sensor 2
26 - TAN - HO2S Signal Low Bank 2 Sensor 1
27 - Not Used
28 - TAN/WHITE - HO2S Signal Low Bank 1 Sensor 2
29 - TAN/WHITE - HO2S Signal Low Bank 1 Sensor 1
30 - Not Used
31 - Not Used
32 - GRAY - Clutch Pedal Position Switch Signal
33 - PURPLE - TCC Brake Switch
34 - ORANGE/BLACK - PNP Switch Signal
35 - Not Used
36 - BLACK - Injector 1 Control
37 - YELLOW/BLACK - Injector 6 Control
38 - Not Used
39 - Not Used
40 - BLACK - PCM Ground
41 - BLACK - EGR Pintle Position Sensor Ground
42 - DARK GREEN - Engine Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control
43 - RED/BLACK - Injector 7 Control
44 - LIGHT BLUE/BLACK - Injector 4 Control
45 - GRAY - A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor 5V Reference
46 - GRAY - Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor 5V Reference
47 - GRAY - EGR Pintle Position Sensor 5V Reference
48 - GRAY - MAP Sensor 5V Reference
49 - Not Used
50 - Not Used
51 - DARK BLUE - Knock Sensor Signal Front
52 - Not Used
53 - BLACK - Transmission Temperature Sensor Ground
54 - ORANGE/BLACK - MAP Sensor Ground
55 - BROWN - EGR Pintle Position Sensor Signal
56 - Not Used
57 - ORANGE - Battery Positive Voltage
58 - DARK GREEN - Serial Data
59 - Not Used
60 - BLACK - TP Sensor Ground
61 - PINK/BLACK - Camshaft Position Sensor Reference Low
62 - Not Used
63 - Not Used
64 - Not Used
65 - PURPLE - HO2S Signal High Bank 2 Sensor 2
66 - PURPLE - HO2S Signal High Bank 2 Sensor 1
67 - Not Used
68 - PURPLE/WHITE - HO2S Signal High Bank 1 Sensor 2
69 - PURPLE/WHITE - HO2S Signal High Bank 1 Sensor 1
70 - BROWN - Low Oil Level Switch
71 - Not Used
72 - Not Used
73 - BROWN/WHITE - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Signal
74 - YELLOW - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Signal
75 - Not Used
76 - BLACK/WHITE - Injector 5 Control
77 - DARK BLUE/WHITE - Injector 8 Control
78 - Not Used
79 - GRAY or WHITE - Skip Shift Solenoid Control (M/T) or 3-2 Shift Solenoid Control (A/T)
80 - BLACK - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Ground



PCM Red Connector

1 - BLACK - PCM Ground
2 - BROWN - TCC Control Solenoid
3 - Not Used
4 - PURPLE - AIR Solenoid Relay Control
5 - Not Used
6 - RED/BLACK - Transmission Fluid Pressure Control Solenoid High
7 - RED - EGR Control
8 - LIGHT BLUE/WHITE - Transmission Fluid Pressure Control Solenoid Low
9 - DARK GREEN/WHITE - Fuel Pump Relay Control
10 - WHITE - Engine Speed (Tach) Output Signal
11 - Not Used
12 - Not Used
13 - WHITE - Cruise Control Enable Signal
14 - RED/BLACK - A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal
15 - RED - Alternator L Terminal
16 - Not Used
17 - DARK GREEN/WHITE - A/C Request Signal
18 - DARK GREEN - A/C Status Signal
19 - Not Used
20 - LIGHT GREEN/BLACK - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Reference Low
21 - PURPLE/WHITE - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Signal
22 - Not Used
23 - Not Used
24 - DARK BLUE - TP Sensor Signal
25 - TAN - IAT Sensor Signal
26 - PURPLE - Ignition Control 1
27 - RED - Ignition Control 7
28 - LIGHT BLUE/WHITE - Ignition Control 6
29 - DARK GREEN/WHITE - Ignition Control 4
30 - DARK BLUE - VTD Fuel Enable Signal
31 - YELLOW - MAF Sensor Signal
32 - LIGHT GREEN - MAP Sensor Signal
33 - DARK BLUE - Engine Cooling Fan Relay 2 and 3 Control
34 - DARK GREEN/WHITE - EVAP Canister Purge Valve Control
35 - Not Used
36 - BROWN - AIR Pump Relay Control
37 - DARK GREEN - Cruise Control Inhibit
38 - Not Used
39 - RED - Camshaft Position Sensor B+ Supply
40 - BLACK - PCM Ground
41 - GRAY - EGR Position Sensor Ground
42 - TAN/BLACK - TCC Enable Circuit
43 - DARK GREEN/WHITE - A/C Clutch Relay Control
44 - LIGHT GREEN - Reverse Inhibit Solenoid Control
45 - WHITE - EVAP Canister Vent Valve Control
46 - BROWN/WHITE - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control
47 - YELLOW/BLACK - Transmission Shift Solenoid B
48 - LIGHT GREEN - Transmission Shift Solenoid A
49 - Not Used
50 - DARK GREEN/WHITE - Vehicle Speed Output Circuit
51 - YELLOW/BLACK - Transmission Temperature Sensor Signal
52 - Not Used
53 - GRAY/BLACK - Spark Retard Signal
54 - PURPLE - Fuel Level Sensor Signal
55 - Not Used
56 - Not Used
57 - PURPLE - IAT Sensor Ground
58 - Not Used
59 - Not Used
60 - BROWN - Ignition Control Reference Low Bank 1
61 - BROWN/WHITE - Ignition Control Reference Low Bank 2
62 - Not Used
63 - PINK - Transmission Range Signal A
64 - DARK GREEN - Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal
65 - Not Used
66 - PURPLE/WHITE - Ignition Control 8
67 - RED/WHITE - Ignition Control 2
68 - DARK GREEN - Ignition Control 5
69 - LIGHT BLUE - Ignition Control 3
70 - Not Used
71 - Not Used
72 - Not Used
73 - Not Used
74 - Not Used
75 - Not Used
76 - LIGHT GREEN/WHITE - IAC Coil B High
77 - LIGHT GREEN/BLACK - IAC Coil B Low
78 - LIGHT BLUE/BLACK - IAC Coil A Low
79 - LIGHT BLUE/WHITE - IAC Coil A High
80 - Not Used

