Chevy 350 OE Roller or Hydraulic Roller

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Just tell everyone it's a 350, it would still look identical on the outside

totally could do that and then when I would beat them or whatever then I could choose whether to still keep it a secret or tell them that the motor is a little bit overhauled.

[mopar346]

Originally Posted by :lol: thanks for the curveball, I'm going to stick with the 350 though because it's what I bought with it in, and [B

I want to keep as original possible[/B], but if I ever feel like going big and bad I want to put a 454 in it.

You have made this statement a number of times, each time I think then why are we talking about modifying it in the first place. I'm sorry but numbers matching doesn't mean anything on a moddedd 77 truck. I built a healthy SB for my son's 4WD a little over a year ago it specced (not dynoed) at 460+ hp and 490 Torque. It pulled hard through the gears up about 5500 where I had him shiftting, this was in a 4500-5000 lb 4WD with 3.73s and 33s.

93 roller 4 bolt main 350 block 30 over
72 350 crank
72 rods (shot peened & beamed)
Speed pro forged
Tru-roller chain
70 fuelie heads tastefully ported/polished, screw ins, guide plates, 2.02 1.60 64CC
Comp roller 488/494 lift, I think 212/214 duration (I can look up the number if needed) with matching springs
Factory roller lifters & spiders
70 Z/28-Corvette factory intake
TBI adaptor plate
Polished 454 TBI
Chip
Hedman Elites
2.5 exhaust to flowmasters
1800-2000 stall

I was very pleased with this engine and would not hesitate to dupicate it in another truck or use the same with a different cam for a car or standard.

Take it for what it's worth.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by mopar346

You have made this statement a number of times, each time I think then why are we talking about modifying it in the first place. I'm sorry but numbers matching doesn't mean anything on a moddedd 77 truck. I built a healthy SB for my son's 4WD a little over a year ago it specced (not dynoed) at 460+ hp and 490 Torque. It pulled hard through the gears up about 5500 where I had him shiftting, this was in a 4500-5000 lb 4WD with 3.73s and 33s.

93 roller 4 bolt main 350 block 30 over
72 350 crank
72 rods (shot peened & beamed)
Speed pro forged
Tru-roller chain
70 fuelie heads tastefully ported/polished, screw ins, guide plates, 2.02 1.60 64CC
Comp roller 488/494 lift, I think 212/214 duration (I can look up the number if needed) with matching springs
Factory roller lifters & spiders
70 Z/28-Corvette factory intake
TBI adaptor plate
Polished 454 TBI
Chip
Hedman Elites
2.5 exhaust to flowmasters
1800-2000 stall

I was very pleased with this engine and would not hesitate to dupicate it in another truck or use the same with a different cam for a car or standard.

Take it for what it's worth.

I appreciate that and the comment about me wanting to keep it as original as possible is saying, I don't want to go bore or stroke it, I want to keep it as a Chevy 350, now don't get me wrong I would love to have you build that motor for me but for what I want I honestly don't need 460+HP, because it's more for looks than anything and honestly it will probably very rarely see the track, I fully understand where you are coming from but as for me I really don't need to have a truck that's pushing 460+HP at the rear wheels. If that makes sense?

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by mopar346

You have made this statement a number of times, each time I think then why are we talking about modifying it in the first place. I'm sorry but numbers matching doesn't mean anything on a moddedd 77 truck. I built a healthy SB for my son's 4WD a little over a year ago it specced (not dynoed) at 460+ hp and 490 Torque. It pulled hard through the gears up about 5500 where I had him shiftting, this was in a 4500-5000 lb 4WD with 3.73s and 33s.

93 roller 4 bolt main 350 block 30 over
72 350 crank
72 rods (shot peened & beamed)
Speed pro forged
Tru-roller chain
70 fuelie heads tastefully ported/polished, screw ins, guide plates, 2.02 1.60 64CC
Comp roller 488/494 lift, I think 212/214 duration (I can look up the number if needed) with matching springs
Factory roller lifters & spiders
70 Z/28-Corvette factory intake
TBI adaptor plate
Polished 454 TBI
Chip
Hedman Elites
2.5 exhaust to flowmasters
1800-2000 stall

I was very pleased with this engine and would not hesitate to dupicate it in another truck or use the same with a different cam for a car or standard.

