69 K10 From the Field

[landarts]

For the weekend I worked on getting all the metal trimmed and ready for tacking in on the rust repair on the cab. Below are pictures of how I tackled the firewall stress cracks where the parking brake mounts. Top and bottom mount holes were both cracked and need repair before I can scuff and repaint the firewall before the engine goes in.

Pict 1 - Shows the damage and after I used a grinder to cleanup area around the cracks. Originally thought I would just weld up the cracks but after cleaning it up I thought it would be better to cut out and replace the metal. the black marker marks are so I can line up the holes properly after I get new metal back in place.

Pict 2 - Shows where I cut out the metal and also shows how I taped card stock to the inside and outlined with a pencil.

Pict 3 - Shows the use of a spray adhesive to stick the template to the metal to be cut and the other is the tool of choice, a 4.5" grinder with a Lenox metal cutting blade. Clamped down with a large vise grip C clamp on the back of the truck frame with a 2x6 for support.

Pict 4 - Chows the metal cutout and fit to hole. I did have to do a little bit more grinding to fine tune it and make sure the fit was good for the welds. Also shows it tacked in tacking my time to jump around from corner to corner so it does not get heated up to much in one location.

I will follow up with the rest of the pictures of the welds finished and then ground down. Also the metal prepped for finishing and drilled for the parking brake to be remounted.

Will also have a few shots of the other areas on the cab like the rocker, kick panel and the passenger cowl repair. that will do it for the cab then onto minor door repair and then the replacement of the middle section of bed floor.

[Ol Blue K20]

Nice work!

[landarts]

Here are a few follow up pictures from the rust repair. This is after I ground down with flap disc on angle grinder, re-welded any small holes missed while welding. Flap disc touch up again then smoothed out with D.A. sander. I will next drill out hole locations from transfered sharpie marks and body work area.

Also decided to put together a cab lift with some leftover materials I had in the garage. Jacked it up and moved the cab to the back of the frame so I could get access to prep the frame, transmission and transfer case for paint. Used the air needle scaler I bought from H.F. to do the dirty work. It gets the big stuff off then I will go to the oven cleaner and power washer to get it closer so I can prep and paint.

[72ironmike]

Deep digging & dirty detail work ! Nice, Jim.

[Ol Blue K20]

Looking good!

[landarts]

Working on cab rust repair this weekend on the passenger side cowl. This area had rust on the inside of the kick panel, outside of cowl and the bottom pan of the cowl was like Swiss cheese. Worked the outside of cowl first, two rounds of welding and grinding. Then moved to the bottom of the cowl pan. Cutting back until I got to good metal that was solid again. Made a template out of card stock then cut it out and started to make all the needed bends to make it fit properly. Moved on to treating the inside with brush on Rust Reformer while I had the bottom out. Then 2 coats of Rusty Metal Primer brush on version.

While primer was drying I had two areas on the back of the cab that were small dents from the top of the bed hitting the cab. The one on the passenger side had a small amount of filler so I removed it, about a 2" square area. After I removed the filler I noticed 3 small hole where they used a slide dent puller. So I had bought a new tool a couple of months ago and this would be the time to try it out. Pulled out the stud welder and put a stud in the middle of the dent and used the new StudLever to pull the dent forward. I used it on both sides and I really like the control you have with it verses the slide hammer. Once I was done with that I used the DA to feather back the paint in the area for filler to finish it off. I noticed in the layers of paint these two areas were spot repaired. I could tell because of the layer of gray primer showing through, as I went further out all primed areas were the traditional red oxide.

After welding up the bottom of the cowl pan I will move onto the bottom of the doors I need to address. I will work on the doors while waiting waiting for filler or primers to cure on the cab.

[landarts]

Spent the morning cleaning up the garage to get the room needed to get moving on this build. Pushed the bed out into the driveway on the bed cart to tear it down and get it stored away in the side yard for later. This is the third bed I have completely tore down. The first one took about 6 hours. Second one took about 3 to 4 hours where I tried to break off the bolts using my impact driver, then drilling out the ones that would spin from the top. This time I went around and tried to break all off with impact driver and the ones that were spinning I tried a different method that worked really well and fast. I used a small chisel and screw driver driven under both sides of the bolt head to put pressure on it. This time I was able to complete the tear down in about 2 hours, that included moving items to side yard and cleaning up the driveway and tools.

Here is a picture of the method i used on the bolt heads that were spinning. After I just used a hammer and dolly to put the metal back and flatten it out.

[rgunlock]

Looks like a nice job on the repairs. I've got the same StudLever and it does a great job as long as you use enough studs that you aren't trying to pull too hard on any given stud (slips off the stud). Really good control though.

[landarts]

The first couple I used the smaller diameter studs and they were slipping a bit. Then I moved to the larger ones that I had in the kit and no slippage so far. At some point I would like to buy the tab-it kit and try doing a few with the glue on pads from a PDR kit.

