47-59 Parking brake question

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Sounds like a solid plan.
Still room for exhaust on that side?

I think so, thats part of what I have to test and why I might angle the brackets to the top of the frame and let the E-Stopp hang from the brackets rather than sit on them.

[TX3100Guy]

i turns out I do have an unexpected dilemma. The end of the threaded rod on the E-Stopp is metric threaded M6 - 1.0. i have searched high and low for a forked clevis that has metric thread of that size and come up empty. I've even searched for a small threaded Heim joint to bolt onto the tab on the brake mechanism. All searches have some up negative, any thoughts or alternatives wlll be appreciated.

[dsraven]

Just fab a clevis or retread one that works. A threaded adapter with metric on one end and standard o the other end is a possibility

[e015475]

I don't have one of those ebrake thingys - mine is just a 300 lb linear actuator connected with a DPDT switch in the cab.

The clevis is just two pieces of flat stock welded to a nut. It isn't real pretty, but it is hidden under the truck?

I mostly did this because I didn't want to wait for an order or pay shipping at McMaster -Car. But if you do, they list a clevis end in M6x1 for about $12 plus shipping

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/clevises/rod-ends-1~/

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by e015475

I don't have one of those ebrake thingys - mine is just a 300 lb linear actuator connected with a DPDT switch in the cab.

The clevis is just two pieces of flat stock welded to a nut. It isn't real pretty, but it is hidden under the truck?

I mostly did this because I didn't want to wait for an order or pay shipping at McMaster -Car. But if you do, they list a clevis end in M6x1 for about $12 plus shipping

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/clevises/rod-ends-1~/

Great timing, I was just getting ready to order some other things from McMaster and added the clevis to my order. Thank you.

[TX3100Guy]

i have roughed out a mounting method using the 1/4 inch shelf brackets. They sit inside the c-channel of the frame and are bolted. I will probably cut some 16 gauge steel to lay on top of the brackets, then bolt the E-Stopp to the steel plate. So far so good, and I'm fairly certain that this is out of the way from the exhaust and drive shaft. More work to continue.

[dsraven]

just heads up on the mounting system that you may have overlooked. the mounting of the haevy part is just to keep that part from flopping around etc. the working part of the cable connection is an important part and has nuts on the outer threaded part for a reason. the first part to fab and mount, before you bolt down the heavy part, is the mount for the cable connection outer part. this should be inline with the cable or rod that comes from the rear. if using the original crossbar, the lever where the rod used to connect to the front mechanism should be moved over to be inline with the new mechanism and made to the correct length to allow a proper amount of travel for the rear cables and also be within the travellimits of the estopp. after getting this figured out and the cable end mounted firmly then the estopp heavy part can be bolted down. this way it is the cable mount that will be taking the major strain, as designed I think, and the mounts for the heavy part will be for holding that part firmly on the frame.
make sense?
there is a mounting video on the speedway site that maybe explains it better. first the cable is mounted and adjusted and then the heavy part is mounted and adjusted to that. remember the cable comes in the fully extended position. I guess what I am saying is don't rely on the body of the estopp for taking the strain of the pull when the unit is called into action, it isn't designed that way and may fail. the cable outer part should be the part taking the strain and so should be attached to the heavy duty mounting bracket. behind that is the heavy part that required a mount heavy duty enough to hold the weight of that part but it doesn't actually take the strain of the brake application, that is the outer cable mount job.

[leegreen]

like this, could be part of the plate you are adding to the brackets

[dsraven]

yes, exactly, however my version would likely have some wings on it for better anti-bending under load. thats just me. get that mount installed, then bolt down the estopp unit, which has adjustement slots so the cable can have a straightline pull without a bend in the outer part.
thanks LG, a pic is worth a thousand words, lol.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

like this, could be part of the plate you are adding to the brackets
Attachment 2365071

Thanks for catching that. Last night I had the E-Stopp on my bench hooked up to a 12v transformer to see what the pull length was on the unit so I could judge any any adjustment room necessary. Then I saw that threaded rod and nut and scratched my head and said I think I need to do some research tomorrow. Then I saw your post first thing and it all made sense.

