Newbie thinking about diving into a '65 GMC 1000

[jtrichard]

Now them is some great pics LOL

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

Now them is some great pics LOL

Are they not working for you? This board's photo tools aren't very good, and neither are Google Photos' sharing capabilities.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Are they not working for you? This board's photo tools aren't very good, and neither are Google Photos' sharing capabilities.

It would also be nice if I could edit my posts when I notice the images are dead.

[jtrichard]

Thats MUCH better ...Looks like it is 67 impala switch connector...... Cleaning up NICE
Look here next to last post (post 6) http://www.camaros.net/forums/19-ele...connector.html

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

Thats MUCH better ...Looks like it is 67 impala switch connector...... Cleaning up NICE
Look here next to last post (post 6) http://www.camaros.net/forums/19-ele...connector.html

Sure enough. I don't know how you knew that off the top of your head, that's impressive.

The first thing I need to do is get the wiring right and get this thing started, so I can move it around the driveway as needed for working on it. Then I need to get the brakes in order (so I can stop it more effectively than just the e-brake!).

I really should get my hands on the 63 Chevy Truck Shop Manual, but I can't seem to buy a PDF download version of it... only CD-ROMs or paper copies.

[aerotruk63]

Spend $25 and pay a subscription to this site and you'll get the edit feature. Look how much free advise you've gotten so far and how much more you'll get in the future. A wise investment especially for the edit feature. lol

According to the parts book a 65 GMC uses the part number is 1116658 switch.
Also known as a D1496
Aftermarket US26 like Chevrolet
US31 if you use the flat face lock cylinder.

RockAuto is clearing out US31 which has 2 keys. Use the part number search put in US31 on their website.

[aerotruk63]

I would invest in the GMC shop manual as there can be minor discrepancies with the Chevrolet.
When your working on your truck you'd appreciate a paper copy over your laptop.
Paper never needs charging, you can see paper in the sunlight,
Not affect as much by dust,
Instant access to important pages, sticky notes make for a quick reference,
1965 truck-1965 paper, or reprint of the original.

[TJ's Chevy]

Man the truck cleaned up real nice!

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Sure enough. I don't know how you knew that off the top of your head, that's impressive.

Thanks I just started looking at pics of GM switches until i seen ones that had 6 connectors then found the right pattern ... I love a challenge ..... The correct connector for the truck was also used in Impalas Buick ect. early 60s ....Do you know how to remove the packard 56's from the plastic?
.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

I would invest in the GMC shop manual as there can be minor discrepancies with the Chevrolet.

Interesting, I thought the 1963 Chevy truck manual was the one to use, but you suggest the GMC maintenance manual instead? I agree w/ you about having a paper copy but I thought if I had a PDF version I could print the pages I need when I need them, without ruining the original. Plus a PDF version would be available instantly, instead of having to wait for snail mail.

Originally Posted by jtrichard

Do you know how to remove the packard 56's from the plastic?

Those are the little metal wire connector plugs that are inside the larger plastic plug? I haven't done it before but can't be that hard. Then just wire it individually and wrap with tape or something? I was thinking of trying to find a stock plastic socket to replace the Impala part, but just reusing the packard 56s sounds simple. I'll just need to figure out which color wire goes to which pin of the ignition switch, which I assume I can find w/ some searching on this forum

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Man the truck cleaned up real nice!

Thanks, there are lots of dings, scrapes, dents, and larger areas of damage but overall it seems to be in pretty good shape.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

Do you know how to remove the packard 56's from the plastic?

Thanks for the idea, I figured out how to pop the wires out of the plastic housing. Would like to get my hands on an OEM pigtail connector, or at least some shells for the packard 56s so I don't have live wires exposed.

Looks like something like Delphi 2977253 would work, unfortunately the local O'Reilly is useless and doesn't carry them.

[jtrichard]

That connector and ignition switch was also used in many cars so it should not be hard to find .... GO here and click on buyers guide and it will list what the switch was used in https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...175_0238890290

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

That connector and ignition switch was also used in many cars so it should not be hard to find .... GO here and click on buyers guide and it will list what the switch was used in https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...175_0238890290

I ended up ordering some packard 56 shells and some extra female ends from repairconnector.com for $10 shipped. Not great but not bad.