Take it for what it's worth.

I forgot to mention I love the motor it looks sooooooo sweet!

[mopar346]

A few key things, I said specced so my guess is 420ish, earlier you mentioned 400 at the wheels which means you are gonna need AT LEAST 50 to 60 extra at the crank. Point is it was very affordable, less than $2500 for long block and intake (good/lucky deal on used head & intake).

I would find a later block and run a roller - cheap HP, I would run forged cause they are relatively cheap and I don't have to worry about them.

By the way, I wasn't offering to build it for ya, I was just saying that I really liked the combo and duplicate it without a second thought.

Solid bottom end and make HP with the heads.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by mopar346

A few key things, I said specced so my guess is 420ish, earlier you mentioned 400 at the wheels which means you are gonna need AT LEAST 50 to 60 extra at the crank. Point is it was very affordable, less than $2500 for long block and intake (good/lucky deal on used head & intake).

I would find a later block and run a roller - cheap HP, I would run forged cause they are relatively cheap and I don't have to worry about them.

By the way, I wasn't offering to build it for ya, I was just saying that I really liked the combo and duplicate it without a second thought.

Solid bottom end and make HP with the heads.

Very very true, sorry about it.

Yeah I understand where your coming from, I'm not trying to offend you sorry if I have, but I'm just set on using my block I have right now there's nothing wrong with it and it runs wonderful.

My bad on that, I was like man he wants to build that for me I was like no way I could afford it which now it makes sense.

Yeah I understand where your coming from on your build.

[mopar346]

I'm not offended, you gotta go a long way to do that. I was just making sure you understood I wasn't soliciting anything. I get it if you are stuck on using your block if you are just gonna change heads and all in the truck which depending on the pistons may make 400+ kinda hard, but if you are building a complete engine in many cases it is most better to leave your together driving and build an entirely different block. If you are changing or willing to change blocks the late model 350 offers the advantages we havfe discussed and roller offers cheap HP due to no friction and how agressives grinds. You're probably gonna change your plans a dozen times before the build so just make sure you are committed to the plan before you lay any cash out.

Good luck!

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by mopar346

I'm not offended, you gotta go a long way to do that. I was just making sure you understood I wasn't soliciting anything. I get it if you are stuck on using your block if you are just gonna change heads and all in the truck which depending on the pistons may make 400+ kinda hard, but if you are building a complete engine in many cases it is most better to leave your together driving and build an entirely different block. If you are changing or willing to change blocks the late model 350 offers the advantages we havfe discussed and roller offers cheap HP due to no friction and how agressives grinds. You're probably gonna change your plans a dozen times before the build so just make sure you are committed to the plan before you lay any cash out.

Good luck!

Alright that's good to know. Yeah I'm making sure that I have set in stone what I want for sure, which like I have stated there's a few websites I have saved that are using the 350 block, and reaching 400HP at the rear wheels one of them actually reached 422HP, and there doing all the mods that I'm going to do, and as I have stated before if I don't reach 400HP that's fine it wont break my heart, I just want some extra power there instead of the stock rated HP.

[mrhino]

Im sorry for this Its a little long winded but after reading all the posts I just couldn't help myself. My apologies to whoever takes offence.

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

I am definitely taking everyones input because everyone knows what there talking about where as I'm a rookie to doing big engine mods, and I want to know what benefits the truck in the longhaul.

Im sorry to disagree, everyone does not know what there talking about. its ok to listen to what they are saying but dont believe everyones advise is accurate. Including mine.

Originally Posted by mopar346

I would concentrate on a powerband of 1500-4500 maybe 5200 or so but not much over 5500.

