My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[jlsanborn]

Might be too much. I found a pair online for $355 to my door.
Thanks again! That's some excellent information for me.

[FrankieD]

I could do $100 ea if you are intrested I could check shipping cost

[jlsanborn]

You betchya!
Delivery would be:
Mead, WA 99021

[FrankieD]

I will get them dismounted and get a price for shipping. I will need a few days. Do you have pay pal?

[jlsanborn]

FrankieD - just pm'd you

[jlsanborn]

It's been a while, but we are moving forward. Should see my refund from the tax man here in the next week and I'll be ordering up those wheels and tires I keep rambling on about. I'll also be getting the brake booster.
We're trying to get this thing ready for paint as soon as it warms up enough. We have the box completely stripped and its looking awesome! There were a few repairs made with a slide hammer and body filler, but it was done pretty well. Sombody had drilled 1/2" holes down both bed sides which were just mounded with filler. We've got all the filler out, welded up all the holes and are now smoothing it back out. Man I'd love to have a power in-line sander, but my little compresser wouldn't make it, so it's sticky back paper on a block of wood. I've got the day off, the wife dosen't and I just lit a fire out there. I'll put some more pictures up tonight.

[jlsanborn]

May not look like it, but I've got probably 30 hours into cleaning the bed up! A sandblaster sure would be nice. There are a LOT of little corners inside there.

[67cheby]

nice work , it is looking great

[FrankieD]

Yep even the little stuff takes a long time much less taking down the whole bed

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

May not look like it, but I've got probably 30 hours into cleaning the bed up! A sandblaster sure would be nice. There are a LOT of little corners inside there.

nice work! I know from past experience it's a PAIN to strip without a sandblaster.

[jlsanborn]

Thanks for the comments! I'm really getting excited to get moving a little quicker here. I've joined another forum on auto body and am learning a lot.
I have to replace the drivers rocker panel and was wondering if anyone could advise me on the best source for replacement panels. There's quite a lot out there, but I've also heard about some pretty crappy stuff. Where should I go?
Just got the funds for my wheels and tires. Should have some left over for a brake booster and lines for my calipers. What's the favorite source here? I've got another iron in the fire that should net me funds to do the bed wood. I'm thinking polished stainless and red oak. I'll mill my own boards, just wondering on the finish. I've seen some super fancy gel-coat looking stuff, but I don't think that's what I want. Anyone use spar varnish? I want something durable, but not too much "bling" if you know what I mean.

[jlsanborn]

Hey, these things come off! Holy crap! Early on I noticed the spot welds around the wheel opening and jumped right to the conclusion that it was the wheel tub that I was looking at. This morning I crawled in there to start cleaning and spotted the screws! Taking them out sure made the rest of my work easier. Had I only realized that before I was detailing the inside of the bed! Oh well, everything is down to the OG primer or metal now and I've got one bedside blocked out.
Also started poking at the cab a little bit. I found enough Bondo in there that I was beginning to worry that someone had made a Chevy out of a Ford! No worries, it's solid and from what I can tell I'm still only looking at the driver's rocker panel for metal work.

[jlsanborn]

Not a bad day when UPS drops stuff like this off at the house!!!

[VA72C10]

Nice!!!

[jlsanborn]

Yup!!! 295/50s and 235/60s. I ordered series 62 8s and 10s too. Those are a few weeks out, then paint and we'll see how it all fits. I've currently got 2.5 drop spindles and one wrap cut off the stock springs. Gotta check that with these tires and figure out what to do in the back.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jlsanborn]

Man I'm getting excited! I had the "hub cap model" hold the crap up for a shot or two. He sucks at that, but you can still kinda get the picture. Wheels are on order and should be here in two or three weeks. I've got the bed / tailgate about 90% straight. Next on the adgenda will be to build a rapid deployable "paint tent" so I can get what I've got done in epoxy primer. I'm going to get some satin black urethane paint to do my wheels, inner fenders and chassis parts.
Big debate on color going on. This will be my first go at a "nice" paint job. I've got a crappy air compressor. It wouldn't stand up to air tools (like a friggin straight line sander!) but it'll do for spray. I've got a nice filter/water separator/regulator and I just bought a new gravity feed paint gun set. My thoughts are a single stage paint fromt the OEM paint pallete. Originally, it was Medium Blue interior and Ivory exterior. I think I'd really like that with grey carpet, black seat, black dash pad and visors and black column and wheel.

[VA72C10]

Love the invisible rims

[jlsanborn]

I shoulda painted his fingernails!

