72 C10 for my 25th wedding anniversary

[sfont66]

Rear tires arrived this week, wheels are being made still, should arrive in a couple weeks. I went with weld racing 15x12 pro stars. Kind of old school/vintage wheels, but i like the look on these trucks. Weld doesn’t make a pro star that will fit the front, in the 5x5 bolt pattern. So I will need to order them in a 5x4.75 and have a set of rotors drilled. If I can’t find a local shop, I may have moser engineering do it.
I hope to finish the A/F R gauge install today.
More to come...

[cornerstone]

My pants got a little tighter looking at those meats.....

[sfont66]

Finally had tires mounted on new wheels, first pic is of the previous rear tire,(275 60 15) and replacement is 29 15 15
Here are a few more pics. A lot of rain yesterday, so could not get any pics outdoors.
Received some body panels for the fall/winter project details and pics to come...

[sfont66]

Started collecting parts for a winter/spring project. A few weeks ago I received 2 new 6’ box sides, a roof skin, and 2 sport mirrors. They were ordered through Kevin Gramentz @ Bowtie truck stop in Spring field MN. Kevin did not want to risk any damage to the sheet metal, or have to build a crate to ship via truck, so he personally delivered my parts, he drove 3 hours 1 way on a Friday evening to drop off parts! After unloading we talked about trucks and projects, stuff he and customers had going, he even has a current customer building blazers out of all new sheet metal, the pics were amazing! Great guy, great service.

[sfont66]

Just thought I should add a few thoughts about the box sides...
The last set of box sides I purchased 4 years ago were from AMD. This set is from Woodall. They are much straighter, less wavy, and the stake pockets are spot welded like the originals. The AMD panels are mig welded in the area of the stake pockets. Not sure who makes sheet metal for Woodall but first impressions are they are better than tri plus/key parts/AMD. Not sure about the fitment, that remains to be seen....

[curtisb]

cant wait to see the roof repair, i may have to do that later on also

[sfont66]

Update: the current engine in the truck sounds like it has a bad rod bearing, not Good timing! The engine lived a hard life under my right foot, so not completely unexpected, but I still had hoped to get 1 more year out of it. So now I will have to contemplate, do I order a new short block or try to put together the $ for a 6.2ls and 6 speed. If I decided to go with Ls swap I almost certainly would not have the truck back together for next July and the Street machine Nationals, (haven’t been in 2 years now, hate to miss again) or any other event, much less any cruises. Much to consider. Still plan on cutting the truck this winter going from long to short . I will try to post a video of the engine noise if I can.
Ok so not sure how to post video

[jimbosprint]

Originally Posted by sfont66

Update: the current engine in the truck sounds like it has a bad rod bearing, not Good timing! The engine lived a hard life under my right foot, so not completely unexpected, but I still had hoped to get 1 more year out of it. So now I will have to contemplate, do I order a new short block or try to put together the $ for a 6.2ls and 6 speed. If I decided to go with Ls swap I almost certainly would not have the truck back together for next July and the Street machine Nationals, (haven’t been in 2 years now, hate to miss again) or any other event, much less any cruises. Much to consider. Still plan on cutting the truck this winter going from long to short . I will try to post a video of the engine noise if I can.
Ok so not sure how to post video

Sorry to hear about the engine trouble. I couldn't figure out video either, so I upload to YouTube and post a link.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by curtisb

cant wait to see the roof repair, i may have to do that later on also

Sorry I missed your post, and thanks for the interest. My plan was to start with the long to short bed conversion, and if I still had time before good spring driving weather, tackle the roof repair. But now with my engine troubles, I may be down for longer than I had planned. Not all bad, it may force me to work on the roof sooner rather than later.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by jimbosprint

Sorry to hear about the engine trouble. I couldn't figure out video either, so I upload to YouTube and post a link.