[landarts]

After getting the garage cleaned up and organized on Wednesday I was going to take advantage of the extra space to get the motor off of the dolly and onto the motor stand to finish cleaning and getting ready for the proper color. The story on the motor is when I bought the two truck deal he also had the motor his dad had rebuilt before he passed away. I asked why is it green and he explained that his dad completed the rebuild and did not want to drive to town which is about twenty miles to get the right color of paint. He had some John Deere Green and thought it was good enough for the C60 it was going to go back into.

Anyways I removed the manifold, distributor, fuel pump and alternator so I could proceed to clean it up with a orange foaming degreaser I use and then scuff it up with a few Scotch brite pads to get some bite on the paint. I will wipe down with wzx and grease remover and prime first then spray Chevy Orange with ceramic motor paint.

I was looking at the script valve cover and noticed it had a few dings and dents so I began working the metal to get it best I could. The one in the picture was probably the worst. I used a hammer, dolly, a few different shaped hardwood sticks, a carriage bolt that had a top on it that had the same curvature and the last item I used was a large turnbuckle bolt. By using a few different items I was able to get it looking real good. I hit it a few times with the DA to see where the lows and high were and worked from there.

So know I will be working the cab and the motor together. I like to have at least two items going on at the same time so if I get tired or need a change of pace I flip over to the other item. Sometimes it works out real good waiting on things to cure or dry while I can move over to the other item and keep going forward.

[landarts]

Got the main part of the engine primed and painted after a couple of evenings of prepping. I used the following products to prepare for primer and paint.

• Purple Power citrus cleaner
• Scotch Brite pads
• putty knife
• gasket scraper
• wire brushes
• Nylox brush attachment for drill
• wax and grease remover
• green 3m tape
• dolly and hammer with other items to remove dents from valve cover
• Duplicolor engine primer
• Duplicolor ceramic engine paint

Now I am working on all the items that were removed like brackets, exhaust/intake manifold, harmonic balancer and few other smalls. After I disassembled the intake/exhaust manifold to paint the intake Chevy Orange and the exhaust side Cast Iron I noticed a hidden crack in the exhaust side. Lucky that I had another manifold to pull apart and I got lucky no cracks on this one.

While I am working on the rest of the small items that need painting I made a list and ordered a few items that I will need to button up the engine and get it ready for install. I ordered a few new gaskets, plug wires, distributor cap, oil filler cap, thermostat, harmonic balancer, Pertronix electronic ignition and Flame Thrower coil. There are a few other items that I have on the shelf that should work like a fan pulley, fan, and carburetor from one of my inline 250 motors.

As I am finishing up the motor items I will be prepping and painting the front half of the frame to get it ready for the 292 crossmember and motor install.

[landarts]

Have been working on a few items to get back toward the build. Hunting down a few more items I need for the motor to make it complete is just about final. I moved the cab to the back of the frame so I could start cleanup and prep frame for paint. I needed a place to put the cab and wanted to be able to work on the frame and drive train at the same time. The old cart I built for the bed and cab has seen better days and is being used for another bed right know. So I always wanted to build one of the Tilt -N-Flip carts that LFD designed a few years back. I put a note up on the forum to see if anyone was still selling them and a forum member Jason Banks post a few images and plans to one he had built. ( link to thread here )

After viewing his pictures and someone sent me a link on how to get in touch with Kevin to order plans, the gears started to turn. I was able to purchase plans from Kevin and ideas from what Jason had put together and design up my own version of a Tip and Flip cart. I will use the cart to work on the cab and also have another set of extensions to add to the other end to put a bed on if needed. When it is all finished I will make the support mounts sleeved with 1.75 square tubing and adjustable with holes for a retained clevis so I can raise and lower or add different supports for different items if needed like to hold doors, fenders or a bedside for painting. Hope to finish up this weekend so I can move the cab onto the cart and get it ready for paint by the end of the month.

Also I picked up a really nice 1972 K20 which was all original except for the small block 400 motor in it. So spent some time removing the motor and a few items so I can put it into storage for a later build.

Pict 1 This is the old wooden cart that I built several years ago
Pict 2 Plans that I drew up in Sketchup for measurements and concept
Pict 3 This is the base - cardboard templates for the supports to do the layout for cab bolts
Pict 4 Here is the tilt portion being tested and measured with angle finder - right on 45 degrees
Pict 5 Here is the K20 as I was dragging it home from Rigby Idaho

[landarts]

here is another picture of progress on the cart. Hope to wrap up here in the next evening or so. Then it will be time for testing it out and back onto the build.

[landarts]

Finally got some time to work on an item for the project. I bought this side mount air cleaner for a 292 from a board member a few months ago. It was complete but had a few dings and dents in the snorkel portion so I attempted to hammer and dolly it out the best I could to make it presentable. I used a few different items I had laying around the shop as dollies as well as a flat doll I had.

After it was done I brushed on some metal etch on the outside to strip all the rust and then finished it by smoothing things out with a DA. Then I like to use the brush on version of Rustoleum rusty metal primer. I will next block sand and knock it down then etching primer and finally single stage satin black for the final paint.

