I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

Thanks for another source! Didn't see that LMC has the rubber retainer (pg.61). I am missing the cancelling cam. But I do know the horn works, but is sure is wimpy. My dad put air horns on his Mercedes, was always messing with the leaking hoses or something.

The Truck Shop has the cancelling cams too. P/n 67-06705 [w/o tilt], also the aftermarket unit needs a spring-loaded contact plunger p/n 67-06506.
...6705 =$10.00, 6506 = $5.00
The Factory cams have the horn contact and spring built in.
The more time spent on a nice day on the internet, the less time working on the truck.
See ya later.

[89AKurt]

Thanks again for the help.

I always think of this song when I work on the truck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHYIGy1dyd8

[89AKurt]

When I added missing bolts on the bumper, looked around. I see two bolts dangling that aren't holding anything, the fan shroud is missing. I have also found three grounding wires that aren't connected, is that a big deal?


Just discovered the C had fallen off. grrr


Need to learn what this engine is.



https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/r...sting-numbers/

Forum link:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353542
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...on+small+block

[KQQL IT]

Looks like a cousin to our 68 "Old blue"

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

When I added missing bolts on the bumper, looked around. I see two bolts dangling that aren't holding anything, the fan shroud is missing. I have also found three grounding wires that aren't connected, is that a big deal?


Just discovered the C had fallen off. grrr


Need to learn what this engine is.



https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/r...sting-numbers/

Forum link:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353542
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...on+small+block

Some partial VIN numbers [So it's a car engine, as trucks had no VINs.]

T = Tonawanda, NY
04 = April
01 = First
CCC = 1971 307 V8 originally mated to a powerglide

Source: www.nastyz28.com

Yeah, connect your loose ground wires. I added extra ground straps from the block to the frame, and to the radiator wall, and from the block to the cab.

[89AKurt]

Getting taillight trim!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...76#post8481176

[89AKurt]

Figures, the battery pooped out yesterday. Truck has been running great since I test drove it. Since I had to put in a new one, fixed the rusted clamp with a perfect size of scrap steel.


Added an eyebolt so I could lock the mountain bike.


Since Lowes had this cheap tool box on sale, and it's smaller than normal, I couldn't resist. Some things I will buy new.


Think I'm the first person to take this off.


First look.



This is why:


Found the spring and retainer plate inside the door.


This is why I like working on this truck! I knew the die cast tabs would break if bent back, so I drilled four holes, and used the universal part called bailing wire. I saw the retainer plate should have been installed the other way to keep the spring off the shaft. I cut cork gasket because I had it, the rubber was shot.



I greased up the shaft and end before installing. Works like new!

[89AKurt]

Today was like watching surgery, and just about as expensive. LOL

Took it to a mechanic who knows what he's doing. I wanted to get fluids checked, and get a basic post buy checkup. Knew the afternoon was going to be interesting when I heard "oh $#it" when the differential oil was drained.


The second "oh ..." was when he pulled this bolt out. He said I was lucky, getting the rest out was the easiest one he ever did.


Looking at the right bearing surface, still good.


Left half shaft was another story.


What was left of the spacers.


This part was still good. I was told these are highway gears.


I'm lucky this is still good.


New spacer bearing.


I have no idea what that tool is!


Checking the gear lash (correct term?).


Buttoning up just before 5:00 on a Friday.


I expected this sort of thing, but it's still like going to the dentist.

[NoStopN]

Well, it is literally like pulling teeth.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by NoStopN

Well, it is literally like pulling teeth.

Glad you got the pun!

Yesterday I made things that didn't cost anything. Materials sourced from scrap piles, a neighbor, just some time. I discovered the front bumper was held on with only two bolts, so found two bolts in my stash plus had ordered two bumper bolts from LMC.

First up, getting a useable mirror on the passenger door. The previous owner got Pep Boys junk mirrors, he admitted the right side was a joke. I've read the mirror threads here, people complaining about the bad repo quality, and not made in the USA. So, I used my dada's WW2 vintage dogtag stamp set to add MADE IN USA. The "S" is trashed, so used the U twice. LOL


Used the best Crapsman materials available, Liquid Nail (left over from remodeling the house), and bailing wire. Cut down the plastic mirror base.