[Praxiss454]

The gas tank was empty or very near when I brought her home. I poured some gas into the carb, and the truck fired up fairly easily.

It ran off of the carb gas (pretty roughly) for about 15-20 seconds, and then died. Then I replaced the fuel filter and put 5 gallons of gas in the tank. Cranking won't it fire up. It occurs to me there is probably a mechanical fuel pump in this thing and that I need to pour more gas in the carb, and this should be enough to get everything flowing from the tank.

[Captainfab]

I would have first blown out the fuel lines with compressed air to make sure there are no obstructions.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I would have first blown out the fuel lines with compressed air to make sure there are no obstructions.

I don't own a compressor (yet) so I was hoping the new filter and replacing about 2 ft of rubber fuel line would be sufficient, but I'm sure you are right that that would have been better.

I'm still pretty pleased she started relatively easily. Lots of questionable wiring to figure out and remedy but I think but she'll be on the road sooner than expected.

[stesch_c10]

Keep us updated

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by stesch_c10

Keep us updated

Thanks for your interest. I had a friend over who knows a lot about old cars, and when we tried to start it up via pouring gas into the carb directly, he pointed out a few things I did not notice.

1. The fuel pump was not hooked up. Since I have only really ever wrenched on naturally aspirated motorcycles, I have never worked w/ a fuel pump. I assumed the carb would have enough suction to pull fuel in, but apparently that is not the case.

So we hooked up the fuel pump, and turns out the reason it was unhooked was because it was not functional. Ordered one from Rock Auto for about $24 shipped.

2. The carb had a fuel leak out of the bushing. Friend said he didn't think this was something you could really repair on your own very easily and suggested I just get a new carb. So I found a re-manufactured carb on eBay for ~$165 shipped.

I'm waiting for these to arrive, and in the meantime I'm going to try to clean up some of the wiring mess, and get the door locks rekeyed to match the new ignition cylinder I purchased.

Also looking at pulling off the stock rims, cleaning them up, and getting some new rubber. Thinking a 235/75/15 truck tire would be good, or maybe 215 or 225. I don't plan on changing the ride height at all and I'd like to just have something that looks close to stock. I've looked through the big wheel and tire thread but not too many folks have the stock rims and a stock ride height so it's hard for me to get a good idea of what I'd like, size wise.

[Praxiss454]

Also wondering what these various knobs and buttons are for. I have identified a couple of them. I suppose the only way to know for sure is to trace the wires but thought some of you might have ideas.

From left to right, I have
1. a black toggle switch
2. A stock knob (this is the headlight control)
3. A silver push button
4. A stock knob (this is the manual throttle control)
5. Another silver push button (this is the push button starter)
6. Empty hole where the new ignition switch now resides
7. Cigarette lighter

[aerotruk63]

Toggle switches are not supposed to be there.
Starting from the left to right.
Headlight Switch
Windshield wiper ( optional windshield washer )
Choke
Throttle cable ( optional )
Ignition Switch
Lighter (optional )
Some trucks you'll find the optional Hazard Switch where the lighter is supposed to go.

You have the deluxe instrument panel.

[Praxiss454]

Put in a new fuel pump today, now I just need to get the replacement carb in there and she should be ready to run.

Still trying to figure out exactly what engine I have in this thing (e.g. what vehicle is it out of). Found the engine stamp but having trouble making sense of it.

Engine stamp F0904Z01238 - but not sure about the 2
F - Flint, 0904 - Sept 4
What about the rest of Z01238? The only thing I can find is that ZO is from a 307 but this is definitely not a 307.


Casting Number 3850817 would indicate year 62-78 230-250

[Praxiss454]

Got her running today!



https://youtu.be/JoTcq2tR4WA

[MR Cos]

Awesome!

[Praxiss454]

Not sure if this is going to work, but attempting to rename this thread to make it more of a build thread. EDIT - nope that didn't work.

This weekend I cleaned up the rims and painted them white, which as best as I can tell is the original color for my truck (which itself was originally red). They turned out pretty good for rattle can rust-o-leum. Getting some 235/75R15s mounted today.



I don't think I'm going to keep using the old impala hubcaps, as they are all bent up. We'll see.

[Marshy]

Damn, that is in nice shape. Congrats on your buy. A truck in that kind of shape (no rust!) would easily sell for $5-6K.