Cecil the 1953 5 window / S-10 / 5.7 TPI

[Lokin4AReason]

how are you making the rusting process, if i may ask ....

[oldman3]

Ready to see the transformation...Jim

[oossuuu754]

Chris has started working on Cecil this weekend. He stripped the S-10 donor on Friday.

[oossuuu754]

Saturday he was able to finish the stripping the S-10 frame and then power washed it. He has ordered some the chassis parts to get this thing laying low. He thinks we can get it about 5 inches off the ground. Stay tuned.

[oldman3]

Had wondered why we hadn't seen anything on this build, from you or Chris. Glad it is started and look forward to more updates...Jim

[skymangs]

Sorry all, got a little farther behind on the '54 than planned. I'm ready to get cranking on Cecil as soon as the Thanksgiving weekend is over. I've ordered a TON of parts already, I'm going to change up how I do this one a bit, and do the suspension work before body fitment. That way I can build it around those monstrous tires. I am also starting out by cutting an inch out of my cab mounts, I'll tack them together, and fit the body, that way it's easy to take more out if I need to.

The rear tires measure 32.25" tall... it's going to be a chore to get it low!

Also, the '54 has it's own thread now. Rico F. is the title.

[skymangs]

I just ordered the new gauge from Speedhut. Shawn is graciously allowing me to use his truck as a test bed for some new Idea's I've been kicking around. I plan on replacing the original speedometer head with the new Speedhut electronic speedo. I will re-use the original faceplate, and have my graphics shop custom make me a vinyl decal to replicate the original look of the speedometer, but match the Mph marks of the Speedhut gauge. The new vinyl decal will go to 90mph, as the original did. The new speedo will have integrated bright and signal indicators as well.

If this works out as well as I expect, it will be my new standard for LS swaps.

[oossuuu754]

Went by today to see Chris and see how Cecil was progressing. It was nice to get my gloves a little dirty and help him test fit the cab on the S-10 chassis. Chris has some ideas to get him to an overall goal of 7 inches off the ground. Stay tuned.

[steve aleve]

I'm definitely tuned in. This thing is going to be nice!!! I do have a couple questions. First off I think it was mentioned that the target height was going to be 5" above the ground. Why did this change to 7". Secondly what would be the lowest you would recommend for a static drive height 5"? 4"? etc? (when I say height I am referring to running board above the ground) is this what you are referring to also? Lastly there was mention of having to "get creative" to get it this low. What are the obstacles when shooting for this height? Gas tank? tunneling? radiator? raised bed floor? any others?

[oossuuu754]

Originally Posted by steve aleve

I'm definitely tuned in. This thing is going to be nice!!! I do have a couple questions. First off I think it was mentioned that the target height was going to be 5" above the ground. Why did this change to 7". Secondly what would be the lowest you would recommend for a static drive height 5"? 4"? etc? (when I say height I am referring to running board above the ground) is this what you are referring to also? Lastly there was mention of having to "get creative" to get it this low. What are the obstacles when shooting for this height? Gas tank? tunneling? radiator? raised bed floor? any others?

Not sure if Chris will be able to chime in on what the lowest he would recommend for a static drive but I know that his Son's truck is only about 4 inches. Main reason we are having to change our goals is because of the massive tires I am running. With the 18x8s and 20x10s I have 29 and 31 inches of tires and wheels. Gas tank will be an issue if we go much lower. Chris is going to get the drop spindles in this week and then we have decided to go with a drop in the rear In addition to the 3 or 4 inch blocks. Looks like we will have to raise the bed a 2 or so inches but I don't want the bed much higher as I still want it look like a bed and not a wooden tonneau cover.

[skymangs]

Shawn didn't mention that I cut an additional inch out of the cab mounts this morning. That makes the forward stands just over 2" off the frame. Any closer we will run into trans and fuel tank clearance issues. I'm going to order a set of drop springs for the rear to suck it down some more. May go with 1" drop springs up front as well. I'm still shooting for 5", but I dont want to kill the ride just to get it low.

Lowest I would recommend would be 4.5" clearance at the front edge of the running board. Any lower, you will start to have speed bump problems.

[steve aleve]

Thank you guys for the responses. I appreciate it. 4.5 it is!!! lol. I'm anxious to see how this thing turns out! For mine, I have 3" blocks for the rear and 2" spindles up front. I also have some drop leafs and drop springs for the front that I wasn't sure if I was going to use for that same reason. I don't want it to ride poorly.

[skymangs]

Obstacles are bed height, pinion angle, trans clearance, steering shaft geometry, and ride quality. I was considering "Z'ing" the back half, but it would have raised his bed height too much. As it stands, once the drop springs go in the rear, the frame will need to be "C" notched.

[skymangs]

Remember Steve that your overall tire height really alters your ride height. PM me for my number if you would like the formula for 4.5" ride height.

[oldman3]

Chris, I see you have the shop full already. What's the deal with the AD with the I-ROC wheels in the rear. Is that a plymouth sedan, your also working on???....Jim

[skymangs]

The AD belongs to my buddy Chris. He's doing all the work, just using my shop, tools, power, and heat... Yup, He's a user! Lol

The other one is a 48 Plymouth Deluxe with a Caddy 472 and some hoakie work on the Camaro stub (lots of flex)... Guess what I'll be fixing?

[oossuuu754]

Chris aka SKYMANGS has been busy this week so I am going to post verbatim what he has said straight of his facebook page

I will note his comments with indentations and quote marks. I want to make sure and give him all the credit for this wonderful work he is doing on Cecil

"Mocking up the driveline. Always a challenge to get it perfectly centered, and level. Tew motor mounts are bolted on, snd I use 1/2" ID 11ga. Tube and 1/2" bolts to mount it to the frame."

[oossuuu754]

SKYMANGS:

"Once I'm happy with the placement, templates are made for the uprights. They are cut from 3/16" plate and tacked I n place. Then the driveline is yanked to seam them in."

[oossuuu754]

Chris:

"Here's the driveline in position with the motor mounts all seemed in. I use a jackstand to keep th he tailgate in place, until I can get the trans cross member finished."

[oossuuu754]

SKYMANGS:

"This is how I do the cross member. First I cut the passenger side, then I trim the driver's side to clear the frame rail. I weld 1.25 11ga. Boxed to create a new shelf. Then I trim the passenger side piece I cut off to fit and re-weld it together."

[T Hilde]

What did the motor come out of? I have the same exhaust manifolds and trying to find a Y pipe.

[oossuuu754]

Originally Posted by T Hilde

What did the motor come out of? I have the same exhaust manifolds and trying to find a Y pipe.

This motor is our of 5.7L 87 IROC Z28

[oossuuu754]

SKYMANGS:

"Brake pedal assembly modified and installed. Booster/master located and mocked up. Still no drop spindles, were supposed to be delivered today."

[oossuuu754]

SKYMANGS

New steering column, I build all my own brackets. This is the upper bracket being made.

[oossuuu754]

SKYMANGS:

Seat base coming out. Last shot is the drivers floor pan. Rust goes all the way under the seat base. I'll be picking up a new pan later this week.