This is still a rough fabrication, more detail yet to some. I will likely cut a sheet of 16 gauge sheet metal to sit on the braces and then bolt them to the braces and the E-Stopp to the sheet metal and brackets to make it secure but with room to adjust as necessary. Then powder coat everything.

FYI, the cable pull is about two inches.

[TX3100Guy]

I messed around more today with my setup and I'm not thrilled with it. The dilemma is that the E-Stopp needs to be placed on an angle to the frame in order to line up with the tab on the brake mechanism and that makes it look odd to me. The photo in post # 58 above looks clean and I like it but don't see how that would work on this truck given the bed cross member right behind the cab and the brake mechanism that spans the width of the truck.

[leegreen]

Weld a new tab onto the brake cross member thing nearer the frame for the estopp to pull on.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Weld a new tab onto the brake cross member thing nearer the frame for the estopp to pull on.

I thought about that but wondered about its location. The current tab isn't exactly in the center of the rod that goes from side to side, but close to the loop in the center. I wondered if a tab that far off center would still be effective at pulling on both brake cables.

[leegreen]

while the factory location of that tab would tend to equalize any torsional loss twisting that bar, my guess as to why the factory put it in the center has more to do with getting around the master cylinder than needing it to be centered to reduce twist.

I don't have an intact original truck to crawl under for a look see but I think I'd be willing to move the tab to one side

[dsraven]

i'm with LG on this one. weld a new lever onto the crossbar where you need it. if the bar twists make a tougher bar.
you may want to make the lever longer so you can fine tune the amount of travel needed at the rear cables. i am thinking the estopp may have more travel than required so when the park brake is called for it may be applied more heavily than you would have with the old system.

[TX3100Guy]

Problem solved. I fashioned a tab out of some 1/4 plate I had laying around and then welded it to the factory brake rod. While the welds may not be up to pro standards, my buddy says that's what angle grinders are for. After welding and some cleanup, I gave it several taps with my 3 pound Tonya Harding persuasion hammer and it stayed firmly attached. Now I can mount the E-Stopp on the brackets parallel with the frame and only about 2-3 inches out. It will look worlds better. Thanks for the encouragement.

[leegreen]

I like hammers, I had to google that one

good fix!

[72Mountaineer]

ANybody use a junkyard electric parking brake?

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by 72Mountaineer

ANybody use a junkyard electric parking brake?

I see your user name, Morgantown in 72?

[TX3100Guy]

More fabricating today, but still not happy with how much adjustment room, I'll have to deal with the throw of the actuator and how taught it should pull on the brake mechanism.

I have plans this evening, but will get back on it tomorrow. When I'm happy, I'll clean off the bracket and the 16 gauge that the E-Stopp is bolted to, then powder coat all the brackets and metal.

[72Mountaineer]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

I see your user name, Morgantown in 72?

I was there. Were you?

[TX3100Guy]

I was a student resident from 1973-1979. i took the long route to get two degrees. We can blame year one on the 3.2 beer and members of the opposite sex.

[TX3100Guy]

Ok, I'm stumped on something related to the E-Stopp. I have it temporarily mounted and have wired it up to my 12 v transformer to see how far it pulls on the brake mechanism. i disconnected the clevis pin. The question is, how far does using the old foot operated parking brake move the tab on the bar that operates both brake cables. I won't want to setup the E-Stopp and have it over pulling.

If you installed an E-Stopp how did you arrive at the correct pulling distance.

[leegreen]

I'd assume the estopp is designed to stall out and switch off. So as long as your parking brakes are adjusted and the travel of the welded on tab is not greater that the estopp travel the estopp is going to pull to it's max strength every time you activate it.

I don't anticipate it can generate more pull that the original foot brake so I doubt it is capable of breaking anything.

Maximum rear brake for panic stop emergency braking could get a little scary when the rear locks up. But if you have ever tried to stop a moving vehicle with a foot activated ratcheting emergency brake it is pretty hard to modulate the braking, even without panic.

[TX3100Guy]

I found this on the E-Stopp website