Put the scrap steel in the vice, and hammered the bends with a half jack sledge hammer. Ground the leading end into an aerodynamic shape. LOL Used Pep Boys screws in the same holes that were added previously. Mesquite wedge was also glued in, and aluminum duct tape is over the wound. Cut a cork gasket. I can easily remove this when I get "real" mirrors.


Neighbor installs cable TV around the state, gave me some grounding wires used for making up the boxes. Bolts found in stash.


I made a thingamajig to get the grounding strap onto the engine. Hope these help with the flickering headlights.


This is what I love about working on my truck, can get away with murder. It's not going to be a trailer queen!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Now that you've cracked the pumpkin open, why not inquire about going Posi?

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Now that you've cracked the pumpkin open, why not inquire about going Posi?

I looked into getting Posi for the previous truck, cost and availability is an issue.

Doing easy and cheap stuff at the moment. Even though all the aluminum trim is trashed, front fender arch looks like it drove through a barbed wire fence, I started to polish with #0000 steel wool. Can anyone tell I did only the cab?


I also relocated the choke knob (no pics). Took a joy ride to a scenic setting for glamor shots.





My favorite shot:

[KQQL IT]

Great background

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Great background

Thanks! I just posted in the Let's See Your Truck thread. It sort of bugs me to see everyone taking such boring pictures, in their garage, or on the street.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

Thanks! I just posted in the Let's See Your Truck thread. It sort of bugs me to see everyone taking such boring pictures, in their garage, or on the street.

Here's the old Orange Sunshine out at Reddington Pass...

[89AKurt]

I went beyond the top of the pass only once. The back side of the Rincons is really pretty as I recall.

Started a thread about wiring connectors, specifically for the back-up switch.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=783212

Also thinking about a mat to cover the rust holes in the floor. LOL
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=783171

[89AKurt]

I was looking at the radiator today. It looks like the wrong one, it does sort of fit, but the clamps don't look right. It was loose, so I cut up a thick plastic lid to pad and make it tight. Screwdriver pointing to where it could have sprung a leak, moved the clamp over since there are 3 holes. Neighbor gave me a Ford plastic shroud, not sure if I should bother.

[/url]

['68OrangeSunshine]

I guess a Ford shroud might be better than nothing, but I'd rather use those cones veterinarians put on a dog's neck to keep him from chewing his stitches open.
Radiator clamps come in a couple different styles. The ones for 4-tier cores are different from the thinner ones.
Look at the rubber insulation on the lower brackets. Sometimes they need to be built up or shaved down to get the radiator in the optimum position.

[89AKurt]

That's the spirit.

My truck is now complete , got the C and put on, put a bunch of LocTite on it.


When I wanted to drive it, new battery was completely dead. Friend said the voltage regulator could be bad, after I explained how the headlights were flickering. So I tried to unscrew, discovered the rubber nut things were shot, had to tear off the rubber to get at the embedded nuts! Also found that NAPA had two units, the cheap one made in China weighed about half as much, splurged on the expensive one.


Back to NAPA, those rubber bushings cost over $5 WTF! Ace for the bolts.

[89AKurt]

New task today, figuring out how to remove the aluminum trim, and put on the new taillight trim. I see there is frustration about using new reproduction parts, again, not going there.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...num+trim+clips
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ail+light+trim

['68OrangeSunshine]

I have a NAPA EVR on my '71 Jimmy. It's been on a while, no problems so far. I think it's lifetime guaranteed.
On the '68 Stepside, the EVRs came from Checker Auto, now O'Reilly's, are also warrantied for life, Borg-Warner, and Made in USA, but have a higher failure rate. I keep changing them out.

I also found that rubber grommets on both sides of the radiator bulkhead, around 1/4''-20 carriage bolts work better than replacing the OEM fasteners.

The Stepside is a Chevy, and I have "Lazy Vowel Syndrome" where the Es tend to droop down at 45*. I did steal an E from the '67 Suburban's hood. The GMC letters on the Jimmy's hood are really on there.

[89AKurt]

Well, I have an electrical issue now, will need to get someone who knows something to help me out.

