78 2wd Blazer - LS Swap and more..

[68Timber]

The mirrors at the top of the image are the dumbos. LMC lists them in stainless, chrome, and black. I saw them somewhere recently in white. It may have been Brothers.

[phillipm]

Okay so would white have been stock?

[68Timber]

Yes. From the factory the dumbos were stainless or white and you'd only see white on base/fleet trucks. I don't think I've ever seen a Blazer with white mirrors but I think they'd go with the white steelies and dog dish caps. Just a thought.

[phillipm]

Oh okay yeah. Would need to see the white as there are a lot of shades of white. Would most likely need to paint them to match.

[phillipm]

Here are just a few shots I snagged over the weekend. My Dad got pretty much all of the nose put back together.



as well as another buddy and I got the wiring wrapped up. Should be ready to try and fire it up on Wednesday evening. I just need to open up HP Tuners and flash out the Vats as well as change the fueling strategy over from PWM to constant supply.

[Willowrun]

Originally Posted by phillipm

Oh okay yeah. Would need to see the white as there are a lot of shades of white. Would most likely need to paint them to match.

Here are the white factory dumbo mirrors on a K5. It's a bright white. IMO with the chrome bumpers and grill you should go with chrome or stainless mirrors. But then again, they could go well with a white top. As stated, very impressive and quick build.

[TooTall]

the retainer ring and gas tank ring that was welded in, where did you get those ?

[phillipm]

The retainer ring is stock Chevy. The weld ring is from my buddy Carl at Vaporworx. Here is his website. Man KNOWS HIS STUFF on fuel systems. If you don't ever want to worry about fuel supply again just call this man and spend a few extra $$.

https://www.vaporworx.com/

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by Willowrun

Here are the white factory dumbo mirrors on a K5. It's a bright white. IMO with the chrome bumpers and grill you should go with chrome or stainless mirrors. But then again, they could go well with a white top. As stated, very impressive and quick build.

Man I forgot about this truck...

[TooTall]

Originally Posted by phillipm

The retainer ring is stock Chevy. The weld ring is from my buddy Carl at Vaporworx. Here is his website. Man KNOWS HIS STUFF on fuel systems. If you don't ever want to worry about fuel supply again just call this man and spend a few extra $$.

https://www.vaporworx.com/

thanks !

[phillipm]

Sorry for the lack up updates. We drove the truck last thursday and it has really low oil pressure. My 6.0L has about 80k on it. research says I should've changed the oil pump and pick up o-ring. Where were my buddies on that tip!!! So, busy getting another car ready to take on the trip. May start in on this if I get the Chevelle running soon. But may have to wait till we get back from power tour. I'll keep you guys in the loop.

[phillipm]

I haven't updated this in a little while. We were on the 2016 HRPT and unfortunately the Blazer didn't make it. We just didn't feel that it would be worth the risk bringing it. At the moment the engine has questionably low oil pressure so rather than take it 4k miles as it's first outing we'd be responsible and finish it up and drive it around town first.

I was able to finish up the gauges yesterday. I know many were wondering what they'd actually look like. And just to circle back. We needed a digital speedo for our VSS signal, as well as our stock tach didn't work. Rather than buy replacements for the stock style we decided to upgrade. These new gauges also allow us to have a trip which is nice.

[68Timber]

Those look great. The volt, oil, fuel, and temp look original except for the needles on the bottom two. Who makes the cluster? Are the "small" gauges original or part of the new cluster?

[phillipm]

The cluster is stock GM. I basically sliced and diced it up and made new faces for the Speedo and Tach. Then I took the movements out of those aftermarket gauges and put them behind the new faces that I made. I could have used the Auto Meter 5" faces but I really just didn't want it to look like aftermarket gauges. I wanted it to look factory, or maybe a version of factory. These don't immediately jump out at you as an upgrade.

The fuel and temp gauges are Auto Meter movements put behind the stock guage faces (And these are really simple to do. The screws even line up with the stock holes for the faces so it's so easy a cave man could do it... You can see some pics on Page 2 I believe. I had to use a 33-240 ohm gauge to line up with my GM sending unit. Then the Coolant temp came about because I was having way too much trouble finding a sending unit that would work with the stock gauge, and also be able to install in to the LS engine. After way too much research I said "F" it and just ran an auto meter movement and sending unit. To get the needle back on I waited till the engine was 205 (read through the ECU) and then stuck the needle on straight up. I've got a 195 stat so it should hover around this temp most of the time in Phoenix.