You are getting a lot of info thrown at you from a lot or different view points, read and absorb but in the end you may be best to find a local builder and write the check. At the very least take your component selection from a known/proven combination. Mixing and matching can lead to BIG disaappointment if you don't really know what your doing. I would say build a proven, solid bottom end and make HP out of the heads.

I agree with this statement

Originally Posted by Firebirdjones

Solid advice here. I love the high rpm screamers, but I get more fun out of my big block chevelle than I do the 69 Z. Keep in mind since you are building a truck (think big boxy and heavy) I'd concentrate on making torque throughout the rpm range rather than a peaky engine just like Mrhino describes here. A peaky engine will require more rear gear to extract all of it, and that generally means less highway friendly too.

With a 350 I'd keep the cylinder head intake runner smallish (180-200cc) along with a dual plane air gap manifold, run a streetable compression ratio matched to a camshaft that provides what you are looking for. A well thought out combination like this will make 400 crank HP and still be fun on the street. The better the cylinder head the easier it will be to make that power and you'll be able to keep the camshaft much more tame.

I pretty much agree with everything firebirdjones has said.

Originally Posted by mopar346

I get it if you are stuck on using your block if you are just gonna change heads and all in the truck which depending on the pistons may make 400+ kinda hard, but if you are building a complete engine in many cases it is most better to leave your together driving and build an entirely different block. If you are changing or willing to change blocks the late model 350 offers the advantages we havfe discussed and roller offers cheap HP due to no friction and how agressives grinds. You're probably gonna change your plans a dozen times before the build so just make sure you are committed to the plan before you lay any cash out.

agree, except for low friction not no friction but i knew what you ment.

I also dont agree with just paying someone to build your engine. there is no way your gonna learn sh!t buy paying someone else to build your engine.

with that said.
You keep saing 400hp I want hoursepower to burn off my tires or run down the track and brag up to your buddies, and thats fine, its cool, we all do it or have done it. but the bottom line is Torque is what does all those things. horsepower is dirived from torque. Torque is what gets that car or in this case truck moving, torque is what puts those tires up in smoke. a 500, 400 , 300 hp engine wont do **** if you cant get it moving. You should concentrate on more torque if you want a good powerfull engine.

Its just a observation I could be wrong but It sounds to me like your reading or watching to many Superchevy, chevyperformance hotrod, etc. magazines. or the Horsepower tv show on Saturdays. Here is the truth about those mags and shows. They are after the numbers. they give you stats and charts of peak hp and torque numbers. that dont mean sqwat. They do mean something but of little importance to how it would pertain to you and your ride. dont get me wrong they are excellent forms of education, providing you understand the workings of a engine and how each component interacts with other components . "theory" with out theory it makes those articals and shows even us on here telling you what to do very confusing. Im not saying this to be disrespectful or mean but that is the truth. Im not saying dont watch or read these articals im just saying , dont be all about the numbers. use them for what they are: learning TOOLS, learn from them and take little pieces here and there and soon you will be educating your buddies or even giving your own opinion on here.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by mrhino

Im sorry for this Its a little long winded but after reading all the posts I just couldn't help myself. My apologies to whoever takes offence.



Im sorry to disagree, everyone does not know what there talking about. its ok to listen to what they are saying but dont believe everyones advise is accurate. Including mine.



I agree with this statement



I pretty much agree with everything firebirdjones has said.



agree, except for low friction not no friction but i knew what you ment.

I also dont agree with just paying someone to build your engine. there is no way your gonna learn sh!t buy paying someone else to build your engine.

with that said.
You keep saing 400hp I want hoursepower to burn off my tires or run down the track and brag up to your buddies, and thats fine, its cool, we all do it or have done it. but the bottom line is Torque is what does all those things. horsepower is dirived from torque. Torque is what gets that car or in this case truck moving, torque is what puts those tires up in smoke. a 500, 400 , 300 hp engine wont do **** if you cant get it moving. You should concentrate on more torque if you want a good powerfull engine.