[jlsanborn]

I never got any hits on my post regarding the brake booster. Should I be starting new threads on specific topics? I'd like to keep this whole build in a "string". I've got the moolah to get my power brake booster/master/prop valve, but am not sure what exactly what I should get or from where. I'll be running a small block and probably a solid cam, so I don't want valve cover clearance issues. I like the look of the bracket delete thing, but if clearance won't be an issue or that won't help, it's not a big deal to me. Unless of course it's an easy thing to do. What about brake lines? How bad am I going to have to tweak the OEM rigid lines to fit up to a CPP setup? What about the hoses? I've done the conversion drop spindles and disk brakes. From what I understand, there's no OEM hose that's going to fit just right. I've seen the conversion hoses, but is that the best way to go? If I need to make new hard lines for it to be "nice", so be it.

[FrankieD]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

I never got any hits on my post regarding the brake booster. Should I be starting new threads on specific topics? I'd like to keep this whole build in a "string". I've got the moolah to get my power brake booster/master/prop valve, but am not sure what exactly what I should get or from where. I'll be running a small block and probably a solid cam, so I don't want valve cover clearance issues. I like the look of the bracket delete thing, but if clearance won't be an issue or that won't help, it's not a big deal to me. Unless of course it's an easy thing to do. What about brake lines? How bad am I going to have to tweak the OEM rigid lines to fit up to a CPP setup? What about the hoses? I've done the conversion drop spindles and disk brakes. From what I understand, there's no OEM hose that's going to fit just right. I've seen the conversion hoses, but is that the best way to go? If I need to make new hard lines for it to be "nice", so be it.

Back on post #27 I had mentioned to look for a 1/2 or 3/4 ton with a diesel for the hydro boost but I would think you would also have to get the PS pump and reservoir for the added pressure, but not positive on that but I would find a truck and take peddles and every thing related to it.

[jlsanborn]

Thanks for the reply frankieD! I have that hydro-boost setup on my K30 and love it! I've had my eyes peeled at the bone yard for that, but am not really sure about all the other nuts an bolts to make it work. I'd love to do PS at the same time, but.....what PS pump, what steering box, what prop valve, new hyd hoses and brake lines, etc... I'm also going to be running the ol' inline six and three on the tree for at least a year or so after I get the pretty stuff handled (gotta sell my current driver as soon as I can get the Chevy on the road), so I'd have to come up with a setup that'll work for both the six and the small block, or at least with minimal conversion. If I could get a clear picture on what it'd take, I'd for sure go that route as I have the time and patients right now to make that happen!

[FrankieD]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Thanks for the reply frankieD! I have that hydro-boost setup on my K30 and love it! I've had my eyes peeled at the bone yard for that, but am not really sure about all the other nuts an bolts to make it work. I'd love to do PS at the same time, but.....what PS pump, what steering box, what prop valve, new hyd hoses and brake lines, etc... I'm also going to be running the ol' inline six and three on the tree for at least a year or so after I get the pretty stuff handled (gotta sell my current driver as soon as I can get the Chevy on the road), so I'd have to come up with a setup that'll work for both the six and the small block, or at least with minimal conversion. If I could get a clear picture on what it'd take, I'd for sure go that route as I have the time and patients right now to make that happen!

Here is a Google search with a bunch of info. Good luck

Frank

http://www.google.com/search?q=how+d...rlz=1I7ADBS_en

[jlsanborn]

So it seems that PS pump brackets for my 292 are going to be a PITA! I really want to do the HB brakes and PS, but I've gotta run the 6 for a while. I think I'll do the fab work to the frame for the PS box, but run my manual steering and brakes until I do the small block swap. That is unless, somebody has a slick way to fab up pump mounting to the 292. I don't want to spend a bunch of dough on this motor.

[jlsanborn]

Long time, no post!
I've been a little bit busy on other stuff and I've been waiting and waiting for my wheels. I just got the rears yesterday and the fronts should be here today! I've wanted to get my ride height established before I tore the front clip apart.
I'll be building a paint "tent" this weekend and intend on getting what I have done in epoxy primer and getting the wheels painted. I bought some reduced gloss black for those as well as my inner fenders, core support, etc... The wheels came in some kind of primer and I'm almost thinking I should get them sand blasted so I can put my epoxy on them???
Once I get the rubber mounted, I'll be ordering springs and shocks and also finishing up my brakes. After it's sitting like I want it, I'll pluck the motor and get started on the clip and cab.

[jlsanborn]

Question??
I'm going to to a white top and would like to add the cab molding under the back window. Do the trucks with this from the factory have some sort of stud or nipple welded here, or do the mounting clips go into holes in the cab? What's the best way to convert a non-trim cab here?