55.2-59 1958 Saab story

[Father&son56project]

Josh, the pics and details on your build are first rate (as are the suggestions and input you are receiving). This is shaping up to be a perfectly documented build, so keep posting as much as you can. I look forward to watching you guys problem solve your way through this project!

[gottattooz]

I trimmed away the fresh air duct and got it to sit lower. Then the wiper cowl got in the way, so I marked and removed it. It's pivoting on something on the sides of the dash and I can't see what it is.

-Josh

[dsraven]

Place an old sheet or similar over the saab part and lower the body till it gets caught. Pull on the sheet until you come to the spot where the sheet wont move because it is pinched. That will be the tight spot.

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Place an old sheet or similar over the saab part and lower the body till it gets caught. Pull on the sheet until you come to the spot where the sheet wont move because it is pinched. That will be the tight spot.

I know it's the dash board mounts. I've cut away almost everything I can on the panel truck and it still hits. If I peel the dash pad off, I can see if I can modify how it mounts and make it skinnier.

-Josh

[dsraven]

Have you checked how the front wheels will be for centering in the wheel openings of the fenders yet? Just wondering because it seems like the old body is mocking up quite a way back. Would hate to see you spend a bunch of time only to find the front axle line is gonna be too far outta whack to make it look right. I seen a guy doing a 4 headlight truck and his old truck firewall lined up with the trailblazer firewall.
Keep postin, its great to see how fast you are getting things done.

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Have you checked how the front wheels will be for centering in the wheel openings of the fenders yet? Just wondering because it seems like the old body is mocking up quite a way back. Would hate to see you spend a bunch of time only to find the front axle line is gonna be too far outta whack to make it look right. I seen a guy doing a 4 headlight truck and his old truck firewall lined up with the trailblazer firewall.
Keep postin, its great to see how fast you are getting things done.

I marked the center line of the wheels with a plumb bob and a sharpie. That's why centering the rear wheels was so important. Once I get the dash as low as I can, I'll fit the front fenders and make sure there's clearance. I promise I'll post pictures.

-Josh

[6DoF]

seams like you could cut out a lot more firewall above that pinch weld seam on the panel ... no?

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by 6DoF

seams like you could cut out a lot more firewall above that pinch weld seam on the panel ... no?

I'm getting there. It's probably going to have to be removed, but I'm trying to cut out a little at a time. I'm trying to avoid removing the dash pad, but I'm just delaying the inevitable.

-Josh

[dsraven]

behind the dash pad etc there is a metal sub structure that is 2 parts bolted together in the middle and the heater, stereo. steering column etc is all hung off this. the drivers side is an alloy casting that the speedo cluster slips into and bolts up along with supporting the heater ducting etc. on mine I had to narrow that to fit inside the old truck body. unless you cut into the old truck to accommodate that extra width you will likely need to do the same as well as narrow the dash pad. I would send you a pic but i'm not home right now. I narrowed the structure and fabbed some mounts to bolt that to the inside of the old truck cab.

[gottattooz]

Phew! I got the cab to sit on the dash like I wanted without modifying the dash support brackets. I drilled out the door welds for the wiper cowl cover and removed it. From under the dash, I could see scribe marks where the metal corners were sticking up, so I beat them in with a sledge hammer. I set the body down and voila!! I'm so relieved.

-Josh

[gottattooz]

I rolled it outside to get a good look at the stance. I put the driver's seat in it and my dad took a picture of my seated position. And also pictures of how the dash meets the windshield frame.

-Josh

[gottattooz]

I turned it around to mess with the front fenders. I cut away the necessary sheet metal to clear the fenders and held the fronts in place with Jack stands and zip ties. I'm gonna have to relocate the battery and move the radiator back a bit, but I'm loving the look. The grey fenders are from my dad's 1959 Chevy pickup when I rebuilt that for him 12 or so years ago.

-Josh

[dsraven]

Woo hoo! Good on you for getting the job done in a short time.
It kinda looks to like the front axle center line could go ahead some but that's just me. Most of these trucks get the front axle moves forward an inch to inch and half when they are lowered. That's a personal preference thing so if you like it and the tires dont rub then you're good to go.
I see the seating position us further back than a regular cab would allow. Mine too. I extended the cab on mine to accommodate that.

[dsraven]

Curious what your rocker height is.

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Curious what your rocker height is.

I didn't measure the rocker height. Odds are I'll raise the ride height and probably stagger the wheels. The front wheels are right up against the rims, so I'll probably raise the suspension and run a smaller diameter rim with a low profile tire.

-Josh

[dsraven]

Did t notice with all you have going on. Is yours AWD or 4x4 or just RWD? Mine is AWD 4x4 so tire outside diameter needs to stay the same.q

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Did t notice with all you have going on. Is yours AWD or 4x4 or just RWD? Mine is AWD 4x4 so tire outside diameter needs to stay the same.q

It's been converted to rwd

-Josh

[dsraven]

Will you, or did you, flash the computer to eliminate the 4x4 stuff, body module for accy that wont be used like rear side door locks/windows etc? I haven't done any of that yet other than parse out and remove a few circuits. My plan was to get the frame swap done, then start at the back and work forward, finishing to final epoxy primer. Box is done, now the cab work will start if I ever get the summer projects jar emptied.
Nice work you do with great ingenuity. Thinking outside the box instead of looking for a kit or a bolt on. Great documentation on the site too, it makes me wanna clear out my shop of other "gotta do's" and get back on the 57.

[6DoF]

well that came together!!

[dsraven]

you're flying man! it looks mean with those teeth.
are you able to turn the front tires without rubbing on the rear of the fender opening?

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you're flying man! it looks mean with those teeth.
are you able to turn the front tires without rubbing on the rear of the fender opening?

Not at the current ride height. I ordered a bolt pattern jig to change the bolt pattern from 6x127mm to 6x120mm. That way I can pick from a variety of other wheel options. The Chevy traverse has a set of wheels I like that are 18x7.5 with a perfect offset. So I'll swap the bolt pattern and run lower profile tires in the front and adjust the ride height just enough to turn without rubbing

-Josh

[dsraven]

Are the traverse wheels a smaller rim diameter? The existing sidewall cant get much shorter can it?
Keep working and posting, you are making great progress.

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Are the traverse wheels a smaller rim diameter? The existing sidewall cant get much shorter can it?
Keep working and posting, you are making great progress.

The current rims are 22x9s with a +45mm offset. Traverse rims are 18x7.5 with +53mm offset. That'll pull the tire in about an inch and I'll probably run a 45 series sidewall. I have to check tire specs to see what size I need when I get that far down the rabbit hole.

-Josh

[gottattooz]

For reference, here's where the 22s fit in the fender vs a 17 inch spare. The 18s should give me the clearance I'm looking for.

And I have no desire to cut up the fenders to center the wheels. I'm very much a "good enough" kind of fabricator. The rear wheels had to be centered, because it's a smaller opening. As long as I can turn the front wheels without rubbing, that's good enough for me.

-Josh

[dsraven]

you could always "adjust" the fender opening to be toward the rear a bit. chop it out, weld it back where it needs to go, fill in the gaps. up, down, forward, rearward. of course it would help to have a spare set of donor fenders but not essential. doesn't seem like that would stop you, haha.
I like the wheels you picked out. my envoy wheels are 17" with 235/60r17 rubber. I like a little more sidewall, smoother ride.