Thanks, and thanks for the info, I couldn’t find any information on how to post video. And nothing for I pad either. I may have to try YouTube, like you suggest. Many times it would be easier to post a video of a problem, rather than trying to explain in words

[sfont66]

Update.
Finally after 4 years, I have concrete in the shop. I could have had it done years ago, but we are trying to pay cash as we go, by the time we decided to have it done back in September every contractor was busy. One had promised to fit us in on a rain day, and quoted us what we figured was a fair price. After contacting him many times, and hearing many excuses over a period of several months, he promised to show up the first week of January. When he still did not show,we decided to go with another contractor, that had previously been too busy. The price was more, but he had fiber added to the 4500# mix . He also had additional cost involved with winter heat for the aggregate and hot water in the mix. The building had been heated since October, so he was able to have his crew pour the slab last Wednesday January 20th 2021.
I had prepped the slab for a 2 post lift, adding rebar and mesh and large footing pads. The concrete under the areas where the posts will be are 12”thick, the remaining slab is 4.5”
Very soon I will be able to work on the truck again, this winter/spring will be a whole lot more comfortable in the shop.

[sfont66]

One more,
I have video of the pour and finish, but not many photos...

[MDPotter]

I bet it feels good to have a slab to work on! And nice job planning for the lift.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

I bet it feels good to have a slab to work on! And nice job planning for the lift.

Thanks
It should really make working on projects easier! It’s the first time since 1994 that I will have a heated building to work in, in the cold winter months. Here in Minnesota it’s cold for 5 months out of the year.

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by sfont66

Thanks
It should really make working on projects easier! It’s the first time since 1994 that I will have a heated building to work in, in the cold winter months. Here in Minnesota it’s cold for 5 months out of the year.

That just sounds awful. It's only cold here for about 3 months. I don't know about you, but I have a hard time being motivated to work on anything in the cold.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

That just sounds awful. It's only cold here for about 3 months. I don't know about you, but I have a hard time being motivated to work on anything in the cold.

I agree, the older I get the less I tolerate being cold or working in the cold weather. For 15 years I was a framing carpenter ,and we would work year round in all types of weather, framing homes, installing soffit and facia and siding etc...Being younger then, I would get used to the cold, but always hated the wind!

[sfont66]

Update.
It’s above average temps this week, today it was 43 degrees,comfortable enough to work in the unheated portion of the shop. I had the day off work, and took the opportunity to remove the front clip as one piece, with the engine crane.
I then removed the box as well. Within the next week I hope to pull the damaged engine,along with the transmission, and then remove the cab. At that point I will move the frame into the heated part of the shop and begin to section the frame, converting it from Lwb to Swb.
I picked up a 2006 5.3 all aluminum l33 a couple of weeks ago, I had wanted to go with a Ls3, but they just haven’t come down in price enough yet, and I can’t justify the expense quite yet. I am new to a Ls swap, so any tips or advice is welcome. Plans for now are to install a Tko 5 speed or if budget allows, a 6 speed T56 magnum. More to come....

[MDPotter]

The L33 is a good engine! I have lots of advice I could impart on you, but what comes to mind right now is work to that engine before you drop it in. I don't know how many miles are on it, but I would recommend replacing a lot of parts while it's on the stand and easy to work on. I did some of these to my LQ9, but not all of it and am regretting it now:
-Rear main seal - this is what I believe is leaking on my truck now and I don't know how to replace it without pulling the engine.
-Front timing cover gasket & crank seal
-Spark plugs and wires
-Water pump
-Idler and tensioner pulleys
-Power steering pump
-Intake gasket
-Knock sensors and harness (seal the perimeter of the rubber boots with RTV)
-Oil pickup tube o-ring and oil pan gasket. My dad has a 2006 Sierra with the L33 and we replaced this a couple months ago as the oil pressure was pretty low and you could hear the lifters on startup. Not too bad up on a lift, but much easier on an engine stand.

Other things to consider: electric fans, hydroboost (awesome upgrade and not expensive if you go the junkyard route), Vintage Air or keep the factory heat, what route you want to go for the LS wiring harness/computer, any engine upgrades (cam and springs is easy and gets you more power and lopey idle), headers or manifolds (recommend manifolds), what engine mounts to use, what fuel tank/system to use, etc.

