6.2 starting issues

[brown82]

UPDATE

I have taken off the line from the filter to the lift pump no fuel was coming out of it. But at the same time I notice sparks coming from the starter. I decided to try and fix that issue first before I catch the truck on fire with diesel.

Now it still sparks some and smells like burning wires and just clicks. Did I burn up the solenoid/starter? The 2 red wires and big black one connect the the big bolt and the small purple wire goes on the right side small threaded correct?
I tired placing the big black wire 2 ways. It has the flat washer end with a pointy end to lock in down(facing the solenoid), I thought maybe it wasn't suppose to be that's way causing it to ground out. But putting the pointy locking part of the washer outward still caused the same problem. Clicking.

Urgh this truck is getting worse and worse.

[legendman]

Here is a thread on some starter help

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=140514

You will there are two studs for the little wire, it needs to be on the stud marked "S"

Man this truck is beating you up, hopefully it will get better

[86c20]

this could be the hole problem. on my 6.2 it ran fine and then one day she would not start at all. hit the glow plugs and not even a sputter replaced the starter after it burned up my batt cranked it iover and she runs fine agian. check to see if that starter is any good. sounds like it is jusk. thenget your self a good mini hi tqurk and put that in.

[hatzie]

Make sure to re-install the tail bracket. If it's not there buy or make one. You'll break the (#6) starter to block bolts without it.
If you update from the big heavy direct drive 27MT to the gear reduction 28MT get the tail brace for the new starter.

28MT Brace is #1 The 27MT brace is similar.

[legendman]

^^^^^ X2 Don't forget that bracket, many broken bolts and blocks because the bracket wasn't there.
Here is a pic of 28mt one on my truck for reference.

[86c20]

did the 6.2 have a thick shim under the starter? i think i removed one on the old starter and the new one i didnt put it back and some times it will not engage

[brown82]

Hmmm. Up until these last 3 post I was receiving email notifications.


Back to the problem at hand. I think I figured out my sparking issue that turned into a not turning over.




Now is this a minor problem? The bolt that was holding it was loose.

I'm still not able to get it to start. Because this problem came up.
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[brown82]

That's with the bolt off. So no the bolt isn't missing! I noticed it before I even was ready to take solenoid off.
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[brown82]

I also need to stat this.

When ever I start to crank the volt meter drops from 13 down to 8. Is this starter indeed bad by drawing to much volts? This was before it wont even turn over. I failed to mention this information weeks ago when I originally had the starter checked out by auto parts store. There it would "pass) BUT IMMEDIATELY pop the machines breaker
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[GmtGmt]

bad conections draw alot of power because the resistens gets higher.

these diesel need alot of power to start. you need all engine ground and postive connections to be good with no corroisen and both sets of battery cables tight on the battery post.

starts go bad some times and they will draw alot of amps also bad batterys will too.

I have seen starts for smaller diesel engine pulling almost 500 amps at cranking when they are supose to only uses 150amps. so if you battery is only 600 amps theres not enough juice left.

6.2 diesel can start without glow plugs if you have a good set of batterys with 1000+ CCA each and a good working fast spinning starter.
my 6.2 can start at minus 5 degres cels. with out glow plugs.

[brown82]

Anyone?
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[legendman]

Originally Posted by brown82

I also need to stat this.

When ever I start to crank the volt meter drops from 13 down to 8. Is this starter indeed bad by drawing to much volts? This was before it wont even turn over. I failed to mention this information weeks ago when I originally had the starter checked out by auto parts store. There it would "pass) BUT IMMEDIATELY pop the machines breaker
Posted via Mobile Device

Is this after you fixed the issue on the solenoid?

2 batteries right?

All connections good and clean/ positive and grounds.

I found my battery on the drivers side wasn't helping much because the connections were dirty.

[brown82]

I haven't touched the starter since I found that issue posted in the picture I believe that is causing my sparking.
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[legendman]

2 options right now... get another starter or try and fix that one.

I would get a used gear reduction starter out of a newer truck.
Make sure you get the bracket with it.

If money is tight try cleaning up where that strap bolts on with a wire brush and bend it back so the bolt will grab most of it and put and washer on the bolt and see if you can get it to tighten down and make good contact.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by legendman

2 options right now... get another starter or try and fix that one.

I would get a used gear reduction starter out of a newer truck.
Make sure you get the bracket with it.

If money is tight try cleaning up where that strap bolts on with a wire brush and bend it back so the bolt will grab most of it and put and washer on the bolt and see if you can get it to tighten down and make good contact.

X2 on getting a 93+ 6.5L 5kw 28MT gear reduction starter used or remanned.

The 24v 28MT on my M1008 is night and day difference from the 27MT. The engine spins faster and the batteries don't have to be absolutely perfect to start her up. The other added benefit is I didn't have to be the incredible hulk to put it in.

A quality reman 12v 5kw 28MT should be right around $170 like this one... http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-336-1912-Remanufactu...
DB Electric on Ebay has some mixed reviews on Steel Soldiers for their new $90-$100 Chinese starters. They draw more juice and don't crank as quick as the remanned US made units. The Chinese solenoids are a failure issue too.

GM gets $16 for the 23502557 28MT tail bracket new. You'll need one.

As for fixing that burnt eyelet... There's more to the story than what you can see. It got hot enough to melt the terminal. Maybe you can fix it but I wouldn't be hopeful.

[brown82]

Fix starter.
I have fuel at all cylinders(fuel lines) and it still won't start. What the hell!?
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[legendman]

Didn't read back at all the posts....
Glow plugs working?
Any smoke out of the tail pipe?

[brown82]

Smoke yes plus working yes.
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[legendman]

Originally Posted by brown82

Smoke yes plus working yes.
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How is your glow setup wired up? Factory?
Does the light come in the dash?

If your getting smoke out of the pipes your close.

You can use a hair dryer to get some warm air into the intake and see if it will pop off

[brown82]

It has a pull switch to warm them up until the motor starts and then you push it back in. thats for glow plugs.
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[legendman]

Originally Posted by brown82

It has a pull switch to warm them up until the motor starts and then you push it back in. thats for glow plugs.
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How long are you letting it glow for?

Also have pulled any of the glows and checked them?
Are all of them getting 12v

[brown82]

I don't turn it over until the light dim s off yes all plugs are getting 12v all of them are good
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[legendman]

Originally Posted by brown82

I don't turn it over until the light dim s off yes all plugs are getting 12v all of them are good
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How long is that? If it's a manual setup and you can control how long the glows stay on then I would give it about 10 seconds.

What kind of glow plugs?

[brown82]

I dont know. They were just recently changed out. Manual set up? I think I have counted up to about 10 seconds
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[legendman]

They might be AC Delcos which need more glow time,
Try glowing for 15 seconds.

How did you test the glow plugs?