[landarts]

Finally got a chance to mount the cab on the new cart. I really like the sitting height on the cart it allows me to do work all around the cab without having to bend over. The lower items like rockers makes it comfortable to sit in chair while working those areas. I always need to take thing like that into consideration with three ruptured disc in back. Being comfortable while working on these projects is an important factor in my book.

[72 tigger]

Nice job on the cart

[Ol Blue K20]

That cart looks good.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

That cart looks good.

Thanks I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Nice job on the cart

Thanks!, I think it will be getting a good work out I have a K20 and three k10 that will get tested out on this after this build is done.

[landarts]

Got some work done on the firewall, one last small piece of rust repair I found when working on the vent box. Mudded up a few areas to get it looking good and ready for single stage paint on firewall. Like going with single stage under the hood so that if something gets scratched up or nicked during assembly it will be an easy fix.

Also scored a really nice set of Spicer hubs on Marketplace for $100 dollars. These will go on the K20 build coming up.

[landarts]

Little more done on the problem areas on the firewall. Just about ready for surface primer. The firewall had four locations that needed attention. Two of them were small patches of rust toward the top where leaves and debris build up created the issue. The other was in the passenger kick panel vent bottom housing. The last was the area where the parking brake attaches to the firewall. Both bolt holes were basically ripped and close to completely breaking off. On this I decided to take out a larger portion and replace the metal with new 20 gauge. I pre-marked the bolt holes on the firewall further out than where the cuts were to be made so I could get It lined up in the right spot. After I did all the repairs and drilled the new holes it fit perfect first try.

There was also a few areas on the firewall that had big runs in the paint from factor. I was able to scrape those down with a new razor blade and then feather out with a DA. Now that that part is out of the way I will be moving onto the backside of the cab for body work, then remove the front and back glass and get those areas ready for paint. The rest of the cab should go pretty fast since the rust areas have been addressed and there are only a few dings here and there to take care of.

I also included a picture of the door striker hardware. The rusted set is the passenger side and the drivers side after soaking over night in Evaporust.

Pict 1 - shows the issue with parking brake mount holes
Pict 2 - shows the repair
Pict 3 - shows the other side of firewall repairs
Pict 4 - overall shot
Pict 5 - shows the difference of soaking door striker in Evaporust over night

[best view]

No updates

[DWilbur]

Originally Posted by landarts

Little more done on the problem areas on the firewall. Just about ready for surface primer. The firewall had four locations that needed attention. Two of them were small patches of rust toward the top where leaves and debris build up created the issue. The other was in the passenger kick panel vent bottom housing. The last was the area where the parking brake attaches to the firewall. Both bolt holes were basically ripped and close to completely breaking off. On this I decided to take out a larger portion and replace the metal with new 20 gauge. I pre-marked the bolt holes on the firewall further out than where the cuts were to be made so I could get It lined up in the right spot. After I did all the repairs and drilled the new holes it fit perfect first try.

There was also a few areas on the firewall that had big runs in the paint from factor. I was able to scrape those down with a new razor blade and then feather out with a DA. Now that that part is out of the way I will be moving onto the backside of the cab for body work, then remove the front and back glass and get those areas ready for paint. The rest of the cab should go pretty fast since the rust areas have been addressed and there are only a few dings here and there to take care of.

I also included a picture of the door striker hardware. The rusted set is the passenger side and the drivers side after soaking over night in Evaporust.

Pict 1 - shows the issue with parking brake mount holes
Pict 2 - shows the repair
Pict 3 - shows the other side of firewall repairs
Pict 4 - overall shot
Pict 5 - shows the difference of soaking door striker in Evaporust over night

I'm in the process of putting my truck back together and the pick of the door parts shows me what the shims are for. now I can work on my door locks.

[landarts]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I'm in the process of putting my truck back together and the pick of the door parts shows me what the shims are for. now I can work on my door locks.

That's awesome, if you need any other pictures let me know, I have them on the table and I have them installed a few trucks at my house.

[landarts]

Finished up the final round of filler work on the front eyebrow area of the fender. Used Rage Extreme as main filler, Upol Gold for glaze and SEM black high build for primer. Not sure how much more repairs I will do on the fender since my goal was to replace the bad fender with one that could allow for proper restoration or just a driver . Most of the rest of the items on the fender are small dings or scratches just like the rest of the truck. I will need to weld shut the four holes that were for the C20 badge and finish that area then scuff and get the fender into white primer before I mount it.

One of the pictures shows how much filler dust was sanded off using Durablock sanding blocks of various sizes. It is amazing how much work it takes to get that area looking right again.

[harrisoncole4]

My 69 blazer is very similar to your truck in colour scheme. 507 light blue with the 606 blue interior. My interior was in really rough shape when I got so it's nice that your beginning photos show what they'll look like at the end. Only difference with mine seems to be that it came with medium blue visors not dark blue. Will you be keeping the blue interior on yours?