[phillipm]

Well my Dad and I got the dash pad and cluster trim put in yesterday along with our Retrosound Model 2 radio. Radio wasn't too hard but we did have to grind a little here and sand a little there to get it all to fit correctly. Not a big deal but was hoping it would just "fit" for the price. Next up is 1 or two final wiring bits and then take it to get an alignment.

[OutlawDrifter]

just read through this thread, very nice work. i like the attention to detail and doing it right the first time, i have also learned the hard way and now take an approach much like you.

[phillipm]

Really appreciate that Outlaw, thank you!

Took the truck out for a drive last night around the block. We still haven't got it aligned and other stuff like that. Nor have we emission'd it yet. However, the woefully low oil pressure presented it's self even more. At 1 point I saw 9psi on the ECU which takes it's reading from the top of the engine. I was seeing 15psi at the bottom. So I think this project is on hold until we can pull the engine apart and see which bearings have decided to go on vacation and not come back. Really bummed but what are you going to do. Live and learn. I trusted the seller and saw the vehicle running but didn't put a gauge on it and check it. Won't do that again.

Either way, after doing the driving I wanted to do the Fast Learn on the transmission and the first step it asks you to apply the brakes. We'll I did and it never received that signal so I guess I need to look into my wiring on that signal and see whats up.

Also, after getting back and putting the truck on the lift I saw a mark on the drive shaft. It was just kissing the frame near the back. So, I quickly cut out the offending piece and put a small notch in it's place. Then I cleaned it up and painted it black after this.



Another thing that was bothering me is the seat belt kept locking. But what was weird is it would lock in a loose position. I would have to pull on it to get it to unlock. If anyone has experienced this and knows a fix, please let me know!

That's kind of it for the moment. I'll let you guys know what we find on the engine.

[OutlawDrifter]

in regards to the seat belt locking, i bet they are dry and gummed up. my need to get in there and clean out the mechanism.

is the lower end making any noise? generally if the bearings are that bad they "tell you". it still could be as simple as a pump or pickup tube o-ring. i'm a firm believer in changing out the pump and o-ring on all of my ls swaps, cheap insurance.

[phillipm]

Cool thanks for the heads up on the seat belt. We cleaned the webbing but not sure if we did much with the mech it's self.

Yes we've put a new oil pump and a new o ring in the 6.0l. Had a friend over yesterday and he pointed out the ticking at the front of the motor. Told me it's probably the first cam bearing making the noise. (He's been a GM line tech forever). He also told me the first main bearing has probably walked some. I'll be sure to take pics of what I find for you guys. I'm hoping to just put new bearings in and clean up the bores and put it back together. Thoughts on that?

[OutlawDrifter]

if it's not hammering, you can probably get away with just bearings. i bet the bores still have the crosshatch. unless they've got a good glaze, i wouldn't worry about it.

cut the oil filter when you take the engine apart and see what's inside, that will tell you a lot of the story.

[buffydores]

I really like the tasteful gauges. I'm enjoying your build a lot.

How is your cruise setup. I see the later multi-function switch. Do you have a picture of the vacuum actuated servo. I'm trying to hunt one down and retro it with the Ramjet motor.

[phillipm]

Thanks Buffy.

I'm using a Rostra cruise unit that ties into the pedal App. For your RamJet I would suggest you use the Rostra Global Cruise. Easy to install. Pretty reliable, and also way more accurate than the vacuum system. I've actually got the vacuum parts that I took off my blazer though if you're interested in those.

Phillip

[buffydores]

Originally Posted by phillipm

Thanks Buffy.

I'm using a Rostra cruise unit that ties into the pedal App. For your RamJet I would suggest you use the Rostra Global Cruise. Easy to install. Pretty reliable, and also way more accurate than the vacuum system. I've actually got the vacuum parts that I took off my blazer though if you're interested in those.

Phillip

Super cool. Thanks. I may hit you up on the servo. Let me study the Rostra stuff first.

[phillipm]

Well with the oil pressure as low as it is, we decided to get the 6.0 pulled out. The PO told me it had about 80k miles on it. Well, I think he must have forgot to carry the 1 a time or two. There isn't even bearing material left, it's just the backing material. What I didn't get pictures of was the rings and how caked they are. We couldn't even rotate the oil ring and the 1st and 2nd ring are so bad we slipped the piston right back into the hole with minimal work.

[tinydb84]

Ouch...