Meanwhile, I did something that a dummy like me can manage, repairing some of the aluminum trim. One of the tailgate pieces was really messed up, so took off and hammered enough to straighten out. I also put on the taillight trim that I got from this forum.

Removed the original trim, I know it's different looking than what I got.


No surprise the clips look 51 years old. Kept the tailgate one in place.


Inventory of reusable clips, I'm lucky.


I hammered the "new" trim enough to straighten, and steel wool cleaned up.


Some of the threads I read, 3M tape seemed to work, so I'm giving it a shot.



Finished, looks good enough for government work.

[89AKurt]

With advice from my neighbor, think I tracked down the short.

First thing, made a tool. Previous owner had the wiper in the headlight hole, headlight below.


The important button to get the headlight knob out.


Headlight switch had the red wire spliced in, but is a dead end.


No idea what this switch supposed to be for, it was mounted in the wiper hole. Yellow wire spliced for this.


I know this is the plug for the heater control, because I removed it. But no idea why the yellow wire was spliced in.


Mystery wire.


Because of the way the wiring harness is made up, I couldn't relocate the wiper switch to the right side of the panel. The wiper switch was one of the first new parts I got, so it's in. Had to Dremel the hole bigger so it would fit.
I really want to repaint the dash, someday.


Since the floor is rusted junk, and I don't plan to weld in new metal, I ground off the gas pedal pegs. I'm thinking of using Eastwood rust repair product, and something like a bed liner over the floor, better than getting cheap rubber junk that will self-destruct in a few years.

Eastwood:
https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html

['68OrangeSunshine]

Looks good.
The 'eyebrow-only' trim pieces are 67-68. The boxed look ones are 69-72. I have the later style on my '71 GMC, but the flapping steel belt from a blown RR tire took out the passenger side one and the right half of the tailgate icing, one hot day on the Mesa Freeway 60.
I took off the woodgrained beltline trim from my '71 Jimmy, and also changed out the side markers from Deluxe [skinny] to Standard. Matches my pickup and IMO presents a brighter signal profile for other drivers at night. I didn't like the trim, and some pieces were falling off. Again, it looks cleaner when parked by the Srepside.
Personally, I will be able to sleep well at night even though I know you have anachronistic taillight trim way out there in Prescott. But I bet there are people on this forum who could not.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Wow, you young CroMagnon toolmakin' whipper-snappers are polluting the Primordial Swamp with your inventions! Us Neanderthals had to make do with the tips of an old pair of needle-nosed pliers for turning switch/knob bezels... [Which are damn hard to chisel out of flint.] My favorite is a pair of SOG Paratool folding multi-pliers which break over above the handles and fold back into the tool. This allows the handles to work at 90* degrees. Can't find this artifact currently.

Lights switch below the Wiper/Washer switch is normal for '67-'68 MY.

It depends on what you're used to for best Driver ergonomics. I was driving my '68 for 20 years before I got the '71 Jimmy. Sometimes I grab the wrong control when not looking. I'm tempted to move the controls around on a major cockpit overhaul.
I'd install a 16'' 3-Spoke 67-68 wheel after I refurbish it and paint it black, move the Wiper switch over to the left side, drop the Lights switch below it. Move the Choke knob up one slot and install a manual Throttle knob below it.
Also upgrade the gauges: Nordskog digital Voltmeter, AutoMeter mechanical Temp Indicator, Vacuum and Oil Pressure gauges, and AutoMeter Tach. I have these gauges, just never installed them.
I would then have a faked '68 looking dash -- two years before GMC debuted the Jimmy.

BTW, the blue paint on your Chevy dash is interesting. To my knowledge Chevy alweays painted the dash panels India Black. GMC had a habit of paintinng them to match interior color. Since my GMC's interior was black anyway, I never knew this, until I found this Forum. Your dash panel may have been cannibalized out of a GMC.
Looking closely, the chrome plating tells me that's '69 and later Dash. 67-68s were painted silver [or Fawn] on the sides, and had the Wiper/Washer above the Lights switch.
So PO changed out the dash, keeping the early switch positions.[If he couldn't read anyway why switch the labels?] Maybe upgraded to the 7-gauge Deluxe panel from the 3-hole Standard panel. Who knows?