I don't want to clog up your thread here, but I'm happy to give you any info on my builds.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

The L33 is a good engine! I have lots of advice I could impart on you, but what comes to mind right now is work to that engine before you drop it in. I don't know how many miles are on it, but I would recommend replacing a lot of parts while it's on the stand and easy to work on. I did some of these to my LQ9, but not all of it and am regretting it now:
-Rear main seal - this is what I believe is leaking on my truck now and I don't know how to replace it without pulling the engine.
-Front timing cover gasket & crank seal
-Spark plugs and wires
-Water pump
-Idler and tensioner pulleys
-Power steering pump
-Intake gasket
-Knock sensors and harness (seal the perimeter of the rubber boots with RTV)
-Oil pickup tube o-ring and oil pan gasket. My dad has a 2006 Sierra with the L33 and we replaced this a couple months ago as the oil pressure was pretty low and you could hear the lifters on startup. Not too bad up on a lift, but much easier on an engine stand.

Other things to consider: electric fans, hydroboost (awesome upgrade and not expensive if you go the junkyard route), Vintage Air or keep the factory heat, what route you want to go for the LS wiring harness/computer, any engine upgrades (cam and springs is easy and gets you more power and lopey idle), headers or manifolds (recommend manifolds), what engine mounts to use, what fuel tank/system to use, etc.

I don't want to clog up your thread here, but I'm happy to give you any info on my builds.

Thanks for the reply, and info
The engine has over 100,000 , so I will take your advice and do most of those maintenance items.
No problem clogging up the thread, any info is appreciated.
It’s still early in this project as far as the LS is concerned, and I haven’t done much research, I will review your build threads, as I have many questions
I don’t like wiring very much, but feel I could modify a stock harness, but I really would like to hide as much wiring as possible, and the Ecu. Also how is the original cab wiring integrated into the Ls engine harness. Many questions in the weeks ahead.
This truck is radio and heater delete, so lots of room behind the dashboard to hide Ecu?
I like the idea of Hydro boost and electric fans.
What motor mounts are best and location.
I will most likely install a new cam and springs. And am considering a different intake and larger injectors, and possibly porting and milling the heads.
I have some time to gather parts, and more info as I plan on tackling the frame work first, then engine and transmission, wiring etc... then the box.
Thanks again for any and all info

[MDPotter]

I don’t like wiring very much, but feel I could modify a stock harness, but I really would like to hide as much wiring as possible, and the Ecu. Also how is the original cab wiring integrated into the Ls engine harness. Many questions in the weeks ahead. Typically, the LS harness stands on its own. What we have done on our swaps is use the accessory circuits in the American Autowire Classic Update harness to power the LS harness. We have reworked the stock LS harness on both swaps. It takes time and patience but is not complicated as Brendan at LT1swap.com has provided so much information. Or, you can get an aftermarket harness that is setup for swaps already which comes with a standalone fuse block and connect straight to the battery. Third option is to buy the Holley Terminator X or X Max (X controls engine only, X Max controls engine and trans) which is a standalone harness and a PCM that learns on its own. If you want to modify the harness and mess with tuning, you can rework the factory harness yourself and get a mail order tune or take it to a shop or do the tuning yourself with HPTuners. If you don't want to do any of that and don't mind spending more, I would go with the Holley Terminator system. That's what we're using for the next swap which will be a turbo setup.
This truck is radio and heater delete, so lots of room behind the dashboard to hide Ecu? I have a center console in my truck and hid the PCM in there, but lots of guys hide it in the dash.
I like the idea of Hydro boost and electric fans. There are a few threads out there on this and I have some info in my 68 thread. Hydroboost gives you strong brakes independent of the vacuum your engine is providing and saves room in the engine bay. You don't need a high dollar radiator to keep it cool. The fans are more important - get good fans from SPAL.
What motor mounts are best and location. I used the stock perches, stock replacement mounts, and LS adapter plates. Dirty Dingo plates are nice because they slide for adjustability. My plates are adjustable in that they have 3 different sets of holes.

