72 K30 Build

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Cash3481

Late to this build but I'm in for the rest!

Your right on time Mike just getting started.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Not sure about the K30, but my K20 didn't have enough room to install the HEI, the engine being in the rear frame mounting holes, so i went with a Mallory Unilite, its the size of the stock distributor.

I'm thinking this might be the same deal.

[Maxxd07]

Subscribing to add ideas for another dream of mine!

[7dee2]

I thought there was a really good chance we were going to have to cut out the floor of this cab to clear the transmission, again due to 4x4 engine set back. The body is siting roughly 2” off the top of the K3500 frame rails and that is giving us plenty of clearance for this step even with the low floor. The RV cab we are planning on using is a high hump but I didn’t want to use it for this phase of the mockup because we need to repair the pass thru. It would really be a shame to tweak it trying to lift it by the roof when I have this other cab available. Also another shot of how close the pan is to the front crossmember. I'm kind of wondering if the square body big block pan is shallower than this 72 oil pan?

[7dee2]

So little to no gap in the wheel well and again inner fenders look like they were made for this frame! Tire does sit a little forward in the opening (1.5" or so) but we can live with that. Also not a lot of frame rail exposed under the cab. Trying to build the truck so it looks like it came that way from the factory.

[mjensen]

Wow! Looky there! You're probably going to have that thing on the road before I figure out what I'm going to do with my flywheel and clutch!

[7dee2]

My old school build will be easy compared to your high tech stuff Mike!

[swamp rat]

The part i have been waiting for huh?

[7dee2]

Yep, time to see if we can save the RV cab.

[7dee2]

Patch panels acquired earlier from budnikguy. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...5&postcount=15

[7dee2]

Let’s see how bad this is. Those camper guys had some big stones to do this to a new truck back in the day!! Last pic we had to grind the carriage bolt heads off to get the angle iron frame out.

[7dee2]

They left some of the inner roof skin and just rolled it back.

[Dieselwrencher]

I think I'd just cut it past all the damage and weld you patches in instead of trying to straighten their mess out.

[swamp rat]

^^ x2!

[71blksuper4x4]

You should be fine.....it don't look that bad. Trevor

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I think I'd just cut it past all the damage and weld you patches in instead of trying to straighten their mess out.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

^^ x2!

I agree with you guys! X3

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

You should be fine.....it don't look that bad. Trevor

Good that's what I thought also. If I had your skills Trevor it would already be done. One of my friends told me to slap my patch panels on there with screws and silicone! (He was kidding I think?)

[7dee2]

Another suggestion was using a flange type of repair rather than a butt weld. I thought that was a pretty good idea as it is a little more forgiving when or if you cut your patch short. Might even make the repair stronger with a flange? Picked up this pneumatic punch/flange tool from HF and started to play around with it.

[swamp rat]

I just had an idea but keep in mind i'm not a body man and never used it...

When i was getting ready to do my gas door my uncle also recommended using a flanging tool, but he also recommended using automotive body adhesive like is used in the newer body repair, i don't know anything about it but think its probably a 2 part epoxy?

Maybe there is just too muck area to assemble and squeeze into place tho not sure. Then how to squeeze it all into place? Cleco's perhaps?

http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=...d&w=Cleco&rk=3

Ether way i like the flanging idea and agree i think it will be helpful to keep it ridged.

[DWilbur]

I bought the same flange tool from HF as well. it worked good for punching hole to spot weld parts together. my builder trims the part about 1/2" bigger and steps a flange in it makes for a stronger joint and you don't have the warping issues from but welding sheet metal together.

[patdaly]

I'm not sure how you would hide the flange without feathering a bunch of bondo over it.

If it makes you more comfortable, it probably won't hurt, but you are going to have to but some places no matter what you do, so why not measure carefully, start patch panel slightly big and trim carefully until you have it?

The only real negative on a seamed joint other than the obvious difficulty in hiding it is you generally have an open side where moisture can get to.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I just had an idea but keep in mind i'm not a body man and never used it...

When i was getting ready to do my gas door my uncle also recommended using a flanging tool, but he also recommended using automotive body adhesive like is used in the newer body repair, i don't know anything about it but think its probably a 2 part epoxy?

Maybe there is just too muck area to assemble and squeeze into place tho not sure. Then how to squeeze it all into place? Cleco's perhaps?

http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=...d&w=Cleco&rk=3

Ether way i like the flanging idea and agree i think it will be helpful to keep it ridged.

Years ago we did a 66 Impala SS (pics in the Hub Garage link below) it needed both lower rear quarters. A friend of mine used the glue on method and it turned out great. Never had any trouble with those repairs. Car scored in the mid 90's out of 100 first time out at the local Concours d'Elegance in 2004.

Cleco's are a pretty cool idea and are kinder than screws I would own a bunch if I did this kind of work for a living. We have always used screws, magnets and various welding clamps. HF sells these intergrip panel clamps also and they have worked well. http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-pa...-set-of-4.html

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I bought the same flange tool from HF as well. it worked good for punching hole to spot weld parts together. my builder trims the part about 1/2" bigger and steps a flange in it makes for a stronger joint and you don't have the warping issues from but welding sheet metal together.

I agree 100%!

Originally Posted by patdaly

I'm not sure how you would hide the flange without feathering a bunch of bondo over it.

If it makes you more comfortable, it probably won't hurt, but you are going to have to but some places no matter what you do, so why not measure carefully, start patch panel slightly big and trim carefully until you have it?

The only real negative on a seamed joint other than the obvious difficulty in hiding it is you generally have an open side where moisture can get to.

I wish this tool would make a deeper flange but I'm surprised at how close to flush it is. A little butt welding but no biggie, I think we can hide most of the repairs.

[7dee2]

Recently we used all butt welds on my ½ ton project and I’m really pleased with the results (we were able to hide all the many cab repairs that project required, lots of time invested but worth it to me) this truck is planned to be the looker of the current three. My K30 project is being built for another purpose more of a working, camping, parts hauling, fun type truck. Built with extra/saved parts to help keep the ½ ton cherry and to replace my sweet C30 flatbed with a heavier duty BB 4x4 version!

Decision is made we are moving forward with the flange type repair for this project. I believe it is going to make a stronger repair. The flanges will be internally hidden inside the inner and outer roof skin for the upper repair. The lower will also be hidden internally between the inner and outer back panel. The nice thing is the only place the flange repair will show is behind the seat/gas tank and this area will have a gas tank, sub box or carpet haven’t gotten that far yet. I know the misses wants a bench seat for sure, dang I already have an extra set of blazer bucket seat frames and a console we bought from board member bluek5 that I was going to use. One more thing the exterior will be hidden by the headache rack from the flatbed so it will mostly hide any body work. To help deal with rust issues we will use a weld thru primer between the flanges and a coating of rust converter/encapsulator in the internal cavity between skins.

Many years ago I drove a rollback truck hauling forklifts around the area in an old C60 that had had the back of the cab bashed in. It had been poorly repaired and used to leak, vibrate and rattle as I went about my job driving me nuts. That is not going to happen to this truck and I’ll make it look right because I’m a bit of a fuss bucket when it comes to my projects.

[7dee2]

So rolled the inner roof back into place somewhat and really lucked out that it is far enough below the inner seam that there is something to work with.

[7dee2]

Separated the roof skin patch panels they are going to need some work, exterior panel is the worst of the two. They have far more surface rust starting than the cab they are going into. It's interesting how it didn't rust as much behind the dome light.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking good sir! I hope you and your family have a very Merry Christmas too!

[7dee2]

Thanks Big D! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you sir!