Its just a observation I could be wrong but It sounds to me like your reading or watching to many Superchevy, chevyperformance hotrod, etc. magazines. or the Horsepower tv show on Saturdays. Here is the truth about those mags and shows. They are after the numbers. they give you stats and charts of peak hp and torque numbers. that dont mean sqwat. They do mean something but of little importance to how it would pertain to you and your ride. dont get me wrong they are excellent forms of education, providing you understand the workings of a engine and how each component interacts with other components . "theory" with out theory it makes those articals and shows even us on here telling you what to do very confusing. Im not saying this to be disrespectful or mean but that is the truth. Im not saying dont watch or read these articals im just saying , dont be all about the numbers. use them for what they are: learning TOOLS, learn from them and take little pieces here and there and soon you will be educating your buddies or even giving your own opinion on here.

No worries I didn't take offense to none of it simply because I'm the one asking for help, so my focus instead of trying to get 400HP out of my motor I should focus on what give me the most toque gains? Say for example I want 500lb/ft of torque the way I'm understanding you is I need to stop trying to get the 400HP and shoot for the torque, and everything else will follow with it?

[mrhino]

yes. for what you are wanting to do. that is the way I see it. although 500 lbs might be a tad on the high side. you should shoot for 350-375 that is very doable and will feel nice and stout. do you have your engine apart or are you driving with it?

[77ChevySharkBite]

No sir, right now its just a weekend truck I have a daily driver, a lot of the performance parts won't be installed until I get my daily driver off so for right now its going to be a lot of interior and fixing the body up to be painted at 1 time, and also going to be dropping the truck in the mean time as well.

Off subject Mrrhino, what kind of parts do you have? Or can I just give you a some parts I need, and you can find them?

[mrhino]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

No sir, right now its just a weekend truck I have a daily driver, a lot of the performance parts won't be installed until I get my daily driver off so for right now its going to be a lot of interior and fixing the body up to be painted at 1 time, and also going to be dropping the truck in the mean time as well.

Off subject Mrrhino, what kind of parts do you have? Or can I just give you a some parts I need, and you can find them?

I have sound deadener, auto-dimming rear view mirrors, back up cameras and mirrorrs. I also have seat heaters. bluetooth products, homelink systems. with more stuff coming all the time. sorry no engine parts as of yet.
Mopar is right. since your driving this truck you should try and find a later model small block. you prolly could find one for a couple hundred bucks or less. it would be worth it. like I said before 99% of all 87-up small blocks are machined for the roller cam. even though it might not have came with one. Right now I have a 88 305 small block that i cant give away it will prolly go the the scrap yard. you pick the right low end cam, a set of hypereutectic pistons are fairly cheap, set of vortec heads, good valves, the right springs, roller rockers, dual plane intake and a nice vacuum secondary Holly carb. and youll be knocking on the door of that number your after and would pull a stump plus be very reliable as well

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by mrhino

I have sound deadener, auto-dimming rear view mirrors, back up cameras and mirrorrs. I also have seat heaters. bluetooth products, homelink systems. with more stuff coming all the time. sorry no engine parts as of yet.
Mopar is right. since your driving this truck you should try and find a later model small block. you prolly could find one for a couple hundred bucks or less. it would be worth it. like I said before 99% of all 87-up small blocks are machined for the roller cam. even though it might not have came with one. Right now I have a 88 305 small block that i cant give away it will prolly go the the scrap yard. you pick the right low end cam, a set of hypereutectic pistons are fairly cheap, set of vortec heads, good valves, the right springs, roller rockers, dual plane intake and a nice vacuum secondary Holly carb. and youll be knocking on the door of that number your after and would pull a stump plus be very reliable as well

Okay cool, I'll keep checking with you on some of the items you sell. I mean right now its just a weekend driver but that's about to change because I'm going to start tearing the interior apart and also start doing body work so it's going to be more of a sitter that gets cranked everynow and then to make sure everything is still all good. I do greatly appreciate all the help you have provided me with. It just makes me more anixious to pay off my car and start spending money into the motor.