[sfont66]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

I don’t like wiring very much, but feel I could modify a stock harness, but I really would like to hide as much wiring as possible, and the Ecu. Also how is the original cab wiring integrated into the Ls engine harness. Many questions in the weeks ahead. Typically, the LS harness stands on its own. What we have done on our swaps is use the accessory circuits in the American Autowire Classic Update harness to power the LS harness. We have reworked the stock LS harness on both swaps. It takes time and patience but is not complicated as Brendan at LT1swap.com has provided so much information. Or, you can get an aftermarket harness that is setup for swaps already which comes with a standalone fuse block and connect straight to the battery. Third option is to buy the Holley Terminator X or X Max (X controls engine only, X Max controls engine and trans) which is a standalone harness and a PCM that learns on its own. If you want to modify the harness and mess with tuning, you can rework the factory harness yourself and get a mail order tune or take it to a shop or do the tuning yourself with HPTuners. If you don't want to do any of that and don't mind spending more, I would go with the Holley Terminator system. That's what we're using for the next swap which will be a turbo setup.
This truck is radio and heater delete, so lots of room behind the dashboard to hide Ecu? I have a center console in my truck and hid the PCM in there, but lots of guys hide it in the dash.
I like the idea of Hydro boost and electric fans. There are a few threads out there on this and I have some info in my 68 thread. Hydroboost gives you strong brakes independent of the vacuum your engine is providing and saves room in the engine bay. You don't need a high dollar radiator to keep it cool. The fans are more important - get good fans from SPAL.
What motor mounts are best and location. I used the stock perches, stock replacement mounts, and LS adapter plates. Dirty Dingo plates are nice because they slide for adjustability. My plates are adjustable in that they have 3 different sets of holes.

Great info, thanks for taking the time to respond, and sharing your knowledge/ what you have learned from past projects.
I have read thru your current project thread , 69 C10- Black on Black.
It’s amazing the amount of progress you make, in a short amount of time!
Very jealous of the paint booth as well. I intend to read thru the other build threads in the next few days.
I bet you and your dad have a blast together, it’s awesome you share the same interests!
Thanks again.

[sfont66]

Had a few hours today to work on the truck. I converted the “H” frame I had made to lift the box off the frame, into a simple attachment for the engine crane to lift the cab. It worked very well. Just another version of what many others have done. I had the scrap/salvaged steel sitting in the shed, so no cost involved, otherwise I think it would be quicker and easier to build it out of wood.
One step closer to sectioning the frame. Hopefully later tomorrow I can pull the engine & transmission.

[sfont66]

I had to steal some time away from the truck project to install a new dishwasher and clothes washer and dryer, my wife waited 9 months for the appliances to come. We kept being told they were back ordered due to Covid-19. Anyway it took just a little longer to install the dryer because it needed to be converted from natural gas to propane gas. All is well now with that, so back to the 72 C10.

Finally pulled the old Sbc and 4 speed transmission, then was able to get the cut measured out for the z cut, or step cut. I did it this way 8 years ago to my 68 GMC and it worked well , so I saw no reason to change. It’s been too long ago for me to remember who to give credit to for this style of frame shortening, but the info was found on this forum, so thanks to all who share their knowledge...
I have ordered a few parts (some are back ordered) with need to decide on , and order more this weekend.

[sfont66]

A few more

[sfont66]

It’s 20” shorter now, a lot of work to do in a short amount of time. I had really hoped to make it to the Street machine nationals if they have it this year. Not that I consider this truck show worthy, but I do like to go , set up the EZ up, get out the cooler, and grill, and walk the grounds, having a place to come back and rest, before going out again in another direction. Most of the time we go for at least 2 days, if the weather is good. Here’s hoping we can go this year! Now I need to make a list, and another parts order