[gringoloco]

If you want to re-route your own harness and trim the fat, keeping only the necessary circuits to make the engine run, this is how. This does not include any transmission, emissions or gauge outputs- just the basic external connections for the engine to run. You will have to program(or have programmed) out VATS(Vehicle Anti-Theft System) from the ECM. Should be good for F-Body and truck 99-02.

This will save you from buying a $600 harness. Save that money for a nice lumpy cam and headers

[pcmcobra]

Tighten up Rob.

[jkade]

My goal is to make 350hp to the wheels and get in and running for less than 2 grand and I think I am going to be able to do it. If I go over it will only be about $200. That is buying a 4.8 and used internals to make it a 5.7 and buying all the parts I can off ebay, ls1.com, ls1tech and performance trucks. The harness is not hard to make a stand alone so save the money and do it yourself. You can make your own engine brackets that use the 3 bolt old style gm mounts. I bought a used set of mac mid lenghts that I believe are gonna work that where ceramic coated. If I were using the stock truck intake I know I could keep it below 2 grand and if I was just using the stock motor I could have kept in under $1500. Don't overlook 4.8's you can find them dirt cheap and there is no big hp difference in them and a 5.3 You can make a 4.8 a 5.3 for less than $300 if you know where to look. JM2C we will know in a few weeks how well my little iron 5.7 runs and the total cost involved. One last thing don't be scared of these motors that have over a 100k miles on them, mine had about 112k and it had no ring groove and all the bearings looked great and it had 0 oil leaks.

[68 short step]

here is some more wireing guru stuff.... the PCM on my 00 truck puter puts out a tach signal (duhh, they all do) and all thats needed is to put your tach to read "4 cylinders" and you're set... we'll a 05 trailblazer or a E40 computer does the same but the tach signal is to "weak" for the autometer tach to read, therfore it wont work... how you/i fix this problem is run a switched 12v wire to a 680 OHM resister and jumper it into the tach signal... and you're good to go....

[shifty]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

here is some more wireing guru stuff.... the PCM on my 00 truck puter puts out a tach signal (duhh, they all do) and all thats needed is to put your tach to read "4 cylinders" and you're set... we'll a 05 trailblazer or a E40 computer does the same but the tach signal is to "weak" for the autometer tach to read, therfore it wont work... how you/i fix this problem is run a switched 12v wire to a 680 OHM resister and jumper it into the tach signal... and you're good to go....

can you toss together a cheezy wire diagram for the sake of prosperity? i thought the tach signal was all serial data (kinda like oil pressure)?

[68 short step]

here would be the simpliest way to do that..and if you cant tell thats a autometer ultalight

[shifty]

i still haven't gotten my damned tach and fuel gauges from Jegs.

[billyjo]

My Autometer tach just hooked right to the wire coming from the PCM (Speartech had it labeled) and I don't recall switching it to 4 cylinder either. I'm going to pull my dash apart to swap some gauges out this week, I'll take a look then.

Bill

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by billyjo

My Autometer tach just hooked right to the wire coming from the PCM (Speartech had it labeled) and I don't recall switching it to 4 cylinder either. I'm going to pull my dash apart to swap some gauges out this week, I'll take a look then.

Bill

ok this may be true, you can program the pcm to put out a 8cyl. sig not a 4cyl. but if not program to do so, it puts out a 4 cyl. sig..

[69Custom]

Edited by Moderator.
Please limit discussion of sales to the classifieds area of the board.

[BustedTruck]

Bringing back an old thread with lots of good info.Maybe we can get HART_ROD to update it. There has been a bunch of questions about this conversion lately & this may help.

[trenz68]

I Agree!!

[LOW DOUGH]

Been woundering about this thread. I will have to go back and read what everyone has added to it.

[70rs/ss]

Me 3 I just found a 4.8 and a 5.3 at the local wrecker and with all the LOW-BUCK installs of late, I am willing to try to make mounts, hack wires, etc, but the myths about an in-tank fuel pump, with baffles (at $600 or more for a custom fuel tank!) or if a simple holley in line pump is adequate and way less $$$. I figured what this swap would cost with all the "coorect" purchased parts and it was rediculous (and led me to sell my new 6.0/4l80e before even pulling it off the crate!! Now I see the swaps going on a lot here, so if you know, TELL US!!! I'd pay someone here to do the wiring hacking vs the $400-600 Speartech, etc gets to do it, but a good diagram of what I need don't need etc, etc would be better for all of us!! I copied and pasted the pic chart, but I want to run my 4l60e trans as well, so is there more wiring hacking involved to use the 4.8/5.3/6.0 and 4l60/4l80e as a drop in??? Inquiring minds HAVE TO KNOW?!

Thanks for bringing this one back, I never saw it the first time around.

[BustedTruck]

If you know the year & model of what your engine came out of I can get you the pcm pinout information and help on which wires to remove.You will have to get a tune to bypass the passlock system.